Timber garage 6 mtr x 6 mtr by 2.4mtrs high. The apex is 1.0 mtrs high over
the basic box. There are considerable underbuildings and a 4in floor slab
between the 6in block under building.



I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs. Talked to the garage supplier and he
said jack up the garage and build a 1.2 mtr breezeblock wall then bolt the
garage down on to that.



He said they have a structural engineers certificate for the 2.4 mtr timber
box height and do not want to get into going above that height.



So prior to getting a structural engineer to do the calcs what are the
panels thoughts.



My thoughts are.



If I put in a 1.2 mtr high timber sections using the same 100 x 45 members
between the roof and the top of the existing box.



The extra weight of the garage is not significant to the under buildings.



If the roof has a heavy snow load that would put a more stress on the new
section / old section interface and down at the joint to the underbuildings.



The main problem would be the bending effect at the ground on a high wind
day as the wind load is higher due to the extra sail area and the extra load
is at a higher levering point.



I know that I need planning permission if I go above 4.0mtr and I would be
about 4.5mtr.



Has anyone do such a project!

On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:
Timber garage 6 mtr x 6 mtr by 2.4mtrs high. The apex is 1.0 mtrs high over
the basic box. There are considerable underbuildings and a 4in floor slab
between the 6in block under building.

I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs. Talked to the garage supplier and he
said jack up the garage and build a 1.2 mtr breezeblock wall then bolt the
garage down on to that.

He said they have a structural engineers certificate for the 2.4 mtr *timber
box height and do not want to get into going above that height.

So prior to getting a structural engineer to do the calcs what are the
panels thoughts.

My thoughts are.

If I put in a 1.2 mtr high timber sections using the same 100 x 45 members
between the roof and the top of the existing box.

The extra weight of the garage is not significant to the under buildings.

If the roof has a heavy snow load that would put a more stress on the new
section / old section interface and down at the joint to the underbuildings.

The main problem would be the bending effect at the ground on a high wind
day as the wind load is higher due to the extra sail area and the extra load
is at a higher levering point.

I know that I need planning permission if I go above 4.0mtr and I would be
about 4.5mtr.

Has anyone do such a project!

I would forget it and put in a pit instead. Sounds like it ould be
cheaper. Hey, you only need a few bricks & concrete plus bit of
plastic sheet. No hoist to buy. No electrical supply. No planning.

My neighbour has a pit which I have access to. I want a lift as it is useful
for lots of other jobs on cars. Next time you look in a modern car repair
shop, how many of them use a pit!

"harry" wrote in message
...
On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:
I would forget it and put in a pit instead. Sounds like it ould be
cheaper. Hey, you only need a few bricks & concrete plus bit of
plastic sheet. No hoist to buy. No electrical supply. No planning.

That Bloke wrote:

"harry" wrote in message
...
On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:
I would forget it and put in a pit instead. Sounds like it ould be
cheaper. Hey, you only need a few bricks & concrete plus bit of
plastic sheet. No hoist to buy. No electrical supply. No planning.



My neighbour has a pit which I have access to. I want a lift as it is
useful for lots of other jobs on cars. Next time you look in a modern
car repair shop, how many of them use a pit!


Commercially, you can buy a lift and have it installed and signed off
for much less than the labour/materials cost of digging a pit,
installing monitoring equipment and explosion-proof lighting and having
barriers and covers. Consequently, pits are not only relatively
expensive, but deprecated by HSE (unless you're talking HGV workshops,
where the practicalities (and cost/benefits) are different and pits
quite common).

Lifts may be more versatile than pits, but that's not the primary reason
you don't see pits in modern car repair shops.

Even at domestic level, it would probably be cheaper and less hassle to
buy and install a lift which only lifts by a metre or so than it would
be to dig a pit.

Of course, you could do both and have a one metre lift and a one metre
pit to give you standing room under the raised vehicle. ;-)

Strongman tools have a specific scissor lift with a 1m lift limit to be
fitted over a an existing pit. It was modified from another lift designed to
suit a particular client who had a shallow pit and limited headroom in his
garage.

I'm affraid, I have in my mind, being able to walk under the lift without
having a pit in the garage.

"Dave Osborne" wrote in message
...
That Bloke wrote:

Of course, you could do both and have a one metre lift and a one metre pit
to give you standing room under the raised vehicle. ;-)

On 29 Aug, 20:09, "That Bloke" wrote:
My neighbour has a pit which I have access to. I want a lift as it is useful
for lots of other jobs on cars. Next time you look in a modern car repair
shop, how many of them use a pit!

"harry" wrote in message

...
On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:
I would forget it and put in a pit instead. Sounds like it ould be
cheaper. *Hey, you only need a few bricks & concrete plus bit of
plastic sheet. No hoist to buy. No electrical supply. No planning.

A hoist is probably cheaper in a place where there is headroom but to
raise the roof on a building in one piece is just not practical. It
will need to be demolished and replaced. You may be able to recover
some materials.
The down side of a pit is the safety thing of people falling into it.
This is one of the the main reason for hoists

In message
,
harry writes
On 29 Aug, 20:09, "That Bloke" wrote:
My neighbour has a pit which I have access to. I want a lift as it is useful
for lots of other jobs on cars. Next time you look in a modern car repair
shop, how many of them use a pit!

"harry" wrote in message

...
On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:
I would forget it and put in a pit instead. Sounds like it ould be
cheaper. *Hey, you only need a few bricks & concrete plus bit of
plastic sheet. No hoist to buy. No electrical supply. No planning.

A hoist is probably cheaper in a place where there is headroom but to
raise the roof on a building in one piece is just not practical. It
will need to be demolished and replaced. You may be able to recover
some materials.

I have done it! Mind you it was a farm building with a trussed/purlin
roof.
Block walls, concrete floor.

After freeing off the minimal anchor points and strapping the down slope
side to the floor, I used 4 conventional Acro props plus one spare for
when I ran out of thread, to raise one side:-)

Three courses of bricks were laid and the method repeated for the other
side and ends.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

Thanks Tim,

Someone has done something similar.

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
news
Three courses of bricks were laid and the method repeated for the other
side and ends.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

On Aug 30, 2:38 am, "That Bloke" wrote:

I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs.

How about making a 1.1 metre high car-sized bump in the roof?

"That Bloke" wrote in message
o.uk...
Timber garage 6 mtr x 6 mtr by 2.4mtrs high. The apex is 1.0 mtrs high
over the basic box. There are considerable underbuildings and a 4in floor
slab between the 6in block under building.



I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs. Talked to the garage supplier and
he said jack up the garage and build a 1.2 mtr breezeblock wall then bolt
the garage down on to that.



He said they have a structural engineers certificate for the 2.4 mtr
timber box height and do not want to get into going above that height.

snip

Just for clarification, why do you not want to do as the supplier advises?
This would be a robust solution and give you the head room required.
Given that you have solid foundations below, it should not be difficult to
do.

As a win/win, why not install the car lift and then use that to raise the
garage off the ground whilst you build the supporting wall?
It would save messing around with Acro props etc.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

David

I thought jacking the roof and putting in the timber upper extensions could
be completed and bolted within say 6 hours.

Jacking the full garage and building a block wall would have the jacked
garage in the air for two days and if a high wind came up overnight it could
be a bit iffy.

How long would you have to wait before the wall could take the garage weight
and a drill to get the rawl plugs in.

On the other hand why not dismantle the garage first, the only extra cost is
nails and roof felt plus some labour to get the nails and bolts out and in.

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...

"That Bloke" wrote in message
o.uk...
Timber garage 6 mtr x 6 mtr by 2.4mtrs high. The apex is 1.0 mtrs high
over the basic box. There are considerable underbuildings and a 4in floor
slab between the 6in block under building.


Just for clarification, why do you not want to do as the supplier advises?
This would be a robust solution and give you the head room required.
Given that you have solid foundations below, it should not be difficult to
do.

On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:

I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs.

Lifting (or dismantling & re-erecting) the timber structure and
sitting it on blockwork sounds like the sensible option, but isn't
this overall height going to have to go past the planners anyway?

Yes it does need planning permission as it will be over 4m, probably 4.5m.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 29 Aug, 15:38, "That Bloke" wrote:

I want to fit a two post car lift and rather than the present 2.4mts
headroom it should be nearer 3.5 mtrs.

Lifting (or dismantling & re-erecting) the timber structure and
sitting it on blockwork sounds like the sensible option, but isn't
this overall height going to have to go past the planners anyway?