I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation plans.

From what I can see tghe backbox part is just screwed on 2 screws), is
connected to mains, have a turn off valve right there.

Pan 2 screws into chipboard. Rusted in but moveable.

The waste pipe is plastic and not cast iron amen lol.

So is it just a case of draining, removal, and replacing like for like
toilet just newer and nicer. Using some push fit connector for the waste
pipe part. Screw it all up to wall floor and open the mains and pray it
works lol with no leaks.

Never fitted a toilet but had a quick look this morning if its a do-able diy
looks it but those words have failed me miserably many times.

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:26:48 +0100, "Matthew.Ridges"
wibbled:

I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation plans.

From what I can see tghe backbox part is just screwed on 2 screws), is
connected to mains, have a turn off valve right there.

Pan 2 screws into chipboard. Rusted in but moveable.

The waste pipe is plastic and not cast iron amen lol.

So is it just a case of draining, removal, and replacing like for like
toilet just newer and nicer. Using some push fit connector for the waste
pipe part. Screw it all up to wall floor and open the mains and pray it
works lol with no leaks.

Never fitted a toilet but had a quick look this morning if its a do-able
diy looks it but those words have failed me miserably many times.

Without a picture of your drain arrangement it is hard to comment, but if
you can choose a loo with a spigot at the right height so that one
particular type of pan connector works well rather than being 1" off,
life is easier. Getting a truely like for like bog would be easiest -
depends on ho old your last one is (spigot sizes changes, spigot
positions are all over the place etc). I'd suggest a good solid measuring
session then wander down the shop and see if anything looks like it has
similar dimensions - assume nothing!

Watch out for how far back the floor of the loo projects back in case
that fouls something.

Have some plumbing parts handy - especially for a close coupled/low
cistern - you're likely to have to adjust the inlet feed pipe and the
overflow.

Other than that, bleach in the old cistern and down the bog. Repeat. That
sanitises things a bit. Have a rag ready to stuff down the drain while
you're fiddly - the sewer gasses can get smelly after a while.

Have access to another loo? If not, I suggest asking a neighbour just in
case sod's law makes it go wrong after you pull the old one out.

But with proper preparation it's not too hard.

HTH

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Managers, politicians and environmentalists: Nature's carbon buffer.

Matthew.Ridges wrote:
I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation
plans.

Wot Tim said. Biggest tip I can give you is to buy a flexible tap connector
for the water inlet, saves loads of fiddle and won't cross thread.

They look like this
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13143/...15mm-x-x-300mm


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 16 June, 19:18, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Matthew.Ridges wrote:
I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation
plans.

Wot Tim said. *Biggest tip I can give you is to buy a flexible tap connector
for the water inlet, saves loads of fiddle and won't cross thread.

They look like thishttp://www.screwfix.com/prods/13143/Plumbing/Flexible-Hoses/Flexible-...

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk

I've done a couple of pans over the years and just laid them on white
silicone. Marked round the pan, a ring of silicone and just lay it on
top - screws not needed; this was the easy option for tiled floors.
There's never been a bother and removal will just be a thin knife
under the pan.
Rob

Rob

wrote:
On 16 Jun,
"The Medway Handyman" wrote:

Matthew.Ridges wrote:
I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation
plans.

Wot Tim said. Biggest tip I can give you is to buy a flexible tap
connector for the water inlet, saves loads of fiddle and won't cross
thread.

They look like this
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13143/...15mm-x-x-300mm


Neater way is to use plastic push fit for the final run, more give
than copper, and /much/ neater than the flexibles. The
proffessional???? fitters of my sister's new bathroom used flexibles,
it looks a mess!

IMO push fit looks pants and has to be lined up properly or it weeps.
Flexibles are they way forward. YMMV.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:51:58 -0700 (PDT), robgraham wrote:


I've done a couple of pans over the years and just laid them on white
silicone. Marked round the pan, a ring of silicone and just lay it on
top - screws not needed; this was the easy option for tiled floors.
There's never been a bother and removal will just be a thin knife
under the pan.

Then a day cleaning up the old silicone on the floor and base of the
pan so you can refit it... Or if chnaging the pan cleaning up the
floor where the old silcone is not covered by the foot print of the
new pan.

--
Cheers
Dave.