Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.

Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.

Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?

I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well

Thanks, Tim.

timjh0 wrote:
Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.

Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.

Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?

I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well

Thanks, Tim.

Providing it hasn't been waxed, or finished in any way, you can make it
look a hell of a lot better by brushing on a generous coat of hydrogen
peroxide (the 6% version from the chemist's will do if you can't find
anything stronger). The difference is not apparent till it's completely
dry, but it tends to lighten those soggy dark patches, and generally
clean up the appearance.
Alas, it won't cure the damp bits, and nor will anything else I'm aware
of. Neutralising the alkali residue produces equally hygroscopic salts.
AFAIK all sodium salts behave that way, so it wouldn't matter which acid
you used

On Mar 31, 10:54*am, stuart noble wrote:
timjh0 wrote:
Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.

Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.

Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?

*I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well

Thanks, Tim.

Providing it hasn't been waxed, or finished in any way, you can make it
look a hell of a lot better by brushing on a generous coat of hydrogen
peroxide (the 6% version from the chemist's will do if you can't find
anything stronger). The difference is not apparent till it's completely
dry, but it tends to lighten those soggy dark patches, and generally
clean up the appearance.
Alas, it won't cure the damp bits, and nor will anything else I'm aware
of. Neutralising the alkali residue produces equally hygroscopic salts.
AFAIK all sodium salts behave that way, so it wouldn't matter which acid
you used

Could you not immerse it in a tank of warm water for a bit (same sort
of duration they use for the duppign) and try and dissolve out the
sodium salts? perhap schange the water a few times.

Robert

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 10:54:50 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Providing it hasn't been waxed, or finished in any way, you can make it
look a hell of a lot better by brushing on a generous coat of hydrogen
peroxide (the 6% version from the chemist's will do if you can't find
anything stronger).


Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version. 3% seems
to have become the norm since the 2006 plot for liquid bombs to be
carried on to aircraft. The bombs were to be made with hydrogen
peroxide.

RobertL wrote:
On Mar 31, 10:54 am, stuart noble wrote:
timjh0 wrote:
Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.
Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.
Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?
I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well
Thanks, Tim.
Providing it hasn't been waxed, or finished in any way, you can make it
look a hell of a lot better by brushing on a generous coat of hydrogen
peroxide (the 6% version from the chemist's will do if you can't find
anything stronger). The difference is not apparent till it's completely
dry, but it tends to lighten those soggy dark patches, and generally
clean up the appearance.
Alas, it won't cure the damp bits, and nor will anything else I'm aware
of. Neutralising the alkali residue produces equally hygroscopic salts.
AFAIK all sodium salts behave that way, so it wouldn't matter which acid
you used

Could you not immerse it in a tank of warm water for a bit (same sort
of duration they use for the duppign) and try and dissolve out the
sodium salts? perhap schange the water a few times.

Robert

Maybe, but they normally power hose the stuff when it comes out of the
tank, and that doesn't always shift it. It's partly to do with how
porous the wood is, and partly the fact that a caustic solution is more
penetrative than plain water. It has a very soapy feel if you get it
inside your Marigold :-)

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 10:54:50 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Providing it hasn't been waxed, or finished in any way, you can make it
look a hell of a lot better by brushing on a generous coat of hydrogen
peroxide (the 6% version from the chemist's will do if you can't find
anything stronger).


Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version. 3% seems
to have become the norm since the 2006 plot for liquid bombs to be
carried on to aircraft. The bombs were to be made with hydrogen
peroxide.


The pharmacy in Sainsburys Savacentre had the 6% a couple of months ago.
Asked me what I wanted it for and I said to make bombs. She said I
didn't look the type and handed it over. I didn't know whether to take
that as a compliment.

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 12:53:07 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:
Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version. 3% seems
to have become the norm since the 2006 plot for liquid bombs to be
carried on to aircraft. The bombs were to be made with hydrogen
peroxide.


The pharmacy in Sainsburys Savacentre had the 6% a couple of months ago.
Asked me what I wanted it for and I said to make bombs. She said I
didn't look the type and handed it over. I didn't know whether to take
that as a compliment.


My nearest Sainsbury's pharmacy has sold out of its stock of 6%. The
same applies to Tesco, Morrisons, Boots and several branches of
pharmacy chains.

Apparently all new supplies are 3%.

In article ,
stuart noble writes:

Maybe, but they normally power hose the stuff when it comes out of the
tank, and that doesn't always shift it. It's partly to do with how
porous the wood is, and partly the fact that a caustic solution is more
penetrative than plain water. It has a very soapy feel if you get it
inside your Marigold :-)

That's it dissolving your skin, and soap is one of the by-products...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:
Maybe, but they normally power hose the stuff when it comes out of the
tank, and that doesn't always shift it. It's partly to do with how
porous the wood is, and partly the fact that a caustic solution is more
penetrative than plain water. It has a very soapy feel if you get it
inside your Marigold :-)

That's it dissolving your skin, and soap is one of the by-products...


It's pretty soapy anyway. A globule of deionised water on a sheet of
glass more or less stays put, whereas an alkaline equivalent spreads in
all directions. Just as well we don't get alkaline rain I suppose

On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version. *

Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version.

Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.

Which might be more expensive by the time you've found one and driven
there. We're talking 69 pence here.

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 15:04:33 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Just as well we don't get alkaline rain I suppose


They do in Middlesbrough. ;-)

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 07:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version. *

Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.


The local wholesale Sally's only stocks 3%.

It looks as though the only 6% that's easily available is old stock.

Thanks for replies guys. Residual salt makes sense... but there is no
way to get rid of it? Trying to remember my school boy
chemistry ;-)

Cheers,

Tim.

PS Its not been waxed yet

Thanks for replies guys. Residual salt makes sense... but there is no
way to get rid of it? Trying to remember my school boy
chemistry ;-)

Cheers,

Tim.

PS Its not been waxed yet

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 07:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:
On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version.
Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.


The local wholesale Sally's only stocks 3%.

It looks as though the only 6% that's easily available is old stock.


Ah well. Just use twice as much then. For this application the strength
isn't that crucial

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
stuart noble writes:

Maybe, but they normally power hose the stuff when it comes out of
the tank, and that doesn't always shift it. It's partly to do with
how porous the wood is, and partly the fact that a caustic solution
is more penetrative than plain water. It has a very soapy feel if
you get it inside your Marigold :-)

That's it dissolving your skin, and soap is one of the by-products...

Saponification IIRC.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:24:50 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 07:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:
On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version.
Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.


The local wholesale Sally's only stocks 3%.

It looks as though the only 6% that's easily available is old stock.


Ah well. Just use twice as much then. For this application the strength
isn't that crucial


Unfortunately, my application - the routine sterilisation of a
silicone medical device - needs the 6%. The 3% version is
ineffectual.

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:24:50 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 07:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:
On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version.
Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.

The local wholesale Sally's only stocks 3%.

It looks as though the only 6% that's easily available is old stock.

Ah well. Just use twice as much then. For this application the strength
isn't that crucial


Unfortunately, my application - the routine sterilisation of a
silicone medical device - needs the 6%. The 3% version is
ineffectual.


You could always buy a litre from a wood finishing supplier and water it
down. It's part 2 of a 2 part pack but they usually sell it separately.
That's more like 30% IIRC, at any rate enough to make your fingers sting
like hell and turn white.
Maybe an agricultural supplier if you're out in the sticks?

On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 18:41:28 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 17:24:50 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010 07:44:40 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:
On 31 Mar, 12:20, Bruce wrote:

Most, if not all, chemists no longer stock the 6% version.
Too expensive anyway. Go to a hairdresser's wholesaler.

The local wholesale Sally's only stocks 3%.

It looks as though the only 6% that's easily available is old stock.

Ah well. Just use twice as much then. For this application the strength
isn't that crucial


Unfortunately, my application - the routine sterilisation of a
silicone medical device - needs the 6%. The 3% version is
ineffectual.


You could always buy a litre from a wood finishing supplier and water it
down. It's part 2 of a 2 part pack but they usually sell it separately.
That's more like 30% IIRC, at any rate enough to make your fingers sting
like hell and turn white.
Maybe an agricultural supplier if you're out in the sticks?


Some good ideas there, Stuart, thanks. It would also be possible to
end up with something stronger than 6%, which would be a good thing.

"timjh0" wrote in message
...
Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.

Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.

Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?

I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well

Thanks, Tim.

Out of interest, I have a door that has just been stripped and is drying
out. I understand that I have to neutralise it but wondered what the
vinegar/water mixture ratio should be ???

John wrote:
"timjh0" wrote in message
...
Hi, We've an old pine cupboard that's been kicking around for years
and finally trying to tidy up.

Think it probably been caustic dipped a while ago, the result being
that patches appear to be damp to the touch, spongee and a darker
brown.

Is there anything I can do to stabilise what's left?

I've already tried vinegar and washed several times with water. Some
areas now look better, but others well

Thanks, Tim.

Out of interest, I have a door that has just been stripped and is drying
out. I understand that I have to neutralise it but wondered what the
vinegar/water mixture ratio should be ???


If it has been properly rinsed after stripping, it shouldn't need
neutralising