Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and remedy,
or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now obsolete
how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric entry points,
as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a Plasterboard one
either!).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK, and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^ will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

Cheers

John

In article , John
writes
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and remedy,
or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now obsolete
how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric entry points,
as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a Plasterboard one
either!).

Def a FAQ but can't find my last answer on the subject so here's a
potted summary:

Electric showers almost universally have 2 elements and sets of
switchgear to operate them. This allows high and low power settings but
also permits the use of reasonably priced control switches (generally V3
type microswitches) to switch the current to each element rather than a
huge clunker to switch the whole load.

Your low power operation suggests that only one element is operating for
some reason. Although the elements can fail, the most common failure
mode is the burning out of one or more of the microswitches.

To check what has gone, isolate the power from the unit, remove the
cover and check the elements with a multimeter expecting a resistance of
10-14ohms on each healthy element. If these are ok then check the
continuity of the microswitches at various switch positions.

Spares availability is good for Tritons but pricey. If the elements have
failed then it may not be an economic repair but if the microswitches
have gone then you can replace the lot for a tenner.

Post back what you find the fault and I'll give you some sources for the
microswitches if required (not to hand atm).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK, and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^ will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

32A is fine for a 9.5kW shower. Check the installed cable rating by
comparing with the outer dimensions with those quoted on the detailed
descriptions of each cable linked from he
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...rth/index.html

Which cable should be used depends whether is passes through insulation
or not, use this calculator to check:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...ltageDrop.html
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

fred wrote:
In article , John
writes
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the
water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and
remedy,
or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now obsolete
how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric entry
points,
as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a Plasterboard one
either!).

Def a FAQ but can't find my last answer on the subject so here's a
potted summary:

Electric showers almost universally have 2 elements and sets of
switchgear to operate them. This allows high and low power settings but
also permits the use of reasonably priced control switches (generally V3
type microswitches) to switch the current to each element rather than a
huge clunker to switch the whole load.

Your low power operation suggests that only one element is operating for
some reason. Although the elements can fail, the most common failure
mode is the burning out of one or more of the microswitches.

To check what has gone, isolate the power from the unit, remove the
cover and check the elements with a multimeter expecting a resistance of
10-14ohms on each healthy element. If these are ok then check the
continuity of the microswitches at various switch positions.

Spares availability is good for Tritons but pricey. If the elements have
failed then it may not be an economic repair but if the microswitches
have gone then you can replace the lot for a tenner.

Post back what you find the fault and I'll give you some sources for the
microswitches if required (not to hand atm).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK,
and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^
will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

32A is fine for a 9.5kW shower. Check the installed cable rating by
comparing with the outer dimensions with those quoted on the detailed
descriptions of each cable linked from he
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...rth/index.html


Which cable should be used depends whether is passes through insulation
or not, use this calculator to check:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...ltageDrop.html
32Amps = 8kW

In article , Bob Minchin
writes
fred wrote:

32A is fine for a 9.5kW shower. Check the installed cable rating by
comparing with the outer dimensions with those quoted on the detailed
descriptions of each cable linked from he
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...rth/index.html


Which cable should be used depends whether is passes through insulation
or not, use this calculator to check:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...ltageDrop.html

32Amps = 8kW

Thanks Bob, serves me right for using a calculator :-!

The complicator now suggests it should be a 40A breaker so 32A is well
undersized and implies that the cable may well be under-rated too.
--
fred
FIVE TV's superbright logo - not the DOG's, it's ********

John wrote:
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and remedy,
or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now obsolete
how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric entry points,
as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a Plasterboard one
either!).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK, and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^ will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

Cheers

John



This maybe of some help to you, the triton Caselona shower we had gave
up outside warranty, I tried searching tritons website for install
manuals to see if they made any with the same service entry points, well
they dont seem to, my old triton has the mains feed on the lower left
side and the water feed on the lower right side, I was about to give up
and faced the possibility of altering one of the services and popping on
a new tile or three.

I went to argos and got the Triton Madrid II 8.5kW as a replacement,
when I looked inside its the same design as the old Caselona, saved me a
bit of work, so if your old shower has the same service entry points as
mine then the Madrid II should fit it. If not, have a look at the
install manuals on tritons website.

--
Mart

John" wrote in message
...
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and
remedy, or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now
obsolete how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric
entry points, as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a
Plasterboard one either!).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK, and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^ will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

Cheers

John

Using the links provided by John Rumm I think my cable is 6mm^. The
measurements over the PVC sheath is 14mm x 7mm and the red & black
insulation measure 5mm on the outside. Thanks Fred for your advice but I
can't even see the microswitches never mind test them!! They are (according
to a web forum) next to the temperature adjuster but I cannot see them.
Bearing in mind the possible age of the unit I think better to change it.

Without changing the wiring (6mm^) or the breaker (32A) what is the largest
Kw shower I can safely install, the existing shower (9.5Kw) has operated
almost twice daily for at least the last 8 years without any tripping etc.
Also with all this Part P c**p can I swap the unit DIY or do I need to have
it 'professionally' installed? I know I can swap light fittings, swich
plates, etc. like for like, but are showers covered differently due to water
and electricity in the same unit?

Thanks

John

"John" wrote in message
...
John" wrote in message
...
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the
water gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault
and remedy, or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is
now obsolete how can I find one with the same / similar water and
electric entry points, as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not
a Plasterboard one either!).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK,
and how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^
will it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

Cheers

John

Using the links provided by John Rumm I think my cable is 6mm^. The
measurements over the PVC sheath is 14mm x 7mm and the red & black
insulation measure 5mm on the outside. Thanks Fred for your advice but I
can't even see the microswitches never mind test them!! They are
(according to a web forum) next to the temperature adjuster but I cannot
see them. Bearing in mind the possible age of the unit I think better to
change it.

Without changing the wiring (6mm^) or the breaker (32A) what is the
largest Kw shower I can safely install, the existing shower (9.5Kw) has
operated almost twice daily for at least the last 8 years without any
tripping etc. Also with all this Part P c**p can I swap the unit DIY or do
I need to have it 'professionally' installed? I know I can swap light
fittings, swich plates, etc. like for like, but are showers covered
differently due to water and electricity in the same unit?

Thanks

John
I have a Triton T100E shower installed in 1988. It has packed up a couple
of times since then and consequently a nice man from Triton has come and put
in a new circuit board a couple of times. Also, I live in an area where
limescale is a big problem and it was this that was causing my water to
either run scalding hot or else cold. I put on a new shower head and that
problem was solved. I descale regularly now.

Your shower is a Triton Bermuda, maybe you just need a new circuit board:

http://www.showerdoc.co.uk/shower-sp...n/bermuda.html

I found the company friendly and helpful. You could contact them about your
problem.

HTH, someone

"John" ha scritto nel messaggio
...
Hi Guys,
I have a Triton Bermuda 9.5Kw shower that must be at least 15
years old. It has developed a fault in that the water never gets really
hot. When the temperature dial is right up to No. 10 the water is only
'warm', you can quite easily hold your hand under it.

There is obviously power getting to it as the light comes on and the water
gets hotter than if the power is off. Any ideas as to the fault and
remedy, or as I suspect is it a chuck it and renew. As the shower is now
obsolete how can I find one with the same / similar water and electric
entry points, as the pipe and cable are behind a tiled wall (not a
Plasterboard one either!).

Whilst on the subject the circuit breaker in the CU is 32A is this OK, and
how can I check the mm^ of the cable, it is a lot thicker than 2.5mm^ will
it be 6 or 10mm^ (and which should it be)?

Cheers

John