Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the operation.
Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of by-passing the
electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Check the fuse in your plug or try a different socket

In message ,
the_constructor writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the operation.
Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of by-passing the
electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Check the fuse in your plug or try a different socket

Done that.

regards



--
Tim Lamb

On Wed, 22 Dec 2010 19:37:28 +0000, Tim Lamb
wrote:

Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

It's ALWAYS worth opening any gadget, just to see how it works (or
doesn't in this case!).
All in the spirit of d-i-y.

--
Frank Erskine

On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Assuming it's the common type of box I'm thinking of, prise off the
flap at the bottom, which is held at the sides by clips that will
probably break. Open carefully unless you want the fun of working out
which green wire came from where. Beneath the flap you will find the
wires connect via little tubular sockets to a row of pins. The
connections often come loose despite being held by blobs of
silicone.The mechanism that grips the wires also has a tendency to
slice through them. If no lights at all are on, it's probably the
power wires that are at fault, (or the wallwart's duff). With the pins
exposed you can easily check. Beware of shorting pins together as that
can kill the electronics.

Chris

Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open

Angle Grinder....



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Wed, 22 Dec 2010 19:37:28 +0000, Tim Lamb wrote:

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Checked that all the bulbs are well seated. Checked that all the
bulbs will pass current? Tree light bulbs have a mechanisum that
allows current to flow when the filament fails, this some times
doesn't work.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

Always worth a try.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards

no need if you've got a multimeter


NT

In message
,
writes
On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Assuming it's the common type of box I'm thinking of, prise off the
flap at the bottom, which is held at the sides by clips that will
probably break. Open carefully unless you want the fun of working out
which green wire came from where. Beneath the flap you will find the
wires connect via little tubular sockets to a row of pins. The
connections often come loose despite being held by blobs of
silicone.The mechanism that grips the wires also has a tendency to
slice through them. If no lights at all are on, it's probably the
power wires that are at fault, (or the wallwart's duff). With the pins
exposed you can easily check. Beware of shorting pins together as that
can kill the electronics.

Sounds likely. We have two sets with identical symptoms.

The controller is referred as *light chain control box* and presumably
the manufacturer as YIN YU.

regards
Chris

--
Tim Lamb

In article ,
Owain writes:
On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
..... Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?
I don't know, but a shelf-full of Xmas lights disappeared off the
shelves in one shop three hours after I emailed Trading Standards.
Fuseless 13A plugs.

That's something they are very hot on, rightly so, and it means this
is rarely a problem anymore.
Unfused 13A plugs come out of China and are aimed at the Hong Kong
marketplace. Even though equally illegal there, enforcement hasn't
historically been as rigourous.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In message
,
Tabby writes
On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards

no need if you've got a multimeter

And with my multimeter I..... ?

The bulbs are sealed in position with blobs of silicone and heat shrink
sleeving. The sales blurb claimed several thousand hours life so I
assume they are run under voltage and not intended to be replaced.

regards


NT

--
Tim Lamb

On Dec 23, 9:18*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * Owain writes:

On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb *wrote:
..... Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?
I don't know, but a shelf-full of Xmas lights disappeared off the
shelves in one shop three hours after I emailed Trading Standards.
Fuseless 13A plugs.

That's something they are very hot on, rightly so, and it means this
is rarely a problem anymore.
Unfused 13A plugs come out of China and are aimed at the Hong Kong
marketplace. Even though equally illegal there, enforcement hasn't
historically been as rigourous.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Though ironically the best razor adaptor I have is of HK origin and
unfused. Better-made physically and much better electrical contact
than any of those which I've seen of more orthodox manufacture.
Always used downstream of a 13 amp fuse anyway.

Just try plugging a typical US NEMA 1-15 razor plug (pins made of soft
brass strip doubled over) into a typical 13amp shuttered razor adaptor
-- there's a good chance the blades will buckle before you manage to
get the shutter open.

In article ,
says...

Though ironically the best razor adaptor I have is of HK origin and
unfused. Better-made physically and much better electrical contact
than any of those which I've seen of more orthodox manufacture.
Always used downstream of a 13 amp fuse anyway.

Just try plugging a typical US NEMA 1-15 razor plug (pins made of soft
brass strip doubled over) into a typical 13amp shuttered razor adaptor
-- there's a good chance the blades will buckle before you manage to
get the shutter open.

If you only have the shuttered variety, here is the alternative solution:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...hoto/Mains.jpg

Now I know why those yankee plugs always have holes in the blades ...

and, while we're on the subject of razor adaptors ...

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...oto/Mains2.jpg

--

Terry

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message
,
writes
On Dec 22, 7:37*pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Assuming it's the common type of box I'm thinking of, prise off the
flap at the bottom, which is held at the sides by clips that will
probably break. Open carefully unless you want the fun of working out
which green wire came from where. Beneath the flap you will find the
wires connect via little tubular sockets to a row of pins. The
connections often come loose despite being held by blobs of
silicone.The mechanism that grips the wires also has a tendency to
slice through them. If no lights at all are on, it's probably the
power wires that are at fault, (or the wallwart's duff). With the pins
exposed you can easily check. Beware of shorting pins together as that
can kill the electronics.

Sounds likely. We have two sets with identical symptoms.

The controller is referred as *light chain control box* and presumably
the manufacturer as YIN YU.

OK. Back off.

All connections look sound so it must be the 'lectronics.

180 bulbs at 6V spread across 5 connections. So that's a common and 4
lots of 45?

So which is the common? Ah! I see the requirement and use of the
multimeter:-)

Hmmm.... All 4 circuits are open! I suppose it only takes 4 bulbs to
fail.... I wonder if Wyvale had many returns?

Shame really as the assembly job is very good. The purchasing dept.
spent too little on getting reliable bulbs:-(

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On 23/12/2010 16:15, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message
,
writes
On Dec 22, 7:37 pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Assuming it's the common type of box I'm thinking of, prise off the
flap at the bottom, which is held at the sides by clips that will
probably break. Open carefully unless you want the fun of working out
which green wire came from where. Beneath the flap you will find the
wires connect via little tubular sockets to a row of pins. The
connections often come loose despite being held by blobs of
silicone.The mechanism that grips the wires also has a tendency to
slice through them. If no lights at all are on, it's probably the
power wires that are at fault, (or the wallwart's duff). With the pins
exposed you can easily check. Beware of shorting pins together as that
can kill the electronics.

Sounds likely. We have two sets with identical symptoms.

The controller is referred as *light chain control box* and presumably
the manufacturer as YIN YU.

OK. Back off.

All connections look sound so it must be the 'lectronics.

180 bulbs at 6V spread across 5 connections. So that's a common and 4
lots of 45?

So which is the common? Ah! I see the requirement and use of the
multimeter:-)

Hmmm.... All 4 circuits are open! I suppose it only takes 4 bulbs to
fail.... I wonder if Wyvale had many returns?

Shame really as the assembly job is very good. The purchasing dept.
spent too little on getting reliable bulbs:-(

regards


HI Tim

I spend a few hours earlier this week trying to sort some similar light
strings. One very useful gizmo that (I think) came with a set of lights
is a holder that takes a couple of AA batteries and has two contact
springs at the top that are the same spacing as the bulbs. (I guess you
could use one of the old-fashioned 'bicycle lamp' batteries with the
springy brass contacts, if they still exist).

Using this thing it's a (relatively) simple task to whip the bulbs out
one by one and check them (even though yours may be under-run at 3v /
4.5v they'll still light) - and then swap bulbs until you end up with as
many working sections as possible. Mine were 24v, with ten in a string.

My bulbs were the sort that fail short-circuit - and a couple of runs of
lights had more than one blown bulb - which suggested that they didn't
like the over-voltage caused when one went short...

Decision time for us @ 12th night - we have probably more than ten sets
of lights - dating back many years (some 50+) - and I'm told we're going
to have to bin some of them.... (rather than put them in the 'it'll come
in handy one day' box!)

Adrian

In message , Adrian Brentnall
writes
On 23/12/2010 16:15, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim Lamb
writes
In message
,
writes
On Dec 22, 7:37 pm, Tim Lamb wrote:
Somebody has to ask this question:-)

Multi function filament bulb set. Chinese manufacture (in case you
wondered) fuse OK but no lights. Appear to be well made.

Control box is sealed and has a single pushbutton to select the
operation. Is there any point in forcing the box open in the hope of
by-passing the electronics?

regards
--
Tim Lamb

Assuming it's the common type of box I'm thinking of, prise off the
flap at the bottom, which is held at the sides by clips that will
probably break. Open carefully unless you want the fun of working out
which green wire came from where. Beneath the flap you will find the
wires connect via little tubular sockets to a row of pins. The
connections often come loose despite being held by blobs of
silicone.The mechanism that grips the wires also has a tendency to
slice through them. If no lights at all are on, it's probably the
power wires that are at fault, (or the wallwart's duff). With the pins
exposed you can easily check. Beware of shorting pins together as that
can kill the electronics.

Sounds likely. We have two sets with identical symptoms.

The controller is referred as *light chain control box* and presumably
the manufacturer as YIN YU.

OK. Back off.

All connections look sound so it must be the 'lectronics.

180 bulbs at 6V spread across 5 connections. So that's a common and 4
lots of 45?

So which is the common? Ah! I see the requirement and use of the
multimeter:-)

Hmmm.... All 4 circuits are open! I suppose it only takes 4 bulbs to
fail.... I wonder if Wyvale had many returns?

Shame really as the assembly job is very good. The purchasing dept.
spent too little on getting reliable bulbs:-(

regards


HI Tim

I spend a few hours earlier this week trying to sort some similar light
strings. One very useful gizmo that (I think) came with a set of lights
is a holder that takes a couple of AA batteries and has two contact
springs at the top that are the same spacing as the bulbs. (I guess you
could use one of the old-fashioned 'bicycle lamp' batteries with the
springy brass contacts, if they still exist).

Nice thought. Unfortunately these bulbs are not changeable.

This being d-i-y I have just stripped one out to see how they are
assembled.

Start point is a *pea* bulb with two bare wires. To this they have
soldered the insulated flex. Insulation between the connections appears
to be hot melt glue! Over the top is a short length of clear sleeve
(presumably shrunk on) which traps the bulb and then, overall, is a
length of black sleeve. Cable restraint is achieved by a further sleeve
holding the two flexibles together. So lots of work.

However, snipping off the outer sleeve allowed one of the soldered
connections to fall apart. Clearly contact was only being maintained by
glue and pressure from the sleeve.

I had considered chopping the set into 10 bulb lengths, testing and
re-jointing the sound sections but I now think the dustbin is best.

regards and thanks to all.


--
Tim Lamb