Moved into a house in February which still has a functional outside loo.
But the water fittings in loo were weaping somewhere.

Tried to turn off water in the loo, but the stop tap was seized for hand
turning.

I left it until I had some time to deal with.
Tried turning it with a stilson and the drip turned into a woosh from
the joint above.

In the end I just opened up the joint and there was no olive, but plenty
of old PTFE. I stuck in a spare olive I had tightened down and at least
the leak is now sorted.

Plan was to turn off water, cut pipe and fit garden tap, and remove loo
and turn into shed.

But I have one old broken off stop stap on the old lead pipe.
One seized stop tap on the lead to copper adaptor.

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now behind
the washing machine.

Apart from it being a wet and messy(physically and aesthetically) way,
is there any reason why I can't cut off the pipe above the seized stop
tap, get wet while it gushes again and fit a 15mm push on stop tap or
isolator valve to the stub of pipe?

I can then turn it off and remove the rest of the system at my leisure
and stick on the garden tap once I have the room.

Thoughts? Can't afford a plumber but don't fancy messing with the old
soft lead piping that looks to be very short at the ground level, and a
push on stop tap would do the job.

--
Carl Robson
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Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now behind
the washing machine.

I'd make the indoor stop tap easier to access - one day you'll be glad
you did.

In article ac87fc78-c802-4e62-b0cf-
, says...

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now behind
the washing machine.

I'd make the indoor stop tap easier to access - one day you'll be glad
you did.

That I also plan to do, but I don't mind flooding the toilet/yard while
doing the quick fix, the other will take time and planning and maybe
even the help of a plumber.

--
Carl Robson
Get cashback on your purchases
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Hmmm - I'm very iffy about doing something non-reversible like slicing
off the only functioning stop tap. OTOH you probably have the option
of hammering the lead pipe flat if it all goes horribly wrong.

Have you considered a pipe freezing kit?

On Sun, 16 May 2010 10:13:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the
whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now
behind
the washing machine.

I'd make the indoor stop tap easier to access - one day you'll be glad
you did.

Agreed but what about the street stop tap? With an inaccesable indoor
stop tap I'd make sure the street one was functional and accessable,
might need to buy a key. If you find that it is non-functional it's
the water boards responsibilty to fix, I wouldn't go forcing and
breaking it though.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article 367ec836-02a9-4500-80c6-6643f802abf3
@m4g2000vbl.googlegroups.com, says...

Hmmm - I'm very iffy about doing something non-reversible like slicing
off the only functioning stop tap. OTOH you probably have the option
of hammering the lead pipe flat if it all goes horribly wrong.

Have you considered a pipe freezing kit?

Neither of the existing stop taps function, the one on the lead has the
tap snapped off, the one on the adaptor/copper is totally siezed but the
upper one has a 15mm compression fitting hence I was able add an olive
to stop the leak.

--
Carl Robson
Get cashback on your purchases
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In article o.uk,
says...

On Sun, 16 May 2010 10:13:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the
whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now
behind
the washing machine.

I'd make the indoor stop tap easier to access - one day you'll be glad
you did.

Agreed but what about the street stop tap? With an inaccesable indoor
stop tap I'd make sure the street one was functional and accessable,
might need to buy a key. If you find that it is non-functional it's
the water boards responsibilty to fix, I wouldn't go forcing and
breaking it though.

I could do with finding where that is, because I have no idea.
It maybe close to or on my property though as the house hold the land
tenancies for the a lot of the other properties on the row.

I just hope it isn't actually within the property boundary because both
the front and back yards are shale covered and could be tricky to find
it.

--
Carl Robson
Get cashback on your purchases
Topcashback http://www.TopCashBack.co.uk/skraggy_uk/ref/index.htm
Greasypalm http://www.greasypalm.co.uk/r/?l=1006553

On May 16, 5:57*pm, Elder wrote:
Moved into a house in February which still has a functional outside loo.
But the water fittings in loo were weaping somewhere.

Tried to turn off water in the loo, but the stop tap was seized for hand
turning.

I left it until I had some time to deal with.
Tried turning it with a stilson and the drip turned into a woosh from
the joint above.

In the end I just opened up the joint and there was no olive, but plenty
of old PTFE. I stuck in a spare olive I had tightened down and at least
the leak is now sorted.

Plan was to turn off water, cut pipe and fit garden tap, and remove loo
and turn into shed.

But I have one old broken off stop stap on the old lead pipe.
One seized stop tap on the lead to copper adaptor.

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now behind
the washing machine.

Apart from it being a wet and messy(physically and aesthetically) way,
is there any reason why I can't cut off the pipe above the seized stop
tap, get wet while it gushes again and fit a 15mm push on stop tap or
isolator valve to the stub of pipe?

I can then turn it off and remove the rest of the system at my leisure
and stick on the garden tap once I have the room.

Thoughts? Can't afford a plumber but don't fancy messing with the old
soft lead piping that looks to be very short at the ground level, and a
push on stop tap would do the job.

If you are gonig to work live on it, you could at least squash the
pipe on the feed side of your cut first, would make life a lot easier.


NT

On Sun, 16 May 2010 19:43:12 +0100, Elder wrote:

I could do with finding where that is, because I have no idea.

Call the water board and ask them to come and find it.

It maybe close to or on my property though as the house hold the land
tenancies for the a lot of the other properties on the row.

It should be at or very near the point where the incoming main
crosses the boundary, normally on the "public" side". But they can be
almost anywhere, ours is 20 yds down the road buried in the verge.
There is small concrete post with WATER more or less marking it's
position but that'll be hidden by the long summer grass soon...

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Elder" wrote in message
t...
In article o.uk,
says...

On Sun, 16 May 2010 10:13:47 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the
whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now
behind
the washing machine.

I'd make the indoor stop tap easier to access - one day you'll be glad
you did.

Agreed but what about the street stop tap? With an inaccesable indoor
stop tap I'd make sure the street one was functional and accessable,
might need to buy a key. If you find that it is non-functional it's
the water boards responsibilty to fix, I wouldn't go forcing and
breaking it though.

I could do with finding where that is, because I have no idea.
It maybe close to or on my property though as the house hold the land
tenancies for the a lot of the other properties on the row.

I just hope it isn't actually within the property boundary because both
the front and back yards are shale covered and could be tricky to find
it.

--
Carl Robson

Ask the water board to put you on a meter. They will then find the stopcock
in the road, and replace it with a nice new one that is easy to turn. And
you might save some money too.

Invariably, if you find the valve yourself it will be at the bottom of a
hole that the ants have filled right to the top with the sand the nearby
pavement was laid on (and after you've cleared it out, they can fill it back
up gain pretty quickly too!)

The 'proper' t-bar tool is pretty cheap and indispensable when your indoor
stopcock snaps off after years of abuse. (One thing: do leave the bar
exactly where you know it is, and not in a garage to which you can't find
the key in a hurry, in the dark when your bathroom and kitchen are rapidly
filling up!) You can also make a tap turner from a piece of pipe with a
slot cut out of the end - and a shorter one for reaching that tap behind the
washing machine. Tip: when replacing such taps, make sure you point them in
a direction you can access in a straight line!)

S

Elder wrote:


Apart from it being a wet and messy(physically and aesthetically) way,
is there any reason why I can't cut off the pipe above the seized stop
tap, get wet while it gushes again and fit a 15mm push on stop tap or
isolator valve to the stub of pipe?


Ive done this on one occasion. (workled on live full pressure flows)
Before the house was in any way finished! And with live hosepipes 100
yards down the garden...

You get VERY wet, but it works

"Elder" wrote in message
t...

Moved into a house in February which still has a functional outside
loo.
But the water fittings in loo were weaping somewhere.

Tried to turn off water in the loo, but the stop tap was seized for
hand
turning.

I left it until I had some time to deal with.
Tried turning it with a stilson and the drip turned into a woosh
from
the joint above.

In the end I just opened up the joint and there was no olive, but
plenty
of old PTFE. I stuck in a spare olive I had tightened down and at
least
the leak is now sorted.

Plan was to turn off water, cut pipe and fit garden tap, and remove
loo
and turn into shed.

But I have one old broken off stop stap on the old lead pipe.
One seized stop tap on the lead to copper adaptor.

Can't see any other way to turn off the water except possible the
whole
house supply and unfortunatly the house indoor stop tap is now
behind
the washing machine.

Apart from it being a wet and messy(physically and aesthetically)
way,
is there any reason why I can't cut off the pipe above the seized
stop
tap, get wet while it gushes again and fit a 15mm push on stop tap
or
isolator valve to the stub of pipe?

I can then turn it off and remove the rest of the system at my
leisure
and stick on the garden tap once I have the room.

Thoughts? Can't afford a plumber but don't fancy messing with the
old
soft lead piping that looks to be very short at the ground level,
and a
push on stop tap would do the job.

--
Carl Robson
Get cashback on your purchases
Topcashback http://www.TopCashBack.co.uk/skraggy_uk/ref/index.htm
Greasypalm http://www.greasypalm.co.uk/r/?l=1006553

Borrow a pipe freezer - makes life so much easier - reminds me must
recover mine from eldest son!

AWEM

Carl - I'd think twice about removing the outside loo. If you want to turn
it into a storage area just box it in with a removable housing.

I've re-jigged mine so it is on a separate feed (as much as possible) from
the rest of the mains water to the house, so I can cut that off for
maintenance etc, but still have a working loo and hand basin. They're also
handy when gardening - or having a barby. ;-)

--
*I got a sweater for Christmas. I really wanted a screamer or a moaner*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On May 17, 10:18*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
Carl - I'd think twice about removing the outside loo. If you want to turn
it into a storage area just box it in with a removable housing.

I've re-jigged mine so it is on a separate feed (as much as possible) from
the rest of the mains water to the house, so I can cut that off for
maintenance etc, but still have a working loo and hand basin. They're also
handy when gardening - or having a barby. ;-)

--
*I got a sweater for Christmas. I really wanted a screamer or a moaner*

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.

If it was in anyway serviceable I would.
No sink, huge but basic porcelain pan with no seat/lid that looks like
a modern one wouldn't fit (seat would fall inside), and high level
iron cistern that flushes rusty water and doesn't return to closed
very well. This is original turn of the last century I think, as all
the houses have them

Pan is so big that almost all the room is taken in the space. It
basically has room to get inside and close the door. Taking it all out
would double usable space.

Also, the building also contains a coal hole, by removing the cistern
and putting in a lintel, I could have the coal hole and toilet
combined and nearly double the size again.

In article
,
Elder wrote:
On May 17, 10:18 am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
Carl - I'd think twice about removing the outside loo. If you want to
turn it into a storage area just box it in with a removable housing.

I've re-jigged mine so it is on a separate feed (as much as possible)
from the rest of the mains water to the house, so I can cut that off
for maintenance etc, but still have a working loo and hand basin.
They're also handy when gardening - or having a barby. ;-)


If it was in anyway serviceable I would.
No sink, huge but basic porcelain pan with no seat/lid that looks like
a modern one wouldn't fit (seat would fall inside), and high level
iron cistern that flushes rusty water and doesn't return to closed
very well. This is original turn of the last century I think, as all
the houses have them

Sounds like mine - original two piece bowl and Thomas T header. Now
lovingly restored. Original feature - becomes worth having after everyone
has got rid. If the seat really is larger than a modern one a local
architectural salvage place might help.

Pan is so big that almost all the room is taken in the space. It
basically has room to get inside and close the door. Taking it all out
would double usable space.

I suppose it depends on what you want to store if the actual floor area is
important. Mine takes up about half the floor area - so still room to keep
garden tools in. Unless you have a motor mower. ;-)

Also, the building also contains a coal hole, by removing the cistern
and putting in a lintel, I could have the coal hole and toilet
combined and nearly double the size again.

I find the more storage I have, the more 'junk' I keep. ;-)

--
*'Progress' and 'Change' are not synonyms.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 16 May, 19:05, " wrote:

Have you considered a pipe freezing kit?

Be wary of those on old lead! Nasty habit of splitting the pipe.
Useful, but be prepared.

DAMHIKT

On Mon, 17 May 2010 10:18:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I've re-jigged mine so it is on a separate feed (as much as possible) from
the rest of the mains water to the house, so I can cut that off for
maintenance etc, but still have a working loo and hand basin. They're also
handy when gardening - or having a barby. ;-)

I read that as:- "or having a baby".

--
Frank Erskine

On May 17, 2:44*pm, Frank Erskine
wrote:
On Mon, 17 May 2010 10:18:45 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"

wrote:
I've re-jigged mine so it is on a separate feed (as much as possible) from
the rest of the mains water to the house, so I can cut that off for
maintenance etc, but still have a working loo and hand basin. They're also
handy when gardening - or having a barby. ;-)

I read that as:- "or having a baby".


me too.

R