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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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I took pity on this m/c dumped and had been rained on, half a pint of water
in the lower casing. I've seen a hose attached to these beasts but took me 5 minutes of head scratching to discover that secret, as no external hose attachement point. Powered for 2 seconds, sounded ok but probably an excessive chemically/ ozone smell. Then tipped upside down to get in case and water flowed out but had not been enogh to invade the motor. Needs Torx 10 and 15 drivers to remove casings. Fancy looking design appearance but the motor to me looks like the same sort of vacuum cleaner motor of 30 years ago. Nothing visibly wrong with stator coils or rotor coils. Resistance measurements across and between segments seemed ok. Bit of a noise from the brushes once a revolution, spun by hand. Pulled off the spade terminals to unlock and then release the brush housings. Then spinning the armature with a finger nail against the flow and gradually increasing the nail angle a point was reached where one armature segment would catch. Measuring with a 1 to 2 inch micrometer then the diameter across the commutator was 1.185 inches and 1.192 for the errant commutator contact strip. Plenty of life left in the brushes but spark erroded surfaces and broken leading brush edge. Why should just one segment be proud? , doesn't seem loose. Not familiar with this sort of fault. At the moment I am thinking of spinning in a lathe to bring down this contact. Point tool or rounded cutter or pointed then round ? At the moment thinking of grinding back the brushes with a stone about 1.2 inches diameter and then using commutator bedding stone. Anyone know any better or the pitfalls ? Relieving the edges of the commutator strips perhaps with a needle file ? electronic hints and repair briefs http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse |
#2
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Check for a shorted armature winding.
--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive traffic on Repairfaq.org. Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. "N Cook" writes: I took pity on this m/c dumped and had been rained on, half a pint of water in the lower casing. I've seen a hose attached to these beasts but took me 5 minutes of head scratching to discover that secret, as no external hose attachement point. Powered for 2 seconds, sounded ok but probably an excessive chemically/ ozone smell. Then tipped upside down to get in case and water flowed out but had not been enogh to invade the motor. Needs Torx 10 and 15 drivers to remove casings. Fancy looking design appearance but the motor to me looks like the same sort of vacuum cleaner motor of 30 years ago. Nothing visibly wrong with stator coils or rotor coils. Resistance measurements across and between segments seemed ok. Bit of a noise from the brushes once a revolution, spun by hand. Pulled off the spade terminals to unlock and then release the brush housings. Then spinning the armature with a finger nail against the flow and gradually increasing the nail angle a point was reached where one armature segment would catch. Measuring with a 1 to 2 inch micrometer then the diameter across the commutator was 1.185 inches and 1.192 for the errant commutator contact strip. Plenty of life left in the brushes but spark erroded surfaces and broken leading brush edge. Why should just one segment be proud? , doesn't seem loose. Not familiar with this sort of fault. At the moment I am thinking of spinning in a lathe to bring down this contact. Point tool or rounded cutter or pointed then round ? At the moment thinking of grinding back the brushes with a stone about 1.2 inches diameter and then using commutator bedding stone. Anyone know any better or the pitfalls ? Relieving the edges of the commutator strips perhaps with a needle file ? electronic hints and repair briefs http://homepages.tcp.co.uk/~diverse |
#3
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![]() "N Cook" wrote in message ... | I took pity on this m/c dumped and had been rained on, half a pint of water .... | contact. Point tool or rounded cutter or pointed then round ? | At the moment thinking of grinding back the brushes with a stone about 1.2 | inches diameter and then using | commutator bedding stone. Anyone know any better or the pitfalls ? Relieving | the edges of the commutator Don't use abrasives anywhere near this. See any good book on motor repair re turning and undercutting. N |
#4
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I've now repaired the motor. Now a problem
related to use. Not familiar with these upright 'hoovers' and this one was retrieved from being dumped. I don't know if its something missing or what. The only way I can keep the swivel base section with rotary brush in contact with the floor is to hook a piece of bungee between the rotary brush housing section and the mains-cable clip on the handle base. Should this whole section be pivotting totally freely so torque with the drive belt keeps the base in contact with the floor or is some spring mechanism missing ? |
#5
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![]() "N Cook" wrote in message ... I've now repaired the motor. Now a problem related to use. Not familiar with these upright 'hoovers' and this one was retrieved from being dumped. I don't know if its something missing or what. The only way I can keep the swivel base section with rotary brush in contact with the floor is to hook a piece of bungee between the rotary brush housing section and the mains-cable clip on the handle base. Should this whole section be pivotting totally freely so torque with the drive belt keeps the base in contact with the floor or is some spring mechanism missing ? I have used this type of vacuum a couple of times. The brush piece was very solidly attached to the main unit. However, a light step on the brush unit and it was firmly in position for use. I have been on the dyson website - no help for your repair there - perhaps they will send you more info if you inquire? someone2 |
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