Standard method is to fill gaps around frame with expanding foam, then
a frame sealant on the outside.
But, what is the trick to foam the windows and leave the foam 5mm
below the surface in order to receive a sensible sized bead of frame
sealant ?
AFAICS, the foam will overflow at least slightly and stick to the
frame and bricks such that cutting it back will leave residue. You
could tape / mask off the window frame OK, but this would be tricky
for the bricks which do not present a contrinuous surface with the
mortar beds etc.
I don't want to stick on white cover strips which look crap.
So whats the trick to doing this ?
Cheers,
Simon.

sm_jamieson
wibbled on Wednesday 13 January 2010 15:48

Standard method is to fill gaps around frame with expanding foam, then
a frame sealant on the outside.
But, what is the trick to foam the windows and leave the foam 5mm
below the surface in order to receive a sensible sized bead of frame
sealant ?
AFAICS, the foam will overflow at least slightly and stick to the
frame and bricks such that cutting it back will leave residue. You
could tape / mask off the window frame OK, but this would be tricky
for the bricks which do not present a contrinuous surface with the
mortar beds etc.
I don't want to stick on white cover strips which look crap.
So whats the trick to doing this ?
Cheers,
Simon.

When I did mine, I tried to go easy on the foam, inserting the tip of the
nozzle into the gap. I also foamed from both sides as the plaster was
stripped back inside.

Obviously, try not to foam level with the frame as it will expend further.

But, if it does extrude outwards, I found that being semi gone off in this
state, it didn't adhere so much to the bricks not did it get stuck to the
front surface of the frame. Masking tape if practical will certainly protect
the frame and the bricks from accidental contact and a fine wire brush (fine
bronze coloured jobbies) can take most of the residue of a rough finished
brick OK and a screwdriver can be used with care for minor cleanup (don't
obviously do this on the face of uPVC)

After 24 hours, I used a screwdriver just to scrape back the foam so it was
a few mm undercut and applied sealant - the latter I found vastly more
fiddly as there's not much latitude for error nor using Fugenboys when you
have rustic faced bricks!

--
Tim Watts

Icicles - nature's way of pinpointing all the leaks in your guttering...

On 13 Jan, 15:57, Tim W wrote:
sm_jamieson
* wibbled on Wednesday 13 January 2010 15:48

Standard method is to fill gaps around frame with expanding foam, then
a frame sealant on the outside.
But, what is the trick to foam the windows and leave the foam 5mm
below the surface in order to receive a sensible sized bead of frame
sealant ?
AFAICS, the foam will overflow at least slightly and stick to the
frame and bricks such that cutting it back will leave residue. You
could tape / mask off the window frame OK, but this would be tricky
for the bricks which do not present a contrinuous surface with the
mortar beds etc.
I don't want to stick on white cover strips which look crap.
So whats the trick to doing this ?
Cheers,
Simon.

When I did mine, I tried to go easy on the foam, inserting the tip of the
nozzle into the gap. I also foamed from both sides as the plaster was
stripped back inside.

Obviously, try not to foam level with the frame as it will expend further..

But, if it does extrude outwards, I found that being semi gone off in this
state, it didn't adhere so much to the bricks not did it get stuck to the
front surface of the frame. Masking tape if practical will certainly protect
the frame and the bricks from accidental contact and a fine wire brush (fine
bronze coloured jobbies) can take most of the residue of a rough finished
brick OK and a screwdriver can be used with care for minor cleanup (don't
obviously do this on the face of uPVC)

After 24 hours, I used a screwdriver just to scrape back the foam so it was
a few mm undercut and applied sealant - the latter I found vastly more
fiddly as there's not much latitude for error nor using Fugenboys when you
have rustic faced bricks!

Thanks for that. Luckily I have smooth bricks.
I've also got a pro foam gun this time, and low expansion foam, so I
can do a few tests and get used to how much the foam expands.
Simon.

sm_jamieson
wibbled on Wednesday 13 January 2010 16:32


Thanks for that. Luckily I have smooth bricks.
I've also got a pro foam gun this time, and low expansion foam, so I
can do a few tests and get used to how much the foam expands.
Simon.

OK, because you can, use masking tape. Try to get the wet foam around
1/4-1/2" back from the final surface. That should make scraping back simple
and not leave too big a gap to fill with sealant.

--
Tim Watts

Icicles - nature's way of pinpointing all the leaks in your guttering...

sm_jamieson wrote:
On 13 Jan, 15:57, Tim W wrote:
sm_jamieson
wibbled on Wednesday 13 January 2010 15:48

Standard method is to fill gaps around frame with expanding foam, then
a frame sealant on the outside.
But, what is the trick to foam the windows and leave the foam 5mm
below the surface in order to receive a sensible sized bead of frame
sealant ?
AFAICS, the foam will overflow at least slightly and stick to the
frame and bricks such that cutting it back will leave residue. You
could tape / mask off the window frame OK, but this would be tricky
for the bricks which do not present a contrinuous surface with the
mortar beds etc.
I don't want to stick on white cover strips which look crap.
So whats the trick to doing this ?
Cheers,
Simon.
When I did mine, I tried to go easy on the foam, inserting the tip of the
nozzle into the gap. I also foamed from both sides as the plaster was
stripped back inside.

Obviously, try not to foam level with the frame as it will expend further.

But, if it does extrude outwards, I found that being semi gone off in this
state, it didn't adhere so much to the bricks not did it get stuck to the
front surface of the frame. Masking tape if practical will certainly protect
the frame and the bricks from accidental contact and a fine wire brush (fine
bronze coloured jobbies) can take most of the residue of a rough finished
brick OK and a screwdriver can be used with care for minor cleanup (don't
obviously do this on the face of uPVC)

After 24 hours, I used a screwdriver just to scrape back the foam so it was
a few mm undercut and applied sealant - the latter I found vastly more
fiddly as there's not much latitude for error nor using Fugenboys when you
have rustic faced bricks!

Thanks for that. Luckily I have smooth bricks.
I've also got a pro foam gun this time, and low expansion foam, so I
can do a few tests and get used to how much the foam expands.
Simon.


According to our DG fitter the foam gun is "the secret". He reckons you
can tell a d-i-y job by the orange foam residue on the wall.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:16:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

According to our DG fitter the foam gun is "the secret". He reckons you
can tell a d-i-y job by the orange foam residue on the wall.

But what if the d-i-y'er is using a Pro Gun?

Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:16:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

According to our DG fitter the foam gun is "the secret". He reckons you
can tell a d-i-y job by the orange foam residue on the wall.

But what if the d-i-y'er is using a Pro Gun?

He reckons it's more controllable because at least some of the expansion
takes place before it leaves the gun

On Jan 14, 9:55 am, Stuart Noble wrote:
Usenet Nutter wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 17:16:18 GMT, Stuart Noble
wrote:

According to our DG fitter the foam gun is "the secret". He reckons you
can tell a d-i-y job by the orange foam residue on the wall.

But what if the d-i-y'er is using a Pro Gun?

He reckons it's more controllable because at least some of the expansion
takes place before it leaves the gun

mmm... more like practice makes more perfect

OP - white spirit will help clean it off hands and frames whilst it's
wet (unset) - though getting it off masonry could be interesting.

JimK