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Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers

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Piers Finlayson wrote:

Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers


I used plywood, albeit that's onto a brick wall.

If the CU is fully enclosed (as all modern ones are) there is no particular
requirement that I'm aware off.

Some ancient equipment was open backed hence the requirement.

--
Tim Watts
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"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Piers Finlayson wrote:

Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers


I used plywood, albeit that's onto a brick wall.

If the CU is fully enclosed (as all modern ones are) there is no
particular
requirement that I'm aware off.

Some ancient equipment was open backed hence the requirement.

--
Tim Watts


What is a CU?

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Geoff Pearson wrote:

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
Piers Finlayson wrote:

Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers


I used plywood, albeit that's onto a brick wall.

If the CU is fully enclosed (as all modern ones are) there is no
particular
requirement that I'm aware off.

Some ancient equipment was open backed hence the requirement.

--
Tim Watts


What is a CU?


Consumer unit.

The electrical thingy covered in switches
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Tim Watts

What is a CU?

Consumer Unit?


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In message , Tim Watts
writes
Piers Finlayson wrote:

Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers


I used plywood, albeit that's onto a brick wall.

If the CU is fully enclosed (as all modern ones are) there is no particular
requirement that I'm aware off.

Some ancient equipment was open backed hence the requirement.


Yup.

I used a bit of 18mm MDF , as I had a bit lying about.
--
Chris French

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On 2011-08-04 20:08:21 +0100, Tim Watts said:

Piers Finlayson wrote:

Should I be mounting a CU on a particular type of board (e.g.
fireproof)? If so, are there any suggestions as to where to source
(online)?

Thanks,
Piers


I used plywood, albeit that's onto a brick wall.

If the CU is fully enclosed (as all modern ones are) there is no particular
requirement that I'm aware off.

Some ancient equipment was open backed hence the requirement.


OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going then.

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On Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:34:34 +0100, Piers Finlayson wrote:

OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going
then.


Check with your DNO if they have any spec regarding size/material,
they can be right fussy bar keepers. Also bear in mind that your
DNO's responsibilty stops at the output of the cutout and the earth
terminal.

The tails from the cutout to meters and meters themselves are your
suppliers (ie the company you pay for power) responsibilty. At least
it is in Electricity North Wests (old NORWEB) patch.

Found this out earlier in the week when asking about a meter move.
Thought it would be simple for them not to bother moving one of the
meters but no they aren't allowed to do that they have to shift
everything and then the supplier brings someone else in to do the
meter disconnection.

Then of course actually getting some one to come out look and advise
about what is permissible/practical is next to impossible. They do
all their quotes from plans, only sending someone out "when they
really have to". Of course this means that when the engineer comes to
do the move he finds what the quote says and what the work actually
entails are different and goes away...

--
Cheers
Dave.



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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:34:34 +0100, Piers Finlayson wrote:

OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going
then.


Check with your DNO if they have any spec regarding size/material,
they can be right fussy bar keepers. Also bear in mind that your
DNO's responsibilty stops at the output of the cutout and the earth
terminal.

The tails from the cutout to meters and meters themselves are your
suppliers (ie the company you pay for power) responsibilty. At least
it is in Electricity North Wests (old NORWEB) patch.


It was a question about the CU, not about the cutout or meter:-)

Tim Watts correctly answered the OPs question yesterday.

--
Adam


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On 2011-08-05 21:39:03 +0100, ARWadsworth said:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:34:34 +0100, Piers Finlayson wrote:

OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going
then.


Check with your DNO if they have any spec regarding size/material,
they can be right fussy bar keepers. Also bear in mind that your
DNO's responsibilty stops at the output of the cutout and the earth
terminal.

The tails from the cutout to meters and meters themselves are your
suppliers (ie the company you pay for power) responsibilty. At least
it is in Electricity North Wests (old NORWEB) patch.


It was a question about the CU, not about the cutout or meter:-)

Tim Watts correctly answered the OPs question yesterday.


And DNO was in last Friday anyway replacing the meter (presumably
contracted by supplier to do the job). Didn't comment on any of my
existing installation :-). Now I just need to find a dongle to read
the flashing 1Wh flash and feed it into a computer so I can track my
power usage.



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Piers Finlayson wrote:

And DNO was in last Friday anyway replacing the meter [...] Now I
just need to find a dongle to read the flashing 1Wh flash and feed it
into a computer so I can track my power usage.


I now have smart meters fitted for gas & leccy, anyone have any
experience of reading them over Wireless M-Bus? I found what appears to
be a suitable reciever, £13 in module format but £50 in USB dongle
format, not sure what software is out there ...

http://uk.farnell.com/amber-wireless/amb8425-m/module-radio-868mhz/dp/1749516

http://uk.farnell.com/amber-wireless/amb8465-m/adapter-usb-wireless-m-bus-w-ant/dp/1749517
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Piers Finlayson wrote:
On 2011-08-05 21:39:03 +0100, ARWadsworth said:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:34:34 +0100, Piers Finlayson wrote:

OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going
then.

Check with your DNO if they have any spec regarding size/material,
they can be right fussy bar keepers. Also bear in mind that your
DNO's responsibilty stops at the output of the cutout and the earth
terminal.

The tails from the cutout to meters and meters themselves are your
suppliers (ie the company you pay for power) responsibilty. At least
it is in Electricity North Wests (old NORWEB) patch.


It was a question about the CU, not about the cutout or meter:-)

Tim Watts correctly answered the OPs question yesterday.


And DNO was in last Friday anyway replacing the meter (presumably
contracted by supplier to do the job). Didn't comment on any of my
existing installation :-). Now I just need to find a dongle to read
the flashing 1Wh flash and feed it into a computer so I can track my
power usage.


From a post a few years ago

http://offog.org/code/electricity.html

http://www.calc-electric.com/cehome.asp


--
Cheers
Adam


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In article ,
Piers Finlayson writes:
On 2011-08-05 21:39:03 +0100, ARWadsworth said:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 5 Aug 2011 12:34:34 +0100, Piers Finlayson wrote:

OK, ta. I'll choose something that'll fit in with where it's going
then.

Check with your DNO if they have any spec regarding size/material,
they can be right fussy bar keepers. Also bear in mind that your
DNO's responsibilty stops at the output of the cutout and the earth
terminal.

The tails from the cutout to meters and meters themselves are your
suppliers (ie the company you pay for power) responsibilty. At least
it is in Electricity North Wests (old NORWEB) patch.


It was a question about the CU, not about the cutout or meter:-)

Tim Watts correctly answered the OPs question yesterday.


And DNO was in last Friday anyway replacing the meter (presumably
contracted by supplier to do the job). Didn't comment on any of my
existing installation :-). Now I just need to find a dongle to read
the flashing 1Wh flash and feed it into a computer so I can track my
power usage.


I'm looking to do this too, having just had a meter change.
I'll probably simply read the visible LED. The other one is a
bi-directional IR data stream, but it's much more complicated
to interface to, and commercial interfaces are very expensive.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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