There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

"geraldthehamster" wrote in message
...
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

http://www.countryliving.co.uk/index...oom/topic/3571

On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

We have a Super Demon Boiler from the Hellfire Combustion Company.It
produces 60,000 BTU/hr on wood and 75,000 BTU/hr on solid fuels. It
has a back boiler and will heat up to 15 (I think) radiators.
Excellent machine.

Regards

Jonathan

Jonathan wrote:

On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

We have a Super Demon Boiler from the Hellfire Combustion Company.It
produces 60,000 BTU/hr on wood and 75,000 BTU/hr on solid fuels. It
has a back boiler and will heat up to 15 (I think) radiators.
Excellent machine.

If someone asks for a recommendation for a small runabout car for
urban commuting and shopping, please bear in mind that it's not
going to help the enquirer much if you tell them how happy you are
with your 4x4 with a tow hook that will take a trailer in which you
can carry 15 weeks' worth of shopping.

So here we have someone asking about stoves in the 5-8kW range,
and you wax lyrical about a stove which gives 60-75 kBTU/h, which
is around 20 kW. Duh.

Someone else mentioned Morso, which I would endorse. They make a
range of multifuel stoves from just under 5 to just over 10 kW.
Many of their models are named after animals, and I used to have
a Squirrel, which is the baby of the range. Very happy with it.
They make a variant of this which is approved for the burning of
wood in smoke control areas.

Don't know about the "Miele" aspect, but they're pretty rugged.

Ronald Raygun ) wibbled on Tuesday 04 January
2011 10:06:

Jonathan wrote:

On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

We have a Super Demon Boiler from the Hellfire Combustion Company.It
produces 60,000 BTU/hr on wood and 75,000 BTU/hr on solid fuels. It
has a back boiler and will heat up to 15 (I think) radiators.
Excellent machine.

If someone asks for a recommendation for a small runabout car for
urban commuting and shopping, please bear in mind that it's not
going to help the enquirer much if you tell them how happy you are
with your 4x4 with a tow hook that will take a trailer in which you
can carry 15 weeks' worth of shopping.

So here we have someone asking about stoves in the 5-8kW range,
and you wax lyrical about a stove which gives 60-75 kBTU/h, which
is around 20 kW. Duh.

On that note, I'm happy with my Aga Little Wenlock Classic.

Technically it burns most fuels, except for house coal (too tarry) and
petrocokes (too hot).

But in reality, it is best with anthracite, or better, high quality
manufactured fuels (eggs) as you can't get much wood in it so it needs
refuelling extremely often compared to burning phurnacite where it will burn
flat out for a couple of hours or upto about 10 hours on slumber.

Thus, to the OP, I would recommend the biggest stove that will fit with a
decent sized grate and ashpan so you can get a sensible amount of wood in if
required.

Cheers

Tim
--
Tim Watts

replying to Jonathan, Tony J R wrote:
We also have a Super Demon, but now need spares or a drawing to show how the
right hand hand operates to air inlet flap. Ours has broken and just spins
round and we need to get it fixed. Tony

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/uk-diy...es-679446-.htm

On 03/01/2011 21:19, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

I've got a Morso stove in the living room, marvellous - well built and
seemingly efficient as these things go.

Rob

On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

In message
,
harry writes
On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side
boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Thanks (with one obvious exception) for the replies.

I've been sort of offered a Stovax Sheraton in need of refurbishment,
which on the face of it looks plausible if the price is right. I won't
be using a back boiler. I'm intending to use it as a backup to our
bottled gas central heating boiler (no mains gas out here). Next
winter if I can avoid using the boiler so much, maybe it'll cost me
less than the £400 quid I spent on gas in December just in keeping the
house warm.

Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from? I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a
few tree surgeons. I've considered turning half my garden into an ash
coppice, but from what I've read on the amount of land needed, I'd be
very far from self-sufficiency, though it might make a contribution.

Cheers
Richard

geraldthehamster wrote:
Thanks (with one obvious exception) for the replies.

I've been sort of offered a Stovax Sheraton in need of refurbishment,
which on the face of it looks plausible if the price is right. I won't
be using a back boiler. I'm intending to use it as a backup to our
bottled gas central heating boiler (no mains gas out here). Next
winter if I can avoid using the boiler so much, maybe it'll cost me
less than the £400 quid I spent on gas in December just in keeping the
house warm.


join the club mate. Bottled gas is however bloody expensive.

Buy oil ant much cheaper these days y'know.


Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from? I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a
few tree surgeons. I've considered turning half my garden into an ash
coppice, but from what I've read on the amount of land needed, I'd be
very far from self-sufficiency, though it might make a contribution.

Aye, there's the rub. With what estates do provide wood now running out
on a regular basis, and the smell of woodsmoke a lot more prevalent than
it once was, wood is no longer a cheap fuel.

The average output of land used for biofuel is about 100mW per square
meter. Given you probably need about a KW for a house on average, that's
something like a hectare.



Cheers
Richard

On 4 Jan, 10:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
geraldthehamster wrote:
Thanks (with one obvious exception) for the replies.

I've been sort of offered a Stovax Sheraton in need of refurbishment,
which on the face of it looks plausible if the price is right. I won't
be using a back boiler. I'm intending to use it as a backup to our
bottled gas central heating boiler (no mains gas out here). Next
winter if I can avoid using the boiler so much, maybe it'll cost me
less than the £400 quid I spent on gas in December just in keeping the
house warm.

join the club mate. Bottled gas is however bloody expensive.

Buy oil ant much cheaper these days y'know.

Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from? I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a
few tree surgeons. I've considered turning half my garden into an ash
coppice, but from what I've read on the amount of land needed, I'd be
very far from self-sufficiency, though it might make a contribution.

Aye, there's the rub. With what estates do provide wood now running out
on a regular basis, and the smell of woodsmoke a lot more prevalent than
it once was, wood is no longer a cheap fuel.

The average output of land used for biofuel is about 100mW per square
meter. Given you probably need about a KW for a house on average, that's
something like a hectare.



Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I read somewhere recently, in one forum or other, that you;d need
about 10 acres to be completely self-sufficient for a 3-4 bedroom
house. Fortunately I' not aiming to be self-sufficient. With the space
available I reckon I could grow 100 trees and still have some garden
left, but on (for the sake of argument) 5 year rotation for ash, that
would mean I was only coppicing 20 trees a year - say 100 poles if I
was lucky.

Cheers
Richard

Aye, there's the rub. With what estates do provide wood now running out
on a regular basis, and the smell of woodsmoke a lot more prevalent than
it once was, wood is no longer a cheap fuel.

Now the wood burners have turned all the spare wood into CO2 they want to
burn cheaper stuff like oil and gas to make even more CO2 instead of buying
wood grown to burn.
Typical I'm alright sod everyone else attitude.

geraldthehamster wrote:

Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from?

Local distributors.

I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a few tree surgeons.

Perhaps, but the beauty of multifuel stoves is that they don't just burn
wood. Wood gives a nice pretty effect but has a low specific heat which
means you need to feed the stove quite often. If you want heat with less
fuss, the stuff to burn is one of the manufactured solid fuels, like
Homefire or Phurnacite, then the stove will keep going 24/7 while needing
attention only 2-3 times a day.

On Jan 4, 11:54 am, Ronald Raygun
wrote:
geraldthehamster wrote:
Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from?

Local distributors.

I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a few tree surgeons.

who will be friendlyly charging you £50 odd per dumpy bag ;)

Perhaps, but the beauty of multifuel stoves is that they don't just burn
wood. Wood gives a nice pretty effect but has a low specific heat which
means you need to feed the stove quite often.

If you want heat with less
fuss, the stuff to burn is one of the manufactured solid fuels, like
Homefire or Phurnacite, then the stove will keep going 24/7 while needing
attention only 2-3 times a day.

as you trot in and out with buckets of red hot ashes.... and hoover
the coal dust out of the carpets, and wash your hands every time you
touch it - horiible filthy dusty stuff!

IME we have to feed/tend it *more* when we burn coal based stuff.
This winter we're using coal up before an outhouse gets knocked down -
our usage of fiirelighters must have tripled through 1) extra starting
heat required 2) false starts and 3)unexpected extinguishments
requiring later relighting.

With wood :- 1/2 a firelighter *per day*

1 X Franco Belge (sp) 8kw
1 X EFEL (Foundries Lyonnaise) 10kw

MUCH prefer the latter - better built, better control

Airwash works on both when burning wood, best on latter
(don;t believe you can airwash glass doors when burning coal as needs
bottom fed air thru grate)

Jim K

Ronald Raygun ) wibbled on Tuesday 04 January
2011 11:54:

geraldthehamster wrote:

Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from?

Local distributors.

Anthracite - DJ Davies of Wales, tonne at a time.

Phurnacite - Fergusson of Scotland, tonne

Both are shipped on a pallette of 40 x 25kg or 50 x 20kg bags and works out
rather less all in (50-70 quid) less than the "local" coal merchants.

Only downside is unloading a pallette but even I can do that in an hour and
bags are handy of you don't have a bunker - pile them up all over the place
whereever's out the way.

--
Tim Watts

On Jan 4, 10:17*am, geraldthehamster wrote:
Thanks (with one obvious exception) for the replies.

I've been sort of offered a Stovax Sheraton in need of refurbishment,
which on the face of it looks plausible if the price is right. I won't
be using a back boiler. I'm intending to use it as a backup to our
bottled gas central heating boiler (no mains gas out here). Next
winter if I can avoid using the boiler so much, maybe it'll cost me
less than the £400 quid I spent on gas in December just in keeping the
house warm.

Then there's the question of fuel - where do stove users on the list
get theirs from? I suppose it would be handy to make friends with a
few tree surgeons. I've considered turning half my garden into an ash
coppice, but from what I've read on the amount of land needed, I'd be
very far from self-sufficiency, though it might make a contribution.

Cheers
Richard

I have planted firewood on my ground, it'll be a year or two before
it's ready. I have an estimated four year supply to hand.
Meantime I travel with a bowsaw in the back of my car. I f I see a
fallen branch, it's mine. Builders merchants &c have pallets and
spacers and other scrap timber you can use. Tree surgeons normally cut
up & sell their timber.
As someone else said, it's getting harder to find & more expensive to
buy.

As someone else said, it's getting harder to find & more expensive to
buy.

Our local B&Q has a pile of pallets outside with a sign saying
"Firewood - help yourself"
You could try asking at your local stores.

John

On Tue, 4 Jan 2011 10:07:20 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side
boilers.

Yeah but then you have heat which you can move to other parts of the
house and not just have one room a Death Valley temperatures and the
all the others with ice on the windows. B-)

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
, harry
writes
On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.


I would also agree that the Clearview is the rolls royce of stoves. I'd also
agree they are very expensive, but IMHO, worth it. The Wenlock is also a
good stove.

Tim..

On 5 Jan, 17:58, "Tim.." wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message

...





In message
, harry
writes
On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. *You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. *"Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. *These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.

I would also agree that the Clearview is the rolls royce of stoves. I'd also
agree they are very expensive, but IMHO, worth it. *The Wenlock is also a
good stove.

Tim..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks, and thanks everyone for the information in amost interesting
thread. Does anyone have any experience of Stovax stoves, and the
Sheraton in particular? This is the one I might have available for
refurbishment. Can anyone suggest what would be a fair price to pay
for one in used condition, needing a new top plate, for bricks and
rope? With reasons for your price ;-)

Cheers
Richard

On Wednesday, 5 January 2011 17:58:29 UTC, Tim.. wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
, harry
writes
On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.


I would also agree that the Clearview is the rolls royce of stoves. I'd also
agree they are very expensive, but IMHO, worth it. The Wenlock is also a
good stove.

Tim..

We also have a Clearview and like it. The airwash works. Firelighters
are seldom needed as a few sheets of scrunched up newspaper are usually
enough to light dry logs - even oak.
A local tree surgeon tells me that he is getting a good price for chipped
wood at the moment because there is a shortage of wood for power stations
to burn. I think he mentioned around £55 per tonne, collected from his
storage field.

John

On 21/11/2019 11:12, wrote:
On Wednesday, 5 January 2011 17:58:29 UTC, Tim.. wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
, harry
writes
On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.

A little fresh wood ash on a wet paper towel also works.

I would also agree that the Clearview is the rolls royce of stoves. I'd also
agree they are very expensive, but IMHO, worth it. The Wenlock is also a
good stove.

Tim..

We also have a Clearview and like it. The airwash works. Firelighters
are seldom needed as a few sheets of scrunched up newspaper are usually
enough to light dry logs - even oak.

I have never used firelighters. If you build the fire right it will
always catch from newspaper unless your wood is too damp.

Mine is a Charnwood with a back boiler. You don't get as much heat
directly into the room but it can supply hot water and power the central
heating system too except in the coldest weather. You get a fair bit
more power out of it when burning coal. To keep it going overnight it
isn't a bad idea to put a couple of pieces of dense smokeless fuel in
even when the grate is configured for burning wood. Mine quite often
gets relit from the embers in the late afternoon.

The fire chamber top baffle plate is mildly annoying to get in and out
and the grate rotation can jam if you burn too much stuff with nails in.

A local tree surgeon tells me that he is getting a good price for chipped
wood at the moment because there is a shortage of wood for power stations
to burn. I think he mentioned around £55 per tonne, collected from his
storage field.

Not surprised. They ship a lot of it over from the USA!

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Yes go back to 2011 and see what the difference is :-)
Brian

--
----- --
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please
Note this Signature is meaningless.!
wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, 5 January 2011 17:58:29 UTC, Tim.. wrote:
"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message
,
harry
writes
On Jan 3, 9:19 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Anything from Norway/Sweden. You mostly pay for fancy ironwork, some
of which is quite fragile. "Flamewashing" doesn't work.

If you can, go for a "roomsealed" one, ie draws air from outside
directly into the stove. These avoid drawing cold air into the room.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/external-air-stove.html

Not a recommendation but a couple of points....

Fire bars used for multifuel are more expensive as they are said to need
chrome steel.

Heat output to the room is seriously diminished by back and side
boilers.

We have a stove from Clearview (Shropshire), welded steel, underfloor
draft option and airwash.

In my experience, airwash does work. The glass accumulates a grey finish
over several weeks constant use. This can be readily scrubbed off with
washing up liquid and sponge. Dry, mainly hardwood fuel. Previous
experience with glass doors was black soot requiring pot scouring.


I would also agree that the Clearview is the rolls royce of stoves. I'd
also
agree they are very expensive, but IMHO, worth it. The Wenlock is also a
good stove.

Tim..

We also have a Clearview and like it. The airwash works. Firelighters
are seldom needed as a few sheets of scrunched up newspaper are usually
enough to light dry logs - even oak.
A local tree surgeon tells me that he is getting a good price for chipped
wood at the moment because there is a shortage of wood for power stations
to burn. I think he mentioned around £55 per tonne, collected from his
storage field.

John

On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

A lot will depend on your installation. Do you need a freestanding or
inset stove? What age is your house and what style will match it?
I've had 2 stoves in different houses.
The first was a Clearview. That was great. I used it as my main heat
source and worked it hard. I replaced the usual consumables (door
seal, firebrick liners and a baffle plate) after about 6 years
although some weren't really necessary.
My current stove is a Stovax Riva 55. It''s an inset stove of about
8kW. It needs 2 baffle plates a year and isn't a patch on the
Clearview. I suspect it's built more for style than function.
You say you want 5-8kW. Where do you get this figure? If you look at
the standard calculation used by the majority of suppliers, it simply
uses the room volume to work it out. This ignores insulation levels,
draughts, etc. It also assumes a max achievable temp difference of
only 20C. In other words, that's the best you will get after the
stove's been running for ever. We've been dropping to -10C easily
recently. I installed a stove that was double the calculated room
value. Admittedly it was into a 250 year old house but I never
regretted going up in size. You can always turn it down or do what I
did and open the doors to the rest of the house.

John

On 4 Jan, 11:22, John wrote:
On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:

There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

A lot will depend on your installation. Do you need a freestanding or
inset stove? What age is your house and what style will match it?
I've had 2 stoves in different houses.
The first was a Clearview. That was great. I used it as my main heat
source and worked it hard. I replaced the usual consumables (door
seal, firebrick liners and a baffle plate) after about 6 years
although some weren't really necessary.
My current stove is a Stovax Riva 55. It''s an inset stove of about
8kW. It needs 2 baffle plates a year and isn't a patch on the
Clearview. I suspect it's built more for style than function.
You say you want 5-8kW. Where do you get this figure? If you look at
the standard calculation used by the majority of suppliers, it simply
uses the room volume to work it out. This ignores insulation levels,
draughts, etc. It also assumes a max achievable temp difference of
only 20C. In other words, that's the best you will get after the
stove's been running for ever. We've been dropping to -10C easily
recently. I installed a stove that was double the calculated room
value. Admittedly it was into a 250 year old house but I never
regretted going up in size. You can always turn it down or do what I
did and open the doors to the rest of the house.

John

I calculated the value needed for the room at about 2 1/2 kW, but the
room is open to the hall and has the stairs in it as well, so I want
the heat to heat more than just the room that the stove will be in.

Cheers
Richard

On Jan 3, 9:19*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
There seems to be a lot of variation in price, for the same
kilowattage. Would anyone care to recommend a make, in the 5-8 kW
range? What is the Miele of multifuel stoves?

Cheers
Richard

Another vote for Morso - they are massively better than anything else
we've tried in terms of ease of lighting, ruggedness and reliability.
Clearviews look really good too, but are much more expensive.


A