Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I forgotten/underestimated/
failed to appreciate etc--- you get the picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

On Dec 12, 4:20 pm, JimK realised the
subject was naff so changed it

JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I
forgotten/underestimated/ failed to appreciate etc--- you get the
picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK


How wide is the overall path? - could you not do one full length track, rope
it off and allow drivers to use the other part of the path, then do the
other one a week later when the first has cured?

Steel plate will have to be at least 8mm, and thats gonna be expensive


--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On Dec 12, 5:17 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I
forgotten/underestimated/ failed to appreciate etc--- you get the
picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

How wide is the overall path? - could you not do one full length track, rope
it off and allow drivers to use the other part of the path, then do the
other one a week later when the first has cured?

not wide enough afraid.

Steel plate will have to be at least 8mm, and thats gonna be expensive

how much is expensive?

I'm imagining 18" wide X "liftable lengths" - load 500kgs say (2t /4
wheels) spread over contact patch of average car tyre (4"x2"?) ... a
few vehicle movements a day....it will have curing concrete right
under it too.....

Cheers
JimK

On Dec 12, 7:13 pm, JimK wrote:
On Dec 12, 5:17 pm, "Phil L" wrote:



JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I
forgotten/underestimated/ failed to appreciate etc--- you get the
picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

How wide is the overall path? - could you not do one full length track, rope
it off and allow drivers to use the other part of the path, then do the
other one a week later when the first has cured?

not wide enough afraid.

Steel plate will have to be at least 8mm, and thats gonna be expensive

how much is expensive?

I'm imagining 18" wide X "liftable lengths" - load 500kgs say (2t /4
wheels) spread over contact patch of average car tyre (4"x2"?) ... a
few vehicle movements a day....it will have curing concrete right
under it too.....

Cheers
JimK

extra rad thought - timber top? ply? how thick rqd?

cheers
JimK

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 12 December 2009 19:13

On Dec 12, 5:17 pm, "Phil L" wrote:

How wide is the overall path? - could you not do one full length track,
rope it off and allow drivers to use the other part of the path, then do
the other one a week later when the first has cured?

not wide enough afraid.

Is it not wide enough to set one track at a time, allowing vehicles to drive
straddling it, then the other track with the vehicles straddling that one?

Or is this road just a vehicle width?

Off the wall idea:

Could you work with a "precast" approach? Cast the tracks in the centre of
the road, including reinforcing mesh, then slide them across by the 2-3'
required to have them in the correct place? That will limit you to perhaps
2-3m cast lengths.

Assuming you were planning on having a digger handy for trenching with the
direct pour approach, the digger might be able to drag and drop them into
the trenches that you cut at the end. Disadvantage: you need to either cast
flat and trench flat so the strips bed well enough, or line the trench with
some sand and be fairly confident of bedding them. 2nd disadvantage - lots
of joints.

Dunno - maybe there are improvements to that silly suggestion that might
lead to something that would work?


Steel plate will have to be at least 8mm, and thats gonna be expensive

how much is expensive?

I'm imagining 18" wide X "liftable lengths" - load 500kgs say (2t /4
wheels) spread over contact patch of average car tyre (4"x2"?) ... a
few vehicle movements a day....it will have curing concrete right
under it too.....

Cheers
JimK

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Dec 12, 7:36 pm, Tim W wrote:

Or is this road just a vehicle width?

yup single track - just!

Off the wall idea:

Could you work with a "precast" approach? Cast the tracks in the centre of
the road, including reinforcing mesh, then slide them across by the 2-3'
required to have them in the correct place? That will limit you to perhaps
2-3m cast lengths.

Assuming you were planning on having a digger handy for trenching with the
direct pour approach, the digger might be able to drag and drop them into
the trenches that you cut at the end. Disadvantage: you need to either cast
flat and trench flat so the strips bed well enough, or line the trench with
some sand and be fairly confident of bedding them.

mmm I'd not thought of exactly that approach (i.e. using centre) but
was hoping to avoid digger expenses altogether plus problem of what to
with (almost) perfectly good MOT etc that will be generated - it;s a
perfect sub base for concrete after all !!
also casting in situ will (i hope) ensure "perfect" contact with the
minor undulations of the current surface thus minimising early
cracking/failure etc?

2nd disadvantage - lots of joints.

er not sure... I was kind of expecting them to be needed re expansion?
- and they would be there anyway if I proceed with my rough plan A of
little and often....

Dunno - maybe there are improvements to that silly suggestion that might
lead to something that would work?

cheers
JimK

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 12 December 2009 20:06

On Dec 12, 7:36 pm, Tim W wrote:

Or is this road just a vehicle width?

yup single track - just!

Off the wall idea:

Could you work with a "precast" approach? Cast the tracks in the centre
of the road, including reinforcing mesh, then slide them across by the
2-3' required to have them in the correct place? That will limit you to
perhaps 2-3m cast lengths.

Assuming you were planning on having a digger handy for trenching with
the direct pour approach, the digger might be able to drag and drop them
into the trenches that you cut at the end. Disadvantage: you need to
either cast flat and trench flat so the strips bed well enough, or line
the trench with some sand and be fairly confident of bedding them.

mmm I'd not thought of exactly that approach (i.e. using centre) but
was hoping to avoid digger expenses altogether plus problem of what to
with (almost) perfectly good MOT etc that will be generated - it;s a
perfect sub base for concrete after all !!
also casting in situ will (i hope) ensure "perfect" contact with the
minor undulations of the current surface thus minimising early
cracking/failure etc?

It's unlikely to fail if you drop a bit of bar in it as you go (I thought
about mesh, but a couple of lenghts of light rebar would probably be good
enough). But of course, it's all more complications.

Anyway, if you don't want a digger, then it will be painful sliding what are
basically large cast beams around.

2nd disadvantage - lots of joints.

er not sure... I was kind of expecting them to be needed re expansion?
- and they would be there anyway if I proceed with my rough plan A of
little and often....

True

So in all, you are planning on pouring concrete on top rather than flush
with the existing roadway? That makes a difference...

Just to clarify - how long could you hold off vehicle traffic after each
pour? How long could you avoid anything larger than a car? You might get
away with a car on top relatively quickly. 10 tons of fuel oil laden tanker
would be different though.


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

"JimK" wrote in message
...

mmm I'd not thought of exactly that approach (i.e. using centre) but
was hoping to avoid digger expenses altogether plus problem of what to
with (almost) perfectly good MOT etc that will be generated - it;s a
perfect sub base for concrete after all !!

Are you sure the problem isn't a lack of compaction on the MOT?
Have you run a road roller over it?

On 12 Dec, 16:20, JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I forgotten/underestimated/
failed to appreciate etc--- you get the picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

As a rider, I'm delighted that you are not proposing to make the whole
width of bridleway into a solid concrete road. Horse traffic is best
provided for by a firm but yielding surface. Concrete or tarmac do not
make for compatibility with hooves.

On Dec 12, 5:29 pm, cynic wrote:
On 12 Dec, 16:20, JimK wrote:



Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I forgotten/underestimated/
failed to appreciate etc--- you get the picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

As a rider, I'm delighted that you are not proposing to make the whole
width of bridleway into a solid concrete road. Horse traffic is best
provided for by a firm but yielding surface. Concrete or tarmac do not
make for compatibility with hooves.


mmm I shall have to point out to those equine riding whingers the
favour I am doing them!

The project should hopefully curtail the "free for all gallop" that
seems to be a regular abuse by some riiders judging by the hoof marks/
divots......

JimK

JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

trying to mix 15m3 of concrete manually is a thankless task, readymixed is
the way to go, but this is likely to cost you over a grand



2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

you can run a spade along the sharp edge and round it off a bit.


4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.


4 inch will probably be ok, but I'd get some thin steel reinforcing in it,
just to give you a few extra years

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

you can run a jointer across it before it finishes curing, to give it some
'joints', but trying to mould any kind of pattern onto the face would be
time consuming and probably a waste of time as I wouldn't expect it to last
very long.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On Dec 12, 4:20*pm, JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I forgotten/underestimated/
failed to appreciate etc--- you get the picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK


Anyone know if this is workable?

Is there any possibility of repairing the MOT1 where needed, rolling
or whacking it, then pouring a binder on/in? Such as cement slurry or
tar. Then adding a tar topcoat to stop rain saturating and freezing.

There's then need to close off road access for curing. Also no need to
but the sand or stone parts of the concrete. A 3rd is far less and
easier mixing.


NT

NT
wibbled on Saturday 12 December 2009 22:22

Anyone know if this is workable?

Is there any possibility of repairing the MOT1 where needed, rolling
or whacking it, then pouring a binder on/in? Such as cement slurry or
tar. Then adding a tar topcoat to stop rain saturating and freezing.

There's then need to close off road access for curing. Also no need to
but the sand or stone parts of the concrete. A 3rd is far less and
easier mixing.


NT

Now that you mention it, perhaps spraying with tar would be an option. As
long as there is a clean (ie un muddy) top layer, then it will tend to
create a weak tarmac (weak because it won't get fully between the rocks, but
it out to generally bind them).

However, if the OP can't keep MOT down, I'm assuming that the underying
ground is very unstable?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Dec 12, 11:32*pm, Tim W wrote:
NT
* wibbled on Saturday 12 December 2009 22:22

Anyone know if this is workable?

Is there any possibility of repairing the MOT1 where needed, rolling
or whacking it, then pouring a binder on/in? Such as cement slurry or
tar. Then adding a tar topcoat to stop rain saturating and freezing.

There's then need to close off road access for curing. Also no need to
but the sand or stone parts of the concrete. A 3rd is far less and
easier mixing.

NT

Now that you mention it, perhaps spraying with tar would be an option. As
long as there is a clean (ie un muddy) top layer, then it will tend to
create a weak tarmac (weak because it won't get fully between the rocks, but
it out to generally bind them).

However, if the OP can't keep MOT down, I'm assuming that the underying
ground is very unstable?

I suppose really the only permanent solution is to dig the road up and
lay enough depth of hardcore and MOT1, roller it, then add tarmac.
Anything less will break up sooner or later. Its a life versus budget
call. Concrete roads do last decades, but there's no chance of
vehicles passing for days.


NT

Plastic mesh with grass?
Basically something to bind the MOT together, paying for concrete is a
lot of effort, money & future expensive repairs (just pushes the
repairs further apart).

On Dec 12, 11:37 pm, "js.b1" wrote:
Plastic mesh with grass?

you seen how much they want for it?!?!

Basically something to bind the MOT together, paying for concrete is a
lot of effort, money & future expensive repairs (just pushes the
repairs further apart).

sounds OK to me :))

JimK

JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I
forgotten/underestimated/ failed to appreciate etc--- you get the
picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

You could dig out one track the full length of the pathway (assuming you
are using a digger?) in the AM, get 7.5m3 of readymixed poured in the
afternoon and cast the whole track in one pour, preferably at dusk (is it
used at night at all?) it'll be cured enough to drive over within 24 hours.
If the path belongs to you, you can close it off completely, but this means
the postman, milkman etc would have to leave your deliveries somewhere else

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On Dec 14, 4:10 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
JimK wrote:
Next spring I'm going to have to revisit the access track/bridleway
which is deteriorating again despite regular topping up with MOT.

So thinking of casting in situ two 18 inch wide concrete "tank tracks"
for 150m!

Challenges will include:

1 keeping costs down.. mixing own concrete, doing a "section" at a
time.... or sod it and try and do 4m3 runs at once with small ready
mix trucks?

2 Keeping access open (incl vehicles) during concrete cure stages:-
Road forms or equivalent pegged for sides and a (possibly bolted down)
steel plate top for wheeled traffic whilst initial curing takes place
- how thick a plate? thinner is cheaper and easier, but at what
thinness will it bend/buckle and backfire??

3 Shaping the concrete to avoid sharp corner edges (horses etc) -
perhaps some sort of curved top (in section) road forms, or similar or
fabricate something to do the job... or will I be able to simply knock
the sharp edges off with a big hammer after a few days curing when
"mould" removed?

4 Do i need reinforcement? plan on 4inch average concrete depth for
cars, tranny vans, small oil tankers.

5 Any way I could easily replicate (or just give a passing impression
of) stone flags as I cast it? (other parts of the track have these
still in situ - it would be "nice" to give a nod to the vernacular..)

what does the group think? do-able? what've I
forgotten/underestimated/ failed to appreciate etc--- you get the
picture - Help!!

Cheers
JimK

You could dig out one track the full length of the pathway (assuming you
are using a digger?) in the AM, get 7.5m3 of readymixed poured in the
afternoon and cast the whole track in one pour, preferably at dusk (is it
used at night at all?) it'll be cured enough to drive over within 24 hours.
If the path belongs to you, you can close it off completely, but this means
the postman, milkman etc would have to leave your deliveries somewhere else

mmm yeah - xcept there are a few issues that make that un/hard
workable - not least the bridleway status - can you shut a bridleway
for 24 hours without notice? what's the penalty?

Cheers
JimK

JimK wrote:

mmm yeah - xcept there are a few issues that make that un/hard
workable - not least the bridleway status - can you shut a bridleway
for 24 hours without notice? what's the penalty?

Cheers
JimK

I think your first port of call should be your district council, they may be
able to help you with legal notices in the local rag if they are required,
or even chip in towards it's upkeep.

I certainly wouldn't be spending thousands without checking some basic facts
first

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

JimK wrote:
....
mmm yeah - xcept there are a few issues that make that un/hard
workable - not least the bridleway status - can you shut a bridleway
for 24 hours without notice?

No, but you can close it temporarily if you issue the proper notices. As
Phil says, your local aauthority can advise you on that.

Colin Bignell