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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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I have some Grohe jets and a shower arm to fit. The drawings which
come with them indicate that they should be screwed directly into a pipe-end embedded in the wall. There are no written instructions. Could anybody give me advice on this? Look at the fittings, the ends could be screwed into a 22mm pipe which had an thread inside, but they could also attach to a 15mm pipe with a standard compression fitting. Connecting to a pipe embedded in the wall would be neat, but would a standard pipe with a thread cut into it be strong enough to hold a heavy shower arm and head without cracking over time. Is there a special fitting required with the thread? Kevin. |
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In article , Kevin
Murphy writes I have some Grohe jets and a shower arm to fit. The drawings which come with them indicate that they should be screwed directly into a pipe-end embedded in the wall. There are no written instructions. Could anybody give me advice on this? The ones I have (and haven't yet fitted either!) are 1/2" BSP (Brit. Std. Pipe Thread) So is the shower arm, the mixer tap, the divertor valve and the other fittings. The Grohe jets even have a PTFE seal built-in, so no sealing is necessary. To use, go down to your local plumbers' merchant and look at a selection of BRASS, female BSP fittings - elbows and straight. You can get them with flanges to take screws (per standpipe-type outdoor taps) or without, and compression fittings or 15mm solder couplings on the other end. Use whichever suits the application, but remember that well made joints in the wall are paramount. You'll be tiling over/around them, so repairing leaks is a horrid job. For the nicest finish IMHO (YMMV), set the female fitting so that the rim just breaks the surface of the tile line by 1mm or so. It'll be covered by the surround for the fitting (if the shower head's pipe didn't come with one, it should have done), but being slightly proud of the surface helps stop grout, etc. getting stuck in the thread when you're finishing off the tiling. ------q p-------- | | -- | ---/ (there are limits to ASCII art!) When you fit the shower head, wrap the pipe _lots_ with PTFE tape (also from PM) in an anti-clockwise direction, as you look at it from the wall's perspective - so that the tape stays in place whilst you wind the pipe into the 1/2" socket. As I said, if you have the same Grohe squirty bits as I bought, PTFE ought to be unnecessary for them. One final point, pipe thread of most sizes is available in two forms - tapered and straight (parallel sided). I think you want straight for this application - IIRC tapered is usually for cast iron conduit and gas work. Check with the PM - it's what they're there for. If they don't know or are snooty, find another one! Regards, Simonm. -- simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq GT250A'76 R80/RT '86 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/ |
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