one bit of kit I don't yet have

what would the team recommend

brand price etc

Would be for occasional not daily use

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a sliding saw over a non sliding
one?

already have a saw table and a hand held circular saw and a decent band saw

Regards

Sorry if it's obvious, but make sure it will cut the size of timber you're
likely to want it to. The one I've ended up with will slide cut a 12" wide
shelf. And can chop quite large stuff. The smaller ones can't. But this
may not matter to you since you have other alternatives. My only
alternative is a hand held circular saw.

--
*Seen it all, done it all, can't remember most of it*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 22/07/11 21:48, TMC wrote:

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

Not much use bench mounted unless you have at least 2 metres clear each
side (ie a very long bench).
Better to get one of these:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster...nd-prod376268/
or do what I've done - drill mounting holes in your workmate to bolt it
down and use one or two of these to support the workpiece:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/roller-bal...rt-stand/18859

On 22/07/2011 21:48, TMC wrote:
one bit of kit I don't yet have

what would the team recommend

brand price etc

YGWYPF. I started with an Axminster, then a Wickes, now a GMC. Would
have saved money overall if I'd bought a Makita in the first place.


Would be for occasional not daily use

Until you have one :-)

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

Sliding saws with smaller blades give a good compromise for site use.

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a sliding saw over a non
sliding one?

A non sliding saw has a limited width of cut. The only way to increase
it is to use a bigger diameter blade.

A sliding saw has a bigger width of cut at a given blade size.

A sliding saw + a bigger blade gives a much bigger width of cut.

already have a saw table and a hand held circular saw and a decent band saw

Regards


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 22/07/2011 21:48, TMC wrote:

one bit of kit I don't yet have
what would the team recommend

brand price etc

What do you want to spend?

Makita do a very nice 7" one at a reasonable price:

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/...&product=27050

or the cabinet makers "ideal" one for somewhat mo

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/...product=120858

ebay occasionally turns up reasonable deals on second hand ones.


Would be for occasional not daily use

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

One of the proper stands with the telescopic side supports allow them to
make a very nice easy job of cutting studwork etc.

This is similar to the Makita steel one they don't seem to do any mo

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/...oduct=1307 96

(Makro sometimes do a JCB branded Ali one at a reasonable price)

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a sliding saw over a non
sliding one?

Advantages: wider cut capacity for a given saw blade diameter, and the
ability to make trench (i.e. flat bottomed non through cuts).

Disadvantages: more expensive, heavier, less accuracy and more slop
unless you buy a decent one. (many cheap ones start out fairly "tight"
but get sloppy with use.

already have a saw table and a hand held circular saw and a decent band saw

Some general background he

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/mitresaw.htm

Some reviews:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...tre_saw_review

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

So mostly studs and joists?

If it's lots of long timbers, rather than 1 metre or less bits of
joinery, - then buy the best stand you can - they make an enormous
difference to your productiveness.

This kind of thing:

http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/stands/cat830946

On 22/07/2011 21:48, TMC wrote:
one bit of kit I don't yet have

what would the team recommend

brand price etc

Would be for occasional not daily use

site environment until we get the workshop finished then work bench mounted

What are the advantages/disadvantages of a sliding saw over a non
sliding one?

already have a saw table and a hand held circular saw and a decent band saw

Regards

I bought one of these - albeit at a lower price - for occasional use,
and was agreeably surprised at the build quality.

http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Produc...EMITRE+SAW.htm

It makes it so easy to cut lengths of wood to length with an accurate
square end. You can also adjust the length by cutting slivers, of less
than a blade thickness if necessary, off the end - something which no
other type of saw will do.

I have screwed mine to a piece of worktop with a batten on the
underside, so that it can be clamped in a workmate, like this:
http://www.mills37.plus.com/Saw_use.JPG

For supporting long pieces of wood, I have some folding steps with a
tubular frame, the top of which is the same height as the cutting deck
when the saw is mounted in the Workmate.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Jul 22, 9:48*pm, "TMC" wrote:
one bit of kit I don't yet have

what would the team recommend

Not buying one unless you need it.

brand price etc

Aldi. It's the only sliding one for under £50. Anything else similar
might not be Makita price, but it's probably £150+.


Chop saws like this have one main use: constructional carpentry in
2x4s. They're no use for joinery (real bench joinery, with joint
cutting). They're very quick to use though, and they are great for
butt and halved lap joints held together by screws. I don't do much
"woodwork" on mine, but I do a lot of "building" work with it.

A non-slider will chop 2x4s (and larger) either square or at angles.
A slider will do two things in addition - firstly it will chop wider
boards, such as skirtings. It's not "better", it just does things a
non-slider can't even try to. Secondly it should have a depth stop, so
that you can also cut halved joints with it - a purely hinged chopper
can't generate the straight line needed.

A top-slider is nicer to use than a bottom slider, but tends to be
bulkier to store and these machines are also the more expensive ones.
A single bar slider works fine, but probably wears loose more quiickly
than an expensive two bar.

You can use them on a commercial stand or on the floor. Bench mounting
isn't much use, as they need space either side. I knew a workshop in
Bristol that had three set up on a long bench, each permenantly set to
a different angle - a very quick way to work if you're building
garden furniture all day and you have the space. Mine is on an
American-designed DIY portable saw bench (plans on the web somewhere)
- a rolling plywood cabinet with a gap in the middle. Tool boards for
chop saws (and bobbin sanders, thicknessers, routers etc.) can be
placed into this gap. If you have space and a couple of sheets of
plywood, it's a handy thing.

These are horribly dangerous machines. They have the worst safety
record for serious hand injuries or amputations in construction. Be
careful using it, don't let your second hand on the bed of the machine
when it's powered up - either hold a long piece of timber at a
distance away (if your hand isn't touching anything closer than a hand
span, it can't reach the blade) or else short pieces need a mechanical
clamp or push stick.

These are horribly dangerous machines. They have the worst safety
record for serious hand injuries or amputations in construction. Be
careful using it, don't let your second hand on the bed of the machine
when it's powered up - either hold a long piece of timber at a
distance away (if your hand isn't touching anything closer than a hand
span, it can't reach the blade) or else short pieces need a mechanical
clamp or push stick.

That's an excessively alarmist POV. I've read by far the greatest
culprit in tool-related serious injuries (rather than fall related
injuries) in UK construction is nailers such as Paslodes.

In terms of woodworking machinery, table saws are worse (push job and
hand simultaneously into the blade, working without a crown guard, or
kickbacks), or radial arm saws. or worst of all spindle moulders
(although they are uncommon outside of professional woodworking
environments, and modern safety features have reduced accidents and
severity of injuries).

With a mitre saw, you pretty much have to deliberately push the blade
forward into your hand (or most likely your extended left thumb). I've
seen mitre saws with the blade guard wedged back or removed - much the
same a removing crown guards - sooner or later you will brush a
rotating blade with flesh. But used as they are meant to be used, on a
secure stand, with securely supported work, with blade guard working
properly - the risk is small, controlled and predictable.

In article
,
wrote:
These are horribly dangerous machines. They have the worst safety
record for serious hand injuries or amputations in construction. Be
careful using it, don't let your second hand on the bed of the machine
when it's powered up - either hold a long piece of timber at a
distance away (if your hand isn't touching anything closer than a hand
span, it can't reach the blade) or else short pieces need a mechanical
clamp or push stick.

That's an excessively alarmist POV. I've read by far the greatest
culprit in tool-related serious injuries (rather than fall related
injuries) in UK construction is nailers such as Paslodes.

I've had my sliding saw for several years. Treat it with respect, but
can't see it being anything like as dangerous as say an angle grinder. Or,
as you say, a more normal bench saw.

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Jul 23, 11:46*am, " wrote:
These are horribly dangerous machines. They have the worst safety
record for serious hand injuries or amputations in construction.

That's an excessively alarmist POV.

Talk to the HSE - it's their hitlist. Some tool has to be the worst,
this is the one.

I've read by far the greatest
culprit in tool-related serious injuries (rather than fall related
injuries) in UK construction is nailers such as Paslodes.

Yes, but they don't create such serious injuries or amputations.

The problem is that classic left thumb amputation. If you're in the
habit of clamping with your left hand near the blade, the risk is that
one time you're too close.

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Jul 23, 11:46 am, " wrote:
These are horribly dangerous machines. They have the worst safety
record for serious hand injuries or amputations in construction.

That's an excessively alarmist POV.

Talk to the HSE - it's their hitlist. Some tool has to be the worst,
this is the one.

I've read by far the greatest
culprit in tool-related serious injuries (rather than fall related
injuries) in UK construction is nailers such as Paslodes.

Yes, but they don't create such serious injuries or amputations.

The problem is that classic left thumb amputation. If you're in the
habit of clamping with your left hand near the blade, the risk is that
one time you're too close.

I agree that it is very easy to go wrong with such a saw.

I've spent sometime conditioning myself with a reflex like habit of looking
at my left hand placement before engaging power and as you say, being a
handwidth's away from the blade...

The other thing that can happen is "snatch" if you (foolishly, due to
inexperience) try to cut a piece too small and it gets thrown. That's bloody
scary, especially as by the time it registers, the piece is in the process
of bouncing off the wall the other side of the room.

But for some reason, large angle grinders actually impart more fear in me.

--
Tim Watts

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
The problem is that classic left thumb amputation. If you're in the
habit of clamping with your left hand near the blade, the risk is that
one time you're too close.

I agree that it is very easy to go wrong with such a saw.

I've spent sometime conditioning myself with a reflex like habit of
looking at my left hand placement before engaging power and as you say,
being a handwidth's away from the blade...

The other thing that can happen is "snatch" if you (foolishly, due to
inexperience) try to cut a piece too small and it gets thrown. That's
bloody scary, especially as by the time it registers, the piece is in
the process of bouncing off the wall the other side of the room.

Mine has a pretty decent clamp. Pieces too short for that to work I'd cut
by hand. Small off cuts can get thrown around occasionally. But they're
not going to do you much damage.

Also, again on mine, it's pretty obvious where the blade goes by the slot
in the bed. Keep your hand clear of that and you should be ok. Common
sense really.

But for some reason, large angle grinders actually impart more fear in
me.

Absolutely.

--
*A backward poet writes inverse.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:

But for some reason, large angle grinders actually impart more fear in
me.

Absolutely.

Much as I am equally wary in using my 9" AG, I suppose they could be
seen as safer in the sense that you just cannot use one without a damn
good grasp of the thing in both hands.

Conversely, how many times has one tried using a 4"/4.5" AG with only
one hand (something I almost never do, but the temptation is there)?

--
Scott

Where are we going and why am I in this handbasket?

On 23/07/2011 18:56, Scott M wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:

But for some reason, large angle grinders actually impart more fear in
me.

Absolutely.

Much as I am equally wary in using my 9" AG, I suppose they could be
seen as safer in the sense that you just cannot use one without a damn
good grasp of the thing in both hands.

Conversely, how many times has one tried using a 4"/4.5" AG with only
one hand (something I almost never do, but the temptation is there)?

I did that. Once. Still have the scar.

Don't even think about it.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Jul 23, 6:56*pm, Scott M wrote:

Conversely, how many times has one tried using a 4"/4.5" AG with only
one hand (something I almost never do, but the temptation is there)?

_Most_ of my angle grinder use is one-handed. Depends on the type of
disk though.