Hi all

On the point of needing to buy wood (preferably engineered) flooring.
Er-indoors was taken with some B & Q stuff with contoured surface. My
concern with this is that if you need to sand it, it would be necessary to
sand all the contours out to get rid of grime, scuffs etc.
So I am trying to stear her in the direction of flat planks.
But I'm not sure of the (dis)advantages of oil over laquer finish. Which
would be easier to repair in the event of divots?
Also, any recommendations for dark (antique looking) engineered oak
suppliers?

TIA

Phil

On Oct 30, 1:51 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

On the point of needing to buy wood (preferably engineered) flooring.
Er-indoors was taken with some B & Q stuff with contoured surface. My
concern with this is that if you need to sand it, it would be necessary to
sand all the contours out to get rid of grime, scuffs etc.
So I am trying to stear her in the direction of flat planks.
But I'm not sure of the (dis)advantages of oil over laquer finish. Which
would be easier to repair in the event of divots?
Also, any recommendations for dark (antique looking) engineered oak
suppliers?

TIA

Phil

to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

JimK

"JimK" wrote



to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

JimK

Thanks Jim - just the feedback I was looking for

Phil

On Oct 30, 4:54 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
"JimK" wrote



to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

JimK

Thanks Jim - just the feedback I was looking for

Phil

pleasure - indeed some friends had the bumpy "hand scraped" stuff in
their lounge - IMHO it felt *very* odd under bare foot and looked a
bit twee as well - too bumpy to be realistic somehow --- course they
thought it was the dogs proverbials but I expect they couldn't accept
something that cost them that much could be so ..erm..
unimpressive?.....

we have solid oak glued onto concrete then oiled with osmo hardwax oil
- doing OK considering what gets thrown at it - dogs, kids, etc and
not that expensive compared to even some laminates - £25/m2 incll VAT
I paid last time (few years now)

cheers
JimK

JimK wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:51 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

On the point of needing to buy wood (preferably engineered) flooring.
Er-indoors was taken with some B & Q stuff with contoured surface.
My concern with this is that if you need to sand it, it would be
necessary to sand all the contours out to get rid of grime, scuffs
etc.
So I am trying to stear her in the direction of flat planks.
But I'm not sure of the (dis)advantages of oil over laquer finish.
Which would be easier to repair in the event of divots?
Also, any recommendations for dark (antique looking) engineered oak
suppliers?

TIA

Phil

to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

Yup, oiled is much easier to patch, no need to sand to obtain a key.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

JimK
wibbled on Friday 30 October 2009 16:38

On Oct 30, 1:51 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

On the point of needing to buy wood (preferably engineered) flooring.
Er-indoors was taken with some B & Q stuff with contoured surface. My
concern with this is that if you need to sand it, it would be necessary
to sand all the contours out to get rid of grime, scuffs etc.
So I am trying to stear her in the direction of flat planks.
But I'm not sure of the (dis)advantages of oil over laquer finish. Which
would be easier to repair in the event of divots?
Also, any recommendations for dark (antique looking) engineered oak
suppliers?

TIA

Phil

to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

JimK

Agree. I got the Kahrs Oiled and applying a coat of the oil is a piece of
****. It's so little effort that doing it a 6 monthly intervals for an
initial period (recommended to build up the surface) is not a problem at
all.

In my view, if it's likely to get knocked about, oil is best.


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Oct 31, 4:17 am, Tim W wrote:
JimK
wibbled on Friday 30 October 2009 16:38



On Oct 30, 1:51 pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
Hi all

On the point of needing to buy wood (preferably engineered) flooring.
Er-indoors was taken with some B & Q stuff with contoured surface. My
concern with this is that if you need to sand it, it would be necessary
to sand all the contours out to get rid of grime, scuffs etc.
So I am trying to stear her in the direction of flat planks.
But I'm not sure of the (dis)advantages of oil over laquer finish. Which
would be easier to repair in the event of divots?
Also, any recommendations for dark (antique looking) engineered oak
suppliers?

TIA

Phil

to my eye oiled looks better but wears quicker, but is easier to patch
up and dints etc add to the character, lacquer is harder, shinier,
"moderner" and wears slower but could be a PITA to patch (as opposed
to refinish) to get the same shiny crisp "aseptic" finish....

JimK

Agree. I got the Kahrs Oiled and applying a coat of the oil is a piece of
****. It's so little effort that doing it a 6 monthly intervals for an
initial period (recommended to build up the surface) is not a problem at
all.

In my view, if it's likely to get knocked about, oil is best.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 08:02


I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

Me or the OP?

Why?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

On Oct 31, 10:29 am, Tim W wrote:
JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 08:02

I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

Me or the OP?

Why?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

you, just cos i've been meaning to chuck another coat of oil over our
floors since I did them --several years ago -- but with constant use
by untrained/untrainables there's never been a window of opp yet!

What oil do you use and how long to dry?

Cheers
JimK

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 11:41

On Oct 31, 10:29 am, Tim W wrote:
JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 08:02

I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

Me or the OP?

Why?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

you, just cos i've been meaning to chuck another coat of oil over our
floors since I did them --several years ago -- but with constant use
by untrained/untrainables there's never been a window of opp yet!

Ah. Yes I have sprogs - that's why I went for oil, like I wax my table. It
won;t last as long, but whatever you do will sustain wear (it's impossible
to avoid with kids and pets) and the oil as other's have said does
rejuvinate well, and easiliy, unlike laquer.

What oil do you use and how long to dry?

As it's a Kahrs floor, I used the recommended stuff with is this:

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...fo_710554.html

It's expensive, but a little goes a long way. It's not at all like danish
oil and application technique isn't that critical. It does have
instructions for doing 1/2 room at a time, wait a few hours, shove
furniture the other side and do the other 1/2.

You need one of these:

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...nfo_UFC79.html

But a B&Q microfibre cloth works perfectly well too - just machine wash it
immediately after use or you'll end up binning it.

HTH

Tim
--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 11:41

On Oct 31, 10:29 am, Tim W wrote:
JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 08:02

I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

Me or the OP?

Why?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

you, just cos i've been meaning to chuck another coat of oil over our
floors since I did them --several years ago -- but with constant use
by untrained/untrainables there's never been a window of opp yet!

Yes I have sprogs. I went for oiled for the same reason I wax my dinig
table. It won't last as well, but whatever you do they will sustain damage,
so I'd rather have the easy to rejuvinate option

What oil do you use and how long to dry?

The proper stuff for Kahrs (which I have):

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...fo_710554.html

It's expensive but a little goes a long way. It's not like danish oil so
application isn't difficult or critical. It dries fast too so you can do
1/2 room at a time, moving furniture after a few hours - thus it is
possible to do it when the kids are at school. Khars have explicit
instructions for doing 1/2 room at a time.

You'll need something like this to apply it:

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...nfo_UFC79.html

I used a B&Q microfibre mop and that worked pretty well too. Just wash the
mop afterwards otherwise it's a bin job.

HTH

Tim


--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

Tim W
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 12:50

JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 11:41

On Oct 31, 10:29 am, Tim W wrote:
JimK
wibbled on Saturday 31 October 2009 08:02

I conclude you have no dogs or kids (or a very large house!) :))

JimK

Me or the OP?

Why?

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...

you, just cos i've been meaning to chuck another coat of oil over our
floors since I did them --several years ago -- but with constant use
by untrained/untrainables there's never been a window of opp yet!

Yes I have sprogs. I went for oiled for the same reason I wax my dinig
table. It won't last as well, but whatever you do they will sustain
damage, so I'd rather have the easy to rejuvinate option

What oil do you use and how long to dry?

The proper stuff for Kahrs (which I have):

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...fo_710554.html

It's expensive but a little goes a long way. It's not like danish oil so
application isn't difficult or critical. It dries fast too so you can do
1/2 room at a time, moving furniture after a few hours - thus it is
possible to do it when the kids are at school. Khars have explicit
instructions for doing 1/2 room at a time.

You'll need something like this to apply it:

http://www.1926woodflooring.co.uk/ac...nfo_UFC79.html

I used a B&Q microfibre mop and that worked pretty well too. Just wash the
mop afterwards otherwise it's a bin job.

HTH

Tim



Woops - thought I'd lost the original reply, so did it again. Apparantly
not.

--
Tim Watts

This space intentionally left blank...