I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create this.
Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation. But
our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly happening.
Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on damp days when its
cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of heating on.

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its spreading to
the bedrooms and dining room.

We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We have
done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop global warming
and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was then we
started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

Its so bad now I can dry clothes and put them in the airing cupboard and
they get damp again. If I leave them out to air , even then they get a cold
feeling. The beds worse. I put dry sheets and duvet on it and they get
damp during the day , so the bed has to be stripped and aired every day and
that doesn't do much really either. Its just damp.

I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this when all
the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making the house cold
or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air outside? Whilst
opening a window can help it doesnt cure the problem and the house then gets
cold. It doesn't help with its raining though.

I just don't know what to do. OH is burying head in sand ( I guess he
doesn't know either ) and I am left being constantly ill .

I had pneumonia and suffer with my chest and have scars on my lungs as a
result and really do need to be warm without it costing too much and not
damp.

Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet and
they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal things - they
pick the water up but need changing every day). I had thought of a
dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time too too.

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if that
helps.

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create this.
Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation. But
our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly
happening. Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on damp
days when its cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of heating on.

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its spreading
to the bedrooms and dining room.

We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We have
done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop global warming
and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was then
we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

Its so bad now I can dry clothes and put them in the airing cupboard and
they get damp again. If I leave them out to air , even then they get a
cold feeling. The beds worse. I put dry sheets and duvet on it and they
get damp during the day , so the bed has to be stripped and aired every
day and that doesn't do much really either. Its just damp.

I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this when
all the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making the house
cold or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air outside?
Whilst opening a window can help it doesnt cure the problem and the house
then gets cold. It doesn't help with its raining though.

I just don't know what to do. OH is burying head in sand ( I guess he
doesn't know either ) and I am left being constantly ill .

I had pneumonia and suffer with my chest and have scars on my lungs as a
result and really do need to be warm without it costing too much and not
damp.

Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet and
they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal things -
they pick the water up but need changing every day). I had thought of a
dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time too too.

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.

Should add we are all electric. No gas to the house and the fireplaces were
bricked up when the central heating was put in back in the 1970's ( before
we brought it) . Hence its expensive to heat when its so damp. Double
glazing went in during the early 1980's ( should we be replacing it?).
But as I said, the problem has only started in the last two/ three years.

Thanks for any suggestions and advice.

whiskeyomega pretended :
Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet and
they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal things - they
pick the water up but need changing every day). I had thought of a
dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time too too.

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if that
helps.

Double glazed, insulated loft, but have you considered cavity wall
insulation?

An automatic dehumidifier will make a lot of difference and they are
not that expensive to run - much cheaper than heating the place and
opening windows to clear the damp and dry air always feels warmer than
moist air. Fit lids on pans when cooking, fit an automatic humidity
operated fan in the bathroom, fit a cooker hood extracting to the
outside and use it when cooking. Don't dry clothes indoors, or at least
dry them in a well ventilated area.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message
. uk...
whiskeyomega pretended :


The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.

Double glazed, insulated loft, but have you considered cavity wall
insulation?

WE have cavity wall insulation too . I have been told to put more insulation
in the loft ( new regulations about loft insulation but to be honest, if
this is condensation and a lack of bentilation, I dont see how stuffing the
house more full of things to stop the air circulation will help. So I want
to sort the current problem first. In fact I have been wondering if we have
to much insularion?


Fit lids on pans when cooking, fit an automatic humidity

I alread do that. I have never cooked without lids on pans - and I dont do
that much cooking anyway. Probably far less than most. I may have the oven
on for less than 20 mins an night and the microwave on for ten minutes.

operated fan in the bathroom, fit a cooker hood extracting to the outside
and use it when cooking.

Got them both and I almost permanently have windows open too in bathroom and
kitchen.

Don't dry clothes indoors, or at least
dry them in a well ventilated area.

I dont dry clothes indoors. I have a washer dryer. I run the tumble dryer
only when the waether is so bad I have to ( its a modern one that condenses
the steam and sends it down the waste pipe) )

.. I only wash once a week. I dry on the line outside when the weather
allows. In fact, my washing machine ( facy programmed job) has just packed
up because of the damp getting to its computerised board.

Is there anything else I can do? Short of move that is - and how do you sell
a damp house?

On Nov 1, 9:43*am, "whiskeyomega" wrote:
"Harry Bloomfield" wrote in message

. uk...

whiskeyomega pretended :

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, * rural *area, *detached, *if
that helps.

Double glazed, insulated loft, but have you considered cavity wall
insulation?

WE have cavity wall insulation too . I have been told to put more insulation
in the loft ( new regulations about loft insulation but to be honest, if
this is condensation *and a lack of bentilation, I dont see how stuffing the
house more full of things to stop the air circulation will help. *So I *want
to sort the current problem first. In fact I have been wondering if we have
to much insularion?



*Fit lids on pans when cooking, fit an automatic humidity

I alread do that. I have never cooked without *lids on pans - and I dont do
that much cooking anyway. *Probably far less than most. *I may have the oven
on for less than 20 mins an night and the microwave on for ten minutes.

operated fan in the bathroom, fit a cooker hood extracting to the outside
and use it when cooking.

Got them both and I almost permanently have windows open too in bathroom and
kitchen.

*Don't dry clothes indoors, or at least

dry them in a well ventilated area.

I dont dry clothes indoors. I have a washer dryer. I run the tumble dryer
only when the waether is so bad I have to ( its a modern one that condenses
the steam and sends it down the waste pipe) * )

. I only wash once a week. I dry on the line outside when the weather
allows. * In fact, my washing machine ( facy programmed job) has just packed
up because of the damp getting to its computerised board.

Is there anything else I can do? Short of move that is - and how do you sell
a damp house?


Sounds like you've done everything except the 2 things you should do.

First, get a dehumidifier in. This will bring rapid results.
Humidistatic is recommended as it wont overdry the woodwork, causing
warping or cracking.

Second, look for the water leak it sounds like you've got. It might be
extrnal rainwater orinternal plumbing.

Dehumidifiers cost £100 or so a year to run if on fairly high. This is
far cheaper than opening windows.


NT

In article ,
"whiskeyomega" writes:

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create this.
Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation. But
our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly
happening. Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on damp
days when its cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of heating on.

What is your heating?
Do you heat the whole house, or do you not heat some rooms?
Do you have trickle vents in the windows?
How do you dry clothes?
Do you have any extractor fans in bath/shower room?
Do you boil food in saucepans, or steam food? Do you have a kitchen extractor?

Exactly where does the condensation form?
Windows, external walls, internal walls, external and/or ceilings?

Do you know what type of ground floor you have (solid, suspended, etc)?

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:17:37 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its spreading
to the bedrooms and dining room.

Do they have extractor fans and do you use them?

and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was
then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

That is part of the problem. You need to keep the place warmer to
prevent the air near cold surfaces getting below the dew point. Along
with reducing (as much as practicable) the amount of moisture in the
air by ventilation in the key "wet" areas of
bathrooms/showers/kitchen.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

How much is this "arm and a leg", the annual oil bill here is about
£1600 (assuming 40p/l). You mention all electric. Does that include
space heating? If so one assumes you are on a tariff suitable for
that use (E7 or E10). Have you checked the tariffs of other
suppliers, you could be paying as much as double what you need to.
Plenty of websites that will tell you that information.

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.

A 1950's house as built would have had lot's of "natural" ventilation
with single glazed unsealed windows and door frames. What you have is
the typical problem of sealing up an "old" property with insulation
and double glazing.

Do those bricked up chimneys have vents into the room where the
fireplaces would have been? Are the tops sealed or ventilated? Does
the double glazing have trickle vents in the frames?

--
Cheers
Dave.

whiskeyomega wrote:

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create
this. Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation.
But our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly
happening. Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on damp
days when its cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of heating on.

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its
spreading to the bedrooms and dining room.

We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We
have done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop
global warming and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago
- and it was then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

Its so bad now I can dry clothes and put them in the airing cupboard
and they get damp again. If I leave them out to air , even then they
get a cold feeling. The beds worse. I put dry sheets and duvet on
it and they get damp during the day , so the bed has to be stripped
and aired every day and that doesn't do much really either. Its just
damp.

I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this
when all the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making
the house cold or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air
outside? Whilst opening a window can help it doesnt cure the problem
and the house then gets cold. It doesn't help with its raining though.

I just don't know what to do. OH is burying head in sand ( I guess he
doesn't know either ) and I am left being constantly ill .

I had pneumonia and suffer with my chest and have scars on my lungs
as a result and really do need to be warm without it costing too much
and not damp.

Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet
and they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal
things - they pick the water up but need changing every day). I had
thought of a dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time
too too.

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.

Should add we are all electric. No gas to the house and the fireplaces
were bricked up when the central heating was put in back in the 1970's (
before we brought it) . Hence its expensive to heat when its so damp.
Double glazing went in during the early 1980's ( should we be replacing
it?). But as I said, the problem has only started in the last two/ three
years.

Thanks for any suggestions and advice.


do you have cavity wall insulation?

If not the outer walls will attract condensation.

Otherwise its really down to ventilation. You and your activities will
generate moistu It has to go somewhere.

Only an influx of colder air that gets heated can absorb it.

The only way to avoid that leading to heat loss as well, is to have heat
exchanger ventilation.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 02:08:40 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

Second, look for the water leak it sounds like you've got. It might be
extrnal rainwater orinternal plumbing.

Worth checking but I'd expect that to be localised rather than
throughout the house. For the latter the air needs to be humid rather
than just a bit of the building near a leak.

Dehumidifiers cost £100 or so a year to run if on fairly high. This is
far cheaper than opening windows.

But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure. The ventilation
required on an on going basis isn't great and simple things like
always running extractor fans in kitchens/bathrooms etc will make a
tremendous difference. Simply venting our cooker hood outside and
only running it on 1 (out of 3) effectively stopped the windows (6mm
DG) running with water when ever any cooking was done

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"whiskeyomega" writes:

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...

To answer your questions - and I am grateful to all who answer. It really is
a problem now because the damp is causing mould to grow and I cant stop it,
not matter how much I wipe down and keep it away.

What is your heating?

Electric storage radiators - E7. We have little or no choice to be honest.
No gas to the area and LPG would be prohibitive in cost and installation
and even oil proved expensive and we have to site the tanks.

The other option is to open the fire places but coal would be messy and I
have no time to do the fire setting really. I dont know the state of our
fireplaces behind the blocking up ( there might be nothing left) so it would
cost a lot to put that in to

Do you heat the whole house, or do you not heat some rooms?

This is a change. We used to heat the whole house but OH said it was too
expensive so now I am only allowed heat in the main living room ( one 3KW
sotrage heater - there is a second but he wont allow it on and I am not
allowed the dining room one on either.)

I can also have the one in the bedroom on . The bedroom suffers badly with
condensation and was causeing me to have a permanent cough, so it has to be
warmer.

The hall isnt allowed on and the spare bedroom inst allowed to be on.

He has also turned down the heating a couple of degrees ( like they say on
the TV ads!) I have an 3eco warrior OH!
;-(

Do you have trickle vents in the windows?

I dont know what these are so I doubt it.

How do you dry clothes?

Tuble dryer no more than once a week or outside.

Do you have any extractor fans in bath/shower room?

Yes.

Do you boil food in saucepans, or steam food? Do you have a kitchen
extractor?

Not often and trying now to do even less. Never steam. Yes to extractor fan


Exactly where does the condensation form?
Windows, external walls, internal walls, external and/or ceilings?

A lot of it is damp walls under the windows . External walls mainly.
The spare bedroom has mould in the corner on the ceiling and where the two
external walls join the whole wall seems damp but its mostly toward the
bottom half of the walls.


Do you know what type of ground floor you have (solid, suspended, etc)?

Its a bungalow. One floor only. Fllors are wodden suspended over a void (
no cellar - not sure how deep the void is. Vents all round the outside
though. OH has said void is about three feet deep?

whiskeyomega wrote:
The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.


Our 1930's house is end terrace. The guttering at the far end cuts
across and slightly into the brickwork of two chimmney stacks. On
several occasions (before we installed an additional downpipe) some
rainwater had overflowed the gutter and leaked into the chimney itself.

The damp caused in upstairs rooms was eventually erradicated by the
downpipe and dry-lining of that wall, also opening up a previously
sealed room vent for the box room.

--
Adrian C

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:17:37 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its spreading
to the bedrooms and dining room.

Do they have extractor fans and do you use them?

and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was
then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

That is part of the problem. You need to keep the place warmer to
prevent the air near cold surfaces getting below the dew point. Along
with reducing (as much as practicable) the amount of moisture in the
air by ventilation in the key "wet" areas of
bathrooms/showers/kitchen.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

How much is this "arm and a leg", the annual oil bill here is about
£1600 (assuming 40p/l).

Well, no we are not paying £1600 a year. Our bill last year for electric for
the whole year came to about £1000. W e are all electric so no other fuel
costs.

Our last bill was £158.73 for the quarter. That was running three 1. 5 KW
heaters and all other appliances ( fridge , freezer etc.) for the last
quarter. I had to put them on because it was cold and I was ill. It was also
pretty wet and cold for the summer so I had the heating on more than usual.

I give the electric people £66 a month which is their calculation of what
our electric costs to run for the year. According to the bill we are
currently in credit £158.60 across the year so far.

But I have the 3KW heater on in the living area now instead ( took the
little heater off) . So it will go up for the winter quarter.
If they put the direct debit up OH says we will have to take a heater off.
I am allowed £1000 a year for heating no more. It used to cost us about
£1200 two years ago with all the heating on but then they put the prices up
and my OH cut us back on the use of the heating.

I cut back the use of cooker etc myself to stop the condensation.

If it gets chilly we have a halogen heater for the sitting room which we
put on 500w to keep warmer.

He kept seeing the TV ads about being well insulated and cutting the bills
by turning down the heating and said we could do that. He says we need to
put more clothes on instead of heating the air. ( I am sitting here in a
coat by the way)

You mention all electric. Does that include
space heating? If so one assumes you are on a tariff suitable for
that use (E7 or E10). Have you checked the tariffs of other
suppliers, you could be paying as much as double what you need to.
Plenty of websites that will tell you that information.

I have what qualifies as just about the cheapest supplier for my area. I say
just about because the prices keep changing .

The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.


Do those bricked up chimneys have vents into the room where the
fireplaces would have been?

No. I dont even know if they were taken out and bricked or just sealed
over.

Are the tops sealed or ventilated? Does

The chimneys are open . I know that because we thought about putting a coal
fire in one of them. We have three fireplaces in the house including one in
the kitchen ( once had an aga and boiler there I think)

the double glazing have trickle vents in the frames?

I dont know what these are so I am guessing no.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:17:37 -0000, "whiskeyomega"
wrote:


We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We have
done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop global warming
and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was then we
started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

That's how you caused the damp. By taking a house which leaked air
and sealing it up where do you think all the moisture you still
generate is going to go?

Its so bad now I can dry clothes

Where do you dry them? Are you using a dryer vented to outside?

I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this when all
the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making the house cold

Your DG windows should have trickle vents in them - do they?

or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air outside?

Air has low mass and is cheap to heat.

Can someone tell me what we can do?

There is only one solution and that is to improve ventilation to
acceptable levels. You can fit extractor fans to areas such as the
kitchen and bathroom or preferably fit whole house ventilation such as
described at http://www.ubbink.co.uk/whole_house_vent/concept.htm

I have looked across the internet and
they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal things - they
pick the water up but need changing every day). I had thought of a
dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time too too.

Dehumidifiers are the quick solution and as they return heat to the
house are not that expensive to run. Do get proper ones though such
as the Ebac range http://www.ebac.com/dehumidifier-productselector.php

"Adrian C" wrote in message
...
whiskeyomega wrote:


The damp caused in upstairs rooms was eventually erradicated by the
downpipe and dry-lining of that wall, also opening up a previously sealed
room vent for the box room.

I know our guttering leaks like a sieve in places. Its old cast iron. It
mostly leaks on joints.
It leaks in the corner in the kitchen ( dont know about the front), on the
joint outside the bathroom to my knowledge, across most of the one side of
the house around the spare bedroom and it might be leaky around the main
bedroom too I havent looked.

I have told my husband about it but he says its OK and doesnt want to do
anything about it. he did say he would go and put some putty around one of
the joints. to hold the downpout together but he hasnt done that yet. ;-(

I did ask about getting new guttering but apparently we might have to have
new soffits and facias as well - but as far as I can see, the facias are
well painted and not rotting. The soffits I am not sure about. I know its
old and past it round the front door canopy area.

Husband says it will cost too much. I am not sure how much that is though.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:17:37 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its spreading
to the bedrooms and dining room.

Do they have extractor fans and do you use them?

and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years ago - and it was
then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

That is part of the problem. You need to keep the place warmer to
prevent the air near cold surfaces getting below the dew point. Along
with reducing (as much as practicable) the amount of moisture in the
air by ventilation in the key "wet" areas of
bathrooms/showers/kitchen.


Yeah but . . . where is the water coming from? It sounds so extreme that
some sort of bridging/penetrating/rising could well be happening. Also,
have you changed the occupancy?

Before you try 'consulatants' I think this site is worth a look:

http://www.dampbuster.com/

He's produced a few videos that raise some interesting questions about
diagnosis and treatment. In my opinion - I am certainly not an expert.

Rob

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:17:37 -0000, "whiskeyomega"
wrote:




Its so bad now I can dry clothes

Where do you dry them? Are you using a dryer vented to outside?

I usually dry on the line outside . I have a pish washer dryer I use
sparingly ( as it does run up the electric bill a but. But the main problem
is that , I dry my clothes and bring them in and they get damp again!

Even if I leave them in the airing cupboard or over a chair they will get
damp even after I have dried them thoroughly/

The bedding is even worse. Its always damp at night, not matter how often I
change it or how well I dry the beds out and air them during the day.


Your DG windows should have trickle vents in them - do they?

I keep being asked this. I dont think so. Its old, put in about 1980 .
Wooden framed though. I have opening windows , thats about it.

whiskeyomega wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"whiskeyomega" writes:

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...

To answer your questions - and I am grateful to all who answer. It
really is a problem now because the damp is causing mould to grow and I
cant stop it, not matter how much I wipe down and keep it away.

What is your heating?

Electric storage radiators - E7. We have little or no choice to be
honest. No gas to the area and LPG would be prohibitive in cost and
installation and even oil proved expensive and we have to site the tanks.


Ouch. I feel your pain.

The other option is to open the fire places but coal would be messy and
I have no time to do the fire setting really. I dont know the state of
our fireplaces behind the blocking up ( there might be nothing left) so
it would cost a lot to put that in to

yes..leave alone.

Do you heat the whole house, or do you not heat some rooms?

This is a change. We used to heat the whole house but OH said it was too
expensive so now I am only allowed heat in the main living room ( one
3KW sotrage heater - there is a second but he wont allow it on and I am
not allowed the dining room one on either.)

Ok. that's a dangerous mix. But its fixable.

I can also have the one in the bedroom on . The bedroom suffers badly
with condensation and was causeing me to have a permanent cough, so it
has to be warmer.

mould spores will automatically generate phlegm production. The cough
is good if productive. No mould is better.




The hall isnt allowed on and the spare bedroom inst allowed to be on.


OK, then that is where you should ventilate - in the coldest parts of
the house. If you can leave the windows open just a crack, or
ventilators if fitted, or add some kind of adjustable vent to the
outside, it will bleed the steamy air away a bit. The key is to control
the ventilation so its not draughty. Chimneys are rather good at this.
Shame they are blocked really.



He has also turned down the heating a couple of degrees ( like they say
on the TV ads!) I have an 3eco warrior OH!
;-(


yup. but its better to be alive..first.

Do you have trickle vents in the windows?

I dont know what these are so I doubt it.


adjustable vents in the window frame.

How do you dry clothes?

Tuble dryer no more than once a week or outside.


good.
Do you have any extractor fans in bath/shower room?

Yes.

good.

Do you boil food in saucepans, or steam food? Do you have a kitchen
extractor?

Not often and trying now to do even less. Never steam. Yes to extractor
fan


OK.

Exactly where does the condensation form?
Windows, external walls, internal walls, external and/or ceilings?

A lot of it is damp walls under the windows .

Now that is odd.

It may be that there is no cavity insulation there.

External walls mainly.

OK, that sounds like a bit of a failure of the actual cavity wall
insulation, or possible the guttering etc is bad and is dousing the wall
with water. Its ****ing down here. Worth putting on a mac and visually
seeing if any water is running down the walls due to leaf blocked or
broken guttering..


The spare bedroom has mould in the corner on the ceiling and where the
two external walls join the whole wall seems damp but its mostly toward
the bottom half of the walls.


Mmm. ceiling is bad..again MAY be a leak, or the loft insulation is not
fitted to that area properly.



Do you know what type of ground floor you have (solid, suspended, etc)?

Its a bungalow. One floor only. Fllors are wodden suspended over a void
( no cellar - not sure how deep the void is. Vents all round the outside
though. OH has said void is about three feet deep?


MM. big heat loss there. If you redo the carpets nail down hardboard
and seal with duct tape to remove draughts from underfloor. More
insulation there is a major exercise tho.

Tell Eco warrior OH that a balance between damp (very bad for health of
building and inhabitants) needs to be balanced with ventilation and
heating costs.

Perfect eco housing (heat pump, controlled heat exchange ventilation)
costs a lot of money and wont pay off in lifetimes of us old folks.

In article ,
"whiskeyomega" writes:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"whiskeyomega" writes:

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...

To answer your questions - and I am grateful to all who answer. It really is
a problem now because the damp is causing mould to grow and I cant stop it,
not matter how much I wipe down and keep it away.

What is your heating?

Electric storage radiators - E7. We have little or no choice to be honest.
No gas to the area and LPG would be prohibitive in cost and installation
and even oil proved expensive and we have to site the tanks.

The other option is to open the fire places but coal would be messy and I
have no time to do the fire setting really. I dont know the state of our
fireplaces behind the blocking up ( there might be nothing left) so it would
cost a lot to put that in to

Do you heat the whole house, or do you not heat some rooms?

This is a change. We used to heat the whole house but OH said it was too
expensive so now I am only allowed heat in the main living room ( one 3KW
sotrage heater - there is a second but he wont allow it on and I am not
allowed the dining room one on either.)

This is probably part of the problem. You effectively no longer
have central heating because you aren't heating the whole house.
As air circulates from a warm area to a cold area, the humidity
will increase because cold air can't hold as much moisture. When
the high humidity air contacts a cold surface in a colder area
of the house, the excess moisture will drop out onto that surface.

I can also have the one in the bedroom on . The bedroom suffers badly with
condensation and was causeing me to have a permanent cough, so it has to be
warmer.

The hall isnt allowed on and the spare bedroom inst allowed to be on.

Before homes had central heating, we tended to have drafts (leaky
windows, open fires, etc), and that kept houses dry. You've gone
back to spot heating but with modern levels of draft-proofing,
and that's very difficult to achieve without cold spots and
condensation.

He has also turned down the heating a couple of degrees ( like they say on
the TV ads!) I have an 3eco warrior OH!
;-(

Do you have trickle vents in the windows?

I dont know what these are so I doubt it.

A small vent, usually at the top in the plastic frame.
Not always fitted though (not required unless the windows
can't be locked in position with just a crack open).

How do you dry clothes?

Tuble dryer no more than once a week or outside.

Where does the tumble drier vent to? Outside?

Do you have any extractor fans in bath/shower room?

Yes.

Do you boil food in saucepans, or steam food? Do you have a kitchen
extractor?

Not often and trying now to do even less. Never steam. Yes to extractor fan

Don't stop cooking. Cover the pan and use a low heat, and the extractor.
Water is same temperature if it's boiling slowly or quickly, so you
don't gain anything with fast boiling, except condensation.

Exactly where does the condensation form?
Windows, external walls, internal walls, external and/or ceilings?

A lot of it is damp walls under the windows . External walls mainly.

I wonder if the cavity fill has missed these areas?

The spare bedroom has mould in the corner on the ceiling and where the two
external walls join the whole wall seems damp but its mostly toward the
bottom half of the walls.


Do you know what type of ground floor you have (solid, suspended, etc)?

Its a bungalow. One floor only. Fllors are wodden suspended over a void (
no cellar - not sure how deep the void is. Vents all round the outside
though. OH has said void is about three feet deep?

As another poster said, it's worth checking to see if the area
under the floor has turned into a lake, e.g. due to a water leak.
In some houses water routinely pools there anyway, so you need to
know what was normal for your house under the floor before the
problem. Still worth checking if there's a floorboard you can
easily lift.

A dehumidifier might be an option, but they aren't a universal panacea.
They are a sticky plaster over a problem, not a fix for the problem,
and they can cause plenty of problems of their own, both for you and
for the fabric of the house and your furniture.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Nov 1, 10:42*am, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 02:08:40 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:
Second, look for the water leak it sounds like you've got. It might be
extrnal rainwater orinternal plumbing.

Worth checking but I'd expect that to be localised rather than
throughout the house. For the latter the air needs to be humid rather
than just a bit of the building near a leak.

Dehumidifiers cost £100 or so a year to run if on fairly high. This is
far cheaper than opening windows.

But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure.

not really true. If the cause is condensation, a dh will reduce RH to
the point where it stops occurring. Problem cured.


The ventilation
required on an on going basis isn't great

if the whole houses is heated that's true. But if its not, as in this
case, it isnt, and a dehumidifier is a cheaper and easier option.


and simple things like
always running extractor fans in kitchens/bathrooms etc will make a
tremendous difference. Simply venting our cooker hood outside and
only running it on 1 (out of 3) effectively stopped the windows (6mm
DG) running with water when ever any cooking was done

But again a dehumidifier is cheaper and does more.


NT

On Sun, 01 Nov 2009 11:14:39 +0000, Adrian C
wrote:

whiskeyomega wrote:
The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if
that helps.


Our 1930's house is end terrace. The guttering at the far end cuts
across and slightly into the brickwork of two chimmney stacks. On
several occasions (before we installed an additional downpipe) some
rainwater had overflowed the gutter and leaked into the chimney itself.

The damp caused in upstairs rooms was eventually erradicated by the
downpipe and dry-lining of that wall, also opening up a previously
sealed room vent for the box room.

If your house suddenly became damp - and it wasn't before - then
clearly something has happened and water is entering the property.

You have to be a 'detective' and note if it is associated with
rainfall or not. If not, concentrate on the inside plumbing.

I had a similar experience with excessive condensation in my house in
the 1990s, and initially I put it down to my lack of double-glazing.
I also brought in a de-humidifier and let it run continuously. But I
was wrong about that.

Finally I stumbled on a source of the problem. A pinhole leak had
occurred in the main water incomer pipe, and a very fine water spray
was emerging - and as I had warm air heating via ducts this vapour was
being distributed around the house.

Your problem will probably be something similar, so search for a water
leak somewhere - it may be under floorboards.

David

whiskeyomega wrote:
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create
this. Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation.
But our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly
happening. Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on
damp days when its cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of
heating on.
The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its
spreading to the bedrooms and dining room.

We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We
have done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop
global warming and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years
ago - and it was then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

Its so bad now I can dry clothes and put them in the airing cupboard
and they get damp again. If I leave them out to air , even then they
get a cold feeling. The beds worse. I put dry sheets and duvet on
it and they get damp during the day , so the bed has to be stripped
and aired every day and that doesn't do much really either. Its just
damp.
I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this
when all the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making
the house cold or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air
outside? Whilst opening a window can help it doesnt cure the problem
and the house then gets cold. It doesn't help with its raining
though.
I just don't know what to do. OH is burying head in sand ( I guess he
doesn't know either ) and I am left being constantly ill .

I had pneumonia and suffer with my chest and have scars on my lungs
as a result and really do need to be warm without it costing too much
and not damp.

Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet
and they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal
things - they pick the water up but need changing every day). I had
thought of a dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time
too too.
The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if that
helps.

Having read the replies to date and your additional comments, I think you
would find that the addition of a dehumidifier would be of benefit.

We live in a 1980s detached house that has cavity wall insulation and is
double glazed. When we moved in (new), we had condensation in the bathroom
and on windows in N and E facing walls and some condensation on the N & E
facing exterior walls upstairs. I bought a dehumidifier and used this on the
landing to good effect for a couple of years. I then realised that it was
not our use of the bathroom and us sleeping that was the principal source of
moisture.

I moved the dehumidifier to the kitchen with improved results and less use
of electricity. We now have no problems with condensation.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 04:43:41 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure.

not really true. If the cause is condensation, a dh will reduce RH to
the point where it stops occurring. Problem cured.

No the condensation, a symptom of the air being to wet for the
temperature is reduced. But the initial problem of the air being to
wet in the first place is not tackled at all.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 04:43:41 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure.

not really true. If the cause is condensation, a dh will reduce RH to
the point where it stops occurring. Problem cured.

No the condensation, a symptom of the air being to wet for the
temperature is reduced. But the initial problem of the air being to
wet in the first place is not tackled at all.


Having said everything I have I have looked at all my walls and realised its
all dry and there is no condensation there today. Even the windows are
clear.

It rained over night but its not raining now ( except for the odd sharp
shower)
But the bedroom walls which were sopping the other day are dry today. The
corner in the spare room is covered in mould but its dry today too.

Its dried out very quickly considering. No rain and it stops being wet.
I think the outside temperature might be higher today though. Problems seem
to occur when its cold out and the heating is on low.

Putting the 3KW heater on in the living room has coincided with this
drying out - but it couldn't be the cause could it? I did it without his
permission. It will have to go off when he realises what I have done. But I
was so cold last week.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 11:26:36 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

I give the electric people £66 a month which is their calculation of
what our electric costs to run for the year.

On top of the £1600/year oil bill we also pay that for 'lectric,
energy costs here are about £2500/year.

£1000/year for all energy costs is on the low side:

http://www.whatprice.co.uk/utilities/gas-bills.html
3 bed bungalow - £850

http://www.whatprice.co.uk/utilities...ity-bills.html
3 bed bungalow - £746

or £1600 total energy bill... Of course if you don't have the money
to afford to spend more on energy there is a problem.

You obviously don't need to to heat the little used rooms to full
comfort temperature. Turn the heaters down as low as they will go in
those rooms and that may well be enough to stop the condensation. No
heat all is asking for trouble, as you have found out.

According to the bill we are currently in credit £158.60 across the
year so far.

The winter will soon take care of that...

The chimneys are open . I know that because we thought about putting a
coal fire in one of them.

If you want to go that route it would be better to install a small
stove rather than an open fire. Can you get trailer loads logs for a
reasonable price where you are? Burning wood is greener than coal.

Personally I think your "eco warrior OH" is going a bit OTT and needs
to pull his finger out over building maintenance, comfort levels and
your (both of yours) health.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Clot" wrote in message
...
whiskeyomega wrote:
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create
this. Its only happened in the last couple of years.

you've mentioned the guttering is leaking like a seive, theres your problem,
it's pouring the rain water down the external walls of the house, soaking
them and that's being wicked inside, causing the damp.

your OH says the gutters are fine and would cost too much to replace, but
how much value is being knocked off the house by them leaking, not to
mention your health that's suffering due to his penny pinching.

i personaly dont go in for any of this ecobollox, i keep my place at 22
degrees all night, and 20 during the day, stuff the costs or that rubbish
about co2, i want to be warm and comfortable, so what if it costs a few
hundered quid a year more to do that, it's only money, money is disposable,
your health is not,

sounds like your a 'poor and happy' person, but your OH is a 'rich and
miserable' person

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 11:44:20 -0000, "whiskeyomega"
wrote:

"Peter Parry" wrote

I usually dry on the line outside . I have a pish washer dryer I use
sparingly ( as it does run up the electric bill a but. But the main problem
is that , I dry my clothes and bring them in and they get damp again!

Condensing dryers (or washer/dryers) actually release a lot of
moisture back into the room, typically a litre or more per load.

Your DG windows should have trickle vents in them - do they?

I keep being asked this. I dont think so. Its old, put in about 1980 .
Wooden framed though. I have opening windows , thats about it.

Do a Google Images search for "trickle vents" and you will see
pictures of various types.

From what you have said the major problem appears to be a combination
of poor ventilation, inadequate heating and a nincompoop for a
partner.

The solution is -

1. Throw out the partner
2. Get a de-humidifier (they work particularly well in bungalows)
3. Turn up the heating
4. Next summer - arrange for better ventilation to be fitted.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...




Personally I think your "eco warrior OH" is going a bit OTT and needs
to pull his finger out over building maintenance, comfort levels and
your (both of yours) health.

I think he has gone over the top too, but trying to tell him that is a
problem.

Thanks for the comparisons for untility bills. Of course since we dont
have alternative heating sources all our heating and cooking and everything
is electric. I only have one power bill.

OH thinks its too high - dont know where he gets the figures.

I had a shock the other day when I found out my neighbour paid £246 a
quarter for water.
I dont pay that a year let alone a quarter. But OH thinks we pay too much
water too.

If I could, I would get rid of him. Unfortunately I married him 30 years ago
and he doesnt want to leave.

"Owain" wrote in message
...
On 1 Nov, 13:21, "whiskeyomega" wrote:
Putting the 3KW heater on in the living room has coincided with this
drying out - but it couldn't be the cause could it? I did it without his
permission. It will have to go off when he realises what I have done. But
I
was so cold last week.

Many Economy 7 tariffs charge a prohibitively high rate for peak-rate
electricity so you'd be better off having the storage heaters running
properly on off-peak electricity to keep the house warm (at least warm
enough).

We dont have the facility to put any heating on during the day, even if I
did want to pay the higher charge. I can only run the heating at night. It
doesnt come on during the day at all. I meant I put the heater on a couple
of nights ago and turned the small one off ( there are two heaters in the
room - one is 3KW and the other a 1.4KW ). It makes a great deal of
difference to the room though having the bigger heater running, rather than
the small one.


Storage heaters aren't usually used in bedrooms where a panel heater
on at night keeps the bedroom warm - open the window and let the warm
moist air out every morning.

Either I have a strange system or you do? I dont have panel heaters
anywhere. The sotrage heater in the bedroom is a 1.4KW - in fact all the
bedrooms have one of these. I have been allowed to have that one on low in
the room and it does keep the room warm but you can feel the difference
between that and the rest of the house.

If you have window recesses the wall below the windows may only be
half a brick thick and uninsulated.

No window recesses.

You could get a monthly payment account so you pay the same amount in
winter as in summer and so spread the cost more evenly over the year.
You might also be eligible for help with heating costs if you have
health problems - maybe the local council or CAB can advise.

Entitled to extras in this country? You must be kidding. I cant even get a
free flu jab!
We pay for everything. My husband was forced to retire a couiple of years
ago ( he was actually made redundant but got his pension) . He cant even
claim council tax or pension credit or anything else.

FWIW, this isnt an issue over money. We have the money. I can can also earn
it if needs be. This is just my husband getting his silly head full of daft
8ideas from listening to too much Radio 4 money programmes and too many daft
TV programmes about " saving" all the time.

Thanks for the advice though. I am trying to talk him into going round and
doing the joints of the guttering with putty ( he wont let me have anyone in
to estimate for new guttering, he says we cant afford it. ) We cant afford
anything according to him

To be honest I wish the TV and the government would get off this green eco
CO", its costing me my health ( he is as strong as an Ox)

On Nov 1, 1:59*pm, "gazz" wrote:
you've mentioned the guttering is leaking like a seive, theres your problem,
I agree with you here. I have seen several houses that have the
downpipe dislodged so that any rain runs straight down the walls.

i personaly dont go in for any of this ecobollox, i keep my place at 22
degrees all night, and 20 during the day, stuff the costs or that rubbish
about co2, i want to be warm and comfortable,
Not everyone is in the same financial situation and can afford to pay
a fuel bill from a 24/7 system. What you've written in other posts
suggests you don't need to turn off the system.
we also have a new car, which my parents bought
someone keeps phoning the benefits anti fraud hotline and telling them every
single thing i ever do, i can be 99% certian it's them doing it
I'm not saying anything against yourself but do your benefits give you
a fuel allowance or are all your energy bills paid for you. If someone
else is paying the bills it means psychologically that you are less
inclined to reduce your fuel consumption.

sounds like your a 'poor and happy' person, but your OH is a 'rich and
miserable' person
Another solution to the OP's situation is
5. move to a smaller better insulated modern house.
but 1. might be a better option!

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
news
I think the real problem coming home to roost after so many years is my
husband always wanted a council house but we were not entitled to one of
those either.

He never wanted to own his own home ( let alone do any of it up) and was
forced to buy because we would have been homeless otherwise - and he didn't
want to rent privately because (a) the cost was prohibitive) and (b) the
quality of housing was poor.

So we did the only thing we could. We bought a house. No, we don't have a
mortgage. I paid that off a lot of years ago ( I worked hard to do that
because he worried so about the mortgage and loosing his home - yet he
still worries we cant afford to live in a house we own) Thats whats behind
this I think. That and the doom and gloom BBC money programme he listens
to with all its items about houses being repossessed and people being
strapped for cash and having no money because of the economic downturn.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 13:59:19 -0000, gazz wrote:

you've mentioned the guttering is leaking like a seive, theres your
problem, it's pouring the rain water down the external walls of the
house, soaking them and that's being wicked inside, causing the damp.

It wouldn't help but the OP has stated that the walls dry quickly
(days) if they were wet through they'd take months to dry. That same
message indicates fairly strongly that the damp is condensation, it
appears to be worst in the right sort of places, external walls,
corners, below windows Cold air flowing from the window cools that
bit of wall also the cooled air won't be able to hold so much
moisture).

i personaly dont go in for any of this ecobollox, i keep my place at 22
degrees all night, and 20 during the day,

Flipin heck that is hot, your choice of course. Stat here is set at
18.5 during the day and 20 for the evening. Might need to wear a
jumper as well as a T shirt from now through to May.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
news
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 11:44:20 -0000, "whiskeyomega"
wrote:

"Peter Parry" wrote

I usually dry on the line outside . I have a pish washer dryer I use
sparingly ( as it does run up the electric bill a but. But the main
problem
is that , I dry my clothes and bring them in and they get damp again!

Condensing dryers (or washer/dryers) actually release a lot of
moisture back into the room, typically a litre or more per load.


I'm rather surprised about that. Most like mine use a sealed primary, where
the moist warm air is cooled through a heat exchanger. The condensate from
the primary side is then pumped to a storage container.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 14:27:56 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

OH thinks its too high - dont know where he gets the figures.

That's partly why I quoted my costs and those web links. Something to
show that £1000/year total energy cost is low and that just a little
bit of extra heat may well sort the damp problem.

Being "green" is all well and good but one still has to have a
comfortable place in which to live. So the OH save a few hundred quid
on power bill but what if you "forget" to keep airing and drying
stuff and suddenly find that all your clothes, bed linen etc have
gone mouldy and have to be chucked out and replaced? Not to mention
the health aspects.

--
Cheers
Dave.

whiskeyomega wrote:
I hadn't used to be damp. I don't know what we have done to create
this. Its only happened in the last couple of years.

Having gone through all the possibles it looks like its condensation.
But our lifestyle hasn't changed any so I don't know why its suddenly
happening. Some mornings the walls are ringing wet, especially on
damp days when its cold and raining and we haven't got a lot of
heating on.
The kitchen and bathroom are obviously damp places but now its
spreading to the bedrooms and dining room.

We have double glazing, central heating and loft insulation etc. We
have done everything to make the house energy efficient and stop
global warming and my OH turned down the heating a couple of years
ago - and it was then we started to get damp and it isn't stopping.

Its now costing an arm and a leg to heat properly to clear the damp.

Its so bad now I can dry clothes and put them in the airing cupboard
and they get damp again. If I leave them out to air , even then they
get a cold feeling. The beds worse. I put dry sheets and duvet on
it and they get damp during the day , so the bed has to be stripped
and aired every day and that doesn't do much really either. Its just
damp.
I know they say you have to ventilate a house but how can I do this
when all the double glazing etc is there to stop that without making
the house cold or having to pay out in heating bills to heat the air
outside? Whilst opening a window can help it doesnt cure the problem
and the house then gets cold. It doesn't help with its raining
though.
I just don't know what to do. OH is burying head in sand ( I guess he
doesn't know either ) and I am left being constantly ill .

I had pneumonia and suffer with my chest and have scars on my lungs
as a result and really do need to be warm without it costing too much
and not damp.

Can someone tell me what we can do? I have looked across the internet
and they don't have any practical solutions ( tried those crystal
things - they pick the water up but need changing every day). I had
thought of a dehumidifier but that would cost to keep on all the time
too too.
The house is traditional build 1950 ish, rural area, detached, if that
helps.


If it was built in the 50's then there is no insulation in the walls, unless
it has been done afterwards, which it doesn't sound like it has.
There are grants available to have it done, and it can be done for free if
you or your spouse recieve any benefits.
once you've had the walls insulated, you'll need to remove the water by
dehumidifier, but this should only take a few days for each room, so it may
be worth trying to borrow one or failing that, hiring one from a hire shop.

--
Phil L
RSRL Tipster Of The Year 2008

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 14:54:37 -0000, "Fredxx" wrote:


I'm rather surprised about that. Most like mine use a sealed primary, where
the moist warm air is cooled through a heat exchanger. The condensate from
the primary side is then pumped to a storage container.

The problem with them all is that the process of condensing out the
moisture isn't as efficient as they would like you to believe so the
vented air is still quite moist.

On Nov 1, 1:12*pm, "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 04:43:41 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:
But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure.

not really true. If the cause is condensation, a dh will reduce RH to
the point where it stops occurring. Problem cured.

No the condensation, a symptom of the air being to wet for the
temperature is reduced. But the initial problem of the air being to
wet in the first place is not tackled at all.

Yes, it is. The OP isnt producing any unreasonable sources of dampness
within the house, the damp produced is normal. You cant sop people
breathing, cooking and showering. The question is merely one of how to
get rid of the normal amount of damp produced. There are other
options, but a dh is the cheapest and surest.


NT

On Nov 1, 1:21*pm, "whiskeyomega" wrote:
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message

ll.co.uk...

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 04:43:41 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

But really only treat the symptom not effect a cure.

not really true. If the cause is condensation, a dh will reduce RH to
the point where it stops occurring. Problem cured.

No the condensation, a symptom of the air being to wet for the
temperature is reduced. But the initial problem of the air being to
wet in the first place is not tackled at all.

Having said everything I have I have looked at all my walls and realised its
all dry and there is no condensation there today. Even the windows are
clear.

It rained over night but its not raining now ( except for the odd sharp
shower)
But the bedroom walls which were sopping *the other day are dry today. *The
corner in the spare room is covered in mould but its dry today too.

Its dried out very quickly considering. *No rain and *it stops being wet.
I think the outside temperature might be higher today though. *Problems seem
to occur when its cold out and the heating is *on low.

Putting the 3KW heater on *in the living room *has coincided with this
drying out - but it couldn't be the cause could it? I did it without his
permission. It will have to go off when he realises what I have done. But I
was so cold last week.

Its probaly very much the cause of the drying. Warm air holds far more
moisture than cold, and as warm water laden air swaps with drier
outdoor air (even when its raining there is less water vapour in cold
air), damp gets removed. Its how most houses handle the dampness
produced within.


NT

On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 14:38:54 -0000, whiskeyomega wrote:

FWIW, this isnt an issue over money. We have the money.

You can't take it with you.

And unless you are planning now the government may well help
themselves to a substantial amount of it should you try and leave it
to anyone else.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"whiskeyomega" wrote in message
...

I dont dry clothes indoors. I have a washer dryer. I run the tumble dryer
only when the waether is so bad I have to ( its a modern one that
condenses the steam and sends it down the waste pipe) )

Every condensing drier I've ever seen in use creates a lot of humidity in
the room its being used in. I'd look into a vented type that shoots the wet
air outside.

"Peter Parry" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 1 Nov 2009 14:54:37 -0000, "Fredxx" wrote:


I'm rather surprised about that. Most like mine use a sealed primary,
where
the moist warm air is cooled through a heat exchanger. The condensate
from
the primary side is then pumped to a storage container.

The problem with them all is that the process of condensing out the
moisture isn't as efficient as they would like you to believe so the
vented air is still quite moist.

I see, mine is different, such that the internal space is generally sealed
with minimal leaks past doors etc.