Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

no fuel in when I got it

new fuel 50:1 mix

air filter clean

tried with choke off 1/2 and full

checked that the on off switch enables disables the spark

had top off of carb diaphram fine

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now


any thoughts or tips

Once I have sorted this the Dolmar 309 is next

"TMC" wrote:
[snip]

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now


any thoughts or tips

Follow Dave Plowman's advice. If that doesn't work, try injecting a squirt
of butane gas into the inlet. You can do this using an unlit blowlamp or a
butane lighter or a butane lighter refill can. The butane/air mix is easier
to ignite than petrol and can kick over the motor enough to cause it to run
happily afterwards.

On Jun 3, 7:15*pm, Steve Firth wrote:
"TMC" wrote:

[snip]

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now

any thoughts or tips

Follow Dave Plowman's advice. If that doesn't work, try injecting a squirt
of butane gas into the inlet. You can do this using an unlit blowlamp or a
butane lighter or a butane lighter refill can. The butane/air mix is easier
to ignite than petrol and can kick over the motor enough to cause it to run
happily afterwards.

There are also easy starting sprays that often work.


NT

On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 11:22:35 -0700 (PDT), Tabby
wrote:


There are also easy starting sprays that often work.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Sta...ngine_Starter/


--

In article ,
The Other Mike wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 11:22:35 -0700 (PDT), Tabby
wrote:


There are also easy starting sprays that often work.

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Sta...ngine_Starter/

Every workshop should have some ...

Nick
--
Serendipity: http://www.leverton.org/blosxom (last update 29th March 2010)
"The Internet, a sort of ersatz counterfeit of real life"
-- Janet Street-Porter, BBC2, 19th March 1996

On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, "TMC" wrote:

Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

no fuel in when I got it

new fuel 50:1 mix

air filter clean

tried with choke off 1/2 and full

checked that the on off switch enables disables the spark

had top off of carb diaphram fine

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now


any thoughts or tips

Once I have sorted this the Dolmar 309 is next

Any timing adjustment?

On Jun 3, 7:31*pm, Ericp wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, "TMC" wrote:
Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

no fuel in when I got it

new fuel 50:1 mix

air filter clean

tried with choke off 1/2 and full

checked that the on off switch enables disables the spark

had top off of carb diaphram fine

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now

any thoughts or tips

Once I have sorted this the Dolmar 309 is next

Any timing adjustment?

I've never actually looked at the book for either of my chainsaws but
the characteristic that I use is full choke until it fires - neither
ever run on, so close the choke and usually they both will start first
pull after that. And thinking about it the petrol strimmer is the
same.

I have had occasions when something won't start and have given up only
for it to oblige almost first pull the next day.

I like the butane idea - hadn't heard that one before. One thing that
I have heard is that 2 stroke mixture deteriorates in storage though
personally that's not been a problem I've experienced.

Rob

robgraham wrote:

One thing that I have heard is that 2 stroke mixture deteriorates in
storage though personally that's not been a problem I've experienced.

Seems to be a favourite lie of those who maintain 2-T engines
"proffessionally". I made the mistake of getting an outboard engine
"professionally" service. It cost a fortune and the mechanic wibbled on
about "clear jelly" blocking the carburettor. I reckon this was a lie
because the engine was running fine before the service. I've since done
all the (minimal) servicing myself and I've never had a problem with it
or with the fuel deteriorating despite is being stored for six months of
the year. The chain saw is used for two heavy sessions, spring and
autumn. Other than that it sits in the barn and isn't subject to any
particular regime between uses. Starts first time every time.

One of the bruscutters OTOH is a complete ******* to start.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
robgraham wrote:

One thing that I have heard is that 2 stroke mixture deteriorates in
storage though personally that's not been a problem I've experienced.

Seems to be a favourite lie of those who maintain 2-T engines
"proffessionally". I made the mistake of getting an outboard engine
"professionally" service. It cost a fortune and the mechanic wibbled on
about "clear jelly" blocking the carburettor. I reckon this was a lie
because the engine was running fine before the service. I've since done
all the (minimal) servicing myself and I've never had a problem with it
or with the fuel deteriorating despite is being stored for six months of


Agree fully, petrol used to deteriorate as volatiles evaporated, but
formulations prevent this now.

Rick Hughes wrote:

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
robgraham wrote:

One thing that I have heard is that 2 stroke mixture deteriorates in
storage though personally that's not been a problem I've experienced.

Seems to be a favourite lie of those who maintain 2-T engines
"proffessionally". I made the mistake of getting an outboard engine
"professionally" service. It cost a fortune and the mechanic wibbled on
about "clear jelly" blocking the carburettor. I reckon this was a lie
because the engine was running fine before the service. I've since done
all the (minimal) servicing myself and I've never had a problem with it
or with the fuel deteriorating despite is being stored for six months of


Agree fully, petrol used to deteriorate as volatiles evaporated, but
formulations prevent this now.

I had a problem with 2 year old fuel in a tank.

On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking

As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray (probably ether) or
butane, it may work but goes with a bit more a bang than petrol and
may damage rings/pistons etc.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking

As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray (probably ether) or
butane, it may work but goes with a bit more a bang than petrol and
may damage rings/pistons etc.

What he says.

If you have fresh fuel and a spark it will fire. Then if the carb is
anything like set up it will run until you can get the settings right.

If it wont fire its either grossly over rich or grossly over weak. Or
there is no spark. Or the fuel is very stale.

If it fires a bit , runs, then dies is usually a sign of a weak mixture.
reprime and choke hard on, BUT the moment it does fire get rid of (most
of) the choke..

If it wont fire at all chances are its flooded. No choke and keep
pulling till enough air has swept the cylinder clean.

Years of starting model aircraft engines in my youth does give me a bit
of and advantage its true. Nothing is worse than a crap British FROG 80
60s diesel engine..not even the finger ripping AMCO 35...

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
[snip]

not even the finger ripping AMCO 35...

My right index finger is largely scar tissue thanks to one of those.

On 3 Jun 2011 22:12:25 GMT, Steve Firth wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
[snip]

not even the finger ripping AMCO 35...

My right index finger is largely scar tissue thanks to one of those.


Low compression due to a worn cylinder/ rings?

An exhaust blocked with soot.


I'm not familiar with chainsaws but my Raliegh Wisp moped used to fail
to run because of the above.

I seem to recall that timing was some kind of mechanical switch hit by
a lump on the outer ring of the magneto.

A squirt of Redex might help the finger, not sure about the engine
though.

HN

"H. Neary" wrote in message
...
On 3 Jun 2011 22:12:25 GMT, Steve Firth wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
[snip]

not even the finger ripping AMCO 35...

My right index finger is largely scar tissue thanks to one of those.


Low compression due to a worn cylinder/ rings?

An exhaust blocked with soot.


I'm not familiar with chainsaws but my Raliegh Wisp moped used to fail
to run because of the above.

I seem to recall that timing was some kind of mechanical switch hit by
a lump on the outer ring of the magneto.

A squirt of Redex might help the finger, not sure about the engine
though.

HN


Thanks for the replies

There are full starting instructions on the case but all in swedish

Got it to start by starting on full throttle

it ran then for a minute or so till the fuel pipe split at the carb

cut and reconnected fuel pipe and ran it for a while but think I need to
replace the pipe

Seems to run on full throttle but dies on tick over so I guess a bit of
adjustment needed as well

Regards

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes

Nothing is worse than a crap British FROG 80 60s diesel engine..not
even the finger ripping AMCO 35...

So, you've never had a Lambretta that wouldn't start?

:-)
--
Graeme, spent too much of my life bump starting Lambrettas

"News" wrote in message
news
In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes

Nothing is worse than a crap British FROG 80 60s diesel engine..not even
the finger ripping AMCO 35...

So, you've never had a Lambretta that wouldn't start?

:-)
--
Graeme, spent too much of my life bump starting Lambrettas

Don't fancy bump starting a chainsaw though.
How would you do it?
Run at a tree and snag the chain?

Also, Lambrettas were at least easier if you started at the top of a hill ot
had someone to push you.
Can't see either helping with a chainsaw ;-)

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Jun 3, 8:53*pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:
after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking

As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray..
Indeed so..

Starting spray is not going to cure the problem.. even if it does gets
a wizz out of it..

Things to note are the oil mixture,, old timers might not be aware of
the advances in oil technology..
But the new low carbon mixtures of today are about fifty to one as
opposed to twenty five to one with your ol
Castrol..

Ok I spect most of you know that,, I have a Johnsered strimmer and a
great big old Johnsered chain saw..
Oh wow,, Ive had some good fun playing with that beastie down the
shore,,,

And a very hard learning curve on how to sharpen chains an look after
this second hand machine that had been abused
and neglected..

I got a right sore shoulder and ended up near enough in a state of
collapse trying to start the big ghet..

One good trick was warming the plug with the blowlamp.. But it was
only a short term solve..

Thing is to decide if your machine is sound,, and if second hand
assume the numpties have been playing with it,,
or neglecting it..Both most likely..
Make sure the filter is clean or even chuck it out temporarily,, it
will make a slight difference when you put it back..
If the machine is sound,, first check your mixture.. Chuck out the old
and get new,, I measure mine with a vetrinary syringe,,
but partner do pre-measured doses in sachets,,,per five litre..

There will most likely be two adjustables screws on the carb,, one is
the tickover mixture and the other is full blast rip roaring,
mixture..

Gotta sort out which is which first,, also find the butterfly tickover
speed screw,, Increase the tickover slightly and turn the others
down..
Find which is tickover mixture screw for certain.. If you have
difficulty turn them all down and slowly bring them up again..

I find my machines run nicely,, an its all about learning how to tune
the carb,, if the machine is good,, Too rich a tickover chokes and
floods the the engine,,
better it is slighly weak,,,start to learn about hunting,, learn to
listen to it..

Its all trial and error really but you got to understand that litlle
carbby first and and experiment..

And listen to it,, when you do get it kickin...

I start on full choke,, till i get the first kick and then go to half
choke,, at which point it usually starts..

And then I very quickly go to normal mixture and let it warm up a
little while if it is running nicely..
Before i open the throttle..

They most definately are tempramental little beasties,, but they do
respond to intelligent persuasion..
and add some considerable satisfaction to your strimming/ chainsawing
duties when they are running sweat cos you
tickled their fancy,, jus right...



.................................................. .................................................. ..............

On 04/06/2011 23:36, Rupert Bear wrote:
On Jun 3, 8:53 pm, "Dave
wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:
after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking
As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray..
Indeed so..

Starting spray is not going to cure the problem.. even if it does gets
a wizz out of it..

Things to note are the oil mixture,, old timers might not be aware of
the advances in oil technology..
But the new low carbon mixtures of today are about fifty to one as
opposed to twenty five to one with your ol
Castrol..

Ok I spect most of you know that,, I have a Johnsered strimmer and a
great big old Johnsered chain saw..
Oh wow,, Ive had some good fun playing with that beastie down the
shore,,,

And a very hard learning curve on how to sharpen chains an look after
this second hand machine that had been abused
and neglected..

I got a right sore shoulder and ended up near enough in a state of
collapse trying to start the big ghet..

One good trick was warming the plug with the blowlamp.. But it was
only a short term solve..

Thing is to decide if your machine is sound,, and if second hand
assume the numpties have been playing with it,,
or neglecting it..Both most likely..
Make sure the filter is clean or even chuck it out temporarily,, it
will make a slight difference when you put it back..
If the machine is sound,, first check your mixture.. Chuck out the old
and get new,, I measure mine with a vetrinary syringe,,
but partner do pre-measured doses in sachets,,,per five litre..

There will most likely be two adjustables screws on the carb,, one is
the tickover mixture and the other is full blast rip roaring,
mixture..

Gotta sort out which is which first,, also find the butterfly tickover
speed screw,, Increase the tickover slightly and turn the others
down..
Find which is tickover mixture screw for certain.. If you have
difficulty turn them all down and slowly bring them up again..

I find my machines run nicely,, an its all about learning how to tune
the carb,, if the machine is good,, Too rich a tickover chokes and
floods the the engine,,
better it is slighly weak,,,start to learn about hunting,, learn to
listen to it..

Its all trial and error really but you got to understand that litlle
carbby first and and experiment..

And listen to it,, when you do get it kickin...

I start on full choke,, till i get the first kick and then go to half
choke,, at which point it usually starts..

And then I very quickly go to normal mixture and let it warm up a
little while if it is running nicely..
Before i open the throttle..

They most definately are tempramental little beasties,, but they do
respond to intelligent persuasion..
and add some considerable satisfaction to your strimming/ chainsawing
duties when they are running sweat cos you
tickled their fancy,, jus right...



.................................................. .................................................. ............

Always replace the plug if it is flooding. it aint worth trying to dry
it out. 2 strokes can kill plugs.

"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
...
On Jun 3, 8:53 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:
after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking

As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray..
Indeed so..

Starting spray is not going to cure the problem.. even if it does gets
a wizz out of it..

Things to note are the oil mixture,, old timers might not be aware of
the advances in oil technology..
But the new low carbon mixtures of today are about fifty to one as
opposed to twenty five to one with your ol
Castrol..


I have two, two stroke machines. For one the handbook says 50/1 the other
25/1 both are the same age?

Mike

MuddyMike wrote:
"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
...
On Jun 3, 8:53 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:
after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking
As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray..
Indeed so..

Starting spray is not going to cure the problem.. even if it does gets
a wizz out of it..

Things to note are the oil mixture,, old timers might not be aware of
the advances in oil technology..
But the new low carbon mixtures of today are about fifty to one as
opposed to twenty five to one with your ol
Castrol..


I have two, two stroke machines. For one the handbook says 50/1 the other
25/1 both are the same age?

Mine says 50:1 for fully synth oil 25:1 for common or garden 2-stroke oil.

Mike

On Jun 5, 1:05*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
MuddyMike wrote:
"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
....
On Jun 3, 8:53 pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Fri, 3 Jun 2011 16:24:59 +0100, TMC wrote:
after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts
though that could be wishful thinking
As others have said two strokes can be tempremental until you get to
know your particular engine. I go for prime, full choke, full
throttle, pull until it gives the slighest hint of firing, half
choke, pull until it tries to fire/run again keeping the throttle
open. Once it does runa bit try closing the throttle but it'll
probably die. If you can get a few tens of seconds running it'll then
start to get warm enough to run sans choke and throttle.

I'd be a bit wary of using a starting spray..
Indeed so..

Starting spray is not going to cure the problem.. even if it does gets
a wizz out of it..

Things to note are the oil mixture,, old timers might not be aware of
the advances in oil technology..
But the new low carbon mixtures of today are about fifty to one as
opposed to twenty five to one with your ol
Castrol..

I have two, two stroke machines. For one the handbook says 50/1 the other
25/1 both are the same age?

Mine says 50:1 for fully synth oil 25:1 for common or garden 2-stroke oil..



Oh Well,,
a bit of careless posting on my part..
I always get my oil at a certain machine factor where they sell
the low carbon 50/1 mixture .. (as I think of it)
I thought the whole point was in not gassing yourself in clouds of
fumes while you work..
I must have taken it for granted that all small handheld two strokes
were useing 50/1 now..

It might well be a fairy tail about petrol going off,, certainly I
have
never come across it either.. Though i do think it is a good policy to
chuck out the old and replace with new when you are having
starting difficulties.. As muck in the fuel and carb might be one of
your problems...
Or..
If the machine has been on site,,
they often don't have time to look after them
properly,, or maybe a rough ol
woodman had it before you,, or the tank
just got rusty on the inside with sitting unused..

If you have had the machine from new then you
will know the score..

I will note more carefully what 25 to one mixes are available next
time...
Is it used in the filling stations for motorcycles,, ??

.............................................

TMC wrote:

Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

Try a brand new spark plug, and make sure it has the right gap.

Do not over-choke or overflood - my two-stroke motorcycle has a
'starting jet' fed by a drilling in the carburettor. ANY opening of
the throttle during kick-starting draws in even more fuel and floods
the engine.

You need to sneak up on the correct balance of choke and throttle,
until you understand its starting characteristics.

A new plug is essential.

HTH

TF

Terry Fields wrote:

You need to sneak up on the correct balance of choke and throttle,
until you understand its starting characteristics.

On a chainsaw one doesn't usually get much choice. The choke is usually
either open or closed. Depending on the model this can either be a peg
that is pulled to close the choke or a lever that is pushed down. In
either case as soon as the throttle is touched the choke flips open.

Normal starting procedure is:

1. Push the bulb on the fuel line about five times to fill the float
chamber on the carburettor. On modern chainsaws pumping more than five
times doesn't hurt because the fuel lines are recirculating.

2. Close the choke.

3. Firm grip on the handle with the left hand (sadly necessary even for
left handers, I've never seen a left hand chainsaw).

4. Grasp recoil starter handle, pull gently and take up the slack.

5. One long, smooth pull to start.

6. Allow to warm up for a few seconds before touching the throttle.

7. Ensure chain brake is off, both hans away from the blade, squeeze the
throttle trigger gently and bring the engine up to speed.

Once this is done, starting again should be easy and won't need the
choke.

You missed step 5.5, I have kindly added it for you.

"Steve Firth" wrote in message
.. .
Terry Fields wrote:

You need to sneak up on the correct balance of choke and throttle,
until you understand its starting characteristics.

On a chainsaw one doesn't usually get much choice. The choke is usually
either open or closed. Depending on the model this can either be a peg
that is pulled to close the choke or a lever that is pushed down. In
either case as soon as the throttle is touched the choke flips open.

Normal starting procedure is:

1. Push the bulb on the fuel line about five times to fill the float
chamber on the carburettor. On modern chainsaws pumping more than five
times doesn't hurt because the fuel lines are recirculating.

2. Close the choke.

3. Firm grip on the handle with the left hand (sadly necessary even for
left handers, I've never seen a left hand chainsaw).

4. Grasp recoil starter handle, pull gently and take up the slack.

5. One long, smooth pull to start.

5.5 Repeat above many many times with ever increasing use of your favorite 4
letter word :-)


6. Allow to warm up for a few seconds before touching the throttle.

7. Ensure chain brake is off, both hans away from the blade, squeeze the
throttle trigger gently and bring the engine up to speed.

Once this is done, starting again should be easy and won't need the
choke.

Bear **** in the woods.

On Jun 3, 4:24*pm, "TMC" wrote:
Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

no fuel in when I got it

new fuel 50:1 mix

air filter clean

tried with choke off 1/2 and full

checked that the on off switch enables disables the spark

had top off of carb diaphram fine

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now

any thoughts or tips

Once I have sorted this the Dolmar 309 is next

http://www.madontools.com/gasoline-p...9-cut-off-saw/

I had a Dolmar chain saw during the coal strike,,,
Thats going back a bit,,
I seem to rememder rich blue clouds of smoke too..
an getting shots of two stroke in the gas..

The guy in the link likes his machine though,,
even if he does describe it a second world war tank..

.................................................. ...................

On 3 June, 16:24, "TMC" wrote:
Old Partner s50 chain saw

It came from the garage of a deceased relative no reason to believe that it
was faulty was clean outside blade sharp and tensioned

there is a spark

the plug gets wet so there is fuel delivered

no fuel in when I got it

new fuel 50:1 mix

air filter clean

tried with choke off 1/2 and full

checked that the on off switch enables disables the spark

had top off of carb diaphram fine

after drying plug and leaving the cylinder to dry it almost starts though
that could be wishful thinking

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now

any thoughts or tips

Once I have sorted this the Dolmar 309 is next

After many years and many two stroke machines the following is my
tried and tested method of starting a two stroke.

1/ Pump fuel bulb 5-6 times.
2/ Leave choke OFF and pull the cord 4/5 times (You are NOT trying to
start it)
3/ Full choke. Pull till it coughs then switch to 1/2 choke and it
should start on the next one or two pulls.
4/ Blip the throttle repeatedly until engine is warm and the turn
choke off.

They all have their own personalities. A Stihl chain saw I had had no
priming bulb and was the original ******* to start. Carburettor
eventually failed and it couldn't be repaired. The Husqvarna
replacement starts easier but takes a lot of faffing about blipping
the throttle before it will run cleanly

A Flymo with a Honda 4 stroke engine is another pup.

A Bearcat shredder is a bitch to start as it lacks the weight of a
blade assemble as on a lawnmower. The blade on a lawnmower acts as a
flywheel when starting the engine

The easiest to start is the Kubota tiller. Starts every spring on the
first pull of the cord.

If only these two stroke engines had an easy way to inject a spray of
EasyStart into the carburettor ;-(

Paul Mc Cann

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember fred saying
something like:

If only these two stroke engines had an easy way to inject a spray of
EasyStart into the carburettor ;-(

I avoid that ****e like the plague, after seeing the damage it does.
Also, I found that the simple application of a hot air gun to the intake
works wonders on small petrol and diesel engines.

On Wed, 08 Jun 2011 14:33:34 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember fred saying
something like:

If only these two stroke engines had an easy way to inject a spray of
EasyStart into the carburettor ;-(

I avoid that ****e like the plague, after seeing the damage it does.
Also, I found that the simple application of a hot air gun to the intake
works wonders on small petrol and diesel engines.

Not easy when you need the generator to power the hot air gun...
--

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Other Mike
saying something like:

Not easy when you need the generator to power the hot air gun...

Aha. I first came across the hot air method forty years ago, which
employed a burning rag held to the intake - mind you, you couldn't
easily do that with modern plastic intakes. It certainly started a
****eOldDieselLandy with a degree of reliability, unlike the so-called
'glow plugs'.

On Thu, 09 Jun 2011 12:06:49 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Other Mike
saying something like:

Not easy when you need the generator to power the hot air gun...

Aha. I first came across the hot air method forty years ago, which
employed a burning rag held to the intake - mind you, you couldn't
easily do that with modern plastic intakes. It certainly started a
****eOldDieselLandy with a degree of reliability, unlike the so-called
'glow plugs'.

Something a bit different to hot air guns, burning rags or glow plugs


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nqi2hTrDUAc


--

"Huge" wrote in message
...
On 2011-06-03, TMC wrote:

getting tired of pulling the recoil starter now

FWIW, IME, 2 stroke engines have a mind of their own and can be absolute
*******s to start until you get them sussed out. My chainsaw's like that,
especially if you're stupid enough to follow the instructions, which
hopelessly flood it.

If you have replaced the spark plug, then it probably needs a new diaphragm
in the carb.

Mike