I have a barely used but fairly old router that won't start. It is a
ProPlus 2050W.

I took the trigger guard off and found a switch that looks pristine:
KEDU HY38B.

There is a brown and a black wire on each end of the block. Can I
short them to see if the switch is duff?

If so how?

On Apr 21, 7:31*am, Weatherlawyer wrote:
I have a barely used but fairly old router that won't start. It is a
ProPlus 2050W.

I took the trigger guard off and found a switch that looks pristine:
KEDU HY38B.

There is a brown and a black wire on each end of the block. Can I
short them to see if the switch is duff?

If so how?

PS.

The cover where the cable enters the machine is difficult to remove.
Is there a catch hidden from sight? Or is it a state of the art to
find out who has been having a do it himself bodge before I take it
back. (Far too late and no receipt.)

There is a speed control wheel on the top. I presume this is the most
likely culprit but that is in the housing above the top of the
commutator.

I know they are cheap and in fact I have two other routers. But this
one has a nice set of large bits I'd like to be able to use.

If push comes to shove, I will put it under a table with a separate
switch. And ideas about that would be welcome.

Thanks in advance for the expert help.

In article ,
Weatherlawyer writes:
I have a barely used but fairly old router that won't start. It is a
ProPlus 2050W.

I took the trigger guard off and found a switch that looks pristine:
KEDU HY38B.

There is a brown and a black wire on each end of the block. Can I
short them to see if the switch is duff?

If so how?

One caution I would make - even my cheap router has soft-start.
If you tried turning it on with that shorted out, I imagine you'd
get a heafty unexpected twisting force due to the sudden startup,
which might result in you losing control of it.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Apr 21, 7:49*am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
* * * * Weatherlawyer writes:

I have a barely used but fairly old router that won't start. It is a
ProPlus 2050W.

I took the trigger guard off and found a switch that looks pristine:
KEDU HY38B.

There is a brown and a black wire on each end of the block. Can I
short them to see if the switch is duff?

If so how?

One caution I would make - even my cheap router has soft-start.
If you tried turning it on with that shorted out, I imagine you'd
get a heafty unexpected twisting force due to the sudden startup,
which might result in you losing control of it.

Man I couldn't find my own thread!

So that switch block is the damp start?
I've got two pairs of ubiquitous colours black and brown. Any ideas
which is which? Can these blocks be obtained by the unwashed or is it
cheaper to buy another router?

On 27 Apr, 18:24, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Apr 21, 7:49 am, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:



In article ,
Weatherlawyer writes:

I have a barely used but fairly old router that won't start. It is a
ProPlus 2050W.

I took the trigger guard off and found a switch that looks pristine:
KEDU HY38B.

There is a brown and a black wire on each end of the block. Can I
short them to see if the switch is duff?

If so how?

One caution I would make - even my cheap router has soft-start.
If you tried turning it on with that shorted out, I imagine you'd
get a heafty unexpected twisting force due to the sudden startup,
which might result in you losing control of it.

Man I couldn't find my own thread!

So that switch block is the damp start?

doubt it somehow, that's probly done by the speed control electronics
(assuming it has speed control?)...

does your router have a 2 part switch - i.e. you have to depress two
buttons before it will start? if so could that be the explanation for
the two sets of wires at one switch?

Cheers
JimK
I've got two pairs of ubiquitous colours black and brown. Any ideas
which is which? Can these blocks be obtained by the unwashed or is it
cheaper to buy another router?

On Apr 27, 6:43*pm, JimK wrote:

does your router have a 2 part switch - i.e. you have to depress two
buttons before it will start? if so could that be the explanation for
the two sets of wires at one switch?

No that's a safety catch. You press one and that allows you to press
the other. That's pretty much a standard for all electric saws and
stuff too.

Did you ever find a solution? I have the same issue and have found the switch is one of the problems (the brushes are worn too). I bypassed the switch and the router started, so I'm confident it's the switch.

replying to Weatherlawyer, fred bloggs wrote:
black to brown each end
put meter on mine and switch not working took a note of switch model put back
together and after a few presses of the on/off switch started clicking and was
working again
if switch has gone new switch, if you can get one a lot cheaper than a new
router

--
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