I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's not
possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work fine if
I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each
end.

So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example, it's
(relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a board is
close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this damned near
impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's not
possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work fine if
I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each
end.

So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example, it's
(relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a board is
close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this damned near
impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of the mitre
you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using something like a
coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving will fit over the other
one. Measure the distance from root to root of the existing coving, mark
the mitre exactly as you would normally (from the root to the end) and do
the same there.

Cash

Cash wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's not
possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work fine
if I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each
end.

So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example,
it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a
board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this
damned near impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of the
mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using
something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving
will fit over the other one. Measure the distance from root to root
of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would normally
(from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Exactly right. Depending on the length though, it might be easier to
profile the end of two lengths & then join them with a mitre.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 27 Sep, 23:09, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. *Normally, I would mitre but that's not
possible with the others in situ. *Nonetheless, it should work fine if
I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each
end.

So what's the problem? *Well, when scribing skirting for example, it's
(relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a board is
close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this damned near
impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

Cut *a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of the mitre
you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. *Using something like a
coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving will fit over the other
one. *Measure the distance from root to root of the existing coving, mark
the mitre exactly as you would normally (from the root to the end) and do
the same there.

Cash

Cash,
That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of an
idiot: What do you mean by the root of the mitre? I'm sure it's the
right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not define
it!

Cheers!

GMM wrote:
On 27 Sep, 23:09, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's not
possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work fine
if I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile at each
end.

So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example,
it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a
board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this
damned near impossible.

Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?

Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of the
mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using
something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving
will fit over the other one. Measure the distance from root to root
of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would normally
(from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Cash

Cash,
That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of an
idiot: What do you mean by the root of the mitre? I'm sure it's the
right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not define
it!

Cheers!

When you cut the mitre from the face to the back - you end up with the
'pointy bit' at the top (end of the coving) - t'other end is the root.

If you are still having problems, I'll try and show you with a couple of
photos (I can't do this at the moment as the old computer is slaving away
backing up several gigabytes of photographs on a USB memory stick).

Cash

John Rumm wrote:
GMM wrote:
On 27 Sep, 23:09, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but that's
not possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it should work
fine if I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile
at each end.
So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example,
it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a
board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this
damned near impossible.
Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?
Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of
the mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using
something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving
will fit over the other one. Measure the distance from root to
root of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would
normally (from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Cash

Cash,
That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of
an idiot: What do you mean by the root of the mitre? I'm sure it's
the right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not
define it!

If you look at the piccies he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Scribed_Joints

In step two, the root is the bit nearest you - you can see the right
hand side of the blue section exactly describes the cut you need.


Thanks, for showing GMM that John, it makes life a lot easier than trying to
describe it. (I normally show people how to do it practically, it's easier).

Cash

On 28 Sep, 19:18, "Cash"
wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
GMM wrote:
On 27 Sep, 23:09, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has the
same coving on each end wall. *Normally, I would mitre but that's
not possible with the others in situ. *Nonetheless, it should work
fine if I cut it to the right length and scribe the right profile
at each end.
So what's the problem? *Well, when scribing skirting for example,
it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a
board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this
damned near impossible.
Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?
Cut *a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of
the mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. *Using
something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving
will fit over the other one. *Measure the distance from root to
root of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would
normally (from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Cash

Cash,
That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of
an idiot: *What do you mean by the root of the mitre? *I'm sure it's
the right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not
define it!

If you look at the piccies he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Scribed_Joints

In step two, the root is the bit nearest you - you can see the right
hand side of the blue section exactly describes the cut you need.

Thanks, for showing GMM that John, it makes life a lot easier than trying to
describe it. (I normally show people how to do it practically, it's easier).

Cash

Ahh...Now I'm with you! Thanks chaps.......Although I'm still trying
to transpose that onto the coving situation, where the curves kind of
go in t'other direction. It almost looks like cutting a 45degree
mitre then trimming off the taper through the thickness of the
material should do the job. I wouldn't normally be so cautious/
calculating, but I have about 6 inches of spare on the piece of coving
I have before I have to go and shell out on another pack and, being a
tightwad, don't want to have to make another donation to Wickes on
this particular job. The Duropolymer stuff is very good, but not the
cheapest thing in the shop...

GMM wrote:
On 28 Sep, 19:18, "Cash"
wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
GMM wrote:
On 27 Sep, 23:09, "Cash"
wrote:
GMM wrote:
I need to fit a length of coving along a wall that already has
the same coving on each end wall. Normally, I would mitre but
that's not possible with the others in situ. Nonetheless, it
should work fine if I cut it to the right length and scribe the
right profile at each end.
So what's the problem? Well, when scribing skirting for example,
it's (relatively) easy to transfer the profile as the face of a
board is close to flat, but the curve of the coving makes this
damned near impossible.
Does anyone have a clever trick for this, or is it just a case of
guess it and use plenty of filler when it goes belly up?
Cut a 45 degree mitre as you normally would, and at the root of
the mitre you will see the exact shape that you need to cut. Using
something like a coping saw, follow that profile - and the coving
will fit over the other one. Measure the distance from root to
root of the existing coving, mark the mitre exactly as you would
normally (from the root to the end) and do the same there.

Cash

Cash,
That sounds like the voice of an expert, so now for the question of
an idiot: What do you mean by the root of the mitre? I'm sure it's
the right technical term, but googling only seems to use it, not
define it!

If you look at the piccies he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Scribed_Joints

In step two, the root is the bit nearest you - you can see the right
hand side of the blue section exactly describes the cut you need.

Thanks, for showing GMM that John, it makes life a lot easier than
trying to describe it. (I normally show people how to do it
practically, it's easier).

Cash

Ahh...Now I'm with you! Thanks chaps.......Although I'm still trying
to transpose that onto the coving situation, where the curves kind of
go in t'other direction. It almost looks like cutting a 45degree
mitre then trimming off the taper through the thickness of the
material should do the job. I wouldn't normally be so cautious/
calculating, but I have about 6 inches of spare on the piece of coving
I have before I have to go and shell out on another pack and, being a
tightwad, don't want to have to make another donation to Wickes on
this particular job. The Duropolymer stuff is very good, but not the
cheapest thing in the shop...

GMM,

Your - " It almost looks like cutting a 45degree mitre then trimming off the
taper through the thickness of the material should do the job" - is
precisely that, and believe it or not, it really is easy to do. Just follow
the instructions and diagrams in the link that John Rumm gave.

To "transpose that onto the coving situation" - just work out how the mitres
would have gone had you been putting up all the coving from 'scratch' and
that will be the 'cut'.

*Tip* - if you have a spare length (or two) of skirting board or similar
with any type of mould on (from a simple round edge to a complex moulding),
then use that to practice on as the method will be exactly the same.

Best of luck with the job

Cash

Snipped

To "transpose that onto the coving situation" - just work out how the
mitres would have gone had you been putting up all the coving from
'scratch' and that will be the 'cut'.

*Tip* - if you have a spare length (or two) of skirting board or
similar with any type of mould on (from a simple round edge to a
complex moulding), then use that to practice on as the method will be
exactly the same.
Best of luck with the job

Cash

GMM,

To add to that, if you can pop into the likes of B & Q (or even Wickes) and
pick up a length or two of their cheapest coving just to practise on - then
that would be even better.

Cash

(Who pressed the send button before he finished the last post) :-)