With the next lot of grouting coming up, I have a few questions that I
have not really seen dealt with before - it's just assumed you have
the knowledge :-

When mixing powder grout, what consistency should it be ? - I think I
made it too running last time,
and it formed small bubbles etc.

How much grout would you expect to be left on the tile surface after
using the grout float ? I didn't leave the grout long enough before
trying to sponge it last time, because a film of grout on the surface
was starting to set rather too much. Sponging too early caused some
unevenness in the finished grout lines - not that hard flat look.

How hard should the grout be before you wipe it / sponge it ?

The grout shaping with a stick is not what the professionals I have
seen do. When just using the float, should you just push the float
hard against the grout lines to slightly recess them ?
Should you use the rounder corner of the grout float ?

Thanks,
Simon.

On 1 Sep, 10:59, sm_jamieson wrote:
With the next lot of grouting coming up, I have a few questions that I
have not really seen dealt with before - it's just assumed you have
the knowledge :-

When mixing powder grout, what consistency should it be ? - I think I
made it too running last time,
and it formed small bubbles etc.

Use a good quality grout (there's no point in skimping, so little of
it is needed it is only a few quid). The packet will tell you the
recommended mix - squidgy, but not sloppy. I can't think of an
analogy.

How much grout would you expect to be left on the tile surface after
using the grout float ?

Depends how neat you are. Some film is always left, and a few bits
here and there.

I didn't leave the grout long enough before
trying to sponge it last time, because a film of grout on the surface
was starting to set rather too much. Sponging too early caused some
unevenness in the finished grout lines - not that hard flat look.

How hard should the grout be before you wipe it / sponge it ?

Harder than you might think - it depends on the grout how fast it
hardens, but it should be left for 30 mins or so, don't worry if it
looks set, you want it to be so it doesn't wash out of the joints,
and it is still very green really, compared to 24hrs later. I find
one of those nylon scouring pads they sell for epoxy grout makes the
job of cleaning the film off without much effort even when it looks
like its dried.

The grout shaping with a stick is not what the professionals I have
seen do. When just using the float, should you just push the float
hard against the grout lines to slightly recess them ?

I just go hard diagonally over/along the grout lines as the last pass,
leaving them flush or even slightly raised (which they tend to do by
themselves). They flush off and recess slightly when you scrub the
surface film off.

Should you use the rounder corner of the grout float ?

Dunno, I don't.

On Sep 1, 10:59*am, sm_jamieson wrote:
With the next lot of grouting coming up, I have a few questions that I
have not really seen dealt with before - it's just assumed you have
the knowledge :-

When mixing powder grout, what consistency should it be ? - I think I
made it too running last time,
and it formed small bubbles etc.

like cement mortar


NT

Bolted wrote:
On 1 Sep, 10:59, sm_jamieson wrote:
With the next lot of grouting coming up, I have a few questions that I
have not really seen dealt with before - it's just assumed you have
the knowledge :-

When mixing powder grout, what consistency should it be ? - I think I
made it too running last time,
and it formed small bubbles etc.

Use a good quality grout (there's no point in skimping, so little of
it is needed it is only a few quid). The packet will tell you the
recommended mix - squidgy, but not sloppy. I can't think of an
analogy.

How much grout would you expect to be left on the tile surface after
using the grout float ?

Depends how neat you are. Some film is always left, and a few bits
here and there.

I didn't leave the grout long enough before
trying to sponge it last time, because a film of grout on the surface
was starting to set rather too much. Sponging too early caused some
unevenness in the finished grout lines - not that hard flat look.

How hard should the grout be before you wipe it / sponge it ?

Harder than you might think - it depends on the grout how fast it
hardens, but it should be left for 30 mins or so, don't worry if it
looks set, you want it to be so it doesn't wash out of the joints,
and it is still very green really, compared to 24hrs later. I find
one of those nylon scouring pads they sell for epoxy grout makes the
job of cleaning the film off without much effort even when it looks
like its dried.

The grout shaping with a stick is not what the professionals I have
seen do. When just using the float, should you just push the float
hard against the grout lines to slightly recess them ?

I just go hard diagonally over/along the grout lines as the last pass,
leaving them flush or even slightly raised (which they tend to do by
themselves). They flush off and recess slightly when you scrub the
surface film off.

Should you use the rounder corner of the grout float ?

Dunno, I don't.


I find grouting the most difficult part of tiling. Unless the tiles are
perfectly flat, the grout line isn't of uniform width (which annoys me
in a Richard Briers, Ever Decreasing Circles kind of a way).
With standard grout the dried stuff powders off the face of the tiles
quite easily with a coarse cloth, so I tend to leave the grout lines wet
for a smoother finish, and not bother too much about the mess.

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 02:57:06 -0700 (PDT), Bolted wrote:

I find
one of those nylon scouring pads they sell for epoxy grout makes the
job of cleaning the film off without much effort even when it looks
like its dried.

Yes, works well, but I once had only a green one... The householder got a
white one later and that corrected the green tinge with very little work.
--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.