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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Garage doors
My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years
old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#2
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Garage doors
Peter Twydell wrote:
My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? Shiplap. Sounds like you have feather edge. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Garage doors
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:45:40 +0000, Peter Twydell wrote:
My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? I know they've been posted before, but it bears another airing. When you have made your garage door sound, there are options for decorating it to make it stand out from all the other ones in the street: http://www.style-your-garage.com/ |
#4
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Garage doors
On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:45:40 +0000, Peter Twydell wrote:
My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. Hmm, I'm not sure if there are many of us about with that kind of setup any more - everyone seems to have up-and-over stuff these days. Mine are ratty as hell (garage had bakelite fittings, which gives an idea of age), but sound a bit more solid than yours even. I'm just going to rip them off and make new ones this year - some kind of OSB[1] over a diagonal-braced frame, moisture barrier, shiplap (as TMH says), and probably some kind of outer, decorative framework. Going to be heavy, but I don't care... The whole garage is coming down in a few years anyway - maybe I'll re-use the 'new' doors then if they're still good (I really like the look[2] of side-hinged ones) [1] does OSB make sense there? I'm not sure if it's a US-only term. [2] shame about the sealing properties... cheers Jules |
#5
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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Garage doors
In message , pete
writes On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:45:40 +0000, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? I know they've been posted before, but it bears another airing. When you have made your garage door sound, there are options for decorating it to make it stand out from all the other ones in the street: http://www.style-your-garage.com/ OK for metal up-and-overs, but not really right for timber side hung doors (see original post) behind a Grade II listed barn. Five houses in the road, all with the same type of garage doors. You can't see ours from the road anyway. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#6
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Garage doors
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? Shiplap. Sounds like you have feather edge. No, they're T&G, like cladding. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#7
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Garage doors
In message , Jules Richardson
writes On Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:45:40 +0000, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. Hmm, I'm not sure if there are many of us about with that kind of setup any more - everyone seems to have up-and-over stuff these days. Mine are ratty as hell (garage had bakelite fittings, which gives an idea of age), but sound a bit more solid than yours even. I'm just going to rip them off and make new ones this year - some kind of OSB[1] over a diagonal-braced frame, moisture barrier, shiplap (as TMH says), and probably some kind of outer, decorative framework. Going to be heavy, but I don't care... The whole garage is coming down in a few years anyway - maybe I'll re-use the 'new' doors then if they're still good (I really like the look[2] of side-hinged ones) [1] does OSB make sense there? I'm not sure if it's a US-only term. [2] shame about the sealing properties... cheers Jules Yes, OSB is used in the UK, and in some continental countries too. I have to use the T&G as the garage is with our Grade II listed converted barn, and probably has to stick with the original style. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#8
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Garage doors
On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote:
My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. |
#9
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Garage doors
In message , Dave Osborne
writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#10
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Garage doors
On Mar 17, 12:04 am, Peter Twydell wrote:
In message , Dave Osborne writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort of stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! expect softwood will be vastly cheaper tho need the bottoms standing in a bucket of wood preserver for a good soak before fixing (once dry and wearing gloves naturally) Cheers JimK |
#11
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Garage doors
In message
, JimK writes On Mar 17, 12:04 am, Peter Twydell wrote: In message , Dave Osborne writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! expect softwood will be vastly cheaper tho need the bottoms standing in a bucket of wood preserver for a good soak before fixing (once dry and wearing gloves naturally) Cheers JimK That's going to be some bucket as there are four doors with a total width (excluding the frames) of 3m68. About 40 boards, depending on their width. I'm considering Wickes General Purpose Cladding: http://www.wickes.co.uk/General-Purp...ng/invt/128462 -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#12
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Garage doors
Peter Twydell wrote:
In message , JimK writes On Mar 17, 12:04 am, Peter Twydell wrote: In message , Dave Osborne writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! expect softwood will be vastly cheaper tho need the bottoms standing in a bucket of wood preserver for a good soak before fixing (once dry and wearing gloves naturally) Cheers JimK That's going to be some bucket as there are four doors with a total width (excluding the frames) of 3m68. About 40 boards, depending on their width. I'm considering Wickes General Purpose Cladding: http://www.wickes.co.uk/General-Purp...ng/invt/128462 Still say shiplap is the better choice :-) -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#13
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Garage doors
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes Peter Twydell wrote: In message , JimK writes On Mar 17, 12:04 am, Peter Twydell wrote: In message , Dave Osborne writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! expect softwood will be vastly cheaper tho need the bottoms standing in a bucket of wood preserver for a good soak before fixing (once dry and wearing gloves naturally) Cheers JimK That's going to be some bucket as there are four doors with a total width (excluding the frames) of 3m68. About 40 boards, depending on their width. I'm considering Wickes General Purpose Cladding: http://www.wickes.co.uk/General-Purp...ng/invt/128462 Still say shiplap is the better choice :-) Fitted vertically? -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
#14
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Garage doors
In message , The Medway
Handyman writes Peter Twydell wrote: In message , JimK writes On Mar 17, 12:04 am, Peter Twydell wrote: In message , Dave Osborne writes On 15/03/2010 17:45, Peter Twydell wrote: My garage doors (T&G, braced, side hung, south facing, about 10 years old) are looking tatty, and some of the boards are warped. So much so that the staples have pulled out in places and the evil-minded could get in just by pulling the boards off. They appear to be softwood, possibly untreated before they were finished on the outside with some sort stain. The frames are OK, it's just the boards that need replacing. What type of wood would be acceptable, bearing in mind that they have to be stained etc., not painted? OK, I would consider replacing the existing wood like-for-like in western red cedar (as it is inherently rot resistant). Your local timber yard will be able to help. Take a sample of the existing with you. Thanks for a sensible reply. The choice is between western red cedar and softwood (such as floorboards?), which I suppose would need added protection. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! expect softwood will be vastly cheaper tho need the bottoms standing in a bucket of wood preserver for a good soak before fixing (once dry and wearing gloves naturally) Cheers JimK That's going to be some bucket as there are four doors with a total width (excluding the frames) of 3m68. About 40 boards, depending on their width. I'm considering Wickes General Purpose Cladding: http://www.wickes.co.uk/General-Purp...ng/invt/128462 Still say shiplap is the better choice :-) What does it look like fitted vertically? Would you fit it one way round on one door and the opposite way on the other as it's asymmetrical? The Wickes website says to use it horizontally. -- Peter Ying tong iddle-i po! |
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