Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth angled
upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth angled
upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?

They cut on the downward stroke and are supposed to stop laminate breaking
up as it does with a jigsaw cutting upwards.
They probably reduce the accuracy, etc. but YMMV.
Its preferable to cut from the other side or use a handsaw that cuts on the
down stroke.

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth angled
upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material - might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Tim Watts wrote:
Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material - might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.


I only ever use coarse blades on thicker materials. I think some of the
complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too fine a blade where
it isn't necessary

"stuart noble" wrote in message
news:imIUn.20809$wi5.13259@hurricane...
Tim Watts wrote:
Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with
the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get
one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards!
All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have
teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but
don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to
stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material -
might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a
decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.


I only ever use coarse blades on thicker materials. I think some of
the
complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too fine a blade
where
it isn't necessary

You should aim to have a minimum of three teeth engaged at any time,
so thick material allows a coarser toothed blade that gives bigger
gullets for swarf clearance. Use too thin a blade on thick material
and the gullets clog and the blade just rubs.. Use too coarse a blade
on thin material and the material itself slips into the gullet with
horrible results.

AWEM

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:39:39 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

I think some of the complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too
fine a blade where it isn't necessary

A fine blade won't help but I think a lot is down to very small
sideways pressure on the blade. It's not easy to push just along the
line of the cut whilst having the blade central in the cut and keep
it on line especially freehand...

--
Cheers
Dave.

John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 12:41, PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the
Makita, there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great,
get one out to

Makita B11 and B12 blades are fine on chipboard. Go for the more
coarse one unless you are after a particularly fine finish.

fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All
of the other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have
teeth angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?

These are downcut blades designed to cause less tear out on laminate
finished boards. Pretty crap IME.


Makita do a blade which has the top 3 teeth pointing down & t'others
pointing up - which works a treat. I'd buy some more if I could
remember/find the part number.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
news:IHMUn.85965$Hs4.15223@hurricane...
John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 12:41, PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the
Makita, there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great,
get one out to

Makita B11 and B12 blades are fine on chipboard. Go for the more
coarse one unless you are after a particularly fine finish.

fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All
of the other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have
teeth angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?

These are downcut blades designed to cause less tear out on laminate
finished boards. Pretty crap IME.


Makita do a blade which has the top 3 teeth pointing down & t'others
pointing up - which works a treat. I'd buy some more if I could
remember/find the part number.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


Starratt do a dual cut blade but with more than three teeth at the top.

http://www.starrett.co.uk/shop/jigsaws/dualcut/



michael adams

....

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:46:27 +0100, Bob Minchin wrote:

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth angled
upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Yes, discovered that - started on 2 and cutting was poor, went to switch to
3 then realised that the blade was going the 'wrong' way and found that 0
was best.

Rather than go straight in and get a kick, I started gently on a tongue.
When that seemed OK I carried on.

It does seem to wander a little more than upcutting does, but getting feet
covered in dust rather than face...

BTW, I must break the habit of doing all these things in open-toed trekking
sandals - they need emptying too often.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:39:39 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob

Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material - might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.


I only ever use coarse blades on thicker materials. I think some of the
complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too fine a blade where
it isn't necessary

These are 14 tpi, so perhaps a bit fine for 18mm chipboard?
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 18:35:02 +0100, The Medway Handyman wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
On 24/06/2010 12:41, PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the
Makita, there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great,
get one out to

Makita B11 and B12 blades are fine on chipboard. Go for the more
coarse one unless you are after a particularly fine finish.

fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All
of the other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have
teeth angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?

These are downcut blades designed to cause less tear out on laminate
finished boards. Pretty crap IME.


Makita do a blade which has the top 3 teeth pointing down & t'others
pointing up - which works a treat. I'd buy some more if I could
remember/find the part number.

Phew! Not many useful hits, but here they a

http://www.uk-jigsawblades.co.uk/con...-for-Wood.html

Last item.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.

PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:39:39 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob
Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material - might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.

I only ever use coarse blades on thicker materials. I think some of the
complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too fine a blade where
it isn't necessary

These are 14 tpi, so perhaps a bit fine for 18mm chipboard?

Not sure of the spec, but this is the type I aim for.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32336/...ades-Pack-of-5

Anything described as fast or coarse will do IME. In most of my jigsaw
work the finish is less important than the squareness of cut.

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:25:26 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 13:39:39 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

Tim Watts wrote:
Bob Minchin
wibbled on Thursday 24 June 2010 12:46

PeterC wrote:
Looking through the 15 'free' blades that Axminster sent with the Makita,
there are some that look about right for chipboard. Great, get one out to
fit it, put it in, then notice that the teeth point downwards! All of the
other blades sent (and those I have with the Powercraft) have teeth
angled upwards.
Before I get a faceful of jigsaw, are these blades OK to use?
They will be designed for a good finish on the top surface but don't use
them with pendulum mode!

Bob
Or any other mode...

Last time i tried one of these blades, it was nearly impossible to stop it
throwing the machine back at me. I was cutting thinner material - might be
alright on a worktop where you could put your weight on it.

I think, for a worktop, I'd rather cut from the other side with a decent
jigsaw that could manage to keep the blade perpendicular.

I only ever use coarse blades on thicker materials. I think some of the
complaints about bevelled cuts are due to using too fine a blade where
it isn't necessary

These are 14 tpi, so perhaps a bit fine for 18mm chipboard?

Not sure of the spec, but this is the type I aim for.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/32336/...ades-Pack-of-5

Anything described as fast or coarse will do IME. In most of my jigsaw
work the finish is less important than the squareness of cut.

I perhaps need a wider blade, as I'm having to trim off some odd mm here
and there as the components of the loft are a bit random in places.

I found some Makita B10 - 10tpi - and they seem to just right for 18mm
chipboard, so you are right about 14tpi being too fine.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.