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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Son's new garden has a really lovely summerhouse with three triangular
roof panels at each end and front and back squarish panels between them. The roof panels are made of quite posh tongue and groove and between each panel there is a decorative vertical piece of sculpted wood making an attractive and strong looking structure. Inside, there is power and light, all looking very professional in pyro. The roof has no felt or anything and the whole wooden structure has been paonyed at some time with what looks like one of the water based garden shed paints - the type the peels off everywhere I've used it. There have been roof leaks in the recent massive rainfall. Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill |
#2
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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On 31 July, 17:33, Bill wrote:
Son's new garden has a really lovely summerhouse with three triangular roof panels at each end and front and back squarish panels between them. The roof panels are made of quite posh tongue and groove and between each panel there is a decorative vertical piece of sculpted wood making an attractive and strong looking structure. Inside, there is power and light, all looking very professional in pyro. The roof has no felt or anything and the whole wooden structure has been paonyed at some time with what looks like one of the water based garden shed paints - the type the peels off everywhere I've used it. There have been roof leaks in the recent massive rainfall. Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill Silicone sealant? |
#3
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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In message
, harry writes On 31 July, 17:33, Bill wrote: Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill Silicone sealant? It looks as though the previous owner has tried this, but it looks impractical to apply. At the joints between the roof panels, there are all the other structural bits of wood. The water gets in and drips out somewhere else inside, of course I've found a picture of a similar one at http://www.summergardensummerhouses....uses-oct/garde n-summerhouses-8009860.html if it comes out. -- Bill |
#4
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In message , Bill
writes In message , harry writes On 31 July, 17:33, Bill wrote: Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill Silicone sealant? It looks as though the previous owner has tried this, but it looks impractical to apply. At the joints between the roof panels, there are all the other structural bits of wood. The water gets in and drips out somewhere else inside, of course I've found a picture of a similar one at http://www.summergardensummerhouses....uses-oct/garde n-summerhouses-8009860.html if it comes out. OK, try http://tinyurl.com/39k5la6 and see the second of the close up photos from the box at the bottom of the page to see the roof. -- Bill |
#5
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Bill wrote:
OK, try http://tinyurl.com/39k5la6 and see the second of the close up photos from the box at the bottom of the page to see the roof. For anyone that CBA to navigate the site, I presume you mean this one? http://www.summergardensummerhouses.co.uk/images/accessories/0-GAZEBOS-SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL/a0_0-GAZEBOS-SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL.jpg |
#6
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In message , Andy
Burns writes Bill wrote: OK, try http://tinyurl.com/39k5la6 and see the second of the close up photos from the box at the bottom of the page to see the roof. For anyone that CBA to navigate the site, I presume you mean this one? http://www.summergardensummerhouses....ies/0-GAZEBOS- SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL/a0_0-GAZEBOS-SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL.jpg Yes, that's the one. I really must learn how to post a long url like that. I altered the formatting to take in the whole url on my earlier post, but it still came out chopped. -- Bill |
#7
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Bill wrote:
I really must learn how to post a long url like that. I altered the formatting to take in the whole url on my earlier post, but it still came out chopped. Probably works for me because I allow Thunderbird to post using "format=flowed" text, some people object to it, but has its advantages such as not knackering long URLs and seems not to break anything to horrendously ... |
#8
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On 31/07/2010 19:44, Bill wrote:
In message , Andy Burns writes Bill wrote: OK, try http://tinyurl.com/39k5la6 and see the second of the close up photos from the box at the bottom of the page to see the roof. For anyone that CBA to navigate the site, I presume you mean this one? http://www.summergardensummerhouses....ies/0-GAZEBOS- SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL/a0_0-GAZEBOS-SLATTED-ROOF-OCTAGONAL.jpg Yes, that's the one. I really must learn how to post a long url like that. I altered the formatting to take in the whole url on my earlier post, but it still came out chopped. Try putting the url inside here http://www.summergardensummerhouses.co.uk/products/summerhouses-oct/garden-summerhouses-8009860.html -- Regards Camdor. |
#9
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Camdor wrote:
Try putting the url inside here inside here is sufficient. |
#10
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Posted to uk.d-i-y
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![]() "Bill" wrote in message ... Son's new garden has a really lovely summerhouse with three triangular roof panels at each end and front and back squarish panels between them. The roof panels are made of quite posh tongue and groove and between each panel there is a decorative vertical piece of sculpted wood making an attractive and strong looking structure. Inside, there is power and light, all looking very professional in pyro. The roof has no felt or anything and the whole wooden structure has been paonyed at some time with what looks like one of the water based garden shed paints - the type the peels off everywhere I've used it. There have been roof leaks in the recent massive rainfall. Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill Isn't the basic problem going to be movement of the wood with temperature and humidity? OK it *looks* very nice, but I don't think I would try to make a roof like that. Cedar shingles as used in North America work because they have a big overlap, like slates. |
#11
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In message , newshound
writes Isn't the basic problem going to be movement of the wood with temperature and humidity? OK it *looks* very nice, but I don't think I would try to make a roof like that. Cedar shingles as used in North America work because they have a big overlap, like slates. Yes, that's exactly why there is a problem. That and the fact that there are occasional tiny little gaps where you can see daylight through. But most of the water comes through down the joint between the roof pieces rather than through the tongue and groove joints. Also, it does look nice and women are involved in the approvals process. It's also quite mature and came with the house, and we have many problems on many fronts. (The mower is now fine except for the front roller, which I've brought home here to attack with a bigger hammer, and we haven't even started on the Billy Goat hoovery thing) My gut feeling was to try to mould covering pieces to follow the decorative joints using fibreglass and some resin, and then perhaps some sort of tiles over the tongue and groove areas, but this would require skill to do well and to end up looking good. Plus a lot of time. Which is why son and I ended up hoping that some sort of flexible when dry, gloopy paint might do the trick. -- Bill |
#12
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![]() "Bill" wrote in message ... Son's new garden has a really lovely summerhouse with three triangular roof panels at each end and front and back squarish panels between them. The roof panels are made of quite posh tongue and groove and between each panel there is a decorative vertical piece of sculpted wood making an attractive and strong looking structure. Inside, there is power and light, all looking very professional in pyro. The roof has no felt or anything and the whole wooden structure has been paonyed at some time with what looks like one of the water based garden shed paints - the type the peels off everywhere I've used it. There have been roof leaks in the recent massive rainfall. Because of the roof structure and decorative nature, anything like felt would be very difficult, so we were wondering about some sort of heavy duty flexible paint to slop on and hope it would run into the cracks and gaps and seal the roof. It would need to be a more appropriate colour than black or whit and access to the front is OK, but the back is more of a problem because of trees and a wall. What paint or any better ideas? -- Bill I would have thought that decorator's caulk or mastic of a near enough colour would do you before applying the outdoor wood treatment of your preference. S |
#13
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On 1 Aug, 00:58, Bill wrote:
In message , newshound writes Isn't the basic problem going to be movement of the wood with temperature and humidity? OK it *looks* very nice, but I don't think I would try to make a roof like that. Cedar shingles as used in North America work because they have a big overlap, like slates. Yes, that's exactly why there is a problem. That and the fact that there are occasional tiny little gaps where you can see daylight through. But most of the water comes through down the joint between the roof pieces rather than through the tongue and groove joints. Also, it does look nice and women are involved in the approvals process. It's also quite mature and came with the house, and we have many problems on many fronts. (The mower is now fine except for the front roller, which I've brought home here to attack with a bigger hammer, and we haven't even started on the Billy Goat hoovery thing) My gut feeling was to try to mould covering pieces to follow the decorative joints using fibreglass and some resin, and then perhaps some sort of tiles over the tongue and groove areas, but this would require skill to do well and to end up looking good. Plus a lot of time. Which is why son and I ended up hoping that some sort of flexible when dry, gloopy paint might do the trick. -- Bill "Gloops" are available for roof repairs. (Roof repair comound) There are some here but many more are available. http://www.ruberoid.co.uk/pages/rube....aspx?CatID=56 Your local builder's merchant will keep them I expect. Ring round for prices. Do not go in person, you won't get such a good deal. (Thye know you'll be ringing others) |
#14
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![]() "Bill" wrote in message ... In message , newshound writes Isn't the basic problem going to be movement of the wood with temperature and humidity? OK it *looks* very nice, but I don't think I would try to make a roof like that. Cedar shingles as used in North America work because they have a big overlap, like slates. Yes, that's exactly why there is a problem. That and the fact that there are occasional tiny little gaps where you can see daylight through. But most of the water comes through down the joint between the roof pieces rather than through the tongue and groove joints. Also, it does look nice and women are involved in the approvals process. It's also quite mature and came with the house, and we have many problems on many fronts. (The mower is now fine except for the front roller, which I've brought home here to attack with a bigger hammer, and we haven't even started on the Billy Goat hoovery thing) My gut feeling was to try to mould covering pieces to follow the decorative joints using fibreglass and some resin, and then perhaps some sort of tiles over the tongue and groove areas, but this would require skill to do well and to end up looking good. Plus a lot of time. Which is why son and I ended up hoping that some sort of flexible when dry, gloopy paint might do the trick. -- Bill I'd be tempted to investigate the possibility of removing the entire roof, laying a false t&g roof and felting it. Then reconstruct the original roof over the top. I have constructed similar summerhouses/gazebos and I don' think it would be too dificult. I think applying anything on top of the existing roof would be in danger of ruining the entire appearance of the summerhouse. Neil |
#15
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On 31/07/2010 19:44, Bill wrote:
Yes, that's the one. I really must learn how to post a long url like that. You could always use tinyurl http://tinyurl.com/. http://tinyurl.com/33l4gp2 |
#16
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![]() "Slainte" wrote in message ... "Bill" wrote in message ... In message , newshound writes Isn't the basic problem going to be movement of the wood with temperature and humidity? OK it *looks* very nice, but I don't think I would try to make a roof like that. Cedar shingles as used in North America work because they have a big overlap, like slates. Yes, that's exactly why there is a problem. That and the fact that there are occasional tiny little gaps where you can see daylight through. But most of the water comes through down the joint between the roof pieces rather than through the tongue and groove joints. Also, it does look nice and women are involved in the approvals process. It's also quite mature and came with the house, and we have many problems on many fronts. (The mower is now fine except for the front roller, which I've brought home here to attack with a bigger hammer, and we haven't even started on the Billy Goat hoovery thing) My gut feeling was to try to mould covering pieces to follow the decorative joints using fibreglass and some resin, and then perhaps some sort of tiles over the tongue and groove areas, but this would require skill to do well and to end up looking good. Plus a lot of time. Which is why son and I ended up hoping that some sort of flexible when dry, gloopy paint might do the trick. That's sort of the theory of bitumen coatings for old guttering and flat roofs. But it's going to look awful and often doesn't last very long. I suppose the "anti burglar" paint which stays wet and slippery might be an option, but I don't know if it comes in suitable colours. -- Bill I'd be tempted to investigate the possibility of removing the entire roof, laying a false t&g roof and felting it. Then reconstruct the original roof over the top. I have constructed similar summerhouses/gazebos and I don' think it would be too dificult. I think applying anything on top of the existing roof would be in danger of ruining the entire appearance of the summerhouse. Neil I'm with Neil, but you can bet it was designed for ease of putting up, not for ease of taking down. Is there access from underneath? I can think of various ways you might try to seal that side, but then you are eventually going to get rot in the tongues and grooves and other places where water collects. |
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