Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement is
only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only going
to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is what a normal
socket it rated to.

If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable to
connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)

However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven off
completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the cabinet,
so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to current standards -
I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent cupboard is OK or not -
maybe someone qualified can comment?

Toby..
(Not an electrician)

"Toby" wrote in message
...

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement is
only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only
going to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is what
a normal socket it rated to.

If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable to
connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)

However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven off
completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the
cabinet, so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to current
standards - I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent cupboard is
OK or not - maybe someone qualified can comment?

Toby..
(Not an electrician)

Our oven is wired in like this - the 13A socket (unswitched I think) is
behind the oven, and thus inaccessible - but it is controlled via a standard
cooker switch above the units.

JW

"John Whitworth" wrote in message
...


"Toby" wrote in message
...

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement
is only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only
going to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is what
a normal socket it rated to.

If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable
to connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)

However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven off
completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the
cabinet, so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to current
standards - I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent cupboard is
OK or not - maybe someone qualified can comment?

Toby..
(Not an electrician)

Our oven is wired in like this - the 13A socket (unswitched I think) is
behind the oven, and thus inaccessible - but it is controlled via a
standard cooker switch above the units.

JW

Than that is fine, as there is a means of accessible isolation.

Toby...

Toby wrote:

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement
is only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only
going to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is
what a normal socket it rated to.

If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable
to connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)

However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven
off completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the
cabinet, so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to
current standards - I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent
cupboard is OK or not - maybe someone qualified can comment?

Toby..
(Not an electrician)

We recently had a multi fuel free standing cooker installed
professionally, and the switch was put in the adjoining cabinet. AIUI
double ovens and twin cavity cookers require hard wiring with 6mm cable.
Most single ovens are ok on a 13amp plug.

On 6 Apr, 08:12, stuart noble wrote:
Toby wrote:

"CJC" wrote in message
....
Hi all,

I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. *My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. *I am
looking at two new ovens:

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B

or

http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1

The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.

Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.

If someone could explain this it would be very useful.

Many thanks,

Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement
is only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only
going to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is
what a normal socket it rated to.

If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable
to connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)

However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven
off completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the
cabinet, so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to
current standards - I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent
cupboard is OK or not - maybe someone qualified can comment?

Toby..
(Not an electrician)

We recently had a multi fuel free standing cooker installed
professionally, and the switch was put in the adjoining cabinet. AIUI
double ovens and twin cavity cookers require hard wiring with 6mm cable.
Most single ovens are ok on a 13amp plug.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Kitchen fitters do strange things! Just because one has provided a
switch inside an adjoining cabinet is not a reliable indicator.

cynic wrote:
On 6 Apr, 08:12, stuart noble wrote:
Toby wrote:

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Hi all,
I currently have an inbuilt oven in which I want to replace. My
current oven is plugged straight into a power plug socket. I am
looking at two new ovens:
http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...BEKO-OIF21300B
or
http://www.comet.co.uk/shopcomet/pro...TPOINT-SY36X-1
The Beko ones says need to be hard wired in and the hotpoint says it
can be plugged into a normal socket.
Problem is I do prefer the Beko one and if I can just plug it into my
current electric socket like my current oven then I would definitely
get it.
If someone could explain this it would be very useful.
Many thanks,
Well, according to the manual for the Beko one (page 6 here
http://www.beko.co.uk/manuals/OIF21300.pdf) the total power requirement
is only 2.3Kw, which will be fine on a normal 13A socket as this is only
going to draw 10A - it even says the minimum fusing is 13A, which is
what a normal socket it rated to.
If it were me, I would cut the cable off the old one and use this cable
to connect the new one (Providing it is in good condition, of course)
However, as I understand it, you should have a means to turn the oven
off completely, local to the oven, without having to remove it from the
cabinet, so if the socket is behind the oven, then this is not to
current standards - I am not sure if having the socket in an adjacent
cupboard is OK or not - maybe someone qualified can comment?
Toby..
(Not an electrician)
We recently had a multi fuel free standing cooker installed
professionally, and the switch was put in the adjoining cabinet. AIUI
double ovens and twin cavity cookers require hard wiring with 6mm cable.
Most single ovens are ok on a 13amp plug.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Kitchen fitters do strange things! Just because one has provided a
switch inside an adjoining cabinet is not a reliable indicator.

This was a retrofit, so he didn't have much option. Pukka contractor
with all the gas/partP paperwork, so I assume it's all up to standard.
Also got me a new gas meter installed within the hour because something
had corroded and he couldn't test the pressure.

Oh wow, thanks all for your feedback on this.

Based on what you say it seems fine to just put a normal cable into it
and use the existing socket (which is in an adjacent cupboard) we
have. Initially when I looked into it on the net they were talking
about fires starting due to the oven pulling more power than ones that
say ok for 13 amp.

Thanks again for your help. I think I will go for the Beko one.

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Oh wow, thanks all for your feedback on this.

Based on what you say it seems fine to just put a normal cable into it
and use the existing socket (which is in an adjacent cupboard) we
have. Initially when I looked into it on the net they were talking
about fires starting due to the oven pulling more power than ones that
say ok for 13 amp.

Thanks again for your help. I think I will go for the Beko one.

You'll be fine. Generally speaking, a single oven unit will be capable of
being supplied from a 13A socket, whereas a double electric oven will most
likely need properly wiring into a specific circuit.

Thanks again for all the answers. I have a further question based on
this though.

I have just checked my consumer unit and my oven is on the same ring
as downstairs electric (32 amp). Is this normal? I do have a 32amp
fuse separate to the downstairs ring but after testing this only
powers the electric hob. Which means the hob is separate to
downstairs electric but not the oven?

Many thanks,

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Thanks again for all the answers. I have a further question based on
this though.

I have just checked my consumer unit and my oven is on the same ring
as downstairs electric (32 amp). Is this normal? I do have a 32amp
fuse separate to the downstairs ring but after testing this only
powers the electric hob. Which means the hob is separate to
downstairs electric but not the oven?

Many thanks,

Ideally, anything that is going to present a significant load would be on a
separate circuit.

If you haven't had a problem with it tripping out before, then the new one
one unlikely to make it any worse.

Do you have an induction hob by any chance?

Toby...

On 11 Apr, 00:21, "Toby" wrote:
"CJC" wrote in message

...

Thanks again for all the answers. *I have a further question based on
this though.

I have just checked my consumer unit and my oven is on the same ring
as downstairs electric (32 amp). *Is this normal? *I do have a 32amp
fuse separate to the downstairs ring but after testing this only
powers the electric hob. *Which means the hob is separate to
downstairs electric but not the oven?

Many thanks,

Ideally, anything that is going to present a significant load would be on a
separate circuit.

If you haven't had a problem with it tripping out before, then the new one
one unlikely to make it any worse.

Do you have an induction hob by any chance?

Toby...

No it's just a standard hob, thats what made it unusual to me.

I've never had tripping issues before therefore I'm just going to bite
the bullet and buy it today.

Thanks all for your help.

"CJC" wrote in message
...
Thanks again for all the answers. I have a further question based on
this though.

I have just checked my consumer unit and my oven is on the same ring
as downstairs electric (32 amp). Is this normal? I do have a 32amp
fuse separate to the downstairs ring but after testing this only
powers the electric hob. Which means the hob is separate to
downstairs electric but not the oven?

Many thanks,

That is quite normal. An electric hob can pull a lot of current and will
need its own supply.

Adam