What keeps the brush section to the floor, on changing verticality of
handle? Is
it back torque through the belt/clutch system or some spring action.
Got through the topology puzzles to get it all back together after sorting
out belt/clutch problem , now working vacuum cleaner except the brush head
wants to stay in whatever manually set position.
Brush head swivels its full extent but will not self align with the floor,
regardless of handle angle. I suspect something is misaligned/binding and
brush section should swivel easier and then belts back-torque gives the
floor-hugging action.

In article , N_Cook
writes
What keeps the brush section to the floor, on changing verticality of
handle? Is
it back torque through the belt/clutch system or some spring action.
Got through the topology puzzles to get it all back together after sorting
out belt/clutch problem , now working vacuum cleaner except the brush head
wants to stay in whatever manually set position.
Brush head swivels its full extent but will not self align with the floor,
regardless of handle angle. I suspect something is misaligned/binding and
brush section should swivel easier and then belts back-torque gives the
floor-hugging action.

Once it's freed from the vertical position it just stays down by weight
so it sounds like you made a mistake on reassembly and it is binding.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

fred wrote:

In article , N_Cook
writes
What keeps the brush section to the floor, on changing verticality of
handle? Is
it back torque through the belt/clutch system or some spring action.
Got through the topology puzzles to get it all back together after sorting
out belt/clutch problem , now working vacuum cleaner except the brush head
wants to stay in whatever manually set position.
Brush head swivels its full extent but will not self align with the floor,
regardless of handle angle. I suspect something is misaligned/binding and
brush section should swivel easier and then belts back-torque gives the
floor-hugging action.

Once it's freed from the vertical position it just stays down by weight
so it sounds like you made a mistake on reassembly and it is binding.

I've just rescued one of these from the rubbish, it all seems to function
but the top filters needed washing. I must say I'm impressed with the
improvements over the early grey one. The passageways are accessible and
the brush drive is disengaged when upright for ordinary vacuuming.

This one had had the brush housing assembled wrongly with the part that
locks the brush head on the RHS by the removable manifold being the wrong
side of the casing. Could this be the problem?

AJH

andrew wrote in message
...
fred wrote:

In article , N_Cook
writes
What keeps the brush section to the floor, on changing verticality of
handle? Is
it back torque through the belt/clutch system or some spring action.
Got through the topology puzzles to get it all back together after
sorting
out belt/clutch problem , now working vacuum cleaner except the brush
head
wants to stay in whatever manually set position.
Brush head swivels its full extent but will not self align with the
floor,
regardless of handle angle. I suspect something is misaligned/binding
and
brush section should swivel easier and then belts back-torque gives the
floor-hugging action.

Once it's freed from the vertical position it just stays down by weight
so it sounds like you made a mistake on reassembly and it is binding.

I've just rescued one of these from the rubbish, it all seems to function
but the top filters needed washing. I must say I'm impressed with the
improvements over the early grey one. The passageways are accessible and
the brush drive is disengaged when upright for ordinary vacuuming.

This one had had the brush housing assembled wrongly with the part that
locks the brush head on the RHS by the removable manifold being the wrong
side of the casing. Could this be the problem?

AJH

This one was also rescued from being dumped and a few days of heavy rain on
it.
Some silicone grease on the 3 pairs of surfaces that rotate over one another
and
then the reactive torque of the belt train is enough to keep the brush down.
Next time I take one of these apart I will grease those surfaces before
reassembly. Perhaps marginally different alignment brought different
surfaces to rub.

I've just realised I've delved into most areas of this Dyson, motor,
clutch,bands , mains switch, hose anchor and failed pipe lock in the wand
handle. But I don't know what the mechanism is that auto cuts the brush
action, on returning the handle to the vertical position.

In article ,
"N_Cook" writes:
I've just realised I've delved into most areas of this Dyson, motor,
clutch,bands , mains switch, hose anchor and failed pipe lock in the wand
handle. But I don't know what the mechanism is that auto cuts the brush
action, on returning the handle to the vertical position.

There's a clutch, operated by the handle position.
I once got too much brick dust in it and it started slipping.
A blast with a compressed air can fixed it and I didn't have
to take it apart in the end, so I haven't seen exactly what
the mechanism is.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote in message
...
In article ,
"N_Cook" writes:
I've just realised I've delved into most areas of this Dyson, motor,
clutch,bands , mains switch, hose anchor and failed pipe lock in the
wand
handle. But I don't know what the mechanism is that auto cuts the brush
action, on returning the handle to the vertical position.

There's a clutch, operated by the handle position.
I once got too much brick dust in it and it started slipping.
A blast with a compressed air can fixed it and I didn't have
to take it apart in the end, so I haven't seen exactly what
the mechanism is.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

My write-up of a Dyson repair and exploration

Dyson DC04 , 2007 on the mains plug
Yellow and mainly grey/silver version
Mark with coloured felt-pen mating lines before removing sections, as 3D
compound curve structures
and an exercise in topology
6 torx underneath
remove cyclone
Lift and turn grey felt pad holder anulus to remove revealing 4 screws
remove elbow inspection piece
undo both yellow plastic large circlips with long nose pliers
Relieve spring loaded black lever next to motor casing and turn brush
section.
Pull belt and pull the brush bar through to remove
To remmove yellow clutch cover.
On internal black adjascent to the yellow user-turned cap
protruding index line there is a pair of Vs in the black and also 180
degrees around on other side,
feel more than see. thin rod in a V to release yellow section of lock catch,
angled so pressure to internal yellow
part is outwards (or perhaps black section inwards) , same on diametric
catch.
This yellow cap then comes off with some pulling and then the clutch section
will
come out on undoing the screws.
Similar for mains switch, To remove yellow know insert 1.5mm rod ( with 2mm
long wedged ground end) in the V notch near handle , mark 20mm mark on this
rod so know when hitting mouldiong recess not the ledge of the catch. Turn
the rod 180 degrees and pull the knob with large circlip pliers.
Innards of clutch. Cussion ratchet end of axle before removing the circlip
as it is spring
loaded , and not loose the 3 ball "percussion" slip clutch ( the part that
makes the nasty noise
if brush is jammed)
Reassembly - lay end cap upwards holding both dog-clutch shaped rings
uppermost. Hold axle in housing
and place over the end housing, turn until locked, jiggling inside with a
jewellers screwdriver for
alignment, replace the 2 screws.
Refit the circlip and clutch mechanism should work now on turning the
ever( still leaver
yellow cap cover off), check before progressing.
Belts (old , working but maybe stretched) 12x2mm x 255mm outside
circumference
and 7x2 x 262mm, 17 percent extension , doubled up) on 3kg load .
Cleaned and turned inside out. Glazing etc scraped off all baluster pulleys
and motor shaft one cleaned and axially fine abraided.
Reassembly of clutch into brush section. Black lip that goes into the belt
channel
in the yellow, enter into the slot but angled, force the pair of
accompanying
shrouds either side of the yellow. Belt slot slides and clicks into place.
Check the drive clutch works. Add the yellow cap only after motor reassembly
and powered up
Motor spins clockwise , viewing belt drive end, turns easily that way and a
bit of motor brush noise the wrong way.
With 34V on a variac , after a few seconds getting up to speed then .91A and
103 revs per second.
At the belt end 4 retainers hold the grey ring, 2 screwdrivers one large,
one small , release
those catches, mark beforehand. Pull out rubber cover again marked.
Motor just located by 2 plastic pillars in the othe rrubber disc at the
other end of th eaxle, so
mechanically decoupled from passing vibration to chassis
..22uF 275V cap and thermal fuse marked
17AM026A5 -11 Undo screw to remove C and fuse , mark orientation
22 commutator lands
brushes 10.7x6.9x=26.5mm , bend back tang near solder
and move the plate across to remove brushes, then measuring
2.6R across diametric commutator lands , .6R adjascent and 1.5R and 1.6R
stators
Motor and Fan 1.35 Kg motor marked for 240V
YDX YV 511 1F1Z
Reassembly of motor, guide belt just over the end of the axle so the whole
brush casing is loosely
aligned with and around the motor in the central recess. Offer up both into
the main body and cajole
sections into place. Push side rings over the pivots and reclip yellow
circlips.
Check the clutch and motor works by turning the brush and should hear the
motor spinning plus
reistance to turning with clutch in.
Replace hose to brush section
Replacing the pivoting sliding diverter duct that carries the user
accessible airway
inspection elbow. Replace the circlip and then the profiled rubber ring then
just
vaguely locates on the boss, held in place by the inspection elbow, with
thin flap part in viewed position.
If the main swivel action jams that is brush housing relative to main boidy
, so the handle
will not return to the vertical position. Probably the mechanism that
disengages the clutch
in that position. Remove the exhaust filter, 2 screws in that recess,
nearest handle and one
at the diverter and slacken the remaining. Then the diverter duct/swivel
cowling will drop into
place with some joggling, replace and tighten screws. Diverter duct selects
air
inlet from brush or wand.
To save digging out a 6 amp variac, that had got buried over the years.
Without cyclone section in place but otherwise reassembled vacuum cleaner
Using for a couple of seconds with a 26R / 200W resistor in series with 2 x
24V/240W
halogen lamps all in series with the Dyson, off 240V mains. 110V drops to
about 90 V
over the R.
Replacing 26R with 2.8R/200W plus the 2 lamps, a bit of thermal run away on
the lamps going from orange
to just white and stopped , V over 2.8R about 12V
Replaced with both lamps in parallel and runs stable with 12.7V over the
2.8R so
had confidence to run sttraight off the mains with no droppers.
White sticker on the brush and that spins at 33 Hz/ 33 RPS with a strobe
light.
If brush head fails to "stick" to floor with moving handle angle in use.
Silicone grease
on the sections of plastic that glide over one another at the sides and the
slot towards
the middle. Then the reactive back torque from the motor bands/clutch will
take
the brush head downwards. Next time grease these reltive rotating side
surfaces before reassembly.
Broken hose near wand handle. To remove the black core that anchors the
hose.
Some old conventional callipers with a plastic kids mosaic
Hama/Perler/Pearler bead
pushed on each tip, located over each of the small black locating lugs,
tightened using the callipers knurled nut. Then engineers cramp to squash
much tighter to push the plastic lugs inward enough to then push with a bar
inside the
lock end. When dislodged then push in the vacuum release button and core
will pull out. Remove the broken end , cut the wire, until good wire and
inside and outside layers of
plastic hose. Turn one turn onto the channel in the core.
Lock for the Al tube not working . With the hose anchor removed,
joggle out the 2 springs and then the yellow sliding lock ring will fall
away
inside, just gummed up with dirt, so clean up sliding and mating surfaces.

In article ,
says...
But I don't know what the mechanism is that auto cuts the brush
action, on returning the handle to the vertical position.

Here's the patent, if you're interested!
http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6691849.html

It's a clutch pack that has a lever sticking out of the side. The lever
is pushed round by the side of the body which disengages the clutch when
upright. When you tilt the handle back it releases the lever and engages
the clutch.

http://wn.com/How_to_replace_the_clu...4,_DC07_D C14

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.

On Mon, 21 Feb 2011 14:48:28 -0000, "N_Cook"
wrote:

for mains switch, To remove yellow know insert 1.5mm rod ( with 2mm
long wedged ground end) in the V notch near handle , mark 20mm mark on this
rod so know when hitting mouldiong recess not the ledge of the catch. Turn
the rod 180 degrees and pull the knob with large circlip pliers.

Thanks for a detailed write-up. I need to remove the switch on mine.
This 1.5mm rod that you describe, did you make that yourself with a
bench grinder?

Thanks,
Stephen.