I invited comment on how these are fixed and etc. a couple of weeks
ago.

Just to remind - at the moment we have the present guttering bracketed
directly onto the bare ends of the roof timbers.

We had a very nice man from a trade supplier call in and draw up a list
of what he thought was needed to complete the job, to match next doors
which had already been done. The bits were ordered to his list and
delivered the very next day £151 to do both front and back of the main
house roof.

An L shaped about 7mm thick solid plastic is used for the vertical,
this is simply nailed onto the face of the beam using plastic capped
stainless steel nails specially made for the job. Our timber ends are
perfectly level at faces, so one size of spacer is good for all.
Spacers made from two layers of 8mm (to make 16mm) exterior grade ply
tacked onto the faces.

Next the guttering brackets are fitted, with a fall down to the down
spout.

The horizontal fill-in strip along the bottom (which a lighter double
skinned material), sits on the bottom lip of the L shaped vertical as
support for its outer edge and the correct way to support the edge
nearest the wall is using either a timber batten or a U shaped plastic
channel fixed to the wall - however I notice that most/all of the
nearby houses which have had this done, seem to have had the wall edge
simply stuck with silicon. This strip has to be cut along its length to
fit the gap.

I would guess the wall edge has been simply supported with nails
temporarily, whilst the silicon is allowed to set, then the nails
removed. I'm not sure I would be happy doing this?

Ventilation is supposed to be provided in the horizontal surface, our
supplier suggested at least four vents be installed, to prevent rot of
the timber, but I noticed many other houses with none at all fitted.

None of this has been done yet, the task (weather permitting) is to
start next weekend - just working out the details in my head at the
moment.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

Harry Bloomfield explained :
The horizontal fill-in strip along the bottom (which a lighter double skinned
material), sits on the bottom lip of the L shaped vertical as support for its
outer edge and the correct way to support the edge nearest the wall is using
either a timber batten or a U shaped plastic channel fixed to the wall -
however I notice that most/all of the nearby houses which have had this done,
seem to have had the wall edge simply stuck with silicon. This strip has to
be cut along its length to fit the gap.

I would guess the wall edge has been simply supported with nails temporarily,
whilst the silicon is allowed to set, then the nails removed. I'm not sure I
would be happy doing this?

I have an idea which would solve this, with no need for a timber batten
or U channel along the wall...

The double walls are joined by a thin skin every 1" or so across their
width. If I were to drill, plug and fix some screws or nails along the
wall and at the centre line of where the horizontal panel should meet
the wall, one fixing every foot or so leaving the fixing stuck out a
way - and I also cut a hole in the thin skin to match up with the
fixings, the panel would hopefully be able to be dropped straight onto
these, then the front edge dropped onto the lip vertical.

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Sep 20, 8:32*pm, Harry Bloomfield
wrote:

An L shaped about 7mm thick solid plastic is used for the vertical,
this is simply nailed onto the face of the beam using plastic capped
stainless steel nails specially made for the job. Our timber ends

Those are capping boards, designed to be fitted over existing wooden
fascias.

Stand-alone fascias are thicker (2x at least).

See http://www.eurocell.co.uk/buildingpl...assoffits.html

Ventilation is supposed to be provided in the horizontal surface,

The term is "soffit" and, IMHO, it's a lot easier to buy soffit boards
with a continuous vent strip built in, than to faff about fitting
separate vents. I'm surprised your man didn't appraise you of this.

MBQ

Harry Bloomfield has brought this to us :
Harry Bloomfield explained :
The horizontal fill-in strip along the bottom (which a lighter double
skinned material), sits on the bottom lip of the L shaped vertical as
support for its outer edge and the correct way to support the edge nearest
the wall is using either a timber batten or a U shaped plastic channel
fixed to the wall - however I notice that most/all of the nearby houses
which have had this done, seem to have had the wall edge simply stuck with
silicon. This strip has to be cut along its length to fit the gap.

I would guess the wall edge has been simply supported with nails
temporarily, whilst the silicon is allowed to set, then the nails removed.
I'm not sure I would be happy doing this?

I have an idea which would solve this, with no need for a timber batten or U
channel along the wall...

The double walls are joined by a thin skin every 1" or so across their width.
If I were to drill, plug and fix some screws or nails along the wall and at
the centre line of where the horizontal panel should meet the wall, one
fixing every foot or so leaving the fixing stuck out a way - and I also cut a
hole in the thin skin to match up with the fixings, the panel would hopefully
be able to be dropped straight onto these, then the front edge dropped onto
the lip vertical.

There are times when I feel an absolute fool, and this is one of those
occasions.....

I was working on an assumption that the 5m long soffit material was
simply trimmed down along its width to fit the gap. I did actually
wonder why the embossed plank edge marks ran along the length of the
items which were delivered to me, whereas all the other house had there
plank edge marks going at right angles from the walls. I was also
wondering how I was going to maneuver a 5m long soffit into place on
top of a double extension ladder.

Well today I rang the supplier and asked about those plank edge lines
going the wrong way and it seems I had completely the wrong idea in
mind. You cut short bits off the end of the 5m, just enough to span the
gap between wall and onto the lip of the vertical L, the edge of which
then clips onto its mates either side - it all sounds much easier and
more manageable now.



--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk