Reviewing the general advice from all quarters the size of frame fixings is
not always consistent.

I have 8 *120 and 10 * 100 'in stock'.

Trivial, I know, but although I haver started by using the 8 * 120 I note
that others have used 10 * 100.

Just generally worrying if the 8 * 120 are man enough for the job.
They certainly seem preety strong although the heads are a little fragile.

Cheers

Dave R

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

On 30 June, 12:45, "David WE Roberts"
wrote:
Reviewing the general advice from all quarters the size of frame fixings is
not always consistent.

I have 8 *120 and 10 * 100 'in stock'.

Trivial, I know, but although I haver started by using the 8 * 120 I note
that others have used 10 * 100.

Just generally worrying if the 8 * 120 are man enough for the job.
They certainly seem preety strong although the heads are a little fragile.

I used 8 * 100 without any problems. Its not very critical !
If you foam the frames in as well, its all very solid.
Simon.

David WE Roberts
wibbled on Wednesday 30 June 2010 12:45

Reviewing the general advice from all quarters the size of frame fixings
is not always consistent.

I have 8 *120 and 10 * 100 'in stock'.

Trivial, I know, but although I haver started by using the 8 * 120 I note
that others have used 10 * 100.

Just generally worrying if the 8 * 120 are man enough for the job.
They certainly seem preety strong although the heads are a little fragile.

Cheers

Dave R


Think I used 8's last time about 100 or 120mm long - whatever it took to get
well into the brick. It was fine, no problems at all... For a door frame I'd
use 10's or extra 8's spaced a little closer because of the shocks caused by
slamming of the door.

If you foam or mortar the frame in afterwards, the fixing tightens up a lot
anyway (indeed I have heard of newbuild fitters just foaming frames in
without screws - but the last proper pro job I saw he used both).

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...
Reviewing the general advice from all quarters the size of frame fixings
is not always consistent.

I have 8 *120 and 10 * 100 'in stock'.

Trivial, I know, but although I haver started by using the 8 * 120 I note
that others have used 10 * 100.

Just generally worrying if the 8 * 120 are man enough for the job.
They certainly seem preety strong although the heads are a little fragile.


Thanks, guys - going O.K. now once I worked out why I was having trouble
with the fixings.
[See the 'blow out pump' thread]

My recipe for success with 8 * 120 frame fixings is now:

Drill deep
Blow out the hole to remove all debris
Grease the screw to stop it siezing and snapping when it is nearly in.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
David WE Roberts
wibbled on Wednesday 30 June 2010 12:45

Reviewing the general advice from all quarters the size of frame fixings
is not always consistent.

I have 8 *120 and 10 * 100 'in stock'.

Trivial, I know, but although I haver started by using the 8 * 120 I note
that others have used 10 * 100.

Just generally worrying if the 8 * 120 are man enough for the job.
They certainly seem preety strong although the heads are a little
fragile.

Cheers

Dave R


Think I used 8's last time about 100 or 120mm long - whatever it took to
get
well into the brick. It was fine, no problems at all... For a door frame
I'd
use 10's or extra 8's spaced a little closer because of the shocks caused
by
slamming of the door.

If you foam or mortar the frame in afterwards, the fixing tightens up a
lot
anyway (indeed I have heard of newbuild fitters just foaming frames in
without screws - but the last proper pro job I saw he used both).


First frame is now screwed in - about to start on the second.

Foaming around the edges is a real 'point of no return' - up to that point
you can easily unscrew everything and backtrack.
So - any reason not to foam round the frame before fitting the glazing?
Waiting for some bridge packers (which I forgot to order) to turn up so
there may be a slight delay before glazing.

I can't at the moment see why (as the window opens and closes) foaming will
cause any problems but I have acted in haste before....

Cheers

Dave R

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

David WE Roberts
wibbled on Wednesday 30 June 2010 15:32


So - any reason not to foam round the frame before fitting the glazing?
Waiting for some bridge packers (which I forgot to order) to turn up so
there may be a slight delay before glazing.

I glaze first. Partly because I want the glazing done first for security.

Once that's done, I foam (often the next day!). Day later, trim the foam
with a 4" evil blade and tart it up with coloured sealant and/or trim as
required.


I can't at the moment see why (as the window opens and closes) foaming
will cause any problems but I have acted in haste before....

It's not that powerful The glazing being in stiffens the whole frame up
anyway, so do that, make sure you're happy (although unglazing is a PITA so
try to get it right first time). Then foam at your leisure.

HTH


--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.