I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Jan 18, 5:34 pm, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

can't imagine it'd be critical somehow - whatever is easiest/appeals?

(I'd wager even horizontal would work OK)

JimK

JimK submitted this idea :
On Jan 18, 5:34 pm, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

can't imagine it'd be critical somehow - whatever is easiest/appeals?

(I'd wager even horizontal would work OK)

JimK

I think you might be correct - I can find ready made enamelled flue
angle parts, with an angle of 135 or 90 deg.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On 18 Jan, 18:47, JimK wrote:
On Jan 18, 5:34 pm, Harry Bloomfield

wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

can't imagine it'd be critical somehow - whatever is easiest/appeals?

(I'd wager even horizontal would work OK)

JimK

I suggest you think 45 degrees or steeper, but make provision for
drainage of condensate at the bottom of the outside vertical bit

On Jan 18, 7:41 pm, cynic wrote:
On 18 Jan, 18:47, JimK wrote:



On Jan 18, 5:34 pm, Harry Bloomfield

wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

can't imagine it'd be critical somehow - whatever is easiest/appeals?

(I'd wager even horizontal would work OK)

JimK

I suggest you think 45 degrees or steeper, but make provision for
drainage of condensate at the bottom of the outside vertical bit

.....usually achieved by a T piece on it's side, so condensate/rain/?
gets collected in the lower, bunged portion - bung periodically
removed so condensate etc easily removed.

Also both the vertical and "horizontal" parts of flue easily swept
with this T piece arrangement....similar to a "soot door" in masonry
chimneys.

Cheers
JimK

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to vertical.
Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does anyone have
any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

that's an illegal flue then.

steel box section.

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:15:23 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue.

that's an illegal flue then.

steel box section.

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will. Not sure what you could apply to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Jan 19, 9:30 am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:15:23 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue.

that's an illegal flue then.

steel box section.

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will. Not sure what you could apply to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.


so what is "stove pipe" made of then? it's single skin, cuts with a
hacksaw, 1mm thick, painted with er.. stove paint....er.

Once flue is warm there won't be any flue gas condensation - which
will occur in *any* cold flue at start up...

I agree for longevity mild steel will not last as long as stainless
but for a workshop heater flued "straight outside" surely it'll get
things going for a while?

JimK

JimK wrote on 19/01/2010 :
On Jan 19, 9:30 am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:15:23 +0000, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue.
that's an illegal flue then.

steel box section.

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will. Not sure what you could apply to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.


so what is "stove pipe" made of then? it's single skin, cuts with a
hacksaw, 1mm thick, painted with er.. stove paint....er.

Once flue is warm there won't be any flue gas condensation - which
will occur in *any* cold flue at start up...

I agree for longevity mild steel will not last as long as stainless
but for a workshop heater flued "straight outside" surely it'll get
things going for a while?

It is only for occasional use and it is around 3mm wall x around 75mm
square box. I'm sure with its planned use it will last a lifetime.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
JimK wrote on 19/01/2010 :
On Jan 19, 9:30 am, "Dave Liquorice"

wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:15:23 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue.
that's an illegal flue then.

steel box section.

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust
from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will. Not sure what you could apply
to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.


so what is "stove pipe" made of then? it's single skin, cuts with
a
hacksaw, 1mm thick, painted with er.. stove paint....er.

Once flue is warm there won't be any flue gas condensation - which
will occur in *any* cold flue at start up...

I agree for longevity mild steel will not last as long as
stainless
but for a workshop heater flued "straight outside" surely it'll
get
things going for a while?

It is only for occasional use and it is around 3mm wall x around
75mm
square box. I'm sure with its planned use it will last a lifetime.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Yes, but the regs now insist on a twin wall insulated flue to prevent
condensation - sad isn't it!

AWEM

On 19 Jan, 09:30, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will.

Steel lasts for years and years on workshop stoves. The flues are
short, combustion is inefficient so (if you're burning any resinous
softwood) there's still some happening much of the way up the flue.
Your problem there is more likely a glowing red flue, not a rusted out
one.

Not sure what you could apply to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.

Graphite grate polish. Aerosol exhaust / engine block paint.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 19 Jan, 09:30, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Shouldn't worry, mild steel won't last long anyway. If the rust from
the outside doesn't get it, the corrosion from the condensed flue
gases inside the single skin will.

Steel lasts for years and years on workshop stoves. The flues are
short, combustion is inefficient so (if you're burning any resinous
softwood) there's still some happening much of the way up the flue.
Your problem there is more likely a glowing red flue, not a rusted out
one.

seen that before. Quite alarming. As it sxited sdtraihjt througjh a
wooden roof..


Not sure what you could apply to
mild steel that would take the heat to protect the outside.

Graphite grate polish. Aerosol exhaust / engine block paint.

Nothing.

Its bloody dangerous to use it. Even cast iron will crack.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just collected
some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to rise vertically
then dog leg out through the wall then back to vertical. Obviously the
horizontal section cannot be level, so does anyone have any clues as to the
angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Are you going to do any pictures of this heater? Please.

Adam

ARWadsworth expressed precisely :
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just collected
some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to rise vertically
then dog leg out through the wall then back to vertical. Obviously the
horizontal section cannot be level, so does anyone have any clues as to the
angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

-- Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Are you going to do any pictures of this heater? Please.

Yes I will do some photos, but you will need to be patient - it is a
slow job.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
ARWadsworth expressed precisely :
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to
vertical. Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does
anyone have any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

-- Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Are you going to do any pictures of this heater? Please.

Yes I will do some photos, but you will need to be patient - it is a
slow job.

I must clean my glasses, I red that as a blow job, hot lips :-)

Dave

Dave wrote :
Harry Bloomfield wrote:
ARWadsworth expressed precisely :
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just collected
some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to rise
vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to vertical.
Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does anyone have any
clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

-- Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk



Are you going to do any pictures of this heater? Please.

Yes I will do some photos, but you will need to be patient - it is a slow
job.

I must clean my glasses, I red that as a blow job, hot lips :-)

:-)

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
I have now made the gas bottle/ pot belly stove and I have just
collected some box section mild steel for its flue. The flue needs to
rise vertically then dog leg out through the wall then back to vertical.
Obviously the horizontal section cannot be level, so does anyone have
any clues as to the angle it should be?

I fancy I read somewhere 60 degrees, but I may well be wrong.

I'm not sure I understand this. Are you saying that you have made a
stove out of a gas bottle, or it is shaped like one, or that it will be
fired by a gas bottle? Sorry, I've got a thick head with catarrh at the
moment.

What fuel will it be burning?

Dave

Dave laid this down on his screen :
I'm not sure I understand this. Are you saying that you have made a stove out
of a gas bottle, or it is shaped like one, or that it will be fired by a gas
bottle? Sorry, I've got a thick head with catarrh at the moment.

What fuel will it be burning?

It made out of an old gas bottle, a bit like a pot belly stove.

It is intended to be multi-fuel, scrap wood and waste oil.

Here are a few URL's I have come across...

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/sho...41&postcount=6

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/s...ead.php?t=7807

http://www.jarkman.co.uk/catalog/furnitur/jhrstove.htm

http://www.ludlowsurvivors.com/stove.html

http://www.bikerlifestyle.co.uk/tech...op/heater.html

and the only one I could find with regards to the burning of waste
oil...

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me4.html

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Jan 20, 12:12 am, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel_...earth/me4.html

the research & adaptations to that design (linked to from the above
link) were interesting IMHO...

looking forward to further posts/ test results etc

Cheers
JimK