explained :
After a careful ride home, I checked it again and found that the steel(?)
screws/bolt holding one side of
the visor hinge to the main helmet body had sheared, leaving the bolt stub
inside the body and rendering the helmet pretty much
fit only for the bin.

Normally I'm pretty impressed with the quality of Lidl stuff but this had me
thinking what good the helmet might have been if
I'd had a spill.

I bought one too, the one sold with the spare visor, but I don't
remember paying that much for it. Mine is still going strong a very
comfortable, just a bit heavy compared to my other much more expensive
one.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield formulated on Thursday :
Roger Mills was thinking very hard :
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

It happens that Roger Mills formulated :
Looks like a better spec too, in that it's *definitely* a compound
mitre and not just a mitre. OK, it's 1500 watts instead of 1700 -
but that should be adequate.

It doesn't actually say compound mitre, are you sure?

Well, if my understanding of "compound" in this context is correct, yes.

You can cut compound bevels - which are at an angle to the axes of the wood
in two different planes. Firstly, you can rotate the cutting assembly
through +/- 45 degrees in plan view - which *all* mitre saws can do. *Then*
you can tilt the blade about a horizontal axis. [The text calls one of
these "miter" (sic) and the other "bevel" - and defines the max cutting
capacity for various combinations of these].

I collected one this afternoon, after a bit of collection fiasco.

It is definitely a compound mitre, you can use either or both angles in the
same cut. The bevel only does 0 to 45 to the left. Not actually tried it yet,
but seems well built - no detectable play or give at all and very rigid.
Surprisingly, much more rigid than my cheapo mitre chop saw - even at full
out extension. The laser guide is also separately switched on and off to the
blade motor.

A little more following setting it up and running a few test pieces on
it. It runs smooth and fairly quite, the machined faces are very good
as good as you would expect on a top price machine and it moves very
smoothly back and forth, as if bearings are fitted on the traverse.

The table + and - 45 degrees drop into a notch at zero and the zero is
spot on. The bevel marking is similarly spot on.

The laser was not much use, except in a darkened room and (as
delivered) it was also 1/16" inside the cut from the right hand side.
It is adjustable though and can be set for the left or right edges.

The fiasco - I reserved the only one in stock at any store within 30
miles of home, at an Argos just a couple of miles from home and asked
my wife to ring and confirm that it would be collected late this
afternoon. Plenty of free parking and it could be collected at their
door (its an heavy awkard lump to carry). Well despite my reserving it,
it wasn't there - it was at a store 10 miles away and in a town centre
with no easy parking and a bus lane passing its front door, in the
midst of the rush hour, plus staff unhelpful when asked if it could be
collected from their loading bay.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

Harry Bloomfield formulated on Thursday :
Roger Mills was thinking very hard :
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:

It happens that Roger Mills formulated :
Looks like a better spec too, in that it's *definitely* a compound
mitre and not just a mitre. OK, it's 1500 watts instead of 1700 -
but that should be adequate.

It doesn't actually say compound mitre, are you sure?

Well, if my understanding of "compound" in this context is correct,
yes. You can cut compound bevels - which are at an angle to the axes of
the wood in two different planes. Firstly, you can rotate the
cutting assembly through +/- 45 degrees in plan view - which *all*
mitre saws can do. *Then* you can tilt the blade about a horizontal
axis. [The text calls one of these "miter" (sic) and the other
"bevel" - and defines the max cutting capacity for various
combinations of these].

I collected one this afternoon, after a bit of collection fiasco.

It is definitely a compound mitre, you can use either or both angles
in the same cut. The bevel only does 0 to 45 to the left. Not
actually tried it yet, but seems well built - no detectable play or
give at all and very rigid. Surprisingly, much more rigid than my
cheapo mitre chop saw - even at full out extension. The laser guide
is also separately switched on and off to the blade motor.

A little more following setting it up and running a few test pieces on
it. It runs smooth and fairly quite, the machined faces are very good
as good as you would expect on a top price machine and it moves very
smoothly back and forth, as if bearings are fitted on the traverse.

The table + and - 45 degrees drop into a notch at zero and the zero is
spot on. The bevel marking is similarly spot on.

The laser was not much use, except in a darkened room and (as
delivered) it was also 1/16" inside the cut from the right hand side.
It is adjustable though and can be set for the left or right edges.

The fiasco - I reserved the only one in stock at any store within 30
miles of home, at an Argos just a couple of miles from home and asked
my wife to ring and confirm that it would be collected late this
afternoon. Plenty of free parking and it could be collected at their
door (its an heavy awkard lump to carry). Well despite my reserving
it, it wasn't there - it was at a store 10 miles away and in a town
centre with no easy parking and a bus lane passing its front door, in
the midst of the rush hour, plus staff unhelpful when asked if it
could be collected from their loading bay.

I collected mine this morning, and I'm well impressed.

I was a bit worried that only one branch near me had any stock, and that
they only had one. I had visions of a duff one which someone else had bought
and brought back. Well, the box *had* been opened and resealed - but the saw
hadn't been used, and everything was there.

I've been using it this afternoon to cut some lengths of 2x2 for the frame
of a small lean-to shed/tool store. It makes nice clean accurate cuts and -
as you say - the sliding mechanism is very smooth. The laser seems to work
ok - but I had to partly shut the garage door in order to see it when the
sun moved round in that direction. I found that with the workpiece to the
right of the blade, aligning the pencil mark with the laser produced the cut
in exactly the right place but, with the workpiece on the left, I had to
offset it a bit to allow for the thickness of the blade. I didn't realise it
was adjustable - I'd better read the book!

I've screwed my saw to a piece of scrap worktop, with a batten screwed to
the underside - which I can grip in a Workmate to make a nice firm job
without needing to install it anywhere permanently.

I'll be interested to hear from anyone who buys the Lidl jobby next Monday -
as to how well that performs and whether or not the blade *does* tilt.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Jules wrote:
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:44:22 +0100, Roger Mills wrote:
You can cut compound bevels - which are at an angle to the axes of the wood
in two different planes. Firstly, you can rotate the cutting assembly
through +/- 45 degrees in plan view - which *all* mitre saws can do. *Then*
you can tilt the blade about a horizontal axis. [The text calls one of these
"miter" (sic) and the other "bevel" - and defines the max cutting capacity
for various combinations of these].

That's one downside with mine - I can only tilt the blade between 0
and +45 degrees, not -45 to +45 degrees (it'll still do +/-45 in 'plan'
view, of course). Every once in a while it's a bit of a minor
inconvenience (I've got enough bench to handle about 8' either side of the
saw, but of course it doesn't mean it's not bench that's often cluttered
with crap on one side :-)

Maybe they're always like that though - but if not it's a little niggle
I'd try to avoid next time I go to purchase one.

Is it just me who is thick, or does anyone else get the angle 90 degrees
out? I was doing some skirting work a couple of years ago and got it
wrong a couple of times before I realised what I was doing wrong.

Don't all jump on me :-)

Dave

Roger Mills laid this down on his screen :
I've been using it this afternoon to cut some lengths of 2x2 for the frame of
a small lean-to shed/tool store. It makes nice clean accurate cuts and - as
you say - the sliding mechanism is very smooth. The laser seems to work ok -
but I had to partly shut the garage door in order to see it when the sun
moved round in that direction. I found that with the workpiece to the right
of the blade, aligning the pencil mark with the laser produced the cut in
exactly the right place but, with the workpiece on the left, I had to offset
it a bit to allow for the thickness of the blade. I didn't realise it was
adjustable - I'd better read the book!

It doesn't seem to mention it in the book, but if you look at the laser
head holder, it has a slotted bracket with two cross head screws. Ease
the two screw out a little to move it side to side. To align the beam
along the whole length of the cut, you can rotate the laser head -
there is a single screw holding that. That on mine was spot on.

I've just noticed it seems to have an adjustable depth stop too. Nice
piece of kit.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Roger Mills wrote:

I've screwed my saw to a piece of scrap worktop, with a batten screwed to
the underside - which I can grip in a Workmate to make a nice firm job
without needing to install it anywhere permanently.

That is a good idea. I was doing some fence work about a month ago and I
could have done with something like that. I don't want those supports
that have rollers on the top, as I have nowhere to store them.

Thanks

Dave

It happens that Dave formulated :
Roger Mills wrote:

I've screwed my saw to a piece of scrap worktop, with a batten screwed to
the underside - which I can grip in a Workmate to make a nice firm job
without needing to install it anywhere permanently.

That is a good idea. I was doing some fence work about a month ago and I
could have done with something like that. I don't want those supports that
have rollers on the top, as I have nowhere to store them.

Twenty odd years ago I made one of those garden tables which the built
in benches, which you see in pub gardens. I found I used it more often
as an outdoor work bench, than for eating at.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 20:39:39 +0100, Dave wrote:
Is it just me who is thick, or does anyone else get the angle 90 degrees
out? I was doing some skirting work a couple of years ago and got it
wrong a couple of times before I realised what I was doing wrong.

Yeah, I screwed that up once, too, doing one of the kids' bedrooms. That
was before I had the mitre saw here (I moved to the US in 2007, and all
my original tool collection's still in the UK and probably uneconomical
to ever ship - grr), so I was cutting by hand using a little 45-degree jig
that I'd made. Luckily the bit I messed up was long enough to use
elsewhere in the room, and I'd bought a whole bundle of skirting anyway
(90% of which is still in my workshop - fitting it to other rooms is one
of those round tuit jobs)

I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting though
if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and the other done
with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first, presumably to create
some kind of sliding joint so that any expansion or contraction of the
skirting doesn't produce either a bowing effect or result in a big gap
showing up at the mitre. Be interesting to know if folk do go to that
much trouble though, or if they just use a regular mitre join! :-)

cheers

Jules

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Harry Bloomfield wrote:


It doesn't seem to mention it in the book, but if you look at the
laser head holder, it has a slotted bracket with two cross head
screws. Ease the two screw out a little to move it side to side. To
align the beam along the whole length of the cut, you can rotate the
laser head - there is a single screw holding that. That on mine was
spot on.
Ta! I'll have a look tomorrow. Like you say, it *isn't* in the book.

I've just noticed it seems to have an adjustable depth stop too. Nice
piece of kit.

Yes, that *is* in the book - but I'd discovered it before I read the book.
There are actually *two* depth stops - both of which are adjustable. The
first is the normal one - which ensures that the blade goes low enough to
cut through the wood without fouling the bottom of the slot. The factory
setting on mine seems fine. The second one enables you to cut channels in
the wood without cutting right through. There is a screw with a locknut.
Normally, the end of the screw passes through a hole in a plate - and does
nothing. But there's a little lever which moves a solid bit of the plate
into position, and limits the saw's plunge when the screw meets this plate.

Like you say, a nice piece of kit. FWIW, the customer reviews on the Argos
website are all pretty positive. When you buy cheap tools (and this *is*
cheap compared with similar professional tools) you're never quite sure what
to expect. But I can't fault this one - it's brilliant! OK, it might not
stand up to daily professional use - but for DIY use, it's all I could ask
of it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 20:39:39 +0100, Dave wrote:

Jules wrote:
On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 00:44:22 +0100, Roger Mills wrote:
You can cut compound bevels - which are at an angle to the axes of the
wood in two different planes. Firstly, you can rotate the cutting
assembly through +/- 45 degrees in plan view - which *all* mitre saws
can do. *Then* you can tilt the blade about a horizontal axis. [The
text calls one of these "miter" (sic) and the other "bevel" - and
defines the max cutting capacity for various combinations of these].

That's one downside with mine - I can only tilt the blade between 0 and
+45 degrees, not -45 to +45 degrees (it'll still do +/-45 in 'plan'
view, of course). Every once in a while it's a bit of a minor
inconvenience (I've got enough bench to handle about 8' either side of
the saw, but of course it doesn't mean it's not bench that's often
cluttered with crap on one side :-)

Maybe they're always like that though - but if not it's a little niggle
I'd try to avoid next time I go to purchase one.

Is it just me who is thick, or does anyone else get the angle 90 degrees
out? I was doing some skirting work a couple of years ago and got it
wrong a couple of times before I realised what I was doing wrong.

Everyone does that (although I doubt dennis will admit it)!

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

Roger Mills has brought this to us :
Yes, that *is* in the book - but I'd discovered it before I read the book.
There are actually *two* depth stops - both of which are adjustable. The
first is the normal one - which ensures that the blade goes low enough to cut
through the wood without fouling the bottom of the slot. The factory setting
on mine seems fine. The second one enables you to cut channels in the wood
without cutting right through. There is a screw with a locknut. Normally, the
end of the screw passes through a hole in a plate - and does nothing. But
there's a little lever which moves a solid bit of the plate into position,
and limits the saw's plunge when the screw meets this plate.

Yes and I have just tested that feature. It looks crude, but it
certainly works well. I have also corrected the laser, I just clamped a
9" wide bit of timber down, sawed it through halfway and tapped the
lasers bracket over gently with a blunt drift - no need to undo the
Phillips screws. The plastic bracket is fairly slippy through the
screws, so it moved quite easily. I got the line split perfectly
between the top surface and the cut edge all the way along the 9" width
of the cut.


Like you say, a nice piece of kit. FWIW, the customer reviews on the Argos
website are all pretty positive. When you buy cheap tools (and this *is*
cheap compared with similar professional tools) you're never quite sure what
to expect. But I can't fault this one - it's brilliant! OK, it might not
stand up to daily professional use - but for DIY use, it's all I could ask of
it.

Agreed and I don't think the Lidl one will be nearly as good as this.


--

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

In article ,
Dave wrote:
Is it just me who is thick, or does anyone else get the angle 90 degrees
out? I was doing some skirting work a couple of years ago and got it
wrong a couple of times before I realised what I was doing wrong.

Worst for me is cutting mitres in cornicing which has a top and a bottom.
My saw is towards the end of the bench so on long lengths I have to turn
them round.

--
*How do they get the deer to cross at that yellow road sign?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , Harry
Bloomfield writes
explained :
After a careful ride home, I checked it again and found that the
steel(?) screws/bolt holding one side of
the visor hinge to the main helmet body had sheared, leaving the bolt
stub inside the body and rendering the helmet pretty much
fit only for the bin.

Normally I'm pretty impressed with the quality of Lidl stuff but this
had me thinking what good the helmet might have been if
I'd had a spill.

I bought one too, the one sold with the spare visor, but I don't
remember paying that much for it. Mine is still going strong a very
comfortable, just a bit heavy compared to my other much more expensive
one.


A bit like insurance or anything else which is fine until you need it

Personally, I wouldn't take a chance on a cheap no-name helmet

(although, I used to ride around in Indonesia with a construction site
hard hat on)


--
geoff

Jules wrote:

I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting though
if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and the other done
with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first, presumably to create
some kind of sliding joint so that any expansion or contraction of the
skirting doesn't produce either a bowing effect or result in a big gap
showing up at the mitre. Be interesting to know if folk do go to that
much trouble though, or if they just use a regular mitre join! :-)

I've coped a number of corner joins - I think it gives a neater effect,
more easily than trying to mitre something, then finding that your
corner is not perfectly square...

S Viemeister wrote:
Jules wrote:

I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting
though if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and
the other done with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first,
presumably to create some kind of sliding joint so that any
expansion or contraction of the skirting doesn't produce either a
bowing effect or result in a big gap showing up at the mitre. Be
interesting to know if folk do go to that much trouble though, or if
they just use a regular mitre join! :-)
I've coped a number of corner joins - I think it gives a neater
effect, more easily than trying to mitre something, then finding that
your corner is not perfectly square...

I did until I bought a Magic Mitre http://www.magicmitre.co.uk/ does
exactly what it says on the tin. Bloody incredible bit of kit, 100% perfect
joins every time regardless of how ****ed the wall is.

Well worth the money, pays for itself on the first job.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
S Viemeister wrote:
Jules wrote:
I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting
though if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and
the other done with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first,
presumably to create some kind of sliding joint so that any
expansion or contraction of the skirting doesn't produce either a
bowing effect or result in a big gap showing up at the mitre. Be
interesting to know if folk do go to that much trouble though, or if
they just use a regular mitre join! :-)
I've coped a number of corner joins - I think it gives a neater
effect, more easily than trying to mitre something, then finding that
your corner is not perfectly square...

I did until I bought a Magic Mitre http://www.magicmitre.co.uk/ does
exactly what it says on the tin. Bloody incredible bit of kit, 100% perfect
joins every time regardless of how ****ed the wall is.

Well worth the money, pays for itself on the first job.


I don't dare buy another tool (yet) - we've just had to replace both the
car and the cooker.

In article . com,
Jules wrote:
I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting though
if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and the other
done with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first, presumably to
create some kind of sliding joint so that any expansion or contraction
of the skirting doesn't produce either a bowing effect or result in a
big gap showing up at the mitre. Be interesting to know if folk do go
to that much trouble though, or if they just use a regular mitre join!
:-)

That technique - called a scribed joint - is normally used for internal
corners. And yes it's used.

--
*I have a degree in liberal arts -- do you want fries with that

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"S Viemeister" wrote in message
...
Jules wrote:

I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting though
if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and the other done
with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first, presumably to
create
some kind of sliding joint so that any expansion or contraction of the
skirting doesn't produce either a bowing effect or result in a big gap
showing up at the mitre. Be interesting to know if folk do go to that
much trouble though, or if they just use a regular mitre join! :-)

I've coped a number of corner joins - I think it gives a neater effect,
more easily than trying to mitre something, then finding that your corner
is not perfectly square...

Cowboys mitre internal corners, everybody mitres external corners.
You can get jugs that help with mitres but they only cope with
non-orthogonal surfaces in one plane.
If two planes are out they are useless IME.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article . com,
Jules wrote:
I since read you're not supposed to make mitre joins for skirting
though if possible - one piece is supposed to be cut straight and
the other done with a coping saw to follow the contour of the first,
presumably to create some kind of sliding joint so that any
expansion or contraction of the skirting doesn't produce either a
bowing effect or result in a big gap showing up at the mitre. Be
interesting to know if folk do go to that much trouble though, or if
they just use a regular mitre join! :-)

That technique - called a scribed joint - is normally used for
internal corners. And yes it's used.

Could be a bit of a challenge on skirting board with an intricate cross
section. Fine for simple stuff with a rounded top - although I still
invariably mitre everything.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...


Everyone does that (although I doubt dennis will admit it)!

Why? I am not scared to admit stuff, when you have made a mistake that cost
£1M+ little things like that mean nothing.
As they say, if you haven't made a mistake you haven't done anything.


As it happens I cut the mitre wrong on six pieces of wood about 6 weeks ago
when I was knocking a hexagonal planter up out of some old shiplap I found.

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
That technique - called a scribed joint - is normally used for
internal corners. And yes it's used.

Could be a bit of a challenge on skirting board with an intricate cross
section. Fine for simple stuff with a rounded top - although I still
invariably mitre everything.

Needs a bit of skill. But IIRC there's an FAQ on how to do it.

Thing is in the average room the long runs of skirting will have internal
angles. And any shrinkage will open these up. External angles are usually
restricted to short runs - chimney breasts, etc where a mitre is fine.
Of course if you use MDF etc for skirting it probably doesn't matter.

--
*Certain frogs can be frozen solid, then thawed, and survive *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 25 Sep 2009 08:50:44 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

That technique - called a scribed joint - is normally used for internal
corners. And yes it's used.

And is useful in that the skirting between two internal corners can
be removed easily.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...

Could be a bit of a challenge on skirting board with an intricate cross
section. Fine for simple stuff with a rounded top - although I still
invariably mitre everything.

Not really, you do need a mitre saw/block and a coping/fret saw though.

dennis@home wrote:


"Bob Eager" wrote in message
...


Everyone does that (although I doubt dennis will admit it)!

Why? I am not scared to admit stuff, when you have made a mistake that
cost £1M+ little things like that mean nothing.
As they say, if you haven't made a mistake you haven't done anything.


As it happens I cut the mitre wrong on six pieces of wood about 6 weeks
ago when I was knocking a hexagonal planter up out of some old shiplap I
found.

Talking about ship lap. Is that the stuff that varies in thickness
across its width? If so, when it is used for its proper job, is the
thick side at the top or bottom? (I am using it to stop pebbles from
escaping under the garden fence, with the thick side at the bottom.)

Dave

Harry Bloomfield wrote:
It happens that Dave formulated :
Roger Mills wrote:

I've screwed my saw to a piece of scrap worktop, with a batten
screwed to the underside - which I can grip in a Workmate to make a
nice firm job without needing to install it anywhere permanently.

That is a good idea. I was doing some fence work about a month ago and
I could have done with something like that. I don't want those
supports that have rollers on the top, as I have nowhere to store them.

Twenty odd years ago I made one of those garden tables which the built
in benches, which you see in pub gardens. I found I used it more often
as an outdoor work bench, than for eating at.

Wife obtained one of those from a local authority and it has also been
used as a work bench more that the pick nick table it is supposed to be.
:-)

Dave

"Dave" wrote in message
...


Talking about ship lap. Is that the stuff that varies in thickness across
its width? If so, when it is used for its proper job, is the thick side at
the top or bottom? (I am using it to stop pebbles from escaping under the
garden fence, with the thick side at the bottom.)

Shiplap is a variety of tongue and groove, the groove is in the thick bit at
the bottom.

Dave

On Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:23:06 +0100, Harry Bloomfield wrote:
Twenty odd years ago I made one of those garden tables which the built
in benches, which you see in pub gardens. I found I used it more often
as an outdoor work bench, than for eating at.

That's an excellent idea, as the missus wants me to build a picnic table
sometime (which is all fun and everything as a project, but I like the
fact I could then use it for more than just a few hours a year as a food
table :-)

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Useful looking stuff from Lidl w/c 28/9/09

SCMS @ £69.99

LED worklight looks rather good at a tenner.

Taps & drills set £5.99

Steel rule could also be used as a saw/router guide £3.99

Local store had the saws piled high this morning.

Bought a set of the ratchet spanners. Look to be beautifully made.

--
*I see you've set aside this special time to humiliate yourself in public

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The message
from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Useful looking stuff from Lidl w/c 28/9/09

SCMS @ £69.99

LED worklight looks rather good at a tenner.

Taps & drills set £5.99

Steel rule could also be used as a saw/router guide £3.99

Local store had the saws piled high this morning.

Bought a set of the ratchet spanners. Look to be beautifully made.

Ditto.

Nice to have a CASED set of punches, too.

In article ,
Appin wrote:
Bought a set of the ratchet spanners. Look to be beautifully made.

Ditto.

Used them today and they're good. Trouble with some ratchets is they are
so stiff they won't ratchet on a slightly loose nut which is still too
tight for the fingers. These are fine.

--
*Never kick a cow pat on a hot day *

Dave Plowman London SW
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