Hi all

How reliable are these self-cutting tap devices - the ones usually marketed
for adding outside taps?
I really could do to drain the hot water cylinder (partially) to remake an
Essex flange joint that is leaking.
There is a drain cock at the bottom of the cold feed to the tank, but it is
inaccessible and leaks past the stem when in use.
I was considering fitting the self cutting tap thingy in the vertical leg of
the feed, a little above the existing drain. Granted, the tank could not be
totally drained using this new take-off, but it would get me round the
current predicament.

TIA

Phil

"TheScullster" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi all

How reliable are these self-cutting tap devices - the ones usually
marketed for adding outside taps?
I really could do to drain the hot water cylinder (partially) to remake an
Essex flange joint that is leaking.
There is a drain cock at the bottom of the cold feed to the tank, but it
is inaccessible and leaks past the stem when in use.
I was considering fitting the self cutting tap thingy in the vertical leg
of the feed, a little above the existing drain. Granted, the tank could
not be totally drained using this new take-off, but it would get me round
the current predicament.

TIA

Phil


The pipe that is cut into the existing pipe is generally really really
small, so you don't get a great flow from it.

When I needed to drain mine, I just turned on the taps until the pipe work
was empty, then undid the pipe from the top of the cylinder, shoved a hose
pipe in there and siphoned the water out.

If you draw water from the current Essex flange once the cold input is shut
off, you will then have guaranteed empty pipe work above that too, so no
spillages when you disconnect the topmost output of the cylinder.

Toby...

"Toby" wrote

When I needed to drain mine, I just turned on the taps until the pipe work
was empty, then undid the pipe from the top of the cylinder, shoved a hose
pipe in there and siphoned the water out.

If you draw water from the current Essex flange once the cold input is
shut off, you will then have guaranteed empty pipe work above that too, so
no spillages when you disconnect the topmost output of the cylinder.

Toby...

Thanks Toby, but there are take offs from the top take off IYSWIM so this is
too rigid to release and spring out of the way .
The piping away from the Essex flange is difficult to access/connect to,
hence the interest in a self cutting connection.
Good point about the size of the cut hole though.

Phil

On Sep 28, 9:06*am, "TheScullster" wrote:
"Toby" wrote

When I needed to drain mine, I just turned on the taps until the pipe work
was empty, then undid the pipe from the top of the cylinder, shoved a hose
pipe in there and siphoned the water out.

If you draw water from the current Essex flange once the cold input is
shut off, you will then have guaranteed empty pipe work above that too, so
no spillages when you disconnect the topmost output of the cylinder.

Toby...

Thanks Toby, but there are take offs from the top take off IYSWIM so this is
too rigid to release and spring out of the way .
The piping away from the Essex flange is difficult to access/connect to,
hence the interest in a self cutting connection.
Good point about the size of the cut hole though.

Phil

Self cutting taps work fine in my limited experience


NT

"TheScullster" wrote in message
...

"Toby" wrote

When I needed to drain mine, I just turned on the taps until the pipe
work was empty, then undid the pipe from the top of the cylinder, shoved
a hose pipe in there and siphoned the water out.

If you draw water from the current Essex flange once the cold input is
shut off, you will then have guaranteed empty pipe work above that too,
so no spillages when you disconnect the topmost output of the cylinder.

Toby...

Thanks Toby, but there are take offs from the top take off IYSWIM so this
is too rigid to release and spring out of the way .
The piping away from the Essex flange is difficult to access/connect to,
hence the interest in a self cutting connection.
Good point about the size of the cut hole though.

Phil


Fair enough!

Thinking about the current drain cock, if you used this, could you push a
piece of hose over the leaking part as well as the usual place, and keep
this second piece of hose above the top of the tank while it drains?

This way you can drain the lot and then replace the drain valve while you
are at it?

Toby...

"Toby" wrote

Thinking about the current drain cock, if you used this, could you push a
piece of hose over the leaking part as well as the usual place, and keep
this second piece of hose above the top of the tank while it drains?

This way you can drain the lot and then replace the drain valve while you
are at it?

Toby...
The problem I have with using the current drain cock is the fact that water
leaks passed the bit that you need to unscrew.
So until you have water flowing from the appropriate outlet at a reasonable
rate, you also have water flowing from an inappropriate outlet.
The last time I used the drain I vowed not to use it again in case it simply
wouldn't seal again ever.
The drain is the cheapo soldered in elbow type and very inaccessible. So
difficult to drain from and even more difficult to replace.

At the moment, I am inclined to bury the head in the sand on this one.
The leaking Essex flange is only a problem when there is no hot water
heating i.e. when the tank is totally emptied of hot water. This is less
likely as my daughter has left for university on Sunday!
Also I have rigged a drip tray arrangement in case it does leak, to avoid
damp flooring in the airing cupboard.
Maybe do that job when the weather is warming up rather than cooling down -
just hope it holds out OK.

Nice idea about the pipe to above cylinder level though

Phil