Hi All,
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions........
Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering with battons.
Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.
Many thanks

"bronkone7" wrote in message
...

Hi All,
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions........
Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.
Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.
Many thanks


If the wall is lightweight concrete block, you can get nylon nails from
Screwfix which you hammer straight through the plasterboard and into the
block. Sounds weird but it works really well. You do have to skim the board
though, since the heads sit a little proud of the surface.

Alistair

"bronkone7" wrote in message
...

Hi All,
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions........
Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.
Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.
Many thanks


--
bronkone7
Try:
http://www.british-gypsum.com/PDF/SBb10(Basic_TL_SI).pdf

Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.

Yes, assuming the wall is flat and you use the correct adhesive.

Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.

Yes. However, plasterboard disintegrates when wet. Therefore, you must use a
good quality adhesive and use a full fill technique so that the entire space
behind the tiles is solid adhesive, not just ridges with air gaps that water
can penetrate past, soaking the plasterboard.

I only use adhesives that claim suitability for commercial swimming pools.
B&Q Value adhesive+grout is not for me.

Christian.

In article ,
"Christian McArdle" writes:
Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.

Any reason you don't plaster it instead. It would only need scratch
(base) coat, not finish coat if you are going to tile it anyway.

Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.

Yes. However, plasterboard disintegrates when wet. Therefore, you must use a
good quality adhesive and use a full fill technique so that the entire space
behind the tiles is solid adhesive, not just ridges with air gaps that water
can penetrate past, soaking the plasterboard.

I only use adhesives that claim suitability for commercial swimming pools.

I'm not sure any of the tile adhesives are water-tight, even if they
are water-proof. They normally require you to use something like
aquapanel rather than plasterboard, or to tank the plasterboard with
a waterproofer.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"bronkone7" wrote
,

Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.

Yes, but it may be very difficult to get it flat & level. The advantage of
battons is the you can pack them to get them flat & level.

Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.

If it's level - see above!

Dave

David Lang wrote:
"bronkone7" wrote
,

Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without
bothering with battons.

Yes, but it may be very difficult to get it flat & level. The
advantage of battons is the you can pack them to get them flat &
level.

How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it
becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

[snip]

Dave

"ben" wrote in message

How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it
becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not uncommon.
If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third sheet becomes
worse.

Dave

David Lang wrote:
"ben" wrote in message

How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till
it becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not
uncommon. If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third
sheet becomes worse.

Dave

You've lost me, Bulges? what type of bulges wall bellying in out. what?
or do you mean bricks protruding out farther than other bricks.

If you generously apply a good spot of plaster mix on the board this should
overide any obtrusions on the wall. You don't paste the stuff on you know
you form it like an antill shape then press the board against the wall put a
spirit level on it diagonally length ways and tap it in place till it's
level.

In article , "David
Lang" says...

"ben" wrote in message

How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it
becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not uncommon.
If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third sheet becomes
worse.

Use big enough dollops that you *can* level it.

On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:02:04 GMT, "David Lang"
wrote:


"ben" wrote in message

How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it
becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not uncommon.
If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third sheet becomes
worse.

Dave

Good point! Some brick work can be inches off in places whcih could
never be filled with just a big dollop. You'd need some plaster
screeds every 600mm then the adhesive goes onto that. Still less work
than all that drilling and plugging etc.

madmax wrote:
On Tue, 26 Jul 2005 20:02:04 GMT, "David Lang"
wrote:


"ben" wrote in message


How so? to get it level you just tap it with a hammer in places till it
becomes level using a Spirit level.
Battons are adding to the work load.

So what if, on the second sheet you have a bulge in the wall - not uncommon.
If you level it one side, you can't level the other. Third sheet becomes
worse.

Dave


Good point! Some brick work can be inches off in places whcih could
never be filled with just a big dollop. You'd need some plaster
screeds every 600mm then the adhesive goes onto that. Still less work
than all that drilling and plugging etc.


I'd use a 2 x 1 batten the length of the area to be boarded to check for
high spots. You could then do the bit with the biggest bulge first and
line everything else up to that.

bronkone7 wrote:
Hi All,
As a new member i hope you don't mind me asking 2 questions........
Firstly,can I stick plasterboard straight to the wall without bothering
with battons.

Yes, in a previous house my builder used adhesive to put one layer of
plasterboard on each side of the 70mm plaster "squares" (carreaux de
platre), for soundproofing bedrooms and bathrooms (it was a new
construction). We didn't bother with the walls between livingroom and
kitchen for example as it wouldn't serve any purpose.

If you read French the following might be helpful:
http://www.commeunpro.com/infos/cons...eaux/index.php
http://www.livios.be/fr/_build/_guid/_plei/1130.asp

Secondly,can i tile onto this plasterboard.
Many thanks

Yes of course, just make sure the plasterboard itself is water resistant
if you use it in a bathroom. Between my bedroom and my en-suite for
example I had in succession:

Bedroom | Std plasterboard | water resistant 70mm plaster "square" |
water resistant plasterboard | tiles | Bathroom

And BTW, the usual plaster cracks which you get in new homes with wood
batten walls never occurred...