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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer.
They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If not/so, then could someone recommend an alarm for a bungalow, 3 doors, plus maybe 2 movement sensors in the conservatory and garage? Thanks Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. |
#2
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In article ,
A.Lee wrote: I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Most sensors are standard and can be replaced? Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If not/so, then could someone recommend an alarm for a bungalow, 3 doors, plus maybe 2 movement sensors in the conservatory and garage? If the wiring is good and suitable, surely it would be easy to replace like with like? By the nature of things. wireless is never going to be as reliable as wired - unless the wiring is so badly done it could suffer damage. -- *Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#3
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
On May 15, 9:45*am, (A.Lee) wrote:
I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If not/so, then could someone recommend an alarm for a bungalow, 3 doors, plus maybe 2 movement sensors in the conservatory and garage? Thanks Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. If the existing wiring is sound and the sensors, panel and sounder are in the right places its a simple swap out job. Lots of similar models on the market now so ask at your local electrical wholesale suppliers which are readily available rather than getting a hard to source model. |
#4
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
cynic wrote:
On May 15, 9:45 am, (A.Lee) wrote: I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If the existing wiring is sound and the sensors, panel and sounder are in the right places its a simple swap out job. Lots of similar models on the market now so ask at your local electrical wholesale suppliers which are readily available rather than getting a hard to source model. No, complete rewire, so best done while doing that. The old one is unreliable, with numerous wires going all over that cannot be traced, so I dont really want to work on it to try and fix it when new alarms are £100ish. Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. |
#5
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In article ,
A.Lee wrote: If the existing wiring is sound and the sensors, panel and sounder are in the right places its a simple swap out job. Lots of similar models on the market now so ask at your local electrical wholesale suppliers which are readily available rather than getting a hard to source model. No, complete rewire, so best done while doing that. The old one is unreliable, with numerous wires going all over that cannot be traced, so I dont really want to work on it to try and fix it when new alarms are £100ish. I'd point out the likely problems with wireless sensors (battery costs and the need for regular replacements) to the owner and let him decide. It's not difficult to trace wires with the correct equipment. Just needs a methodical approach. -- *Preserve wildlife - Go pickle a squirrel* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#6
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
On 15/05/2011 11:55, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I'd point out the likely problems with wireless sensors (battery costs and the need for regular replacements) to the owner and let him decide. I have a wireless system. The magnetic sensors take two CR2023 cells (around 10p each if you by in bulk from eBay) and PIR's take one PP3 (about 70p). In both types of sensor the batteries last over 2 years. They signal the control unit when the battery gets low so you get an alert message. The siren uses solar-charged lead/acid cells, so my running cost for 5 mag sensors + 5 PIRs is under £4 a year. That would rise if you wanted mag sensors on every window. It was an absolute doddle to install, and being wireless it's easy to protect the shed and a detached garage too. -- Reentrant |
#7
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
On Sun, 15 May 2011 11:34:46 +0100, A.Lee wrote:
If the existing wiring is sound and the sensors, panel and sounder are in the right places its a simple swap out job. No, complete rewire, so best done while doing that. I think the statement "existing wiring" was refering only to the alarm wiring not a what I think you are saying a complete mains rewire. The old one is unreliable, with numerous wires going all over that cannot be traced, so I dont really want to work on it to try and fix it when new alarms are £100ish. A tone cable tracer will make working out what cables go where a doddle. Hang the sender unit on the remote end and then see which one it is at the panel, label, move sender to another cable end repeat. A new panel and sensors would be far more reliable than wireless IMHO but then I don't trust wireless for "critical" applications without a hot spare backup... Not sure I trust something that could be jammed with a lowish power RF noise generator. -- Cheers Dave. |
#8
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
A.Lee wrote:
I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If not/so, then could someone recommend an alarm for a bungalow, 3 doors, plus maybe 2 movement sensors in the conservatory and garage? It's a bungalow, what is the loft access like? If it is reasonable then do away with the door sensors (unless they want the alarm to chime when a door is opened) and just use PIRs everywhere. -- Adam |
#9
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In article ,
ARWadsworth wrote: It's a bungalow, what is the loft access like? If it is reasonable then do away with the door sensors (unless they want the alarm to chime when a door is opened) and just use PIRs everywhere. Not usual to have one the final exit/entrance these days? -- *Two many clicks spoil the browse * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#11
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... 8 Both conservatory and garage can be liable to false triggering from PIR sensors, due to significant sources of heat causing movement of hot air - conservatory from the sun, and garage from a parked car with hot exhaust/engine. In these cases, a dual tech sensor (PIR and microwave) may be necessary, although in a conservatory, careful adjustment of microwave power will be needed to avoid sensitivity from outside the glass. The PIR half wont work through the glass so it shouldn't matter. You probably want a PIR somewhere in the body of the house, such as the main room or hallway, as door sensors are only perimeter detection and don't cover the volume of the house accessed via other routes such as broken window access. When I worked at Chubb many many years ago we virtually never fitted stuff to external doors, it was always on the internal doors and safes. The exception being the exit route and shop windows where we fitted the lead strips or break glass detectors. the theory was that you wanted to catch burglars in the property not scare them away. I think CCTV to catch them and a perimeter alarm to scare them is probably the best these days. |
#12
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In message , "dennis@home"
wrote the theory was that you wanted to catch burglars in the property not scare them away. Isn't the aim to deter burglars from a domestic property hence the prominently displayed external bell box. -- Alan news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
#13
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In article ,
Alan writes: In message , "dennis@home" wrote the theory was that you wanted to catch burglars in the property not scare them away. Isn't the aim to deter burglars from a domestic property hence the prominently displayed external bell box. Yes - that's the first aim. Burglar alarms don't 'catch' burglars. Police used to temporarily supply silent alert systems where they wanted to catch someone, but if you aren't the police, you don't want to encounter a burglar, you just want them to scarper empty handed as fast as possible. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#14
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... In article , Alan writes: In message , "dennis@home" wrote the theory was that you wanted to catch burglars in the property not scare them away. Isn't the aim to deter burglars from a domestic property hence the prominently displayed external bell box. Yes - that's the first aim. Burglar alarms don't 'catch' burglars. Police used to temporarily supply silent alert systems where they wanted to catch someone, but if you aren't the police, you don't want to encounter a burglar, you just want them to scarper empty handed as fast as possible. I think the real reason it was done the way it was was because if you alarm a locked door (i.e. the periphery) the alarm will never go off because the bugler will find a weaker spot. The sensors were always fitted to internal doors that were likely to be used by a burglar. Now PIRs are so cheap you don't need to protect the periphery at all. |
#16
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
In article ,
"dennis@home" writes: "Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message ... 8 Both conservatory and garage can be liable to false triggering from PIR sensors, due to significant sources of heat causing movement of hot air - conservatory from the sun, and garage from a parked car with hot exhaust/engine. In these cases, a dual tech sensor (PIR and microwave) may be necessary, although in a conservatory, careful adjustment of microwave power will be needed to avoid sensitivity from outside the glass. The PIR half wont work through the glass so it shouldn't matter. If someone walks past outside and is picked up by the microwave whilst there's heat movement inside, you get a false alarm. If someone walks past outside and is picked up by the microwave whilst there's no heat movement inside, and the dual-tech has anti-masking (most do), it will generate a masked alarm (which depending on model will generate either a movement or a tamper signal), and you also get a false alarm. On the other hand, if you set it up correctly, then it will work well. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#17
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article , (A.Lee) writes: I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? What are you protecting it against? A clueless stoned druggie looking for something to sell quick, Thanks for the replies. I went to my electrcal dealer yesterday, and got one of these: http://www.security.honeywell.com/uk.../ac/291426.htm l Recommended by them, the main box can be fitted anywhere, you then only have the keypad(s) on show, there'll be 2 of those, front and back doors. The sensors and bell boxes are all sold separately, as well as the window/door detectors, which I dont think will be bought. Sensors are fitted (generally) at the wall/ceiling join, so no problem with decoration to fit them afterwards, or move position. The house certainly needs an alarm, as the recently fitted front door can be forced open in 10 seconds (guess how I found that out!). Thanks Alan. -- To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'. |
#18
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Intruder alarms - wired or wireless?
On 15/05/2011 09:45, A.Lee wrote:
I've been asked to fit an alarm for a customer. They currently have a wired one that is 20 years old, so needs replacing as it is falling apart, especially the door sensors. Fitting a wireless one would be far easier for me, but are they reliable enough? If not/so, then could someone recommend an alarm for a bungalow, 3 doors, plus maybe 2 movement sensors in the conservatory and garage? Thanks Alan. I've fitted a couple of Yale wireless ones lately without any problems. However, with alarms - and PIR lights, I always get the customer to buy them. That way any warranty on the actual unit isn't with me. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
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