On Oct 13, 9:55*pm, "Bobby Bewl" wrote:
Comet have delivered a gas cooker and a Gas Safe man. *I have kept the
former and sent the latter back as he reckons my cooker point is too high
and should be on the left. *He also says the 20 year bayonet point should be
pointing down. *Another Gas Safe man says there are no such rules/regs.
Does anyone on here know what the regs are for the gas cooker point?

Well "should" in law is different in meaning to "must".

Cross-posted to uk.d-i-y because there are actual gas safe people
there :-)

"js.b1" wrote in message
...
On Oct 13, 9:55 pm, "Bobby Bewl" wrote:
Comet have delivered a gas cooker and a Gas Safe man. I have kept the
former and sent the latter back as he reckons my cooker point is too high
and should be on the left. He also says the 20 year bayonet point should
be
pointing down. Another Gas Safe man says there are no such rules/regs.
Does anyone on here know what the regs are for the gas cooker point?

Well "should" in law is different in meaning to "must".

Cross-posted to uk.d-i-y because there are actual gas safe people
there :-)

I am not a lawyer so I do not know. In any event it does not help me
although your cross posting is a good idea - thank you.

Bobby

On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:17:01 -0700, js.b1 wrote:

On Oct 13, 9:55Â*pm, "Bobby Bewl" wrote:
Comet have delivered a gas cooker and a Gas Safe man. Â*I have kept the
former and sent the latter back as he reckons my cooker point is too high
and should be on the left. Â*He also says the 20 year bayonet point should be
pointing down. Â*Another Gas Safe man says there are no such rules/regs.
Does anyone on here know what the regs are for the gas cooker point?

Cross-posted to uk.d-i-y because there are actual gas safe people
there :-)

You'd probably find chapter and verse in the appropriate British Standard,
which I'll look up for you if you'll just supply me with your valid Credit
Card details ;-)

My older (3rd) edition of the installers' "Essential Gas Safety" manual
(the current copy lives in the van) says that the hose should be looped
downwards and under no stress. This would imply that the bayonet outlet
must face down. and that the bayonet should be positioned such that the
hose can hang in such a loop when the cooker is in its normal position.



--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

Death is nature's way of telling you to slow down

"YAPH" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:17:01 -0700, js.b1 wrote:

On Oct 13, 9:55 pm, "Bobby Bewl" wrote:
Comet have delivered a gas cooker and a Gas Safe man. I have kept the
former and sent the latter back as he reckons my cooker point is too
high
and should be on the left. He also says the 20 year bayonet point should
be
pointing down. Another Gas Safe man says there are no such rules/regs.
Does anyone on here know what the regs are for the gas cooker point?

Cross-posted to uk.d-i-y because there are actual gas safe people
there :-)

You'd probably find chapter and verse in the appropriate British Standard,
which I'll look up for you if you'll just supply me with your valid Credit
Card details ;-)

My older (3rd) edition of the installers' "Essential Gas Safety" manual
(the current copy lives in the van) says that the hose should be looped
downwards and under no stress. This would imply that the bayonet outlet
must face down. and that the bayonet should be positioned such that the
hose can hang in such a loop when the cooker is in its normal position.

--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

Thank you for that. I am going to have another chat with the second, local
Gas Safe Man about the matter and get him to install the cooker.

Bobby

From viper...
- Historic - gas supply point 500-600mm from the floor... 50-150mm
from the RHS
- Current - standards suggest 750mm with no guidance L or R
- Bayonet fitting - example diagram show a downwards pointing wall
fitting

Such that the hose can hang free, without being stressed, below any
oven flue outlet, and permit the cooker to be moved forward to enable
disconnection of a bayonet fitting.

I suspect 750mm has been chosen to reduce the risk of someone tipping
a cooker over trying to reach down, stability bracket &/or chain not
withstanding. I grew up with an old cast iron cannon, so heavy it was
hilarious, miserable insulation, and pilots leaked like a pig such
that the HSE would have put it on a military test range and blown it
up.

Go with a local fitter so you have an easy single point of
responsibility.

js.b1 wrote:
On Oct 13, 9:55 pm, "Bobby Bewl" wrote:

and should be on the left. He also says the 20 year bayonet point should be
pointing down. Another Gas Safe man says there are no such rules/regs.
Does anyone on here know what the regs are for the gas cooker point?

Cross-posted to uk.d-i-y because there are actual gas safe people
there :-)

I'm not GasSafe (I might or might not be gas safe) but I believe a
bayonet elbow is supposed to point down. The idea is that if the hose
becomes disconnected it will fall out, and the spring-loaded valve in
the elbow will close. Otherwise, the hose fitting could disconnect
sufficiently to be no longer sealed, but remain sitting in place with
its central prong still holding the valve open, creating a leak.

Pete

"Pete Verdon" d wrote in
message ...

I'm not GasSafe (I might or might not be gas safe) but I believe a bayonet
elbow is supposed to point down. The idea is that if the hose becomes
disconnected it will fall out, and the spring-loaded valve in the elbow
will close. Otherwise, the hose fitting could disconnect sufficiently to
be no longer sealed, but remain sitting in place with its central prong
still holding the valve open, creating a leak.

That would be a pretty stupid design assumption.. the hoses are so stiff
they probably wouldn't fall out anyway.
You would have to have it 6 foot up the wall and hanging down to get it to
fall out.
I would think the reason you have it pointing down is to stop dirt falling
in it.

wrote:
Pete Verdon d wrote:

Otherwise, the hose fitting could disconnect
sufficiently to be no longer sealed, but remain sitting in place with
its central prong still holding the valve open, creating a leak.

If it's a sensible design, the central prong should disengage /before/ the
seal breaks.

It's true that it *should*, but not having played with one recently I
can't remember if it actually is made that way or not. Since it's a
standard connection it's not trivial to introduce an improved version,
so I wouldn't be amazed to find that it doesn't have the failsafe you
describe.

Pete