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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Hello,
I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA |
#2
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 15 Aug, 16:19, Fred wrote:
Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA unless small lengths that are *actually* flat/straight, screws/nails (and filler to hide heads) would be my method of choice. Cheers Jim K |
#3
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 08:25:37 -0700 (PDT), Jim K
wrote: unless small lengths that are *actually* flat/straight, screws/nails (and filler to hide heads) would be my method of choice. Thanks. Nails have always been my method but having very sandy browning behind the skirting board has meant I have needed to use big nails to reach the block behind it. It seems crazy having to use three inch nails for skirting board! Then there's the hassle of having to fill over the head and any dents where the hammer missed Then having to sand it before painting. If I have used a cut clasp nail too near the edge, I've had one or two boards split. I've heard a lot of people recommend gluing but never seen it done. Like you, I doubt it would be effective where the walls aren't straight and don't most walls fall into that category? Having read so many replies against glue, I think I will stick with the nailing. Thanks. |
#4
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 15/08/2010 16:19, Fred wrote:
Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? All much the same IME. The solvent based types cure faster but are more difficult to clean off adjoining surfaces Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA |
#5
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 16:37:16 +0100, stuart noble
wrote: All much the same IME. The solvent based types cure faster but are more difficult to clean off adjoining surfaces Thanks. I did wonder whether a solvent type might work faster but when I read two tubes of toolstation's glue screws they both said something along the lines of allow 24 hours to cure. That's a long time to have to hold the boards in place whilst the glue sets. |
#6
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 16/08/2010 09:44, Fred wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 16:37:16 +0100, stuart noble wrote: All much the same IME. The solvent based types cure faster but are more difficult to clean off adjoining surfaces Thanks. I did wonder whether a solvent type might work faster but when I read two tubes of toolstation's glue screws they both said something along the lines of allow 24 hours to cure. That's a long time to have to hold the boards in place whilst the glue sets. I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-) I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it. How often do people take their skirting off? Don't answer that |
#7
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:49:54 +0100, stuart noble
wrote: I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-) I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it. I think I misread the tubes. IIRC they both say allow 48-72 hours for full adhesive effect but having looked more closely at the tube today, it does say on the solvent one that it will work within 10-15 minutes. I can't remember what the solvent free one says as the tube ran out and got thrown away last time. I always thought the solvent version must work faster, otherwise what's the point of having two types? Or is the idea that a solvent version is waterproof? Anyway, the only wall I had straight enough to glue the skirting boards onto was the stud wall I have recently put up; everything else was too curvy! I managed to use 2" nails to hammer the skirting boards onto all but one of the walls. The final wall is an external wall of some sort of breeze block covered in sandy browning. Round nails simply won't hold in the block, so I have to use cut clasp nails. However, even then they don't always hold. The longest ones I could find were 65mm from tool station; perhaps I should look harder for some longer ones? The problem with the cut clasp nails is that they seem to split the boards. After I had turned a lovely new board into something looking like cheese, I decided to try screws! Previously I had thought it would be a lot of hassle to drill a hole, then drill a countersink, then insert a plug, and finally screw but I spotted some 4" frame fixings in the garage and used two of those and whacked them in! It didn't allow for fine adjustment suggested by THM; the board is pulled against the wall but at least the dam thing is finally securely in place! I can't believe it should take a 4" screw to hold some skirting board! Are my walls unusually bad or does everyone else have the same problem? Is there any reason that frame fixings/hammer fixings can't be used, they seem quicker than using separate screws and plugs. Thanks again. |
#8
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Fred wrote:
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:49:54 +0100, stuart noble wrote: I used the TS solvent based one yesterday on some door architrave. It certainly sets hard on your fingers within half an hour :-) I can't see the point of fixings on anything that doesn't need it. I think I misread the tubes. IIRC they both say allow 48-72 hours for full adhesive effect but having looked more closely at the tube today, it does say on the solvent one that it will work within 10-15 minutes. I can't remember what the solvent free one says as the tube ran out and got thrown away last time. I always thought the solvent version must work faster, otherwise what's the point of having two types? Or is the idea that a solvent version is waterproof? I think solvent based was the original formulation, then they realised it would melt some plastics, so a solvent free was introduced. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#9
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"Fred" wrote in message ... On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 10:49:54 +0100, stuart noble wrote: The final wall is an external wall of some sort of breeze block covered in sandy browning. Round nails simply won't hold in the block, so I have to use cut clasp nails. However, even then they don't always hold. The longest ones I could find were 65mm from tool station; perhaps I should look harder for some longer ones? The problem with the cut clasp nails is that they seem to split the boards. After I had turned a lovely new board into something looking like cheese, I decided to try screws! So long as the nails are blunt, they are supposed to crush the wood fibres rather than push them out of the way and split the board. As with the recent post on floor boards, whether this is actually likely to be sufficient safeguard, rather depends on how carefully you have chosen the wood: as noted, the stuff in the sheds tends to be rubbish. With nails you are not just giving the wood a pounding, but also the plaster and the brick work behind it, and as you have found, there is no guarantee that the nails will hold in the wall even then. Screws, on the other hand, are easy, nowadays. Previously I had thought it would be a lot of hassle to drill a hole, then drill a countersink, No, you can buy a pilot with counterink built in cheaply from Screwfix. Then you just put your screws through the board, hold it against the wall; tap each screw with a hammer to mark the wall; put the board down; drill and plug your masonry and whizz whizz you are done. No messy glue, no dents, no splits, easy to remove should you need to do so. Covers available for the screws in a number of colours or simply fill with 'plastic wood'. then insert a plug, and finally screw but I spotted some 4" frame fixings in the garage and used two of those and whacked them in! It didn't allow for fine adjustment suggested by THM; the board is pulled against the wall but at least the dam thing is finally securely in place! I can't believe it should take a 4" screw to hold some skirting board! Are my walls unusually bad or does everyone else have the same problem? Is there any reason that frame fixings/hammer fixings can't be used, they seem quicker than using separate screws and plugs. Hammer fixings are just more expensive and, as the sleeve flares out on top of the board, it would not normally be easy to lift the board again without damage, but as your masonry is so soft it will probably still be easy to lift it with a flat pry bar should you feel the need (the plaster may come with it though. On old walls and plaster, minimum disturbance is sensible, and that may mean not even using the hammer setting on your drill. If the masonry really is powdery you may find it useul to squirt some pva or polyfiller in the hole before you insert the plug. S Thanks again. |
#10
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"Fred" wrote in message ... Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA Now that we have power screw drivers and drills, and plastic rawplugs, by far the easiest way is screws. Don't glue the boards, especially not with the awful chewing gum stuff like 'pink grip/gripfill' etc. If you ever need to rub down the boards for painting, or remove them for getting at floorboards or wiring, a couple of whizzes with the power screwdriver and you are ready for action: with nails and or glue, you are going to damage the board and the wall getting it off, or spend a back breaking exhausting time on hands and knees, working on them while still fixed. Get some nice wood, smooth and varnish it and make it a feature. If your wall is particularly undulating and there are gaps, either run a line of decorator's caulk along the gap, or overlap the wallpaper a little to cover the gap. S |
#11
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 17:21:17 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote: Now that we have power screw drivers and drills, and plastic rawplugs, by far the easiest way is screws. [...] If you ever need to rub down the boards for painting, or remove them for getting at floorboards or wiring, a couple of whizzes with the power screwdriver and you are ready for action: I have heard of people using screws but I thought you countersunk and filled over them, like you would with nails. Done that way, I would think the boards would be harder to remove than ones that were nailed. It sounds as though you leave your screws exposed? I haven't seen that done before. I can imagine brass screws on a dark wood may look nice but I'm not so sure about painted boards. Ours are white and I don't know how I could make screws look pretty against that. I suppose I could cover them with those plastic caps but that wouldn't be ideal. OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though? To add a socket, usually you can drill behind it. Thanks. |
#12
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:54:12 +0100, Fred wrote:
OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though? Not often but with screws just use a metal detector to find 'em under the filler, unscrew, break the caulking along the top edge and lift away. Nails lots of prising, head pulling through board, damage to board from prising... Gripfill, rip off old board, dispose, clean up/repatch damaged wall fit new board... -- Cheers Dave. |
#13
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 16/08/2010 18:35, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:54:12 +0100, Fred wrote: OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though? Not often but Not ever IME |
#14
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 16/08/2010 20:47, stuart noble wrote:
On 16/08/2010 18:35, Dave Liquorice wrote: On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 09:54:12 +0100, Fred wrote: OTOH how often do you need to remove a skirting board though? Not often but Not ever IME Well you might, if you want to do a proper job when fitting laminate (ugh!) or engineered or hardwood flooring. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
#15
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 18:35:11 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote: Not often but with screws just use a metal detector to find 'em under the filler, unscrew, break the caulking along the top edge and lift away I think covering the screws with wooden caps is a good idea, as is using a metal detector and bradawl to remove filler but really do skirting boards need to be removed that often? Roger suggested the installation of a wooden floor but that's a one-off. If you install a new floor once in a blue moon, isn't it easier just to replace the skirting board at that point? I'll see what I've got in the garage. I think nails might be quicker as there is no need to pre drill a hole, as you would need to if using plugs. Thanks again everyone. |
#16
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Fred wrote:
SNIP Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? If you force a skirting board to follow an uneven wall by using nails or screws it doesn't look very good. Better to glue the board where it does touch the wall & fill any gaps with caulk. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#17
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 15/08/2010 17:39, The Medway Handyman wrote:
Fred wrote: SNIP Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? If you force a skirting board to follow an uneven wall by using nails or screws it doesn't look very good. Better to glue the board where it does touch the wall& fill any gaps with caulk. Or with Gripfil |
#18
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On 15/08/2010 16:19, Fred wrote:
Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA I've stuck lots of skirting board with Gripfill - and it's fine. It's particularly good in situations where you want to paint the skirting before fitting - for example to avoid getting paint on new wooden floors. You may still need the occasional screw or nail in places where the wall and board are not the same shape - or you can sometimes hold it in place while the Gripfill cures by jamming with a length of timber running to an opposite wall, particularly in narrow hallways etc. I've recently been using Pinkgrip for another job because I ran out of Gripfill and my local BM only stocks Pinkgrip. My impression - based on not very much experience - is that Pinkgrip isn't as good as Gripfill - particularly when trying to get it flowing again after several days of non-use. -- Cheers, Roger ____________ Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom checked. |
#19
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 21:16:56 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote: I've recently been using Pinkgrip for another job because I ran out of Gripfill and my local BM only stocks Pinkgrip. My impression - based on not very much experience - is that Pinkgrip isn't as good as Gripfill - Thanks. I realised that the claims on the everbuild web site were biased, so I wanted an independent opinion. Thanks again. |
#20
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Fred wrote:
Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA I've tried solvent free pink grip for my skirting and it didn't stick that good, for some reason it wont stick to the plaster here :-( screws fixed it. Solvent based stuff wasn't too hot either but dual thread screws work wonders ! As mentioned, don't force the skirting to follow the wall, it looks awful, fill gaps with ermmm filler. -- Mart |
#21
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"martop" wrote in message ... Fred wrote: Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA I've tried solvent free pink grip for my skirting and it didn't stick that good, for some reason it wont stick to the plaster here :-( screws fixed it. Solvent based stuff wasn't too hot either but dual thread screws work wonders ! As mentioned, don't force the skirting to follow the wall, it looks awful, fill gaps with ermmm filler. -- Mart Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. S |
#22
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 22:17:12 +0100, Spamlet wrote:
Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. Presumably because it's quick. Squidge some goop onto the board shove into place, wait a few minutes, job done. Far quicker than screws and plugs long enough to reach the real wall or if it's a stud wall locating the studs. I use a pair of screws every 4' or so, if the wall is straight enough, otherwise where the skirting and wall meet. -- Cheers Dave. |
#23
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"Dave Liquorice" wrote:
On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 22:17:12 +0100, Spamlet wrote: Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. Presumably because it's quick. Squidge some goop onto the board shove into place, wait a few minutes, job done. Far quicker than screws and plugs long enough to reach the real wall or if it's a stud wall locating the studs. I use a pair of screws every 4' or so, if the wall is straight enough, otherwise where the skirting and wall meet. I used 5mm x 50mm screws for mine with good plugs and it was both pretty easy and vwery efgective. 1 screw every 2-3 ft worked for me. -- Tim Watts |
#24
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"Tim Watts" wrote in message ... "Dave Liquorice" wrote: On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 22:17:12 +0100, Spamlet wrote: Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. Presumably because it's quick. Squidge some goop onto the board shove into place, wait a few minutes, job done. Far quicker than screws and plugs long enough to reach the real wall or if it's a stud wall locating the studs. I use a pair of screws every 4' or so, if the wall is straight enough, otherwise where the skirting and wall meet. I used 5mm x 50mm screws for mine with good plugs and it was both pretty easy and vwery efgective. 1 screw every 2-3 ft worked for me. -- Tim Watts Same he no need for goo at all. I even like to leave the screws neatly lined up and painted a different colour - though now I have a supply of 3" brass ones I might go that way next time. S |
#25
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
Spamlet wrote:
"martop" wrote in message ... Fred wrote: Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA I've tried solvent free pink grip for my skirting and it didn't stick that good, for some reason it wont stick to the plaster here :-( screws fixed it. Solvent based stuff wasn't too hot either but dual thread screws work wonders ! As mentioned, don't force the skirting to follow the wall, it looks awful, fill gaps with ermmm filler. -- Mart Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. Quick & cheap. Another reason - when I did my lounge/diner about 15 years ago I got through about 6 masonry bits because the walls are cement rendered not plastered - common around here in 50's built houses. Didn't have an SDS at the time, right PITA drilling & plugging. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#26
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Fixing skirting boards with pinkgrip
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message news:wA_9o.76791$Tj3.44031@hurricane... Spamlet wrote: "martop" wrote in message ... Fred wrote: Hello, I have always nailed skirting boards up to now. I have tried to use glue before but the boards have come away from the wall, requiring nails to hold them in place whilst the glue dries, which defeats the point of using glue rather than nails! Is there a glue strong and quick enough to use without nails to help it? Some people speak highly of gripfill, is it better than anything else? I was reading the everbuild web site which was promoting its own product: pinkgrip. It claimed that it had better tack than other brands. How true is this? Or are all of the no-more-nails type of thing more or less the same? Or should I be looking to use adhesive foam? Any other hints and tips for securing the skirting boards? TIA I've tried solvent free pink grip for my skirting and it didn't stick that good, for some reason it wont stick to the plaster here :-( screws fixed it. Solvent based stuff wasn't too hot either but dual thread screws work wonders ! As mentioned, don't force the skirting to follow the wall, it looks awful, fill gaps with ermmm filler. -- Mart Still can't imagine why anyone wants or needs to stick skirting to a wall. Quick & cheap. Another reason - when I did my lounge/diner about 15 years ago I got through about 6 masonry bits because the walls are cement rendered not plastered - common around here in 50's built houses. Didn't have an SDS at the time, right PITA drilling & plugging. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman Ah you've got me there. My old house used to just bounce the drills for me too, and I had to use a lump hammer and rawlplug tool and mole grips to make holes. Bit different now: but we didn't have much in the way of glue in those days either... Perhaps that is why the rooms used quarter dowel (Nailed to the concrete floor) instead of skirting... S |
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