I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my storage
heater having lamped the electric and I switched it off.

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off but
I cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the heating
off before in summer and not had this.

I have one room that smells of garlic! Mustiness I suppose. I sure its
damp. I can feel its damp in the air. All my carpets are damp when you walk
on them - yet I cant find the cause. I've looked for leaks, gutters,
floorboards.

Signs of mould are now beginning to appear on walls, black bitty stuff. (
those which have an outside surface) . Wallpaper is feeling damp and it is
peeling in a couple of corners. Never had that before ( except in the
bathroom - always have a condensation problem there).

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is double
glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick built
detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

"endymion" wrote in message
...
I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my
storage heater having lamped the electric and I switched it off.

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off
but I cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the
heating off before in summer and not had this.

I have one room that smells of garlic! Mustiness I suppose. I sure its
damp. I can feel its damp in the air. All my carpets are damp when you
walk on them - yet I cant find the cause. I've looked for leaks, gutters,
floorboards.

Signs of mould are now beginning to appear on walls, black bitty stuff.
( those which have an outside surface) . Wallpaper is feeling damp and it
is peeling in a couple of corners. Never had that before ( except in the
bathroom - always have a condensation problem there).

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is double
glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick built
detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

All condensation problems are caused by lack of heat and/or ventilation, do
you have the windows open or have proper vents?

Are you cooking a lot without turning the extractor on?


Anyway, pop down Argos and buy a dehumidifier (about £70) and dry it out
before the mould spreads, if you can't open the windows.

endymion wrote:
I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my
storage heater having lamped the electric and I switched it off.

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off
but I cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the
heating off before in summer and not had this.

I have one room that smells of garlic! Mustiness I suppose. I sure its
damp. I can feel its damp in the air. All my carpets are damp when you
walk on them - yet I cant find the cause. I've looked for leaks,
gutters, floorboards.

Signs of mould are now beginning to appear on walls, black bitty stuff.
( those which have an outside surface) . Wallpaper is feeling damp and
it is peeling in a couple of corners. Never had that before ( except in
the bathroom - always have a condensation problem there).

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick
built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.


Seems to me it hasn't been just the usual summer 'damp outside', but
extraordinarily damp - and with little relief. (Currently 17.9C and
72.5% RH - but has been consistently 98% for hour after hour many days.)

We open windows a lot. Even when it seems positively wet outside, some
interior moisture seems to disappear out of them. If possible, open
windows on both sides of the house to encourage through ventilation.

Do you close interior doors? If so, don't. Other than bathroom, we
almost never close them.

Could dampness from your bathroom be spreading round the house? Our
bathroom is usually one of the driest rooms in the house - other than
when actually washing/bathing. I think you really have to go to town
here. Maybe some humidistat-controlled fan (often discussed here)?

What about kitchen? Quite a lot of water can be added by cooking.

Do you have anything like an aquarium? Do you do lots of steam ironing?

You could try a dehumidifier - but they cost to buy/hire and to run, and
IMHO they are only really sensible for acute use. Maybe your chronic
problem has become acute?

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 +0100, "endymion"
wrote:

I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my storage
heater having lamped the electric and I switched it off.

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off but
I cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the heating
off before in summer and not had this.

I have one room that smells of garlic! Mustiness I suppose. I sure its
damp. I can feel its damp in the air. All my carpets are damp when you walk
on them - yet I cant find the cause. I've looked for leaks, gutters,
floorboards.

Signs of mould are now beginning to appear on walls, black bitty stuff. (
those which have an outside surface) . Wallpaper is feeling damp and it is
peeling in a couple of corners. Never had that before ( except in the
bathroom - always have a condensation problem there).

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is double
glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick built
detached bungalow circa 1958 build.


Make sure the dampproof course is exposed all around the bungalow and that any
air bricks are clear. Floors can go very quickly if not properly ventilated.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 +0100, endymion wrote:

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off
but cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the
heating off before in summer and not had this.

In the same house? I have a very vague memory that you have only moved
into this place in the last year but could be wrong with that.

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick
built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

I doubt it was orginally constructed with double glazing or roof
insulation. With the replacement windows there is now not enough
ventilation to remove the warm damp air inside. Open the windows or the
trickle vents if they exist. Use any extractor fans in the kitchen and/or
bathroom to remove the exccess moisture, don't dry clothes inside on
racks. Lack of heat inside will mean the walls will cool, if they go below
the dewpoint of the air inside you will get condensation aka damp. You can
lower the dewpoint of the air by making it warmer or by removing moisture.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article ,
"dennis@home" writes:
"endymion" wrote in message
...
I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my
storage heater having lamped the electric and I switched it off.

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off
but I cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the
heating off before in summer and not had this.

I have one room that smells of garlic! Mustiness I suppose. I sure its
damp. I can feel its damp in the air. All my carpets are damp when you
walk on them - yet I cant find the cause. I've looked for leaks, gutters,
floorboards.

Signs of mould are now beginning to appear on walls, black bitty stuff.
( those which have an outside surface) . Wallpaper is feeling damp and it
is peeling in a couple of corners. Never had that before ( except in the
bathroom - always have a condensation problem there).

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is double
glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick built
detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

All condensation problems are caused by lack of heat and/or ventilation, do
you have the windows open or have proper vents?

Are you cooking a lot without turning the extractor on?

Anyway, pop down Argos and buy a dehumidifier (about £70) and dry it out
before the mould spreads, if you can't open the windows.

I would find the source of the problem first. Dehumidifiers
can easily damage timber such as floorboards in a building.

Have you got a solid concrete floor, or a suspended timber floor?
I would take a peek under the floor coverings, and in the case of
a suspended timber floor, under the floor.

If you are on a water meter, check it's not spinning round when you
aren't expecting to be using water, e.g. due to a leak somewhere.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
endymion wrote:
I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a
brick built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

Have the windows built in ventilators? Earlier designs did not - all new
ones have to have. If they have, are they all open?

Does your household do lots of washing and drying with the windows always
closed? Lots of showering or bathing? Is the damp worse in some rooms than
others?

Thing is most human activities produce moisture - even just breathing.
Some houses of that era were pretty well sealed to external air movement.
Especially if they have solid floors.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 08:19:27 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

Anyway, pop down Argos and buy a dehumidifier (about £70) and dry it out
before the mould spreads, if you can't open the windows.

I'm glad you put the "if you can't open the windows" rider on that. Air
circulation within the building, a liitle ventilation (forced in the
kitchen and bathroom when in use and for 30 mins to an hour afterwards(*))
will almost certainly cure the problem.

(*) Timed or fit an extrator fan with a built in humidistat. But note that
a humidistat controlled fan might trigger in the early hours when the air
in the house cools and the RH goes up.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 07:59:52 +0100, endymion wrote:

I know its been damp outside and I know I have switched all heating off
but cant account for the dampness I am now getting. I have had the
heating off before in summer and not had this.

In the same house? I have a very vague memory that you have only moved
into this place in the last year but could be wrong with that.

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick
built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

I doubt it was orginally constructed with double glazing or roof
insulation. With the replacement windows there is now not enough
ventilation to remove the warm damp air inside. Open the windows or the
trickle vents if they exist. Use any extractor fans in the kitchen and/or
bathroom to remove the exccess moisture, don't dry clothes inside on
racks. Lack of heat inside will mean the walls will cool, if they go below
the dewpoint of the air inside you will get condensation aka damp. You can
lower the dewpoint of the air by making it warmer or by removing moisture.


Getting these problems in August suggests a water leak. I know it's been
wet, but it hasn't been cold. Washing still dries on the line despite
the high RH levels.

endymion wrote:

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick
built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

drying clothes indoors?
Made that mistake myself.

De-humidifier sorted out both the accomulated moisture and clothes drying.

In article ,
www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a
brick built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

drying clothes indoors?
Made that mistake myself.

I always dry clothes indoors. But since pretty well every room in this
house - including the kitchen - has a working chimney and trickle vents on
any double glazing it's pretty well ventilated. Of course I'm not doing
huge amounts of washing like those with a young family might.

--
*OK, who stopped payment on my reality check?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod saying
something like:

Seems to me it hasn't been just the usual summer 'damp outside', but
extraordinarily damp - and with little relief. (Currently 17.9C and
72.5% RH - but has been consistently 98% for hour after hour many days.)

I've noticed it too, this year. I've been paying more attention to
indoor humidity levels because I have a small collection of lenses and
cameras I've acquired over the last 12 months and have to keep in
relatively low humidity.
I've not seen 98%, but plenty of days in the 80%s, although that's
reading a cheapy greenhouse humidity meter (which surprisingly tallies
very closely with daily Met Office figures for my area).

I'm now looking at heating the cupboard the stuff is kept in - just a
20W tubular heater would do it, I reckon.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...


I'm now looking at heating the cupboard the stuff is kept in - just a
20W tubular heater would do it, I reckon.

20w dehumidifier would be better.

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod saying
something like:

Seems to me it hasn't been just the usual summer 'damp outside', but
extraordinarily damp - and with little relief. (Currently 17.9C and
72.5% RH - but has been consistently 98% for hour after hour many days.)

I've noticed it too, this year. I've been paying more attention to
indoor humidity levels because I have a small collection of lenses and
cameras I've acquired over the last 12 months and have to keep in
relatively low humidity.
I've not seen 98%, but plenty of days in the 80%s, although that's
reading a cheapy greenhouse humidity meter (which surprisingly tallies
very closely with daily Met Office figures for my area).

I'm now looking at heating the cupboard the stuff is kept in - just a
20W tubular heater would do it, I reckon.

My awareness has greatly increased since getting a (very) cheap Tchibo
indoor/outdoor thing several years ago. I upgraded to an Oregon with
three remotes last year - that seems to agree with Met Office, feeling
and reality (i.e. when it is ****ing down it goes to 98% at times - the
max. it can read). Would like a *good* Davies or something but
priorities mean that isn't going to happen for a while.

63% at 23.9 on one side of the house at the moment.

Seems many years the ground dries out. Along the road there is a winter
bourne (apparently a stream that normally runs only in winter). For
years it has never been more than a dribble and much of the summer its
bed was like concrete. People seemed ot think it would never run again.
But this summer it has been full of reasonably fast flowing water. I
guess when the ground water is so high, any sun will tend to evaporate
that and plants will transpire at a rate of knots. All of which will
build up and produce the hazy, sticky, humid days we have been having.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
endymion wrote:
I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a
brick built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

Thanks to everyone for their replies. Today the sun has been shining and it
is dry - and they house is dryer too. So it must be condensation from
somewhere.

Have the windows built in ventilators? Earlier designs did not - all new
ones have to have. If they have, are they all open?

There are earlier design windows. In fact I suspect they may have been put
in back in the 1970's/80's when double glazing was a new thing. There are no
ventilators . I have not had the windows open as it was so cold . So
possibly there is no air movement here. The house could be well sealed.


Does your household do lots of washing and drying with the windows always
closed? Lots of showering or bathing? Is the damp worse in some rooms than
others?

Showers certainly we have. I havent exactly washed a lot in the last two
weeks ( that makes me sound dirty but its just I knew I couldnt dry it
easily. Do sometimes use a tumble dryer ( but its a new washer dryer and the
dryer is a condenser).

The damp certainly seems to concentrate. Having looked further this morning.
Its in one bedroom I dont use except as a study ( thats the garlic smelling
room) . Its in the kitchen. Bathroom is always bad and I always have a
window open in there. Its in the sitting room too. The walls affected are
the ones which are external Mostly the North and NE ones but I had started
to feel dampness in the hal and main bedroom

Its the carpet in the sitting room that seems to be taking the damp if you
can understand that. I looked under the carpet and underlay and cant see
anything on the floorboards/ void.

The floors are suspended. Wooden ones.

"dennis@home" wrote in message
...


"endymion" wrote in message
...

I am out of ideas for the cause. Anyone any experiences? House is
double glazed except for two windows, and roof insulated. Its a brick
built detached bungalow circa 1958 build.

All condensation problems are caused by lack of heat and/or ventilation,
do you have the windows open or have proper vents?

The windows have been closed because its been so cold. The windows do not
have vents of any kind.

Are you cooking a lot without turning the extractor on?

I dont have an extractor fan in my kitchen at all. I know cooking does
sometimes affect the kitchen ( sundays mostly) but I have recently had a new
cooker ( two weeks ago) which is fan assisted in the oven. I cant see that
making a difference though. But it does coincide with the damp in the
kitchen wall ( the damp the is on the opposite wall to the cooker - the wall
concerned is the exterior wall to the house.

I have been cleaning the mould off the wals but its spreading in bits. -
like its flying in the air and landing in odd places.

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"dennis@home" writes:
"endymion" wrote in message
...
I seem to be running into all sorts of issues . This started with my
Have you got a solid concrete floor, or a suspended timber floor?
I would take a peek under the floor coverings, and in the case of
a suspended timber floor, under the floor.

The floors are all suspended and timber. We dont have a cellar . We do have
a void under the house. I have had carpets etc. up this morning. The
floors ( wood) are dry. Its the carpets/ tiles that are getting damp/ wet. I
have to say wet. They feel wet to walk on, as if I have had a carpet cleaner
out and shampooed them over ( I have not)

If you are on a water meter, check it's not spinning round when you
aren't expecting to be using water, e.g. due to a leak somewhere.

I am not on a water meter but we did have a water leak a while back .
Husband fixed it and put in new pipe work. The water doesnt come under the
house at all. It comes in at the kitchen and travels through to the
bathroom. But there is no sign of a leak this morning.

Its looking like a bad case of condensation I think isnt it?

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 08:19:27 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

Anyway, pop down Argos and buy a dehumidifier (about £70) and dry it out
before the mould spreads, if you can't open the windows.

I'm glad you put the "if you can't open the windows" rider on that. Air
circulation within the building, a liitle ventilation (forced in the
kitchen and bathroom when in use and for 30 mins to an hour afterwards(*))
will almost certainly cure the problem.

(*) Timed or fit an extrator fan with a built in humidistat. But note that
a humidistat controlled fan might trigger in the early hours when the air
in the house cools and the RH goes up.

I have never used a de humidifier. I have to say the thought worries me
although I am not sure why.

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
Dave Liquorice wrote:


I doubt it was orginally constructed with double glazing or roof
insulation. With the replacement windows there is now not enough
ventilation to remove the warm damp air inside. Open the windows or the
trickle vents if they exist. Use any extractor fans in the kitchen and/or
bathroom to remove the exccess moisture, don't dry clothes inside on
racks. Lack of heat inside will mean the walls will cool, if they go
below the dewpoint of the air inside you will get condensation aka damp.
You can lower the dewpoint of the air by making it warmer or by removing
moisture.


Getting these problems in August suggests a water leak. I know it's been
wet, but it hasn't been cold. Washing still dries on the line despite the
high RH levels.

I know some parts of the country have had much better weather than us. Its
been very cold here as well as wet. Raining almost permanently and nothing d
rying out. I have had all the windows closed. I opened them today. Have
asked hubby to investigate fans in kitchen and bathroom. He has often said
we need a fan in the bathroom, just never done it.

I don't know if the new cooker is making a difference in the kitchen?

But the sitting room and main bedroom are a new issue and a mystery.

The message
from "endymion" contains these words:


I have never used a de humidifier. I have to say the thought worries me
although I am not sure why.

Can't imagine why it should worry you. I have one in my archive room in
a detached outbuilding. On 24/365 (on a humidistat, of course) but not
plumbed in. This summer it's taken FAR more moisture out of the air
than ever before. These things do work.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "dennis@home"
saying something like:

I'm now looking at heating the cupboard the stuff is kept in - just a
20W tubular heater would do it, I reckon.

20w dehumidifier would be better.

Hah. I'd need a bigger cupboard
Not a bad idea, actually. Only the lenses and the better cameras are
kept in the small cupboard (which is really a set of office drawers) and
if I were to keep all the kit together it would fill a small closet /
cupboard with room for a D-H.
Hmm... an old wardrobe would be a starting point.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Rod saying
something like:

i.e. when it is ****ing down it goes to 98% at times - the
max. it can read).

Ah right - outside; all is clear.


63% at 23.9 on one side of the house at the moment.

Been 23C and 72% here all day - indoors.

Seems many years the ground dries out. Along the road there is a winter
bourne (apparently a stream that normally runs only in winter). For
years it has never been more than a dribble and much of the summer its
bed was like concrete. People seemed ot think it would never run again.
But this summer it has been full of reasonably fast flowing water. I
guess when the ground water is so high, any sun will tend to evaporate
that and plants will transpire at a rate of knots. All of which will
build up and produce the hazy, sticky, humid days we have been having.

It's amazing the difference the transpiration of plants makes to the
ground - an area I knocked the grass and weeds from a few months ago
became quite sodden, even allowing for the extra rainfall, as last year
the same ground in the same weather wasn't anything like as wet. There's
huge amounts of water carried up and away like that.

Of course, in a wider sense, there's all the extra land drainage which
doesn't give the soil much of a chance to absorb the extra water and it
gets channeled off into watercourses to flood the unlucky sods
downstream.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

Appin wrote:
The message
from "endymion" contains these words:


I have never used a de humidifier. I have to say the thought worries me
although I am not sure why.

Can't imagine why it should worry you. I have one in my archive room in
a detached outbuilding. On 24/365 (on a humidistat, of course) but not
plumbed in. This summer it's taken FAR more moisture out of the air
than ever before. These things do work.

Of course they work. The question is where they're getting the air from.
Unless the area is sealed they're going to be pulling in air from
elsewhere, possibly from outside.

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
Appin wrote:
The message
from "endymion" contains these words:


I have never used a de humidifier. I have to say the thought worries me
although I am not sure why.

Can't imagine why it should worry you. I have one in my archive room in
a detached outbuilding. On 24/365 (on a humidistat, of course) but not
plumbed in. This summer it's taken FAR more moisture out of the air
than ever before. These things do work.

Of course they work. The question is where they're getting the air from.
Unless the area is sealed they're going to be pulling in air from
elsewhere, possibly from outside.

What? They take air in one side and pass it out the other. In the middle it
goes
over cold coils on which water condenses.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "newshound"
saying something like:

Of course they work. The question is where they're getting the air from.
Unless the area is sealed they're going to be pulling in air from
elsewhere, possibly from outside.

What? They take air in one side and pass it out the other. In the middle it
goes
over cold coils on which water condenses.

It raises a point - will moist air from outside infiltrate a drier area?
I appreciate the room air will be circulated throught the DH, but will
it attract moisture from outside via the normal air leaks in windows and
doors?
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

"Grimly Curmudgeon" wrote in message
...
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "newshound"
saying something like:

Of course they work. The question is where they're getting the air from.
Unless the area is sealed they're going to be pulling in air from
elsewhere, possibly from outside.

What? They take air in one side and pass it out the other. In the middle
it
goes
over cold coils on which water condenses.

It raises a point - will moist air from outside infiltrate a drier area?
I appreciate the room air will be circulated throught the DH, but will
it attract moisture from outside via the normal air leaks in windows and
doors?

It won't attract moisture.. it will remove the moisture from draughts into
the drying area.

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "newshound"
saying something like:

Of course they work. The question is where they're getting the air from.
Unless the area is sealed they're going to be pulling in air from
elsewhere, possibly from outside.
What? They take air in one side and pass it out the other. In the middle it
goes
over cold coils on which water condenses.

It raises a point - will moist air from outside infiltrate a drier area?
I appreciate the room air will be circulated throught the DH, but will
it attract moisture from outside via the normal air leaks in windows and
doors?

If the leaks are small, the DH will cope. If not, you'll be
dehumidifying the great outdoors. You can't really have ventilation and
dehumidification.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "dennis@home"
saying something like:



It raises a point - will moist air from outside infiltrate a drier area?
I appreciate the room air will be circulated throught the DH, but will
it attract moisture from outside via the normal air leaks in windows and
doors?

It won't attract moisture.. it will remove the moisture from draughts into
the drying area.

Yes, but will humid air tend to displace dry air? I just wonder how
important room sealing is - if not, then I need have no particular
worries, if so, I'd better attend to it.


--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember stuart noble
saying something like:

If the leaks are small, the DH will cope. If not, you'll be
dehumidifying the great outdoors. You can't really have ventilation and
dehumidification.

If there's a through flow of outside air, it would definitely be a waste
of time and money, true.

--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:30:49 +0100, endymion wrote:

I dont have an extractor fan in my kitchen at all. I know cooking does
sometimes affect the kitchen ( sundays mostly) but I have recently had a
new cooker ( two weeks ago) which is fan assisted in the oven. I cant
see that making a difference though.

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...

But it does coincide with the damp in the kitchen wall ( the damp the is
on the opposite wall to the cooker - the wall concerned is the exterior
wall to the house.

Exterior walls will be colder than interior and it happening at the same
time as the cooker change...

I have been cleaning the mould off the wals but its spreading in bits.
- like its flying in the air and landing in odd places.

Thats what mould does, spores in the air. Not a great deal you can do TBH
they are everywhere all the time just waiting to find a suitable habitat
to grow.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 21:06:49 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

I'm now looking at heating the cupboard the stuff is kept in - just a
20W tubular heater would do it, I reckon.

20w dehumidifier would be better.

Hah. I'd need a bigger cupboard
Not a bad idea, actually.

If you can get such a tiny dehumidfier. B-)

Anyway is the damage caused by the water vapour in the air or just the
damp/condesation if the objects get close or below the dewpoint? If the
latter just keeping 'em warm with a low power heater (15W tungsten light
bulb?) will do the trick but if it's the absolute humidty in the air then
you are into sealed cupboards and a control system to regulate the
humidity both up and down.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:37:39 +0100, endymion wrote:

(*) Timed or fit an extrator fan with a built in humidistat. But note
that a humidistat controlled fan might trigger in the early hours when
the air in the house cools and the RH goes up.

I have never used a de humidifier. I have to say the thought worries me
although I am not sure why.

Bigger electricity bill? You shouldn't need to use a dehumidfier if the
air is being changed properly and really warm wet stuff from cooking and
bathing is extracted.

A humidistat controlled fan is just an extractor fan that comes on when
the humidity of the air is above a preset amount, it goes off when below.
This isn't a dehumidfier they draw air through themselves and over a
cooled surface to condense and collect any water vapour in that air.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:30:49 +0100, endymion wrote:

I dont have an extractor fan in my kitchen at all. I know cooking does
sometimes affect the kitchen ( sundays mostly) but I have recently had a
new cooker ( two weeks ago) which is fan assisted in the oven. I cant
see that making a difference though.

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...


???
My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you have
heated it.

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:28:45 UTC, "dennis@home"
wrote:



"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:30:49 +0100, endymion wrote:

I dont have an extractor fan in my kitchen at all. I know cooking does
sometimes affect the kitchen ( sundays mostly) but I have recently had a
new cooker ( two weeks ago) which is fan assisted in the oven. I cant
see that making a difference though.

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...


???
My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you have
heated it.

Wow! A hermetically sealed oven...

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:28:45 UTC, "dennis@home"
wrote:



"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 17:30:49 +0100, endymion wrote:

I dont have an extractor fan in my kitchen at all. I know cooking
does
sometimes affect the kitchen ( sundays mostly) but I have recently had
a
new cooker ( two weeks ago) which is fan assisted in the oven. I
cant
see that making a difference though.

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...


???
My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you have
heated it.

Wow! A hermetically sealed oven...

It has a 1" vent, and the fan doesn't blow air through it.

Do other people really have cr@p ovens, that leak like sieves?
Mine wasn't exactly an expensive top of the range one.

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:07:05 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...

My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you
have heated it.

Wow! A hermetically sealed oven...

It has a 1" vent, and the fan doesn't blow air through it.

I bet more air comes out of that hole with the fan on than off. Fan ovens
are drier inside than a convection, that moisture must get out some how.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article et,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:07:05 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...

My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you
have heated it.

Wow! A hermetically sealed oven...

It has a 1" vent, and the fan doesn't blow air through it.

I bet more air comes out of that hole with the fan on than off. Fan
ovens are drier inside than a convection, that moisture must get out
some how.

My double oven Neff (both fan assisted) certainly blows out some air.

--
*Thank you. We're all refreshed and challenged by your unique point of view

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 02/09/2008 14:40, Huge wrote:
On 2008-09-02, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

My double oven Neff (both fan assisted) certainly blows out some air.

It almost certainly has a second fan that circulates air between the inner and
outer casing for cooling - my Neff oven does - and that's what you can feel.

Indeed, the second fan stays on after use on mine, specifically to cool
the oven, they recommend not leaving the door open to cool it faster, in
case the escaping heat harms the seals.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Liquorice"
saying something like:

Hah. I'd need a bigger cupboard
Not a bad idea, actually.

If you can get such a tiny dehumidfier. B-)

Anyway is the damage caused by the water vapour in the air or just the
damp/condesation if the objects get close or below the dewpoint?

The former, really - it's fungus in lenses and cameras I'm trying to
guard against. There's never any condensation, but fungal growth will be
inhibited if RH is below 50% to the best of my knowledge. At the moment
RH in the room is 70% and tends to range between 60% and 80%.

If the
latter just keeping 'em warm with a low power heater (15W tungsten light
bulb?) will do the trick but if it's the absolute humidty in the air then
you are into sealed cupboards and a control system to regulate the
humidity both up and down.

I've decided against trying to seal the room - too much hassle and it
would be all for nought every time a door or window was opened out of
necessity. So, a big cupboard is the thing - I have a wardrobe-sized
shelving unit which I can enclose and keep relatively sealed, with a
heater in the base of it.
It'll be cheap enough to give it a go - got to be better than the
current storage system, which is a drawer unit for the lenses and most
imporant cameras - only prevented from getting damp by the drawers not
being opened much.
As a temporary measure I have plenty of plastic Tupperware-type
containers for lens storage which I will use with silica gel packets to
keep the RH low inside. Getting more silica gel packs locally is a
problem - I've run out of the small stock I had acquired over the years
and they have a finite life anyway.
--
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
How much more suspenseful can you get?"
- House

"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.net...
On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:07:05 +0100, dennis@home wrote:

Fan assisted to tend to blow more air out and be dryer inside than a
convection oven. This extra mositure ends up in the room...

My fan oven doesn't blow air out.. the fan only circulates the air.
It would be a pretty stupid design that blows the air out after you
have heated it.

Wow! A hermetically sealed oven...

It has a 1" vent, and the fan doesn't blow air through it.

I bet more air comes out of that hole with the fan on than off. Fan ovens
are drier inside than a convection, that moisture must get out some how.

Funny, I find them more moist.
I don't even need foil unless I am roasting something for hours.

Are you sure you are talking about a fan convection oven and not something
else?