Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

mmm hope this isn't a "sparks for the grinder" job..... heregoes:-

last couple of sinks I recall doing the tails etc came out *in front*
of the backing boards whiich were (had to be) cut to get the H&C
supplies near enough.

Presumably the sink waste has to go out through a hole in the board
too?

also altho it's "all on show" leaks are easy to spot :)

(and who looks that close anyway once it's full of bleach bottles and
detergents etc?)

Cheers
JimK

On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at *both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

Your tap connections are unlikely to be behind the back board of the
cupboard unless it's a very deep sink and/or a very shallow cupboard,
so you bring the h+c pipes through the back and connect up inside the
cupboard.

pcb1962 wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

Your tap connections are unlikely to be behind the back board of the
cupboard unless it's a very deep sink and/or a very shallow cupboard,
so you bring the h+c pipes through the back and connect up inside the
cupboard.

In that case wouldn't it be easier to leave the pipes where they are
(bracketed to the back wall) and run flexible connectors behind the back
board?

I can't imagine how the original plumber did the taps on the current
lay-on type sink I'm replacing. I guess he must have taken the side off
the carcass to get anywhere near the tap tails.

JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

mmm hope this isn't a "sparks for the grinder" job..... heregoes:-

last couple of sinks I recall doing the tails etc came out *in front*
of the backing boards whiich were (had to be) cut to get the H&C
supplies near enough.

Presumably the sink waste has to go out through a hole in the board
too?

also altho it's "all on show" leaks are easy to spot :)

(and who looks that close anyway once it's full of bleach bottles and
detergents etc?)


The wall behind my sink is something you wouldn't even want to catch a
glimpse of when browsing the household chemicals :-)

Having a gap at the back of the carcass for services, and then running
pipes inside the cabinet doesn't sound ideal, but may be necessary I
suppose.

In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 11 May, 17:03, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

mmm hope this isn't a "sparks for the grinder" job..... heregoes:-

last couple of sinks I recall doing the tails etc came out *in front*
of the backing boards whiich were (had to be) cut to get the H&C
supplies near enough.

Presumably the sink waste has to go out through a hole in the board
too?

also altho it's "all on show" leaks are easy to spot :)

(and who looks that close anyway once it's full of bleach bottles and
detergents etc?)

The wall behind my sink is something you wouldn't even want to catch a
glimpse of when browsing the household chemicals :-)

Having a gap at the back of the carcass for services, and then running
pipes inside the cabinet doesn't sound ideal, but may be necessary I
suppose.

mmm thinking on is the backboard made of hardboard? could it be gently
bent and "sprung" into place after the taps are plumbed to your
satisfaction? ISTR on some units they just slot into a groove at the
sides and bottom....

Cheers
JimK

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.


IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some
time this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop.
Question is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass
backing board. Even with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can
join those to the copper pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the
backing board in the way. Perhaps I could support the worktop at
both ends and leave a gap for the 1000mm base unit that will take
the sink. Without the adjustable legs I could probably then slide
the carcass under the sink, re-fit the legs, and jack it up to meet
the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

mmm hope this isn't a "sparks for the grinder" job..... heregoes:-

last couple of sinks I recall doing the tails etc came out *in front*
of the backing boards whiich were (had to be) cut to get the H&C
supplies near enough.

Presumably the sink waste has to go out through a hole in the board
too?

Virtually every sink I've come across is plumbed like this oncluding new
builds. Some of the plumbers were also clearly on LSD when they ran the
pipes.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.

IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK

On 11 May, 16:41, stuart noble wrote:
pcb1962 wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at *both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

Your tap connections are unlikely to be behind the back board of the
cupboard unless it's a very deep sink and/or a very shallow cupboard,
so you bring the h+c pipes through the back and connect up inside the
cupboard.

In that case wouldn't it be easier to leave the pipes where they are
(bracketed to the back wall) and run flexible connectors behind the back
board?

I can't imagine how the original plumber did the taps on the current
lay-on type sink I'm replacing. I guess he must have taken the side off
the carcass to get anywhere near the tap tails.

Here's a picture of one I did recently: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pcb1962/4599567856/
H+C supply comes up from floor level behind the panel, isolator valves
accessible through the 2 holes below the shelf, then 90 degree bend
into the cupboard. These are Howdens units, space behind the panel is
about 8cm.

On May 11, 6:35*pm, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
* *stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.

Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at *both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.

Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?

I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.

IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

Fit the cupboard without the back. Do all the plpumbing. Fit some
battens and a new removeable back in front of, and hiding, the
plumbing. Lose a little depth, but it's only the under sink cupboard.

MBQ

Man at B&Q wrote:
On May 11, 6:35 pm, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

Fit the cupboard without the back. Do all the plpumbing. Fit some
battens and a new removeable back in front of, and hiding, the
plumbing. Lose a little depth, but it's only the under sink cupboard.

MBQ

Except that the waste has to go through it, so it would have to be in 2
sections to be removeable

pcb1962 wrote:
On 11 May, 16:41, stuart noble wrote:
pcb1962 wrote:
On 11 May, 12:29, stuart noble wrote:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
Your tap connections are unlikely to be behind the back board of the
cupboard unless it's a very deep sink and/or a very shallow cupboard,
so you bring the h+c pipes through the back and connect up inside the
cupboard.
In that case wouldn't it be easier to leave the pipes where they are
(bracketed to the back wall) and run flexible connectors behind the back
board?

I can't imagine how the original plumber did the taps on the current
lay-on type sink I'm replacing. I guess he must have taken the side off
the carcass to get anywhere near the tap tails.

Here's a picture of one I did recently: http://www.flickr.com/photos/pcb1962/4599567856/
H+C supply comes up from floor level behind the panel, isolator valves
accessible through the 2 holes below the shelf, then 90 degree bend
into the cupboard. These are Howdens units, space behind the panel is
about 8cm.


The holes for the isolator valves is an interesting idea.

JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK

It's seeing how proper plumbers do it I suppose. No pipework in the
cupboard, and a neat hole for the waste. I may have to compromise of
course...

On 12 May, 11:25, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).

eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK

It's seeing how proper plumbers do it I suppose. No pipework in the
cupboard, and a neat hole for the waste. I may have to compromise of
course...

ah.... do you own such an installation already? they don't sound very
common :)

JimK

JimK wrote:
On 12 May, 11:25, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).
eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK
It's seeing how proper plumbers do it I suppose. No pipework in the
cupboard, and a neat hole for the waste. I may have to compromise of
course...

ah.... do you own such an installation already? they don't sound very
common :)

JimK

Yes. Same guy that did our heating 25 years ago, and his pipework is a
joy to behold. Alas, mine probably won't be

On 12 May, 19:41, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 12 May, 11:25, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).
eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK
It's seeing how proper plumbers do it I suppose. No pipework in the
cupboard, and a neat hole for the waste. I may have to compromise of
course...

ah.... do you own such an installation already? they don't sound very
common :)

JimK

Yes. Same guy that did our heating 25 years ago, and his pipework is a
joy to behold. Alas, mine probably won't be

if so I can only imagine he could do it by somehow "springing" the
cupboard back into position after plumbing completed (and tested!) -
how else could it be done?

Cheers
JimK

JimK wrote:
On 12 May, 19:41, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 12 May, 11:25, stuart noble wrote:
JimK wrote:
On 11 May, 18:35, stuart noble wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Been putting this off for months but I have to bite the bullet some time
this summer.
Standard setup with a 2 metre run of B&Q carcasses and worktop. Question
is, how to do the tap connections behind the carcass backing board. Even
with flexible connectors, I don't see how I can join those to the copper
pipe, or get to the tap tails, with the backing board in the way.
Perhaps I could support the worktop at both ends and leave a gap for
the 1000mm base unit that will take the sink. Without the adjustable
legs I could probably then slide the carcass under the sink, re-fit the
legs, and jack it up to meet the worktop.
Thinking out loud here. Anyone got any suggestions?
I didn't bother fitting back board under the sink, but being an IKEA
unit, the sides and bottom go all the way back to the wall anyway, so
it didn't make much difference. Not sure off-hand what the B&Q ones
end up like without the back board.
IIRC the B&Q back board is slotted about 100mm forward of the back
edges. It would be tempting to leave it out if the wall behind the unit
was in better condition. I could do without having to accurately holesaw
the waste pipe outlet too (and buy the whole kit for a one-off job).
eh?
daft question but who/what is urging you to do it this (difficult)
way?
JimK
It's seeing how proper plumbers do it I suppose. No pipework in the
cupboard, and a neat hole for the waste. I may have to compromise of
course...
ah.... do you own such an installation already? they don't sound very
common :)
JimK
Yes. Same guy that did our heating 25 years ago, and his pipework is a
joy to behold. Alas, mine probably won't be

if so I can only imagine he could do it by somehow "springing" the
cupboard back into position after plumbing completed (and tested!) -
how else could it be done?

Cheers
JimK

The old one is a "sit-on", roll front, 625mm width sink, so no
continuous worktop to think about. I imagine he took one side of the
carcass off to get to the tap tails.
Actually I'll miss the big bowl size, and would replace it with the same
type (but 600mm) if it weren't for the problems of butting a worktop up
to it, and having to tile behind the s/steel upstand at the back. The
advantage I suppose would be that, with flexible connectors, you could
pull the whole thing out as a free standing unit to change taps or whatever.