Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber (friend
of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've tracked the
problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get here until
after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I do have a
couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just the
motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have to get
the whole assembly

2. If the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to get
the same make/model

Cheers

Jim

"Jim" wrote in message
...
Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber (friend
of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've tracked the
problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get here until
after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I do have a
couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just
the motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have to
get the whole assembly

2. If the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to
get the same make/model

Depends on the make and model of the valve.
On some you can remove and replace the motor.
If so you will need one which is specific to the make and model of your
valve.

In the short term you can normally open the motorised valve using a
mechanical lever which sits between the motor and the valve, and lock the
valve in the 'open' position.

This will keep the heating on whenever the pump is running but seems to be a
reasonable fix to see you over Christmas.

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...

"Jim" wrote in message
...
Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber
(friend of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've
tracked the problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get
here until after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I
do have a couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just
the motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have
to get the whole assembly

2. If the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to
get the same make/model

Depends on the make and model of the valve.
On some you can remove and replace the motor.
If so you will need one which is specific to the make and model of your
valve.

In the short term you can normally open the motorised valve using a
mechanical lever which sits between the motor and the valve, and lock the
valve in the 'open' position.

This will keep the heating on whenever the pump is running but seems to be
a reasonable fix to see you over Christmas.

Thanks David

I've already locked the valve open and turned the the thermostat on the HW
tank to max to get the heating on.

The valve is a Honeywell one, but can't see an obvious model number.

If I do need to replace the whole valve and motor assembly what do I need to
drain down - is it just the CH system or do I need to empty the HW tank as
well. (It's is a sealed/direct system with no CW tank and mains pressure HW.
There are 2 x 2way motorised valves)

Cheers

Jim

On 16 Dec, 18:47, "Jim" wrote:
Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber (friend
of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've tracked the
problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get here until
after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I do have a
couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just the
motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have to get
the whole assembly

2. If *the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to get
the same make/model

Cheers

Jim

Is there a makers name and part number on the valve?
Most valves use a standard synchron motor but a few use a different
design just to make life awkward.
A standard synchron motor is cheap and if you are not wearing boxing
gloves not too hard to swap just dont drop small screws down between
floorboards. You normally don't need any special tools beyond
screwdrivers and maybe long nosed pliers to swap the motor but its
easier if you can remove the powerhead from the valve. (Some but not
all can be removed without a drain down).
Oh and dont forget to isolate the electrical supply or you will get
the little men up your arm!

Jim submitted this idea :
If I do need to replace the whole valve and motor assembly what do I need to
drain down - is it just the CH system or do I need to empty the HW tank as
well. (It's is a sealed/direct system with no CW tank and mains pressure HW.
There are 2 x 2way motorised valves)

The valve motorised heads usually come off by undoing the two screws in
the corners. If you release the head and check the valve spindle below
it, it should turn with slightly more than finger grip/gentle plier
use. If it does that OK, then it just needs a new head and no need to
drain.

Micro switches and motors are both replaceable parts for the heads and
much cheaper than replacing the complete head. I keep one on, one
repaired and ready to fit when the duty head fails.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:13:40 -0000
"Jim" wrote:


"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...

"Jim" wrote in message
...
Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber
(friend of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've
tracked the problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get
here until after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I
do have a couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just
the motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have
to get the whole assembly

2. If the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to
get the same make/model

Depends on the make and model of the valve.
On some you can remove and replace the motor.
If so you will need one which is specific to the make and model of your
valve.

In the short term you can normally open the motorised valve using a
mechanical lever which sits between the motor and the valve, and lock the
valve in the 'open' position.

This will keep the heating on whenever the pump is running but seems to be
a reasonable fix to see you over Christmas.

Thanks David

I've already locked the valve open and turned the the thermostat on the HW
tank to max to get the heating on.

The valve is a Honeywell one, but can't see an obvious model number.

If I do need to replace the whole valve and motor assembly what do I need to
drain down - is it just the CH system or do I need to empty the HW tank as
well. (It's is a sealed/direct system with no CW tank and mains pressure HW.
There are 2 x 2way motorised valves)

Cheers

Jim



Honeywell valves are usually able to have just the motor head replaced.
Is it three port or two port? If it's two port then it's most likely a
V4043H, if 3, then V4073A. Google will help.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heat.../sd3232/p77604

You should be able to get these at any plumber's merchant, but maybe
not at Toolstation prices.

R.

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
Jim submitted this idea :
If I do need to replace the whole valve and motor assembly what do I need
to drain down - is it just the CH system or do I need to empty the HW
tank as well. (It's is a sealed/direct system with no CW tank and mains
pressure HW. There are 2 x 2way motorised valves)

The valve motorised heads usually come off by undoing the two screws in
the corners. If you release the head and check the valve spindle below it,
it should turn with slightly more than finger grip/gentle plier use. If it
does that OK, then it just needs a new head and no need to drain.

Micro switches and motors are both replaceable parts for the heads and
much cheaper than replacing the complete head. I keep one on, one repaired
and ready to fit when the duty head fails.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk


Thanks Harry

Any tips on how I identify if it's the motor or micro switch that has failed
?

Cheers

Jim

On Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:05:54 -0000, Jim wrote:

Any tips on how I identify if it's the motor or micro switch that has
failed ?

Take the cover off and power the system with a deman for heating you
should be able to see and hear (quietly) the motor running. One of
mine sometimes doesn't have enough grunt to operate the switch but
has opened fully. A strip down clean and light regrease cures it. You
should also be able to hear the valve "run back" when you de-power it
after it has been powered for say 30s or so.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Jim used his keyboard to write :
Thanks Harry

Any tips on how I identify if it's the motor or micro switch that has failed
?

You will need a multimeter and the knowledge to use it.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Jim" wrote in message
...
Hi all, got home tonight to find the CH wasn't working. My plumber (friend
of a friend) talked me through a couple of tests and we've tracked the
problem to a knackered motorised valve. The plumber can't get here until
after Xmas but I think this is a job I can tackle myself but I do have a
couple of questions

1. As the valve itself would appear to be working I'm assuming it's just
the motor bit that's kaput. Can I buy the motor separately or do I have to
get the whole assembly

2. If the motors are available are they all the same or will I need to
get the same make/model

With many makes you can buy a new head and just swop it.
If not, most use the same motor which can be replaced

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heat...es/d230/sd3232

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heat.../sd2708/p38289

Its not difficult if you have access but they are mains voltage! (there are
a few 12V/24V ones about but I have never seen one).

Cheers

Jim

Bumping old thread.

Had to replace a Honeywell 2 port valve today for a second time in 6 months, both times the microswitch burnt out. Found the cause of the problem at visit today - water leak from 28mm ball valve at pump above. Will fix that but considering repairing the motorised head I removed today, by replacing the microswitch and keeping the unit as a spare. Anyone done this and have a link to the correct switch? The wires appear to be internally connected into the switch at the factory (no spade connectors). Not sure if you can buy like this and join the wires or if the exact thing with spades exists and is compatible?

Although I see Toolstation now do Corgi heads for under £30 and say they fit honeywell valves. At that price, prob not worth doing the repair... Anyone know if Corgi heads are good?

Cheers
Mark

On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:08:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Will fix that but considering repairing the motorised head I removed
today, by replacing the microswitch and keeping the unit as a spare.
Anyone done this and have a link to the correct switch?

Yes, had a switch fail in a V4043, it's a standard electronics part,
of the V3 type IIRC. Costs a couple of quid.

The wires appear to be internally connected into the switch at the
factory (no spade connectors). Not sure if you can buy like this and
join the wires or if the exact thing with spades exists and is
compatible?

You'll probably be buying a spade one and soldering the wires on. I
also have vague memories of having to trim one or more of the spades
but I see that solder versions are available with shorter tabs.

If your soldering skills are up to it (ie quick and neat) then you
spend more time stripping down and rebuilding than replacing the
switch.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Thu, 20 Feb 2014 09:08:01 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Bumping old thread.

Had to replace a Honeywell 2 port valve today for a second time in 6 months, both times the microswitch burnt out. Found the cause of the problem at visit today - water leak from 28mm ball valve at pump above. Will fix that but considering repairing the motorised head I removed today, by replacing the microswitch and keeping the unit as a spare. Anyone done this and have a link to the correct switch? The wires appear to be internally connected into the switch at the factory (no spade connectors). Not sure if you can buy like this and join the wires or if the exact thing with spades exists and is compatible?

Although I see Toolstation now do Corgi heads for under £30 and say they fit honeywell valves. At that price, prob not worth doing the repair... Anyone know if Corgi heads are good?

Cheers
Mark

My Honeywell valves are from about 1978 and don't even have
replaceable heads, but otherwise are almost the same as modern ones.
I have replaced the micro switches in each of them at least once, and
used ones from scrap microwave oven door interlocks.

The synchronous motors have also failed a time or two, and they can be
had cheaply from the usual plumbing suppliers.

Yes, had a switch fail in a V4043, it's a standard electronics part,

of the V3 type IIRC. Costs a couple of quid.

Thanks Dave, good stuff, if you come across any links or anywhere to buy the shorter tab solder version, would appreciate, save me ordering the wrong thing.