progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top with
10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options

Readymix
Bags of sand/stone/cement and hire a mixer
do these cement lorries deliver in such small quantities?
any other options?
what would you do?
TIA
--
Vass

On 10 Apr, 08:17, "Vass" wrote:
progress to datehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top with
10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options


morning!

Readymix

nah not for 1 cubic metre mix it yourself or better with a mate - I
did a cube with a mate last week in about 3 hours - levelled, washed
up, drinking tea included

Get "All in 20mm concreting ballast" X 2 bulk bags, (plus a bit of
your spare type1 if needed - [don't tell Nat Phil.:)]),
10 bags cement (couple of extras if you prefer a "safety margin")
hire a Mixer - 25 quid for a week!
and hire a strong barrow - if you don't have a good one/don't mind
giving it a workout....

Cheers
JimK

"JimK" wrote in message
...
On 10 Apr, 08:17, "Vass" wrote:
progress to datehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with
10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options


morning!

Readymix

nah not for 1 cubic metre mix it yourself or better with a mate - I
did a cube with a mate last week in about 3 hours - levelled, washed
up, drinking tea included

Get "All in 20mm concreting ballast" X 2 bulk bags, (plus a bit of
your spare type1 if needed - [don't tell Nat Phil.:)]),
10 bags cement (couple of extras if you prefer a "safety margin")
hire a Mixer - 25 quid for a week!
and hire a strong barrow - if you don't have a good one/don't mind
giving it a workout....

ah, cool, will see if someone will deliver this morning (doubtful but you
never know)
Ta
--
Vass

Vass wrote:
progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu
ft) ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options

Readymix
Bags of sand/stone/cement and hire a mixer
do these cement lorries deliver in such small quantities?

Yes, eg http://www.tarmac.co.uk/minimix/
..... down to 0.5 cu m

David

JimK wrote:
On 10 Apr, 08:17, "Vass" wrote:
progress to datehttp://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top with
10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options


morning!

Readymix

nah not for 1 cubic metre mix it yourself or better with a mate - I
did a cube with a mate last week in about 3 hours - levelled, washed
up, drinking tea included

Get "All in 20mm concreting ballast" X 2 bulk bags, (plus a bit of
your spare type1 if needed - [don't tell Nat Phil.:)]),
10 bags cement (couple of extras if you prefer a "safety margin")
hire a Mixer - 25 quid for a week!
and hire a strong barrow - if you don't have a good one/don't mind
giving it a workout....


I've mixed quite a bit in a wheel barrow with a shovel when all else
failed.

unless you are driving over the bloody edgings, you dont really need
foundations. I built a retaining wall on just levelled off dirt and
about 3 " of mortar using instead of footings concrete blocks laid
sideways and tied with bow ties.

That's what I would do in your case. Simply dig down deep enough to lay
concrete blocks on a mortar bed, them build brick on top with bow ties
for strength.



Cheers
JimK

Vass wrote:
progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and
top with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu
ft) ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options

Readymix
Bags of sand/stone/cement and hire a mixer
do these cement lorries deliver in such small quantities?
any other options?
what would you do?
TIA

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top, with a
brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are going about it
the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire space
with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor, then lay block
paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly onto the mot, leave to
set for a few days then fill in the remaining 60 - 70mm with whatever stone
you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and then frost
blows them to pieces.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...



I've mixed quite a bit in a wheel barrow with a shovel when all else
failed.

unless you are driving over the bloody edgings, ...

yes I will be
--
Vass

"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top, with
a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are going about
it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire space
with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor, then lay
block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly onto the mot,
leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining 60 - 70mm with
whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and then
frost blows them to pieces.


hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted footings (or
so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being
driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?
--
Vass

"Vass" wrote in message
...


"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top, with
a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are going about
it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire space
with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor, then lay
block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly onto the mot,
leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining 60 - 70mm with
whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and then
frost blows them to pieces.


hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted footings
(or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being
driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?


Paving Expert says this is the right way too ?
(I'm using blocks not bricks)

Vass wrote:
"Vass" wrote in message
...


"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on
top, with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you
are going about it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire
space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor,
then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly
onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the
remaining 60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no
time. bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water
and then frost blows them to pieces.


hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted
footings (or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after
being driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?


Paving Expert says this is the right way too ?
(I'm using blocks not bricks)

If you are driving over them (which you didn't mention earlier) then they
need to be concreted in place, but IME they will still move as the gravel
area infil isn't substantial enough to keep them from doing so.
That is to say, each time your wheels go over the blocks, they can move the
blocks into the gravel because it's loose, and no amount of concrete
underneath the blocks is going to prevent this because they don't adhere
well to any cement/concrete....it's no problem stopping them moving up and
down, it's side to side that you can't stop.

Gravel drives look great when they're first done but after a week most of
the gravel is half way down the street, but it's your choice.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

Vass wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top,
with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are
going about it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire
space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor,
then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly
onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining
60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and
then frost blows them to pieces.


hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted
footings (or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being
driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?

Aaaaaarrrrgggghhhh!

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Phil L wrote:
Vass wrote:
"Vass" wrote in message
...


"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on
top, with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you
are going about it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire
space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor,
then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly
onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the
remaining 60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no
time. bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water
and then frost blows them to pieces.


hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted
footings (or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after
being driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?


Paving Expert says this is the right way too ?
(I'm using blocks not bricks)

If you are driving over them (which you didn't mention earlier) then
they need to be concreted in place, but IME they will still move as
the gravel area infil isn't substantial enough to keep them from
doing so. That is to say, each time your wheels go over the blocks, they
can
move the blocks into the gravel because it's loose, and no amount of
concrete underneath the blocks is going to prevent this because they
don't adhere well to any cement/concrete....it's no problem stopping
them moving up and down, it's side to side that you can't stop.

Gravel drives look great when they're first done but after a week
most of the gravel is half way down the street, but it's your choice.

Gravel is great if you use 20mm & not 10mm and have 'edges'. Did mine 10
years ago. You get the odd bit walking but very little.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 10 Apr, 16:31, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Vass wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...

Your message is garbled.

10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top,
with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are
going about it the wrong way.

you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire
space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor,
then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly
onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining
60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.

10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and
then frost blows them to pieces.

hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted
footings (or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being
driven over all the time?

10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1

Is this wrong then?

Aaaaaarrrrgggghhhh!

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

aye and cats **** in 10mm - not 20mm though too big (unless you have
pumas?)

Cheers
JimK

JimK wrote:
On 10 Apr, 16:31, "The Medway Handyman" davidl...@no-spam-
blueyonder.co.uk wrote:
Vass wrote:
"Phil L" wrote in message
...
Your message is garbled.
10mm of what? - if you are intending having decorative stone on top,
with a brick edge all the way around as the final outcome, you are
going about it the wrong way.
you don't need concrete or even bricks, you simply fill the entire
space with mot leaving it 60mm short, whack down with a compactor,
then lay block paving blocks all around the edge on mortar directly
onto the mot, leave to set for a few days then fill in the remaining
60 - 70mm with whatever stone you are using.
10mm wouldn't last 5 minutes and the mot would be showing in no time.
bricks aren't suitable for this purpose as they soak up water and
then frost blows them to pieces.
hmmm..
I'm driving over the blocks around the edge thats why I wanted
footings (or so I thought)
surely if I lay them on the Type 1, they will move in time after being
driven over all the time?
10mm gravel/shingle will be the top layer on top of the type 1
Is this wrong then?
Aaaaaarrrrgggghhhh!

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

aye and cats **** in 10mm - not 20mm though too big (unless you have
pumas?)

My cats **** in anything.

But prefer sharp sand.


Cheers
JimK

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I had
to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every time I
went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the contact
patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well defined piles
where they next hit the ground in the middle of the footpath. I seemed
to be forever sweeping.

Cheers,

Colin.

Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I had
to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every time I
went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the contact
patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well defined piles
where they next hit the ground in the middle of the footpath. I seemed
to be forever sweeping.


Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time its
likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular dosing
with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and needs another layer
laid on top.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use 20mm.

20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I had
to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every time I
went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the contact patch,
roll right round the top and fall off in two well defined piles where
they next hit the ground in the middle of the footpath. I seemed to be
forever sweeping.


Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time its
likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular dosing
with pathclear.

Says the man who doesn't put weed control fabric under the gravel.

I have about 40 m2 of gravel and it doesn't grow weeds except for below the
bird feeder.

Then eventually its all mud and needs another layer laid on top.

Of course the mud doesn't happen when you have a textile sheet under the
gravel, well not for years.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use
20mm.

20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I
had to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every
time I went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the
contact patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well
defined piles where they next hit the ground in the middle of the
footpath. I seemed to be forever sweeping.


Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

What more could you want? Also dead easy to maintain & repair.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time its
likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular
dosing with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and needs another layer
laid on top.

Not if you use a fabric.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"Vass" wrote in message
...
progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options



Up to a m3 is easy shovel & mixer job .......... I have done much larger
quantities this way, but once you go over a m3 then ReadyMix comes into
sensible option.
MiniMix is cheaper if you only want 1 -3 m3
There is also another variant where they mix and you barrow ... can't
remeber the name ... something like 'barrow mix'

That is good for small quantities ... they have mixer and ingredients on
Truck ... they mix it, you wheel & lay ... no waste, no leftover

The Medway Handyman wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use
20mm.
20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I
had to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every
time I went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the
contact patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well
defined piles where they next hit the ground in the middle of the
footpath. I seemed to be forever sweeping.

Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

What more could you want? Also dead easy to maintain & repair.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time its
likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular
dosing with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and needs another layer
laid on top.

Not if you use a fabric.



Absolute rubbish.

None of my weeds even get NEAR the base of the gravel. They are all
windblown an live *in* the gravel, or in the mud the cars have brought in.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes - use
20mm.
20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and I
had to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge. Every
time I went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres at the
contact patch, roll right round the top and fall off in two well
defined piles where they next hit the ground in the middle of the
footpath. I seemed to be forever sweeping.

Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

What more could you want? Also dead easy to maintain & repair.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time
its likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need regular
dosing with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and needs
another layer laid on top.

Not if you use a fabric.



Absolute rubbish.

Back at you.

It doesn't need regular dosing with Pathclear, its not eventually all mud &
doesn't need another layer. My drive & front garden have been down for 6
years. Garden has fabric & gravel, drive has Type 1 & gravel.


None of my weeds even get NEAR the base of the gravel. They are all
windblown an live *in* the gravel, or in the mud the cars have
brought in.

Don't have much mud on wheels since I live in an urban area. Only weeds I
get are from bird droppings. No problem whatsoever to control. Maybe 10
mins per 3 months including the odd rake - still looks 100%.

Few weeks ago I changed the oil on the van & made a mess. A few minutes
with a rake sorted it. The mess would have shagged concrete of blocks
completely.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Colin Stamp wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Don't use 10mm - it will be all over the place in 10 minutes -
use 20mm.
20mm can be annoying too. I used to live in a house with 20mm and
I had to park with the wheels about half a metre from the edge.
Every time I went out, a load of stones would stick to the tyres
at the contact patch, roll right round the top and fall off in
two well defined piles where they next hit the ground in the
middle of the footpath. I seemed to be forever sweeping.

Gravel is never optimal, except that's its reasonably good looking,
reasonably long lasting and reasonably cheap.

What more could you want? Also dead easy to maintain & repair.

Tarmac or concrete it ain't., not is it block paving


Gravel needs a bit of raking till its smashes down, by which time
its likely going to have enough soil and weeds in it to need
regular dosing with pathclear. Then eventually its all mud and
needs another layer laid on top.

Not if you use a fabric.



Absolute rubbish.

Back at you.

It doesn't need regular dosing with Pathclear, its not eventually all
mud & doesn't need another layer. My drive & front garden have been
down for 6 years. Garden has fabric & gravel, drive has Type 1 &
gravel.

None of my weeds even get NEAR the base of the gravel. They are all
windblown an live *in* the gravel, or in the mud the cars have
brought in.

Don't have much mud on wheels since I live in an urban area. Only
weeds I get are from bird droppings. No problem whatsoever to
control. Maybe 10 mins per 3 months including the odd rake - still
looks 100%.
Few weeks ago I changed the oil on the van & made a mess. A few
minutes with a rake sorted it. The mess would have shagged concrete
of blocks completely.

Interesting dialogue.

I have a gravel drive, been down 27 years in an urban area and now knackered
due to blinding. Wind blown and washed off the vehicles. Had a great
appearance and of course the water soaked below, no runoff to be concerned
about despite being mounted on a heavy clay based loam. The gravel is half
inch and the sub base approx. one and a half inch granite chips which is
rather odd for where we live, East Midlands and prone to frost. Wishing to
support the UK, I had many "BMC" motors and found the ability to rake and
move the gravel an advantage due to the motors' abilities to irrigate the
surface with the North Sea's best.

Having said that, my father's home, where the concrete for the drive was
laid in 53 is still sound. This is on the coast and even with the Climate
Warmists' dramatic projections should only require one to use your wellies
once a year in 2050.

Originally, BSAs and Ford sit up and beg vans occupied the drive and dumped
their load which was removed.During the later 50s and through the 60s,
beetles occupied the drive without ever shedding any oil. Late 60s and early
70s, mini's and Mercs occupied the drive; both types of vehicles did spot
the drive at the minimum! After that, diesel Pugs and Mercs which were very
well trained not to relieve themselves on the drive have inhabited it.

This drive is on a hill on a sandy base and the concrete is only just
showing signs of movement. The surface is in excellent condition showing no
signs of spalling and no oil on the surface.

Figure? YMMV.

"Rick Hughes" wrote in message
...

"Vass" wrote in message
...
progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options



Up to a m3 is easy shovel & mixer job .......... I have done much larger
quantities this way, but once you go over a m3 then ReadyMix comes into
sensible option.
MiniMix is cheaper if you only want 1 -3 m3
There is also another variant where they mix and you barrow ... can't
remeber the name ... something like 'barrow mix'

That is good for small quantities ... they have mixer and ingredients on
Truck ... they mix it, you wheel & lay ... no waste, no leftover

I've sourced a mixer for free for a couple of weeks.
Ta for info
--
Vass

On 12 Apr, 22:04, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
"Vass" wrote in message

...

progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options

Up to a m3 * is easy shovel & mixer job .......... I have done much larger
quantities this way, but once you go over a m3 then ReadyMix comes into
sensible option.
MiniMix is cheaper if you only want 1 -3 m3
There is also another variant where they mix and you barrow ... can't
remeber the name ... something like 'barrow mix'

That is good for small quantities ... they have mixer and ingredients on
Truck ... they mix it, you wheel & lay ... no waste, no leftover

I used one of those for my kitchen floor slab. A bit extra and they
barrow too. Either way, they have barrows on the truck. I just tamped
it down.
Advantage - you can say "when" whenever you feel like it.
Simon.

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
On 12 Apr, 22:04, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
"Vass" wrote in message

...

progress to date
http://www.flickr.com/photos/canon-eos/4506741765/
the SO wants a brick outline before I fill the hole with Type 1 and top
with 10mm
so, I need to shutter the edges and get some footings in (total 33 cu
ft)
ready to lay the bricks on
their own mortar.
So the way I see it I have these options

Up to a m3 is easy shovel & mixer job .......... I have done much larger
quantities this way, but once you go over a m3 then ReadyMix comes into
sensible option.
MiniMix is cheaper if you only want 1 -3 m3
There is also another variant where they mix and you barrow ... can't
remeber the name ... something like 'barrow mix'

That is good for small quantities ... they have mixer and ingredients on
Truck ... they mix it, you wheel & lay ... no waste, no leftover

I used one of those for my kitchen floor slab. A bit extra and they
barrow too. Either way, they have barrows on the truck. I just tamped
it down.
Advantage - you can say "when" whenever you feel like it.
Simon.



It's a good idea if you don't own a mixer ... plus you don't have a very
large pile of redaymix turning into a rockery as you valiantly try to barrow
it away.