The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on 24/7 and I
know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that time I need
advice re. the following.

I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and position it close
to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop the damn thing
blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools boiler's
thermostat etc)

However, said heating element must not be a fire hazard, and need/should
not heat to more than say 100F

Would a transformer 240v to ? (adjustable transformer?) do the trick? What I
mean is, is it a transformer that would be used to reduce a red hot element
down to lower temperatures?

Comments and suggestions appreciated.

Peter

"Peter" wrote in message
...
: The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on
24/7 and I
: know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that
time I need
: advice re. the following.
:
: I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and
position it close
: to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop
the damn thing
: blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools
boiler's
: thermostat etc)
snip what sounds like a recipe for disaster

Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the
boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply
switch the boiler on or off?
--
Regards, Jerry.

"Jerry" wrote in message
...

"Peter" wrote in message
...
: The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on
24/7 and I
: know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that
time I need
: advice re. the following.
:
: I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and
position it close
: to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop
the damn thing
: blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools
boiler's
: thermostat etc)
snip what sounds like a recipe for disaster

Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the
boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply
switch the boiler on or off?
--
Regards, Jerry.


Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)

Peter

"Peter" wrote in message
...
:
snip
:
: Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)
:

So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or
mechanical?

"Jerry" wrote in message
...

"Peter" wrote in message
...
:
snip
:
: Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)
:

So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or
mechanical?

Totally mechanical. Only control is the normal zero to 6 knob pilot starter.

so either I find a timed mechanical way to turn that knob or i kid the
thermo. Please dont misunderstand I'd rather not have to turn down a red hot
element, anything (small) that heats to I'm guessing 100f . for argument's
sake the tiniest electric blanket, I jest but hope u get the idea.

Peter

Jerry wrote:
"Peter" wrote in message
...

snip

Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)


So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or
mechanical?


It is controlled by the sky hooks you mentioned in an earier post.

You are a thick **** Jerry.

--
Adam

"Peter" wrote in message
...

"Jerry" wrote in message
...

"Peter" wrote in message
...
:
snip
:
:
so either I find a timed mechanical way to turn that knob or i kid the
thermo. Please dont misunderstand I'd rather not have to turn down a red
hot element, anything (small) that heats to I'm guessing 100f . for
argument's sake the tiniest electric blanket, I jest but hope u get the
idea.

Peter

Answered my own question. Gonna try using a heat pad.

On Sun, 03 Oct 2010 20:23:42 +0100, Peter wrote:

Answered my own question. Gonna try using a heat pad.

Low voltage halogen lamp (20W or so) pointed at it?

--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to marry one

"John Stumbles" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Oct 2010 20:23:42 +0100, Peter wrote:

Answered my own question. Gonna try using a heat pad.

Low voltage halogen lamp (20W or so) pointed at it?

--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to
marry one

Brilliant. Thanks so much

Peter

On Sun, 3 Oct 2010 20:32:30 +0100, "Peter"
wrote:


"John Stumbles" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Oct 2010 20:23:42 +0100, Peter wrote:

Answered my own question. Gonna try using a heat pad.

Low voltage halogen lamp (20W or so) pointed at it?

--
John Stumbles

I've got nothing against racists - I just wouldn't want my daughter to
marry one

Brilliant. Thanks so much

Peter

Brilliant indeed. I lived happily with one of those for 28 years and
laughed at powercuts in winter.

Never thought to see a solution to the on/off problem.

"Ericp" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 3 Oct 2010 20:32:30 +0100, "Peter"
wrote:


"John Stumbles" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 03 Oct 2010 20:23:42 +0100, Peter wrote:

snip

Brilliant. Thanks so much

Peter

Brilliant indeed. I lived happily with one of those for 28 years and
laughed at powercuts in winter.

Never thought to see a solution to the on/off problem.

The monthly DD is so high I'm loathe to confess. This may at least cut it
by a quarter.

Peter

In article ,
"Peter" writes:

"Jerry" wrote in message
...

"Peter" wrote in message
...
: The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on
24/7 and I
: know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that
time I need
: advice re. the following.
:
: I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and
position it close
: to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop
the damn thing
: blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools
boiler's
: thermostat etc)
snip what sounds like a recipe for disaster

Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the
boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply
switch the boiler on or off?
--
Regards, Jerry.


Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)

Years ago, I had a Drugasar gas wall heater with proportional
thermostatic control. I taped a few resistors onto the thermostat
phile, and drove them from a low power wall wart PSU from
Maplin with a switched output voltage. You need to do some
experimenting to calibrate the effect of the resistors. What
you will find is that you get a fixed amount of temperature
setback per watt. So if you normally set the thermostat for,
say, 20C room temperature, then you might find each 0.1W gives
you 2C setback. Then work out what setback you want at night
(you probably never want completely off), and choose resistor
values to give you this with the wall-wart set to about 2/3rds
max output voltage. If you want to adjust this afterwards,
you can adjust the wall wart voltage up or down a notch.
To use with a timeswitch, remember that the on/off settings
will be reversed. Also, it will come on if there's a power
cut, so never rely on this technique to keep the heater off
in any circumstance where it would be unsafe if it came on
unexpectedly.

Obviously, I've left out much detail, and the issue of
modifying a gas appliance, which is not without risks, and
I have no idea if you are competent to do it safely.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 3 Oct 2010 21:06:41 +0100, "Peter"
wrote:



Brilliant. Thanks so much

Peter

Brilliant indeed. I lived happily with one of those for 28 years and
laughed at powercuts in winter.

Never thought to see a solution to the on/off problem.

The monthly DD is so high I'm loathe to confess. This may at least cut it
by a quarter.

Peter

The hot air was not so bad, it was the water heater strapped to it
that burnt the gas like it was going out of fashion.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Peter" writes:

"Jerry" wrote in message
...

"Peter" wrote in message
...
: The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on
24/7 and I
: know the real answer is to replace the whole system. Until that
time I need
: advice re. the following.
:
: I intend to link a heating element to a plug in timer and
position it close
: to the boiler's thermostat thus being able, at least, to stop
the damn thing
: blasting hot air all night.(timer switches element on, fools
boiler's
: thermostat etc)
snip what sounds like a recipe for disaster

Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the
boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply
switch the boiler on or off?
--
Regards, Jerry.


Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)

Years ago, I had a Drugasar gas wall heater with proportional
thermostatic control. I taped a few resistors onto the thermostat
phile, and drove them from a low power wall wart PSU from
Maplin with a switched output voltage. You need to do some
experimenting to calibrate the effect of the resistors. What
you will find is that you get a fixed amount of temperature
setback per watt. So if you normally set the thermostat for,
say, 20C room temperature, then you might find each 0.1W gives
you 2C setback. Then work out what setback you want at night
(you probably never want completely off), and choose resistor
values to give you this with the wall-wart set to about 2/3rds
max output voltage. If you want to adjust this afterwards,
you can adjust the wall wart voltage up or down a notch.
To use with a timeswitch, remember that the on/off settings
will be reversed. Also, it will come on if there's a power
cut, so never rely on this technique to keep the heater off
in any circumstance where it would be unsafe if it came on
unexpectedly.

Obviously, I've left out much detail, and the issue of
modifying a gas appliance, which is not without risks, and
I have no idea if you are competent to do it safely.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

If I understand you correctly, I should make plain that the boiler
thermostat measures the temperature at the air intake (in the kitchen) and
can be roughly calibrated by turning the ignition knob from 0 through 6.
This therefor doesnt measure temps in any other room, but good draught
proofing, particularly in the kitchen, seems to allow for reasonable
consistancy. So, for the moment, all I wish to achieve, is a simple on/off
as we dont need all night heating.

Peter

Peter wrote:

The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on 24/7

I should make plain that the boiler
thermostat measures the temperature at the air intake (in the kitchen) and
can be roughly calibrated by turning the ignition knob from 0 through 6.
This therefor doesnt measure temps in any other room, but good draught
proofing, particularly in the kitchen, seems to allow for reasonable
consistancy. So, for the moment, all I wish to achieve, is a simple on/off
as we dont need all night heating.

I'm not at all familiar with this type of heater, so this thing
"uncontrollably" pumps hot air all over the house whenever it's chilly
in your kitchen?

Yes, it sounds like fooling it into thinking the kitchen isn't chilly is
the cheapest answer to your immediate question, but if it's that
profligate it'd justify spending hundreds to fix it in a better way, has
the calibration of the "input" knob been better in the past?

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
Peter wrote:

The Heatmaster GWA46 has no room thermostat nor timer so is on 24/7

I should make plain that the boiler
thermostat measures the temperature at the air intake (in the kitchen)
and
can be roughly calibrated by turning the ignition knob from 0 through 6.
This therefor doesnt measure temps in any other room, but good draught
proofing, particularly in the kitchen, seems to allow for reasonable
consistancy. So, for the moment, all I wish to achieve, is a simple
on/off
as we dont need all night heating.

I'm not at all familiar with this type of heater, so this thing
"uncontrollably" pumps hot air all over the house whenever it's chilly in
your kitchen?

Yes

Yes, it sounds like fooling it into thinking the kitchen isn't chilly is
the cheapest answer to your immediate question, but if it's that
profligate it'd justify spending hundreds to fix it in a better way, has
the calibration of the "input" knob been better in the past?

Erm.. Just moved in with MIL who thinks that £200 pm is reasonable. She sets
control knob to 4 and has always been happy with that. Since I obviously
disagree (and am taking over all bills) I wish only to do what normal people
do and switch it off at night.I might add that the control is set to zero
during the summer months (statement of the bleeding obvious) but the £200 is
the normal 12 month DD. Only other gas is a cooker.
As soon as money allows a combi system will be installed.

Peter

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
: Jerry wrote:
: "Peter" wrote in message
: ...
:
: snip
:
: Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)
:
:
: So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or
: mechanical?
:
:
: It is controlled by the sky hooks you mentioned in an earier
post.
:
: You are a thick **** Jerry.
:
: --
: Adam
:
:

Thanks for proving to the world that you are nothing more than a
worthless troll Mr Wadsworth.

"Peter" wrote in message
...
:

snip
: As soon as money allows a combi system will be installed.
:

I wouldn't dismiss keeping warm air heating, whilst a new
combined air-heater/hot-water 'boiler' might be more expencive
than a suitable combi there will/should be considerable savings
on instillation costs to off set. Also if the house was
originally planed for warm air it is some times not always easy
to find suitable locations for radiators, especially if you are
unfortunate in having full height windows.
--
Regards, Jerry.

Peter wrote:

Just moved in with MIL who thinks that £200 pm is reasonable. She sets
control knob to 4 and has always been happy with that. Since I obviously
disagree (and am taking over all bills) I wish only to do what normal people
do and switch it off at night.

Ah so if you turn it down, does it go off at overnight kitchen
temperatures? I thought you meant even on its lowest setting (other
than 0) it kept on blasting out hot air ...

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
Peter wrote:

Just moved in with MIL who thinks that £200 pm is reasonable. She sets
control knob to 4 and has always been happy with that. Since I obviously
disagree (and am taking over all bills) I wish only to do what normal
people
do and switch it off at night.

Ah so if you turn it down, does it go off at overnight kitchen
temperatures? I thought you meant even on its lowest setting (other than
0) it kept on blasting out hot air ...

Yes control knob works, but I dont much like the idea of setting the alarm 1
hour early to play knob games. (sorry couldnt help it)

Peter

Jerry wrote:
"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
Jerry wrote:
"Peter" wrote in message
...

snip

Because the boiler has no electricity supply (I kid u not)


So how is it controlled then, via a battery and circuit or
mechanical?


It is controlled by the sky hooks you mentioned in an earier post.

You are a thick **** Jerry.

--
Adam



Thanks for proving to the world that you are nothing more than a
worthless troll Mr Wadsworth.


No. You have proved that you are are a ****.

These are your words not mine.

"Why can't one place the (suitably rated) time-switch in the
boilers electrical supply feed if all you want to do is simply
switch the boiler on or off?

Regards, Jerry."

You are talking ******** Jerry.

If you know nothing about a subject then please keep your big fat gob shut.


--
Adam

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...

snip further abusive trolling from Mr Wadsworth

How about attempting to help the OP Mr Wadsworth...

"Peter" wrote in message
...

"Andy Burns" wrote in message
o.uk...
Peter wrote:

Just moved in with MIL who thinks that £200 pm is reasonable. She sets
control knob to 4 and has always been happy with that. Since I obviously
disagree (and am taking over all bills) I wish only to do what normal
people
do and switch it off at night.

Ah so if you turn it down, does it go off at overnight kitchen
temperatures? I thought you meant even on its lowest setting (other than
0) it kept on blasting out hot air ...

Yes control knob works, but I dont much like the idea of setting the alarm
1 hour early to play knob games. (sorry couldnt help it)


Put the alarm on the wife's side. I'm sure she would be more obliging?