I have a problem with some flashing which has come off, as seen at
http://www.leverton.org/temp/pa090057.jpg . This roof is where a two
storey extension wall joins onto a sloping roof above a single storey
extension. Don't ask me why the previous owners but two did this,
there is much that is illogical or bodged about this house !

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by
a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering. As the pic shows,
since this summer's storms the nearer half of the flashing, the fillet and
indeed certain portions of the render are no longer doing anything useful.
Presumably I'd need to re-do the missing render with some type of cement
mix ? How can I fix the flashing so that it is weatherproof and doesn't
come off again ?

The other problem for me is that this is very awkward to reach. Although
it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in
that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4'
overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4'
further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd
have to use a tower or scaffold. I've no experience of either though so
I don't know how to deal with this sort of overhang, and I'd appreciate
any advice anyone can give.

Thankyou

Nick
--
Serendipity: http://www.leverton.org/blosxom (last update 29th March 2010)
"The Internet, a sort of ersatz counterfeit of real life"
-- Janet Street-Porter, BBC2, 19th March 1996

In article , Nick Leverton
scribeth thus
I have a problem with some flashing which has come off, as seen at
http://www.leverton.org/temp/pa090057.jpg . This roof is where a two
storey extension wall joins onto a sloping roof above a single storey
extension. Don't ask me why the previous owners but two did this,
there is much that is illogical or bodged about this house !

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by
a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering. As the pic shows,
since this summer's storms the nearer half of the flashing, the fillet and
indeed certain portions of the render are no longer doing anything useful.
Presumably I'd need to re-do the missing render with some type of cement
mix ? How can I fix the flashing so that it is weatherproof and doesn't
come off again ?

The other problem for me is that this is very awkward to reach. Although
it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in
that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4'
overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4'
further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd
have to use a tower or scaffold. I've no experience of either though so
I don't know how to deal with this sort of overhang, and I'd appreciate
any advice anyone can give.

Thankyou

Nick

If its that awkward to get to, and your not that happy working up there
perhaps a quote from a roofer might not be that bad an idea?..

After the price of hiring a tower system etc?..
--
Tony Sayer

On 9 Oct 2010 14:56:23 GMT, Nick Leverton wrote:

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by
a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering.

Should be back into a grove in the brick work and either fixed in
place with lead wedges or purpose make clips. The the render bought
down onto te top of the flashing but no further. Also looks as if the
corner of the apron is also split.

it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in
that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4'
overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4'
further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd
have to use a tower or scaffold.

Or a roof ladder if the top can be hooked over the ridge above, it
doesn't look as if that is possible though. So a scaffold of some
sort up and over onto the roof is required. I suspect when you get up
close the higher up section of flashing is only there by the skin of
its teeth. There is certainly a crack in the rendering and a bit
missing right at the top.

The saw tooth pattern in the rendering that has been revealed
indicates that the orginal soakers where cut into the brick work, as
they should be. The simple folded up and overlapped that exists is OK
but not ideal.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 09/10/2010 15:56, Nick Leverton wrote:
I have a problem with some flashing which has come off, as seen at
http://www.leverton.org/temp/pa090057.jpg . This roof is where a two
storey extension wall joins onto a sloping roof above a single storey
extension. Don't ask me why the previous owners but two did this,
there is much that is illogical or bodged about this house !

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by
a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering. As the pic shows,
since this summer's storms the nearer half of the flashing, the fillet and
indeed certain portions of the render are no longer doing anything useful.
Presumably I'd need to re-do the missing render with some type of cement
mix ? How can I fix the flashing so that it is weatherproof and doesn't
come off again ?

The other problem for me is that this is very awkward to reach. Although
it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in
that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4'
overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4'
further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd
have to use a tower or scaffold. I've no experience of either though so
I don't know how to deal with this sort of overhang, and I'd appreciate
any advice anyone can give.

Thankyou

Nick

I think I'd try Gripfil. Can't quite visualise the access problem but,
if the ladder is securely lashed, sofa cushions are handy for moving up
the roof without standing up.

In article , Nick Leverton
writes
I have a problem with some flashing which has come off, as seen at
http://www.leverton.org/temp/pa090057.jpg . This roof is where a two
storey extension wall joins onto a sloping roof above a single storey
extension. Don't ask me why the previous owners but two did this,
there is much that is illogical or bodged about this house !

As far as I recall, the flashing used to be vaguely held in place by
a fillet of mortar along a groove in the rendering. As the pic shows,
since this summer's storms the nearer half of the flashing, the fillet and
indeed certain portions of the render are no longer doing anything useful.
Presumably I'd need to re-do the missing render with some type of cement
mix ? How can I fix the flashing so that it is weatherproof and doesn't
come off again ?

The other problem for me is that this is very awkward to reach. Although
it's not far off the ground, only about 10', the near corner shown in
that pic is about 4' back from the edge of the roof (the roof has a 4'
overhang beyond the building line) and the damaged area extends about 4'
further back from that. I cannot reach it with a ladder, so I guess I'd
have to use a tower or scaffold. I've no experience of either though so
I don't know how to deal with this sort of overhang, and I'd appreciate
any advice anyone can give.

First, access:

I see a shadow from something on the left so I assume that you can't get
a roof ladder in there.

An access tower is avoidable and may not make the situation any better.

You'll need some sort of board to spread the load on the slates (12mm
mdf sheet is cheap and will do fine), then fix battens to that across
the slope with screws from the back. Drill a couple of holes through the
board at the top say 2" in and tie _separate_ lengths of 10mm polyprop
rope through each hole.

Throw rope over roof, arranging it through that gap at the top and
tighten after lifting the spreader board into place. Tie each length
tightly to something immovable (say in through one window, out through
another, or out a door). Do your best to take up any elasticity in the
rope by pre-tensioning.

You now have a stable working platform. It will settle a bit as you
climb onto it but you can live with this.

Second, the repair:

It's really not been done that badly and it wont take much to put it
back in order. Yes, the lead should be wedged in but judicious use of a
combined waterproof adhesive/sealant should work well too with a bit of
wedging to keep it in place while it all sets.

Remove loose mortar, fill slot with chosen goop, apply further goop by
dot and dab (not continuous bead) to sound mortar and existing vertical
lead surfaces then replace lead in slot and dress to shape. Tap wedges
of lead into slot to retain until goop is set.

My chosen goop is currently Plumbers' Gold, expensive but a good
combined waterproof sealant and adhesive, also paintable and available
in clear: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p61679
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:10:02 +0100, fred wrote:

You now have a stable working platform. It will settle a bit as you
climb onto it but you can live with this.

Not a bad idae but I think I'd put some battens across the board to
provide foot and bum holds so you don't slide off.

then replace lead in slot and dress to shape.

Looking at the image I think the lead has ripped along the fold. So
the whole piece may well need replacing. I guess you could bodge it
by taking it off, triming any of the orginal tonge off and refolding
to go into the slot. That is reducing the distance that wind driven
rain has to go before overtoping the soakers though, don't under
estimate the abilty of wind to drive rain up hill.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 18:10:02 +0100, fred wrote:

You now have a stable working platform. It will settle a bit as you
climb onto it but you can live with this.

Not a bad idae but I think I'd put some battens across the board to
provide foot and bum holds so you don't slide off.

" . . . then fix battens to that across the slope with screws from the
back." :-)

then replace lead in slot and dress to shape.

Looking at the image I think the lead has ripped along the fold. So
the whole piece may well need replacing. I guess you could bodge it
by taking it off, triming any of the orginal tonge off and refolding
to go into the slot. That is reducing the distance that wind driven
rain has to go before overtoping the soakers though, don't under
estimate the abilty of wind to drive rain up hill.

Hmmn, could be, yes, new bit required then but not expensive and will
last better if there's a history of wind damage. The tongue could be
bent on the ground for such a simple shape. The goop to the existing
vertical lead should help stop it flapping in future.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 23:27:55 +0100, fred wrote:

... new bit required then but not expensive ...

150mm x 3m code 4 will be something over £20, probably nearer £30.
Not sure that 150mm would be wide enough. 240mm is the next width,
£30 to £40 for 3m. Double those prices in a shed...

The goop to the existing vertical lead should help stop it flapping in
future.

Shouldn't need goop. Having said that if the bottom end where is
turns onto the face of the chimney I might be tempted to put a blob
there to hold it in place, particulary if the prevailing wind is into
that gap.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 10/10/2010 10:11, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 23:27:55 +0100, fred wrote:

... new bit required then but not expensive ...

150mm x 3m code 4 will be something over £20, probably nearer £30.
Not sure that 150mm would be wide enough. 240mm is the next width,
£30 to £40 for 3m. Double those prices in a shed...

The goop to the existing vertical lead should help stop it flapping in
future.

Shouldn't need goop.

Isn't 'gloop' the technical term?
Just wondered... ;-)

On 11/10/10 19:09, Lobster wrote:
On 10/10/2010 10:11, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 23:27:55 +0100, fred wrote:

... new bit required then but not expensive ...

150mm x 3m code 4 will be something over £20, probably nearer £30.
Not sure that 150mm would be wide enough. 240mm is the next width,
£30 to £40 for 3m. Double those prices in a shed...

The goop to the existing vertical lead should help stop it flapping in
future.

Shouldn't need goop.

Isn't 'gloop' the technical term?
Just wondered... ;-)

I went to buy a roll of lead from Leominster Building Supplies
but it was £140, so I didn't!

Hope to hear more about this project and see photos
cos I'm doing similar but simpler things before winter.

[g]

In article , Lobster
writes
On 10/10/2010 10:11, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 9 Oct 2010 23:27:55 +0100, fred wrote:

The goop to the existing vertical lead should help stop it flapping in
future.

Shouldn't need goop.

Isn't 'gloop' the technical term?

It's definitely goop (TM), Gloop was an overweight child in Wonka
chocolate story
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********