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Default Boiler move

In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing cupboard
to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and take a
cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a cable
to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


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In article ,
"John" writes:
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing cupboard
to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler


That's the regulatory requirement. (There are other options, but
they aren't worth considering.)

You could fit a socket, which might be useful during installation
too, e.g. to plug a drill in. If the boiler is to be plugged into
it afterwards, it should be an unswitched socket (so that isolation
is by unplugging, and not by using a switch on the socket).

but do I also need a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


Seems like a good idea, particularly if your loft is not as easily
accessible by everyone in the house as any of the normal rooms.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"John" writes:
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing cupboard
to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.


You could fit a socket, which might be useful during installation
too, e.g. to plug a drill in. If the boiler is to be plugged into
it afterwards, it should be an unswitched socket (so that isolation
is by unplugging, and not by using a switch on the socket).


Why would that be necessary (ie having the socket unswitched), given
that using a switched FCU (ie, not unpluggable) would be the norm here?

David
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"Lobster" wrote in message
...
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"John" writes:
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.


You could fit a socket, which might be useful during installation
too, e.g. to plug a drill in. If the boiler is to be plugged into
it afterwards, it should be an unswitched socket (so that isolation
is by unplugging, and not by using a switch on the socket).


Why would that be necessary (ie having the socket unswitched), given that
using a switched FCU (ie, not unpluggable) would be the norm here?

David


A switched FCU is a double pole switch (switches live and neutral). Not all
switched sockets are double pole switched (the cheap ones only switch the
live). Using an unswitched socket means that the boiler must be unplugged to
kill the power and therefore the neutral is disconnected when the plug is
removed.

Adam


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"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing cupboard
to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and take
a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a
cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator
there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick
isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the
hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed
shoot-down type.




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Default Boiler move


"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and take
a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a
cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator
there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick
isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the
hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed
shoot-down type.



Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned by
fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a different
fitter.


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Default Boiler move

John wrote:
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box
and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next
to the boiler? or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and
run a cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to
the boiler? or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet
box and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet
next to the boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also
need a convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused
isolator there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a
quick isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over
the hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a
fixed shoot-down type.



Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned
by fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a
different fitter.


No, a fixed shoot-down ladder is definitely _not_ a real requirement. We've
always had just a short "normal" type ladder in the spare bedroom (more just
a junk room really) for access into the loft. The CORGI guy who installed
the boiler originally happily used that, as has the Alpha engineer when
doing his annual service.

Having said that though, we've just completely refurbished the house and did
not want a ladder in the newly-decorated spare room (that now has a bed in
it instead of junk) so we bought a Telesteps Telescopic ladder from
http://www.ladders-999.co.uk/loft-la...t-ladders.html
and it's truly brilliant. Fitted in about 10 to 15 minutes and it just sort
of 'hangs' in the opening, taking no room up on the floor of the loft at
all. Highly recommended )


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In message , John
writes

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and take
a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a
cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?


You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator
there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick
isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the
hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed
shoot-down type.



Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned by
fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a different
fitter.

It's prolly an advisory in one of the brochures he read

--
geoff
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..

Having said that though, we've just completely refurbished the house and
did not want a ladder in the newly-decorated spare room (that now has a
bed in it instead of junk) so we bought a Telesteps Telescopic ladder from
http://www.ladders-999.co.uk/loft-la...t-ladders.html
and it's truly brilliant. Fitted in about 10 to 15 minutes and it just
sort of 'hangs' in the opening, taking no room up on the floor of the loft
at all. Highly recommended )


That looks good - biggest job will be adapting the hatch to hinge down. Not
against fitting one - just not got around to it and have been happy with my
step ladder.


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"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , John
writes

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take
a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a
cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the
boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box
and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need
a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?

You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator
there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick
isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the
hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed
shoot-down type.



Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned by
fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a different
fitter.

It's prolly an advisory in one of the brochures he read

--
geoff


Or he has started selling loft ladders.

Adam




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"John" wrote in message
...
John wrote:
"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box
and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next
to the boiler? or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and
run a cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to
the boiler? or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet
box and take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet
next to the boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also
need a convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?

You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused
isolator there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a
quick isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over
the hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a
fixed shoot-down type.



Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned
by fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a
different fitter.


No, a fixed shoot-down ladder is definitely _not_ a real requirement.


You cannot have a portable ladder.

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"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , John
writes

"Doctor Drivel" wrote in message
...

"John" wrote in message
...
In readiness for a replacement combi and a relocation from airing
cupboard to loft immediately above, I am going to do the wiring.

Currently there is a switched spur cable outlet next to the boiler.

Should I:

a) Use a blanking plate in place of the switched spur outlet box and
take
a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or
b) Change the switched spur cable outlet for a switched spur and run a
cable to the boiler position and have a cable outlet next to the
boiler?

or

c) Use a double pole switch in place of the switched spur outlet box
and
take a cable into the loft and fit a switched spur outlet next to the
boiler?

or

d) Something else?


I guess I need local isolation next to the boiler - but do I also need
a
convenient point of isolation (in the airing cupboard)?

You can run a cable to the boiler and have a double pole fused isolator
there. That is all you need.

But, I would have a unufused switch in the airing cupboard for a quick
isolation in an emergency, without having to use a ladder.

You need a light over the boiler with a proper switch and light over the
hatch and boarded from hatch to boiler. The ladder must be a fixed
shoot-down type.


Is a fixed shoot down ladder a real requirement? It wasn't mentioned by
fitter - and a neighbour doesn't have one either and he used a different
fitter.

It's prolly an advisory in one of the brochures he read


Fantastic Maxie. Fantastic. Did you see your turned down wellies in a
brochure? What a man!

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