What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b

On 5/21/2009 11:37 AM justme spake thus:

What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Doubled how? On top of each other (i.e., 4x4) or next to each other?

We need more information.

Right off the top of my head, I wouldn't use deck screws anyhow. Think
carriage bolts.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

justme wrote:
What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

I used #10 3" screws when I built something similar. You could glue it
as well, in which case the screws would be there mainly to clamp it
until the glue dried.

Chris

"justme" wrote in message
...
What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b




Typically the screw should be 1/3 for the thickness of the material to be
attached, 2/3 for the material being attached to. for a 2x4 the thickness
is 1.5" your screw should 4.5".

If you countersink you can reduce the length by equal amounts. Counter sink
3/4" the screw could be 2.25"

On May 21, 11:37*am, "justme" wrote:
What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b

If I'm understanding your design correctly......I would suggest using
2x8's with a taper cut on them.

or a 4x4 with two faces tapered

For a sturdy attachment of the legs to the 2x4 table perimeter, a 2x8
will allow for a much larger over lap than the 3.5" square between a
2x4 leg & the perimeter.

The tapered 4x4 can be screwed into through the perimeter 2x4's.

A horizontal plywood gusset / corner stiffener will go a long way to
strengthening the leg / table connection.


cheers
Bob

On May 21, 10:02*pm, fftt wrote:
On May 21, 11:37*am, "justme" wrote:

What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b

If I'm understanding your design correctly......I would suggest using
2x8's *with a taper cut on them.

or a 4x4 with two faces tapered

For a sturdy attachment of the legs to the 2x4 table perimeter, a 2x8
will allow for a much larger over lap than the 3.5" square between a
2x4 leg & the perimeter.

The tapered 4x4 can be screwed into through the perimeter 2x4's.

A horizontal plywood gusset / *corner stiffener will go a long way to
strengthening the leg / table connection.

cheers
Bob

But to answer your question...I'd use #10 x 3 or 3 1/2" depending on
the final design.

If you use the 4x4 legs I'd suggest using 4" & 3" such that the screws
don't interfere.

cheers
Bob

Thanks, guys.

I think that I will use carriage or through-bolts.

j/b


"justme" wrote in message
...
What sizes of deck screws are there?

What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b

I think that I will use carriage or through-bolts.



What size do I need to attach doubled 2x4 legs to the top perimeter of a
4x8' work table using 2x4s as the perimeter?

Thanks

j/b


FWIW, if you design the legs like a door/window's header support, you
won't have to worry about the fasteners bearing the load.

You may know this already, but...
A header's framing uses a king and jack stud. The jack stud sits under
the header and holds all its weight. (I always think of it like a car
jack.) The king stud continues up the side of the header to the top of
the wall.

In your situation-- legs consisting of two sistered 2x4's-- one could
act as a jack stud, sitting directly under your 2x4 "ribbon" that goes
around the perimeter, supporting all the weight; and the other could
continue up the side of the ribbon to the table top.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"justme" wrote:

Thanks, guys.

I think that I will use carriage or through-bolts.

Personally, I avoid carriage bolts like they were the plague.

Much prefer hex head machine bolts with a fender washer under the head
and nut.

Lew

On 2009-05-22, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Much prefer hex head machine bolts with a fender washer under the head
and nut.

That's what I plan on using for the upright 2x4s (handrail) I'm attaching to
the step stingers on our deck. Zinc 3/8" thru bolts with fender washers. I
want some serious compression on that wood besides the actual fastener shear
strength. I'm a machanical type, so any advice is welcome in this new wood
world.

nb

On 5/22/2009 11:02 AM Lew Hodgett spake thus:

"justme" wrote:

Thanks, guys.

I think that I will use carriage or through-bolts.

Personally, I avoid carriage bolts like they were the plague.

Much prefer hex head machine bolts with a fender washer under the head
and nut.

Just curious, why? Esthetic reasons?

I actually prefer carriage bolts for this type of fastening. The head
bits into the wood, locking the bolt (I usually recess the head with a
shallow counterbore). And of course on the other end where the nut goes,
it doesn't make any difference.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

David Nebenzahl wrote:
I actually prefer carriage bolts for this type of fastening. The head
bits into the wood, locking the bolt (I usually recess the head with a
shallow counterbore). And of course on the other end where the nut goes,
it doesn't make any difference.


On treated lumber, it's usually self-recessing. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

"notbob" wrote:

Zinc 3/8" thru bolts with fender washers.

Do yourself a favor.

Spend the money to go galvanized.

Five (5) years from now, you will be glad you did.

Lew

"David Nebenzahl" wrote:

Just curious, why? Esthetic reasons?

Try to retighten a carriage bolt after a few years.

When the carriage bolt head starts to spin before the bolt is tight,
you'll know why.

Lew

On 5/22/2009 1:09 PM Lew Hodgett spake thus:

"David Nebenzahl" wrote:

Just curious, why? Esthetic reasons?

Try to retighten a carriage bolt after a few years.

When the carriage bolt head starts to spin before the bolt is tight,
you'll know why.

Funny, I've *never* had that problem.

Mind you, I'm talking about stuff that sits indoors. Come to think of
it, I've never even had that problem with the few carriage bolts I've
used outdoors.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

On 2009-05-22, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Spend the money to go galvanized.

Oops.... that's what I meant.

BTW, galvanizing is a zinc coating process.

nb

"David Nebenzahl" wrote:


Funny, I've *never* had that problem.

Mind you, I'm talking about stuff that sits indoors. Come to think
of it, I've never even had that problem with the few carriage bolts
I've used outdoors.

Sounds like a rookie to megrin.

A few more years and you will.

Carriage (coach) bolts are like motorcycle riders, there are two
kinds.

Those that have slipped and those that will.

Lew