On 12 Oct, 15:56, "Spamlet" wrote:
"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message

...



On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 20:46:25 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:

"Mike Halmarack" wrote in message
. ..
Hi,
I bought a re-badged Draper 370W bench grinder from Wickes a while
ago. It's the 'wet & dry' one with the vertical wet wheel.

Not having yet made a suitable alternative tool rest for the 8" wet
wheel, I bought a Veritas tool rest for use with the 6" dry wheel
after seeing an impressive tool sharpening video, which nudged me in
the dry wheel direction.

Trouble is, even with very light pressure and lots of water cooling on
the side between grinding passes, the chisels and plane irons are
burning far to easily and often.

The wheel I'm using is the original supplied one and quite coarse.
Is ther a more appropriate, cooler running wheel for this job, or
should I find a way of slowing the wheel down?
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

Unless you mean cold chisels, I can't even begin to imagine how you would
be
able to sharpen a chisel or plane blade effectively on a grinding wheel..
Both need accurate and smooth, angled surfaces and square cutting edges..
Sharpen them on proper oil stones with a rolling jig for holding them at
the
correct angle. *They won't overheat and you will do a much better job, and
the tools will last much longer.

S

What I've been trying to solve here isn't really to do with producing
the final cutting edge, which as you point out, should be done on an
oil stone or similar. It's the method of hollow grinding the primary
25 degree bevel on the plane iron before then honing the 30 degree
cutting edge on a stone (along with variations on this method).
--
Regards,
Mike Halmarack

I have a handy Eclipse gadget that is like a little vice with a roller on
the bottom. *It is marked in the inches of overlap you need for the 25 and
30 degree angles. *The only niggle about it is that standard sized oil
stones are a little too short to get a good rolling distance for the longer
blades. *The way to remove material more quickly is to find a coarser stone
for your first cuts. *Typically you only have to make big adjustments once
in a blue moon anyway.

S

Nothing like having a good sharp plane or chisel,,, I have one of
those eclipse sharpen guides
about the place too.... I did not use it much,, in the end sharpened
without any guide..

Oilstone mounted in a box and clamped in a high vice,, just a habit of
getting something like the right angle..
I found a cheap set of chinese wooden handled chisels from the sunday
market beat any of the expesive ones..
What an edge,, these chisels were so easy to sharpen to perfection,,,
I reckon it was something to do with the chinese steel.. Used to
finish off by stropping the burr of on the palm of me hand,, havent
done any woodwork for years now... But i could still go out the shed
and sharpen up,, like riding a bike when you get the habit....