I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

MM

On May 6, 10:55*am, MM wrote:
I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

MM

How many joints are you doing? And what power tools do you have?

Best way to do the long saw cut on the lap-joint (or tenons) is a
bandsaw.

As it's a bit deep for some jigsaws (although a good quality one will
take it, without wandering) - another way is to put lots of kerf cuts
across the face of the material to be removed with a handheld circular
saw/skil-saw set to the appropriate depth - 1" in your case (and make
up a jig to position the CS for the "last" cut that is the shoulder of
the tenon/lap-joint).

Then just chisel away the material down to the depth of the kerfs.
Very quick - the waste virtually crumbles away - and easy to get a
level depth.

Alternatively make up a jig for a router - although this will need a
pretty hefty router to take off an inch depth over a 6" by 2" area,
time after time.

On 06/05/2011 10:55, MM wrote:
I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

MM

It's a lot of material for a router to remove - and you really want to
remove it as solid chunks rather than dust.

Cutting kerfs with a circular saw[1] - and chiselling out to the bottom
of the kerfs is the best bet - and you'll end up with a nice flat bottom
(oo er!)

[1] or better still, a table saw with its guard removed - but watch your
fingers!
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On May 6, 12:17*pm, " wrote:
Alternatively make up a jig for a router - although this will need a
pretty hefty router to take off an inch depth over a 6" by 2" area,
time after time.

Doesn't need to be a particularly hefty router - you just cut more
slowly with a smaller one.

I would hand saw down to 7/8", chisel out the bulk waste to 3/4", then
use the router to take a channel down to 1", and chisel out a bit
more, and finish off with the router overall.

Also, why do you need a jig? Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

On Fri, 06 May 2011 14:13:44 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

On 06/05/2011 10:55, MM wrote:
I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

MM

It's a lot of material for a router to remove - and you really want to
remove it as solid chunks rather than dust.

Cutting kerfs with a circular saw[1] - and chiselling out to the bottom
of the kerfs is the best bet - and you'll end up with a nice flat bottom
(oo er!)

[1] or better still, a table saw with its guard removed - but watch your
fingers!

Thanks one and all. I don't have a circular saw or a router. And in
answer to dom I only have a few to do, so I'll just keep ploughing
ahead! I did fish out my trusty honing guide (about 30 years old) to
give a new edge to the chisel, which made a considerable difference.

As you have said, I do end up with a nice flat bottom, but it takes a
little while to get there!

My only tool investment has been a new tenon saw to replace the old
one that I have had for 15 years. The new saw does indeed make a world
of difference. (Only £4.57 from Wilkinson - probably not the saw that
purists would buy, but I only need it occasionally.)

MM

On May 6, 10:55*am, MM wrote:

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

You can do them quickly with a sliding chop saw and a depth stop, or
else a table saw and a crosscut box. Don't just cut kerfs, saw the
intermediaries out too.

With a router it's usually quicker to cut the timber over-long and cut
the joints as housings, not end-laps, then afterwards to trim to
length. This supports the router from both sides while you're doing
it. A router base with only a small hole in it, and a clamped-on
square guide on the timber, makes it pretty quick.

Also, why do you need a jig? *Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

The jig means you can cut the shoulder-line on the lap (or tenon),
absolutely consistently - with no faffing marking out each time - you
just clamp on the jig, and run the router around.

It would be a very simple jig, two short ends of 3 * 2 each side of
the one being cut, and a cross piece screwed down in the right
position, to limit the base of the router moving past the shoulder
line - and a bit of board underneath to hold the lot in place - and a
stop for the piece being cut, when you slide it in.

Of course - I don't know if the OP is making 10 or 10,000 - and that's
what justifies the effort into buying tools and making jigs.

On 06/05/2011 10:55, MM wrote:
I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Is there a better way? E.g. isn't this kind of thing what routers can
do?

MM

Quick & dirty method is to laminate.

Take some 2 x 2 & some 2 x 1, glue & screw together leaving gaps for the
6 x 1.

As long as its decently prepared timber you will get a flush joint.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Fri, 6 May 2011 06:58:14 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


Also, why do you need a jig? *Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

The jig means you can cut the shoulder-line on the lap (or tenon),
absolutely consistently - with no faffing marking out each time - you
just clamp on the jig, and run the router around.

It would be a very simple jig, two short ends of 3 * 2 each side of
the one being cut, and a cross piece screwed down in the right
position, to limit the base of the router moving past the shoulder
line - and a bit of board underneath to hold the lot in place - and a
stop for the piece being cut, when you slide it in.

Of course - I don't know if the OP is making 10 or 10,000 - and that's
what justifies the effort into buying tools and making jigs.

I'm making four...

Don't laugh! This time it's only four, but I've been making lap joints
for years, so I reckon I must have made a hundred already. So I
thought, why not ask if there's an easier way.

Actually, I found a slightly easier way that cuts down on the amount
of rasping after the chiseling out. The mistake I was making was to be
TOO careful at the cut line at the bottom of the U channel. This is
all a bit difficult to explain without pictures, but imagine the
square "U"-channel in the wide side of the 3 x 2 to take the 6 x 1. I
mark out the vertical saw lines, i.e. the left and right sides of the
U, and I lightly chisel along the cut line, i.e. the bottom of the U.

Now, before, I was chiseling out bit by bit, getting closer and closer
to the cut line until there was practically no more wood left to
remove. I've since found out that it's much better to remove, say,
half the wood, say about 1/2", then simply whack the chisel along the
cut line and the remaining piece comes off very cleanly. Do the same
to the other side, and then the other three pieces*and I really needed
to use the rasp very little indeed and the 6 x 1 fitted just right. I
could just use the chisel flat, like a plane blade, to get a nice,
even surface right across the U channel and to remove stray whiskers
(of wood!)

*By the way, when I say "the other three pieces", what I mean is, when
I've cut the left and right saw kerfs of the U, I also saw three more
kerfs so that I'm not removing the entire 6 x 1 chunk in one go, but
four narrower chunks.

This afternoon has been much more satisfying!

MM

On May 6, 6:36*pm, MM wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2011 06:58:14 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:





Also, why do you need a jig? *Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

The jig means you can cut the shoulder-line on the lap (or tenon),
absolutely consistently - with no faffing marking out each time - you
just clamp on the jig, and run the router around.

It would be a very simple jig, two short ends of 3 * 2 each side of
the one being cut, and a cross piece screwed down in the right
position, to limit the base of the router moving past the shoulder
line - and a bit of board underneath to hold the lot in place - and a
stop for the piece being cut, when you slide it in.

Of course - I don't know if the OP is making 10 or 10,000 - and that's
what justifies the effort into buying tools and making jigs.

I'm making four...

Don't laugh! This time it's only four, but I've been making lap joints
for years, so I reckon I must have made a hundred already. So I
thought, why not ask if there's an easier way.

Actually, I found a slightly easier way that cuts down on the amount
of rasping after the chiseling out. The mistake I was making was to be
TOO careful at the cut line at the bottom of the U channel. This is
all a bit difficult to explain without pictures, but imagine the
square "U"-channel in the wide side of the 3 x 2 to take the 6 x 1. I
mark out the vertical saw lines, i.e. the left and right sides of the
U, and I lightly chisel along the cut line, i.e. the bottom of the U.

Now, before, I was chiseling out bit by bit, getting closer and closer
to the cut line until there was practically no more wood left to
remove. I've since found out that it's much better to remove, say,
half the wood, say about 1/2", then simply whack the chisel along the
cut line and the remaining piece comes off very cleanly. Do the same
to the other side, and then the other three pieces*and I really needed
to use the rasp very little indeed and the 6 x 1 fitted just right. I
could just use the chisel flat, like a plane blade, to get a nice,
even surface right across the U channel and to remove stray whiskers
(of wood!)

*By the way, when I say "the other three pieces", what I mean is, when
I've cut the left and right saw kerfs of the U, I also saw three more
kerfs so that I'm not removing the entire 6 x 1 chunk in one go, but
four narrower chunks.

This afternoon has been much more satisfying!

MM

Scroll down to the diagrams:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lap_joint

We're not quite talking about the same thing.

You're making a cross lap.

Thanks one and all. I don't have a circular saw or a router. And in
answer to dom I only have a few to do, so I'll just keep ploughing
ahead! I did fish out my trusty honing guide (about 30 years old) to
give a new edge to the chisel, which made a considerable difference.

As you have said, I do end up with a nice flat bottom, but it takes a
little while to get there!

My only tool investment has been a new tenon saw to replace the old
one that I have had for 15 years. The new saw does indeed make a world
of difference. (Only £4.57 from Wilkinson - probably not the saw that
purists would buy, but I only need it occasionally.)

MM

How do you manage without a circular saw? It runs a close second to the
angle grinder IME!

MM wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2011 06:58:14 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


Also, why do you need a jig? Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

The jig means you can cut the shoulder-line on the lap (or tenon),
absolutely consistently - with no faffing marking out each time - you
just clamp on the jig, and run the router around.

It would be a very simple jig, two short ends of 3 * 2 each side of
the one being cut, and a cross piece screwed down in the right
position, to limit the base of the router moving past the shoulder
line - and a bit of board underneath to hold the lot in place - and a
stop for the piece being cut, when you slide it in.

Of course - I don't know if the OP is making 10 or 10,000 - and
that's what justifies the effort into buying tools and making jigs.

I'm making four...

Don't laugh! This time it's only four, but I've been making lap joints
for years, so I reckon I must have made a hundred already. So I
thought, why not ask if there's an easier way.

Actually, I found a slightly easier way that cuts down on the amount
of rasping after the chiseling out. The mistake I was making was to be
TOO careful at the cut line at the bottom of the U channel. This is
all a bit difficult to explain without pictures, but imagine the
square "U"-channel in the wide side of the 3 x 2 to take the 6 x 1. I
mark out the vertical saw lines, i.e. the left and right sides of the
U, and I lightly chisel along the cut line, i.e. the bottom of the U.

Now, before, I was chiseling out bit by bit, getting closer and closer
to the cut line until there was practically no more wood left to
remove. I've since found out that it's much better to remove, say,
half the wood, say about 1/2", then simply whack the chisel along the
cut line and the remaining piece comes off very cleanly. Do the same
to the other side, and then the other three pieces*and I really needed
to use the rasp very little indeed and the 6 x 1 fitted just right. I
could just use the chisel flat, like a plane blade, to get a nice,
even surface right across the U channel and to remove stray whiskers
(of wood!)

Cut the two shoulders just inside the line, run a few more saw cuts between
the shoulders (all to the correct depth) then use the widest, sharp chisel
that you have (one that will obviously fit the 'hole' you're making) with
the bevel side down and just above the depth line [1] (better if that line
is marked using a gauge rather than pencil) and give the chisel a smart rap
with hammer or mallet. This should knock off about half the waste in one
go.

Do the same on the other side, and then tip the wood edge ways on the bench
(so that you are looking down the cut) and simply reverse the chisel so that
the flat is down and pare the rest of the waste out to the correct depth -
it really sounds more complicated here than it is to do.

Tip 1, if you're using a tenon saw, try changing that for a cross-cut or
panel saw - it will be easier and quicker.

Tip 2, make sure that your chisels are always sharp - using the correct
grinding and honing bevels.

Tip 3, omit the rasp, and use a proper paring chisel to finish off - needs a
little practice, but once you've mastered that, you'll never look back.

[1] This will have the effect of 'lifting' chunks of the waste up off the
bed without going below the finished depth line (works 95% of the time).


Cash

On Fri, 6 May 2011 22:27:37 +0100, "Cash"
wrote:

MM wrote:
On Fri, 6 May 2011 06:58:14 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


Also, why do you need a jig? Can't you just use the rest of the 3x2
to rest the router on?

The jig means you can cut the shoulder-line on the lap (or tenon),
absolutely consistently - with no faffing marking out each time - you
just clamp on the jig, and run the router around.

It would be a very simple jig, two short ends of 3 * 2 each side of
the one being cut, and a cross piece screwed down in the right
position, to limit the base of the router moving past the shoulder
line - and a bit of board underneath to hold the lot in place - and a
stop for the piece being cut, when you slide it in.

Of course - I don't know if the OP is making 10 or 10,000 - and
that's what justifies the effort into buying tools and making jigs.

I'm making four...

Don't laugh! This time it's only four, but I've been making lap joints
for years, so I reckon I must have made a hundred already. So I
thought, why not ask if there's an easier way.

Actually, I found a slightly easier way that cuts down on the amount
of rasping after the chiseling out. The mistake I was making was to be
TOO careful at the cut line at the bottom of the U channel. This is
all a bit difficult to explain without pictures, but imagine the
square "U"-channel in the wide side of the 3 x 2 to take the 6 x 1. I
mark out the vertical saw lines, i.e. the left and right sides of the
U, and I lightly chisel along the cut line, i.e. the bottom of the U.

Now, before, I was chiseling out bit by bit, getting closer and closer
to the cut line until there was practically no more wood left to
remove. I've since found out that it's much better to remove, say,
half the wood, say about 1/2", then simply whack the chisel along the
cut line and the remaining piece comes off very cleanly. Do the same
to the other side, and then the other three pieces*and I really needed
to use the rasp very little indeed and the 6 x 1 fitted just right. I
could just use the chisel flat, like a plane blade, to get a nice,
even surface right across the U channel and to remove stray whiskers
(of wood!)

Cut the two shoulders just inside the line, run a few more saw cuts between
the shoulders (all to the correct depth) then use the widest, sharp chisel
that you have (one that will obviously fit the 'hole' you're making) with
the bevel side down

See my comment (a) below.

and just above the depth line [1] (better if that line
is marked using a gauge rather than pencil) and give the chisel a smart rap
with hammer or mallet. This should knock off about half the waste in one
go.

Do the same on the other side, and then tip the wood edge ways on the bench
(so that you are looking down the cut) and simply reverse the chisel so that
the flat is down and pare the rest of the waste out to the correct depth -
it really sounds more complicated here than it is to do.

Tip 1, if you're using a tenon saw, try changing that for a cross-cut or
panel saw - it will be easier and quicker.

Tip 2, make sure that your chisels are always sharp - using the correct
grinding and honing bevels.

Tip 3, omit the rasp, and use a proper paring chisel to finish off - needs a
little practice, but once you've mastered that, you'll never look back.

[1] This will have the effect of 'lifting' chunks of the waste up off the
bed without going below the finished depth line (works 95% of the time).


Cash


That's pretty much how I learned to do it yesterday afternoon - except
I didn't use the chisel bevel side down (see above). Also, I don't use
a gauge (never could get on with the ruddy thing), but I chisel along
the pencil line slightly before starting to make the saw kerfs.

Yes, paring off of the wood to finish up has a very satisfying feel
about it! But the chisel has to be sharp, else it just digs in rather
than cutting off shavings.

I must say, I don't do enough DIY (simple furniture making) as it is a
very satisfying pastime and one can save a fortune, despite the price
of raw materials nowadays. Also, before making this single bed frame I
went around a few shops (including Focus!) and the internet to compare
prices and the bed I liked (a Santos from Birlea) was £109 locally and
about £30 cheaper (plus a hefty carriage charge) off the web. So far I
have spent around £32 on timber and corner bolts, and I had the bed
slats already. As I'm retired I have all the time in the world to make
something like this and it is rewarding in other ways, too. My blood
pressure has gone down a bit! That is, the extra exercise one gets by
shifting lengths of timber about, sawing, planing, drilling, hammering
etc is good for the body as well as the soul (and the wallet). Then
there is the benefit to the 65-year-old muscles, which normally don't
get used much when I just go for my walks or cycle rides. I'm as stiff
as a board in the morning, but a nice, hot bath soon loosens
everything up. Right now, I'm really looking forward to today when I
can assemble the bed, rub down the outer surface and apply clear
water-based lacquer (like the stuff Ikea used to sell in the large
white plastic pots).

Thing is, I don't have anything else I need to construct right now!

MM

On Fri, 6 May 2011 21:17:16 +0100, "newshound"
wrote:


Thanks one and all. I don't have a circular saw or a router. And in
answer to dom I only have a few to do, so I'll just keep ploughing
ahead! I did fish out my trusty honing guide (about 30 years old) to
give a new edge to the chisel, which made a considerable difference.

As you have said, I do end up with a nice flat bottom, but it takes a
little while to get there!

My only tool investment has been a new tenon saw to replace the old
one that I have had for 15 years. The new saw does indeed make a world
of difference. (Only £4.57 from Wilkinson - probably not the saw that
purists would buy, but I only need it occasionally.)

MM

How do you manage without a circular saw? It runs a close second to the
angle grinder IME!

I've always been afraid of the things. I have a Siemens jigsaw, two
power drills, two jack planes (ancient Stanley metal ones), a Record
rabbeting plane, a Makita power plane, a couple of Bosch sanders,
loads of G cramps, chisels, various other hand saws, and a load more
"stuff". But just the thought of using a circular saw fills me with
dread. The tool that comes closest is the Makita. I bought it about 30
years ago and lent it to my brother for a job, who chipped the blades,
so I got replacement blades. But using it always gets me to prepare
EVERYthing first, so that I only have to use it for a minimum amount
of time. I recall once I didn't take enough care while planing off the
bottom of a door and the plane dropped at the end of the cut slightly
and took a large chunk out of the door! I'm very, very wary of it,
because I know how easy it could take a chunk out of me! It has so
much power it literally jumps in my hand (torque from staionary) when
I switch it on.

With all that said, I REALLY fancy the idea of getting a small
bandsaw!

MM

"MM" wrote in message
...
I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).


Router with a 3/4" end bit.

Or a wobble blade in a saw bench

"MM" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 May 2011 21:17:16 +0100, "newshound"
wrote:



With all that said, I REALLY fancy the idea of getting a small
bandsaw!



Recently picked myself up a £650 bandsaw for £101 on ebay ......... not used
it much yet, but just got to have the toys.

On May 8, 10:50*pm, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
"MM" wrote in message

...

I'm cutting 1" deep half-lap joints into 3 x 2 (in the 3" side) to
inset a piece of 6 x 1. I'm doing it as I have always done by sawing
kerfs down to the required depth, then chiseling and filing (with a
rasp) until the inset piece fits snugly and flush against the surface
of the 3 x 2. It takes quite a time of trial and error (20 minutes per
joint).

Router with a 3/4" end bit.

Or a wobble blade in a saw bench

Now there sa thing I never tried..
Does it give square cuts at the end,,,?

I have done loads of trenching with
a handheld circular..
in a sliding frame,,

This device would also work for trenching,,

http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/a...ularSquare.jpg

A little saw bench would be handy for MM,,

golly how do you manage without a circular..

I tried a small dewalt bandsaw,, bur the cuts drifted all over,,
and i chucked it out of the shed one day...

Lousy things if you don't have a good one...


.................................................. ...........

.................................................. ..................................

On Mon, 09 May 2011 02:36:23 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 08/05/2011 22:56, Rick Hughes wrote:

"MM" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 6 May 2011 21:17:16 +0100, "newshound"
wrote:



With all that said, I REALLY fancy the idea of getting a small
bandsaw!



Recently picked myself up a £650 bandsaw for £101 on ebay ......... not
used it much yet, but just got to have the toys.

I don't get as much use out of mine as I would like - probably because I
have not spent the time tuning it well enough to cut perfectly parallel
to the fence yet.

Yes, that IS a consideration. I watched a YouTube video on setting up
a new bandsaw and it did seem like a lot of work compared to, say, a
power drill or electric plane.

Currently I have the Record Power BS250 Benchtop Bandsaw on my Amazon
wish list.

My main requirement would NOT be speed (compared to manual sawing),
but to obtain totally square cuts reliably. I always have to use a
shooting board to get a dead square finish.

MM

On May 8, 10:50*pm, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Or a wobble blade in a saw bench

Hateful things!

If you want to saw dados like this, at least use an American style
dado set - a couple of sawblades at the sides, spacer washers between
and a couple of chipper blades as needed.

You can buy US dado sets easily in the UK. It's a bit harder to find a
saw that can use them. You need an insert made up for each width, you
need a decent length of arbor on the saw, and if you're
industrial(ish) you have to worry about PUWER 98 and the spin down
time limits, which are quite hard to achieve (heavy DC injection
braking will unscrew a basic locknut).

Wobble saws are a pain to set up for accurate width and absolutely
fecking lethal for kickback.

My main requirement would NOT be speed (compared to manual sawing),
but to obtain totally square cuts reliably. I always have to use a
shooting board to get a dead square finish.

MM

I'd use a circular saw for speed, but you would be doing "blind" cuts
i.e. the blade can't clear itself, so is slightly prone to kickback. On
balance it sounds like a router might suit you better. Nothing much can
go wrong, and you'll find loads of uses for it.
FWIW planers have given me nothing but grief over the years :-)

On Mon, 09 May 2011 11:48:31 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:


My main requirement would NOT be speed (compared to manual sawing),
but to obtain totally square cuts reliably. I always have to use a
shooting board to get a dead square finish.

MM

I'd use a circular saw for speed, but you would be doing "blind" cuts
i.e. the blade can't clear itself, so is slightly prone to kickback. On
balance it sounds like a router might suit you better. Nothing much can
go wrong, and you'll find loads of uses for it.
FWIW planers have given me nothing but grief over the years :-)

Re the planers, yes, I really haven't used mine much, either. Like,
yesterday, I needed to trim the assembled joints on the bed frame, and
there's no way I'd have used the power plane. Too unwieldy. I used my
smaller jack plane instead, even if it did mean spending 15 minutes
first honing a really sharp edge as I was going to be cutting across
end grain.

MM

On Mon, 9 May 2011 02:59:32 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On May 8, 10:50*pm, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:

Or a wobble blade in a saw bench

Hateful things!

If you want to saw dados like this, at least use an American style
dado set - a couple of sawblades at the sides, spacer washers between
and a couple of chipper blades as needed.

You can buy US dado sets easily in the UK. It's a bit harder to find a
saw that can use them. You need an insert made up for each width, you
need a decent length of arbor on the saw, and if you're
industrial(ish) you have to worry about PUWER 98 and the spin down
time limits, which are quite hard to achieve (heavy DC injection
braking will unscrew a basic locknut).

Wobble saws are a pain to set up for accurate width and absolutely
fecking lethal for kickback.

Another possible alternative to a band saw for getting square cuts is
one of the new power saws, e.g. from Bosch. If one fixed up a jig, one
would only need to hold the saw in the jig and let the motor do the
work, i.e. just allow the saw to "sink" down through the cut.

MM

If you want to saw dados like this, at least use an American style
dado set - a couple of sawblades at the sides, spacer washers between
and a couple of chipper blades as needed.

You can buy US dado sets easily in the UK. It's a bit harder to find a
saw that can use them. You need an insert made up for each width, you
need a decent length of arbor on the saw, and if you're
industrial(ish) you have to worry about PUWER 98 and the spin down
time limits, which are quite hard to achieve (heavy DC injection
braking will unscrew a basic locknut).

Wobble saws are a pain to set up for accurate width and absolutely
fecking lethal for kickback.

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Another possible alternative to a band saw for getting square cuts is
one of the new power saws, e.g. from Bosch. If one fixed up a jig, one
would only need to hold the saw in the jig and let the motor do the
work, i.e. just allow the saw to "sink" down through the cut.
................................................


Honestly,,

You say you have a fear of cicular saws,,,

So do I ,, I think anyone with couple of greycells to rub togther
will
also have the fear,, or perhaps call it a respect for the tool.. ( all
important)

I think it is very healthy to think this way,, it is how people keep
all of their fingers..
You will find most people who work with them use push sticks for
tricky bits near the
end of cut...

I never did get hold of a decent saw bench with rise and fall and
tilt,,
But with the table jigs I expect you could easy set one up for
trenching out a few joints in small stuff..

I used this device for so much of that kind of work,, it was really
good,,and safe too because your fingers were never near the blade..

http://s867.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=HPIM0242.jpg

If the wood was accurately sized I could easily cut many tennons or
half ones,, square and true with great precision..


I think you should consider biting the bullet
and try a circular..


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