Hi all

I intend to fit an outdoor socket and went looking for some conduit and an
elbow this morning at B & Q.
In terms of elbows, all they seem to have is long radius inspection type
elbows.
Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Thanks

Phil

On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face of
the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the socket. Mount
the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a male adaptor with
its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm hole in the back of the
round box before fixing it to the wall and use the lock-ring that comes
with the male adaptor to secure the joint.

Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the round
box, in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round box comes
separately, and sealing gaskets are available for outdoor use. Using a
gasket doesn't do away with the need for a drain hole though.)

Black conduit will usually look much better than white on outdoor jobs.
You may need to go to a proper electrical wholesaler, rather than B&Q!

--
Andy

"Andy Wade" wrote

On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box
gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the
hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing
suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept
curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face of the
wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the socket. Mount the
conduit through the wall first, terminated in a male adaptor with its
shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm hole in the back of the round
box before fixing it to the wall and use the lock-ring that comes with the
male adaptor to secure the joint.

Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the round box,
in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round box comes
separately, and sealing gaskets are available for outdoor use. Using a
gasket doesn't do away with the need for a drain hole though.)

Black conduit will usually look much better than white on outdoor jobs.
You may need to go to a proper electrical wholesaler, rather than B&Q!

--
Andy

Thanks Andy - I'm fairly sure that those boxes are available in our local B
& Q warehouse.

Phil

In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
Thanks Andy - I'm fairly sure that those boxes are available in our
local B & Q warehouse.

I dunno about conduit, but B&Q prices mean that for most things any
alternative is better. And any electrical wholesaler would be glad of the
business.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

TheScullster wrote:

Thanks Andy - I'm fairly sure that those boxes are available in our local B
& Q warehouse.

They certainly were a couple of years ago when I used conduit last.

I went out and checked what elbows I'd used, they weren't the "long
swept" variety, but even the "short" variety have an inspection cover
and aren't particularly short, I think you'd be better with the round
box idea than an elbow protruding from the wall ...

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
TheScullster wrote:

Thanks Andy - I'm fairly sure that those boxes are available in our local
B
& Q warehouse.

They certainly were a couple of years ago when I used conduit last.

probably breaking all sorts of regulations to use with mains, but when i ran
in the wires from the garage under the paving stones and halfway accross the
lawn to the ornamental garden thingy, i used overflow pipe and it's elbows,

i was only running some 2 core figure of 8 wires for 12 and 24 volts power,
to run a few lights pointing at the little trees, and the 24 volts was for
the tacky xmas crap my parents like to put in there every year.

i put a hole thru the garage wall on a slight upwards slope (up towards the
inside) shoved some of the overflow pipe through the wall, then on the
outside part put on a 90 degree elbow, bit more pipe downwards into the
trench, another 90 degree elbow, then pipe accross the lawn under the slabs,
90 degree elbow at the end and a short stub of pipe and an old garden lamp
for the junction box,

i ran the cables with the joints appart, then glued them in place, as even
the highly flexiable low voltage wire would have had a hard job negotiating
3 90 degree bends if pulled through,

looks neat and tidy and the pipe that goes down the garage wall hugs it
nicely,

i believe the overflow pipe fittings are a different size to proper conduit
fittings, but maybe for your application of only a very short run, you could
use it... if the regs allow or you care.

On 05/05/2011 09:57, Andy Wade wrote:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box
gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the
hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing
suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept
curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face of
the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the socket. Mount
the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a male adaptor with
its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm hole in the back of the
round box before fixing it to the wall and use the lock-ring that comes
with the male adaptor to secure the joint.
....

Thats how I do it, although I prefer to use a female adaptor for a
smoother cable turn.

Colin Bignell

In article ,
Andy Wade writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face of
the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the socket. Mount
the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a male adaptor with
its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm hole in the back of the
round box before fixing it to the wall and use the lock-ring that comes
with the male adaptor to secure the joint.

Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the round
box, in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round box comes
separately, and sealing gaskets are available for outdoor use. Using a
gasket doesn't do away with the need for a drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a direct
leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also have a drain
hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a good "conduit"
for generating a condensate drip/leak on the inside.

Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on susceptability
to damage in that location) with a suitable gland. SWA tends to be
significantly tougher than PVC conduit, but there are less tough
cable options where that's not required.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Andy Wade writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket box
gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of the
hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve IYSWIM.
Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows, but nothing
suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a spring?
Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see why swept
curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face of
the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the socket. Mount
the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a male adaptor with
its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm hole in the back of the
round box before fixing it to the wall and use the lock-ring that comes
with the male adaptor to secure the joint.

Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the round
box, in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round box comes
separately, and sealing gaskets are available for outdoor use. Using a
gasket doesn't do away with the need for a drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a direct
leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also have a drain
hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a good "conduit"
for generating a condensate drip/leak on the inside.

Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on susceptability
to damage in that location) with a suitable gland. SWA tends to be
significantly tougher than PVC conduit, but there are less tough
cable options where that's not required.

--
Andrew Gabriel

To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T & E straight through the
wall and into the back of the socket box via the supplied grommet.
The instructions with the socket say something about not using the supplied
PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the socket box. I'm not sure
whether this requirement also holds for the cable grommet.
I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the hole in the
wall and had the cable going straight through a grommet in the back of the
box, that would have been preferable to potential moisture carrying conduit.
Then just drill out the drain hole in the socket box itself?

Comments welcome

Phil

John Rumm wrote:
On 05/05/2011 14:38, TheScullster wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Andy writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket
box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of
the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve
IYSWIM. Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows,
but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a
spring? Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see
why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face
of the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the
socket. Mount the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a
male adaptor with its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm
hole in the back of the round box before fixing it to the wall and
use the lock-ring that comes with the male adaptor to secure the
joint. Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the
round box, in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round
box comes separately, and sealing gaskets are available for
outdoor use. Using a gasket doesn't do away with the need for a
drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a direct
leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also have a drain
hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a good "conduit"
for generating a condensate drip/leak on the inside.

Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on susceptability
to damage in that location) with a suitable gland. SWA tends to be
significantly tougher than PVC conduit, but there are less tough
cable options where that's not required.

--
Andrew Gabriel

To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T& E straight
through the wall and into the back of the socket box via the
supplied grommet.

Its probably what I would do...

And me, with silicone to seal the hole. I'd still put a drain hole in and
"dress" the cables so that drip do not enter the terminals.

The instructions with the socket say something about not using the
supplied PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the socket
box. I'm not sure whether this requirement also holds for the cable
grommet.

You would not need a glad at all if T&E is entering from the back.

I normally seal along the top of such boxes against the wall, and down
each side a bit (leaving the bottom interface open).

A non-visible line of silicone across the tops and sides is good.


I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the hole
in the wall and had the cable going straight through a grommet in
the back of the box, that would have been preferable to potential
moisture carrying conduit. Then just drill out the drain hole in the
socket box itself?

Yup.

Agreed.


--
Adam

"ARWadsworth" wrote

John Rumm wrote:
On 05/05/2011 14:38, TheScullster wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Andy writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket
box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top of
the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve
IYSWIM. Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows,
but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a
spring? Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can see
why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the face
of the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the
socket. Mount the conduit through the wall first, terminated in a
male adaptor with its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20 mm
hole in the back of the round box before fixing it to the wall and
use the lock-ring that comes with the male adaptor to secure the
joint. Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the lowest point of the
round box, in case any water gets in. (NB The lid for the round
box comes separately, and sealing gaskets are available for
outdoor use. Using a gasket doesn't do away with the need for a
drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a direct
leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also have a drain
hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a good "conduit"
for generating a condensate drip/leak on the inside.

Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on susceptability
to damage in that location) with a suitable gland. SWA tends to be
significantly tougher than PVC conduit, but there are less tough
cable options where that's not required.

--
Andrew Gabriel

To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T& E straight
through the wall and into the back of the socket box via the
supplied grommet.

Its probably what I would do...

And me, with silicone to seal the hole. I'd still put a drain hole in and
"dress" the cables so that drip do not enter the terminals.

The instructions with the socket say something about not using the
supplied PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the socket
box. I'm not sure whether this requirement also holds for the cable
grommet.

You would not need a glad at all if T&E is entering from the back.

I normally seal along the top of such boxes against the wall, and down
each side a bit (leaving the bottom interface open).

A non-visible line of silicone across the tops and sides is good.


I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the hole
in the wall and had the cable going straight through a grommet in
the back of the box, that would have been preferable to potential
moisture carrying conduit. Then just drill out the drain hole in the
socket box itself?

Yup.

Agreed.


--
Adam


Thanks guys - that's saved me buying conduit and fittings etc unnecessarily.
But will Mr B approve or even notice it's there?

Phil

TheScullster wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote

John Rumm wrote:
On 05/05/2011 14:38, TheScullster wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Andy writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the socket
box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top
of the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting curve
IYSWIM. Looking on web sites they also show inspection elbows,
but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with a
spring? Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I can
see why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the
face of the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to the
socket. Mount the conduit through the wall first, terminated in
a male adaptor with its shoulder flush with the wall. Drill a 20
mm hole in the back of the round box before fixing it to the
wall and use the lock-ring that comes with the male adaptor to
secure the joint. Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the
lowest point of the round box, in case any water gets in. (NB
The lid for the round box comes separately, and sealing gaskets are
available for
outdoor use. Using a gasket doesn't do away with the need for a
drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a direct
leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also have a drain
hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a good "conduit"
for generating a condensate drip/leak on the inside.

Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on susceptability
to damage in that location) with a suitable gland. SWA tends to be
significantly tougher than PVC conduit, but there are less tough
cable options where that's not required.

--
Andrew Gabriel

To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T& E straight
through the wall and into the back of the socket box via the
supplied grommet.

Its probably what I would do...

And me, with silicone to seal the hole. I'd still put a drain hole
in and "dress" the cables so that drip do not enter the terminals.

The instructions with the socket say something about not using the
supplied PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the socket
box. I'm not sure whether this requirement also holds for the
cable grommet.

You would not need a glad at all if T&E is entering from the back.

I normally seal along the top of such boxes against the wall, and
down each side a bit (leaving the bottom interface open).

A non-visible line of silicone across the tops and sides is good.


I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the
hole in the wall and had the cable going straight through a
grommet in the back of the box, that would have been preferable to
potential moisture carrying conduit. Then just drill out the drain
hole in the socket box itself?

Yup.

Agreed.


--
Adam


Thanks guys - that's saved me buying conduit and fittings etc
unnecessarily. But will Mr B approve or even notice it's there?

He will see a waterproof outside socket. That's all he needs to know.

--
Adam

John Rumm wrote:
On 05/05/2011 15:08, ARWadsworth wrote:
wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote

John wrote:
On 05/05/2011 14:38, TheScullster wrote:
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote

Andy writes:
On 05/05/2011 09:10, TheScullster wrote:

Now I want to come straight out the wall and up into the
socket box gland,
so even with a short radius style elbow, it looks like the top
of the hole
in the wall will need enlarging to accommodate the fitting
curve IYSWIM. Looking on web sites they also show inspection
elbows, but nothing suitable
for my application.
Do such things exist, or is it usual to bend the conduit with
a spring? Either way, the curve length seems unsuitable - I
can see why swept curves
would generally be appropriate for cable pulling etc.

Use a 1-way round conduit box (aka 'BESA box') mounted on the
face of the wall, with a short vertical run of conduit up to
the socket. Mount the conduit through the wall first,
terminated in a male adaptor with its shoulder flush with the wall.
Drill a
20 mm hole in the back of the round box before fixing it to the
wall and use the lock-ring that comes with the male adaptor to
secure the joint. Drill a small drain hole (5 or 6 mm) at the
lowest point of the round box, in case any water gets in. (NB
The lid for the round box comes separately, and sealing
gaskets are available for
outdoor use. Using a gasket doesn't do away with the need for
a drain hole though.)

Water always gets in to conduit, via condensation if not a
direct leak. Same for the socket back box, which should also
have a drain hole. Conduit passing through an outside wall is a
good "conduit" for generating a condensate drip/leak on the
inside. Just wondering why the OP wants to use conduit for this?
I would use one of the outdoor cables (depending on
susceptability to damage in that location) with a suitable
gland. SWA tends to be significantly tougher than PVC conduit,
but there are less tough cable options where that's not
required. --
Andrew Gabriel

To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T& E straight
through the wall and into the back of the socket box via the
supplied grommet.

Its probably what I would do...

And me, with silicone to seal the hole. I'd still put a drain hole
in and "dress" the cables so that drip do not enter the terminals.

The instructions with the socket say something about not using
the supplied PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the
socket box. I'm not sure whether this requirement also holds
for the cable grommet.

You would not need a glad at all if T&E is entering from the back.

I normally seal along the top of such boxes against the wall, and
down each side a bit (leaving the bottom interface open).

A non-visible line of silicone across the tops and sides is good.


I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the
hole in the wall and had the cable going straight through a
grommet in the back of the box, that would have been preferable
to potential moisture carrying conduit. Then just drill out the
drain hole in the socket box itself?

Yup.

Agreed.


--
Adam


Thanks guys - that's saved me buying conduit and fittings etc
unnecessarily. But will Mr B approve or even notice it's there?

He will see a waterproof outside socket. That's all he needs to know.

IIRC - outside socket on the wall of a house, fed from an existing
circuit is a non notifiable job anyway.


So hide it behind the wheeliebin/BBQ/wheelbarrow/cannabis plant etc.

Adam
--
Adam

snip big snip
IIRC - outside socket on the wall of a house, fed from an existing
circuit is a non notifiable job anyway.


So hide it behind the wheeliebin/BBQ/wheelbarrow/cannabis plant etc.

No need to hide it if its not notifiable. Tell anyone who asks, its
none of their business!

possibly and idiot boy question: but if, as I understand it, The Lord
Scullster is doing "the whole thing" under a building notice (and has
included this in "the whole thing") then isn't "the whole thing" subject
to inspection and required to meet the relevant regs?

--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com

In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
To be honest I was/am tempted just to take the T & E straight through
the wall and into the back of the socket box via the supplied grommet.
The instructions with the socket say something about not using the
supplied PVC gland anywhere other than in the bottom of the socket box.
I'm not sure whether this requirement also holds for the cable
grommet. I would have thought that if I sealed between the cable and the
hole in the wall and had the cable going straight through a grommet in
the back of the box, that would have been preferable to potential
moisture carrying conduit. Then just drill out the drain hole in the
socket box itself?

I did just that on a brick wall. Can't remember the make - came from TLC.
But I sunk the entire thing into the brick by about an inch or so - looks
less just stuck on. So may prevent water getting in from the back.

--
*It ain't the size, it's... er... no, it IS ..the size.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"John Rumm" wrote

On 05/05/2011 19:28, Robin wrote:
snip big snip
IIRC - outside socket on the wall of a house, fed from an existing
circuit is a non notifiable job anyway.


So hide it behind the wheeliebin/BBQ/wheelbarrow/cannabis plant etc.

No need to hide it if its not notifiable. Tell anyone who asks, its
none of their business!

possibly and idiot boy question: but if, as I understand it, The Lord
Scullster is doing "the whole thing" under a building notice (and has
included this in "the whole thing") then isn't "the whole thing" subject
to inspection and required to meet the relevant regs?

Only the bits he has listed on his building notice. So if the BN specs
revuilding kitchen, including electrics, and he decides to go do some
"minor electrical works" elsewhere in the property then its not a part of
the stuff covered by the building notice.

--

Hi John

This does form part of the building notice because the socket is fed from a
switched spur on the kitchen ring - the council still have to sign off on
the ring and the lighting circuit. I did mention the outdoor socket to Mr
B, but he didn't seem overly interested/concerned. He agreed that
additional RCD protection (above that covering the kitchen ring itself)
would not be necessary.

Phil

"Dave Plowman (News)"

In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
Thanks Andy - I'm fairly sure that those boxes are available in our
local B & Q warehouse.

I dunno about conduit, but B&Q prices mean that for most things any
alternative is better. And any electrical wholesaler would be glad of the
business.

--
*He who laughs last, thinks slowest.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave

Have to say that my experience here (in Hull) tends to be different.
Wholesalers tend to be equal to B&Q on price as I don't have an account with
any.
Got a good deal on double MK sockets from B&Q in multi-packs.
For higher value items where quality counts, wholesalers can sometimes be
haggled to a reasonable price.

Phil

In article ,
TheScullster wrote:
Have to say that my experience here (in Hull) tends to be different.
Wholesalers tend to be equal to B&Q on price as I don't have an account
with any. Got a good deal on double MK sockets from B&Q in multi-packs.
For higher value items where quality counts, wholesalers can sometimes
be haggled to a reasonable price.

Very different here - B&Q tend to be about 30% more expensive than a
wholesaler. Although some 'headline' items may be about the same. It's all
the little bits you need at the same time that push the overall price up.

You don't need an account with any round here.

--
*Modulation in all things *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 06/05/2011 09:58, TheScullster wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)"
I dunno about conduit, but B&Q prices mean that for most things any
alternative is better. And any electrical wholesaler would be glad of the
business.

Have to say that my experience here (in Hull) tends to be different.
Wholesalers tend to be equal to B&Q on price as I don't have an account with
any.

CPC is pretty cheap for 20/25mm conduit bits, and have better stock than
some of the walk-in 'trade' outlets around here, particularly for
rounded elbows. Stockup on their next WEBFREE day?

Got a good deal on double MK sockets from B&Q in multi-packs.

Don't know what's happening to MK. My local "99p store" stocks the MK
Avant range of switches and aerial faceplates at 99p each...

http://i975.photobucket.com/albums/ae231/BillyBits/MKAvant99p.jpg

--
Adrian C