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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 12:17*pm, Rupert Bear wrote:
Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix *and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


OK,,,Cancel on that guys..?

Job Done..
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..


"Rupert Bear" wrote

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


OK,,,Cancel on that guys..?

Job Done..


How exactly?


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..


"TheScullster" wrote in message
...

"Rupert Bear" wrote

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


OK,,,Cancel on that guys..?

Job Done..


How exactly?



Angle grinder.

--
The man who smiles when things go wrong
has thought of someone to blame it on.

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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 12:45*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 14/04/2011 12:17, Rupert Bear wrote:

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix *and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


ok, good move - that usually keeps the tank more rigid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


You may be better off with the large ring spanner, and then hitting it
rather than attempting to apply a continuous torque. Also check round
the threads make sure there is no jointing compound or leak sealer built
up round the interface. Raking any of that out first can help greatly.

--
Cheers,

John.



One danger is that you tear off the whole copper fitting that the
heater is screwed into. Can you get a big stilson around the neck of
the copper bit?

Robert



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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 3:57*pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
"Rupert Bear" wrote

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


OK,,,Cancel on that guys..?

Job Done..

How exactly?


Curiousity is a great thing...

I cut about 18 inches of three inch galve tube and welded it on to the
horrid box spanner to get away from the tank and clear the loft
hatch...

Drill 18 mill hole through the end a find a decent sized tommy bar...

You end up with something like a giant wheel brace and you can put
loads of torque on..

Run a little bead of weld around the flat walls of the box spanner and
it tightens up a little and strenghtens the walls,, that might have
been overkill ,, but it did no harm,, it definately gave it a more
solid grip.. The risk was that if you put too much weld around it you
could shrink the box
spanner too much.....

Old element is now loosened and all probs are sussed..

I should have said job sussed ,, cos here I am sitting at the puter
again..
Ill get to it later..



.................................................. .......


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 4:07*pm, RobertL wrote:
On Apr 14, 12:45*pm, John Rumm wrote:



On 14/04/2011 12:17, Rupert Bear wrote:


Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix *and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


ok, good move - that usually keeps the tank more rigid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


You may be better off with the large ring spanner, and then hitting it
rather than attempting to apply a continuous torque. Also check round
the threads make sure there is no jointing compound or leak sealer built
up round the interface. Raking any of that out first can help greatly.


--
Cheers,


John.


One danger is that you tear off the whole copper fitting that the
heater is screwed into. Can you get a big stilson around the neck of
the copper bit?

Robert


Not possible,, it is resessed... on this tank..
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 12:17*pm, Rupert Bear wrote:
Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix *and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Thu, 14 Apr 2011 08:16:39 -0700, Rupert Bear wrote:
You end up with something like a giant wheel brace and you can put loads
of torque on..


I had about 8' of bar on such a contraption last year, and one of the
elements in my dual-element tank still wasn't shifting :-)

The bar was around 1" OD, 1/8" thick walls - and just kept bending. I
swear previous owners must have sent some rodents into the tank with
welding equipment and welded the element in place from the inside

One day it'll fail (at the time, I just wanted it out to gain better
access to de-sludge the tank) and I'll spend some time trying to drill it
out, I suppose, and give in and just buy a new tank if needed - maybe the
dip-tube will have failed and rendered it junk before then anyway.

I like the shrinking tip, though; the first spanner that I had was
utterly useless and probably would have benefitted from this.

cheers

Jules
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 4:02*pm, Nitro® wrote:

Angle grinder.


That's how I did the last one. Took the element to bits with the
grinder and peeled the threaded portion inwards, off the tank thread.
Took ages, but it's easier than tearing the tank and having to repair
that.



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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..


"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:
Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...

I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...

It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.

We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 14, 6:49*pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:
"harry" wrote in message

....
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. *The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.

We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.


You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..


"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 14, 6:49 pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:
"harry" wrote in message

...
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:

Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.

We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.


You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.

Well, there was jointing paste there.
We used to heat up the copper in the hope that it would expand before the
immersion heater did.
It always worked ......38 years ago ........arggggg!


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 15, 8:15*am, harry wrote:
On Apr 14, 6:49*pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:



"harry" wrote in message


....
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:


Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. *The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.


We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.


You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.


Is it possible that when you see traces of boss white,,
It is an indication that the person who originally fitted the element
had little faith in the gasket..
and has also cranked it up extra tight from the outset...

I agree with the use of heat as a cure for most stubborn or rusted
fittings...
in general,, apply enough of it and something will eventually give..

Course on a copper tank the heat will disipate so fast,,
you would end up with the whole tank roasting hot i expect..
There would perhaps be only a small moment of time when the
heat expanded the outer more than the inner,, virtually making it a
two man job,,
one to hold the blowlamp and one to apply pressure on the tool..

What with the tank being boxed in like it is,, I just did not fancy
trying the blowamp trick
up in the loft.. Dangerous if it fell over..

Anyway,, I went up there last night and tackled the job and me poor
old bodily particules are still in recovery...
I do not bend and flex like i used to,, the moment i kneel i get a
cramp in my little toes...
It is fair to say that any and all work in awkward places involves
pain and sufferin today...
Shattered after a we job like that,,stiff and sore all over,,grumph
grumph grumph...

I dint expect so much interest,,, rummy suggested I took a couple of
piccies,,
of the beastly box spanner..
I will try an post sometime...

Might stick some other DIY snaps up there too...


...............................................


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..


"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
...
On Apr 15, 8:15 am, harry wrote:
On Apr 14, 6:49 pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:



"harry" wrote in message


...
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:


Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...


I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...


It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...


What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.


We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.


You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.


Is it possible that when you see traces of boss white,,
It is an indication that the person who originally fitted the element
had little faith in the gasket..
and has also cranked it up extra tight from the outset...

I agree with the use of heat as a cure for most stubborn or rusted
fittings...
in general,, apply enough of it and something will eventually give..

Course on a copper tank the heat will disipate so fast,,
you would end up with the whole tank roasting hot i expect..
There would perhaps be only a small moment of time when the
heat expanded the outer more than the inner,, virtually making it a
two man job,,
one to hold the blowlamp and one to apply pressure on the tool..

Heat up the copper, turn off and drop the blowlamp.
We used to use a BIG pair of stilsons. Those spanners were always crap.
We also used the original seal cleaned up & with jointing paste when we put
the immersion heater back in... hmmm.

What with the tank being boxed in like it is,, I just did not fancy
trying the blowamp trick
up in the loft.. Dangerous if it fell over..

Anyway,, I went up there last night and tackled the job and me poor
old bodily particules are still in recovery...
I do not bend and flex like i used to,, the moment i kneel i get a
cramp in my little toes...
It is fair to say that any and all work in awkward places involves
pain and sufferin today...
Shattered after a we job like that,,stiff and sore all over,,grumph
grumph grumph...

I dint expect so much interest,,, rummy suggested I took a couple of
piccies,,
of the beastly box spanner..
I will try an post sometime...

Might stick some other DIY snaps up there too...




...............................................


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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

Mr Pounder wrote:
"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
...
On Apr 15, 8:15 am, harry wrote:
On Apr 14, 6:49 pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:



"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:
Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...
I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...
It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...
What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.
We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.

You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.


Is it possible that when you see traces of boss white,,
It is an indication that the person who originally fitted the element
had little faith in the gasket..
and has also cranked it up extra tight from the outset...

I agree with the use of heat as a cure for most stubborn or rusted
fittings...
in general,, apply enough of it and something will eventually give..

Course on a copper tank the heat will disipate so fast,,
you would end up with the whole tank roasting hot i expect..
There would perhaps be only a small moment of time when the
heat expanded the outer more than the inner,, virtually making it a
two man job,,
one to hold the blowlamp and one to apply pressure on the tool..


then apply freeze spray or indeed WD40 to the inner.
Classic way to free siezed threads.
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Default How to Loosen.. 3 1/2 inch imersion heater in hw tank..

On Apr 16, 6:07*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Mr Pounder wrote:
"Rupert Bear" wrote in message
....
On Apr 15, 8:15 am, harry wrote:
On Apr 14, 6:49 pm, "Mr Pounder"
wrote:


"harry" wrote in message
...
On Apr 14, 12:17 pm, Rupert Bear wrote:
Any tips,, because it is really tight...
I bought a big box spanner from screwfix and it feels as though it
might slip..
It is too tight for me to move... Struggling here...
I just wanted to see if i could move it before i drained the tank,,
Left water in so it would sit solid...
It is one of those square combo tanks with insulation boxed around
it...
What you need is a hacksaw blade wrapped in tape to make a handle.
Use this to saw the washer out. They are quite thick.You must go all
the way through and all the way round. The tank is very thin
material, if you use any force on it, it will rupture.
We used to heat it up with a blow lamp when I was a lad.
You usually find someone has used "boss white" or similar on the
washer. Blowlamp won't help if they have.


Is it possible that when you see traces of boss white,,
It is an indication that the person who originally fitted the element
had little faith in the gasket..
and has also cranked it up extra tight from the outset...


I agree with the use of heat as a cure for most stubborn or rusted
fittings...
in general,, apply enough of it and something will eventually give..


Course on a copper tank the heat will disipate so fast,,
you would end up with the whole tank roasting hot i expect..
There would perhaps be only a small moment of time when the
heat expanded the outer more than the inner,, virtually making it a
two man job,,
one to hold the blowlamp and one to apply pressure on the tool..


then apply freeze spray or indeed WD40 to the inner.
Classic way to free siezed threads.


Yea that sounds like a nice touch too...

You are aware of copper annealing I take it..

Heat it up and quench it in water,, it then becomes very soft...?

I have no idea exactly how hot it has to be for this to work,,
but I do know that it does and have used it on occasion to
soften old copper washers that were leaking oil out of a sump plug..

Just been looking at the old immersion element,,, I would think if
one
was stuck one could drill a row of holes across the inside and then
place a chunky piece of flat bar through the slot...
That would make all sorts of gripping methods available..

Or maybe just two big holes and devise a tool with suitable lugs...


.................................................

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