I have some built in wardrobes ( put in a long time ago by a previous home
owner) . The doors are slatted panel type things - I think they are called
Louvre doors?

Anyway, I am fed up with them and want to change them but my husband says
its too expensive to try and do that and besides the doors aren't standard
sized . Two are 18" wide and two are 21" wide. The main doors are 6ft long
and the little cupboard doors are 18" deep.

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling over
them to cover up the slatted bits?
They are very difficult to clean and a nightmare to paint and I would like
something easier to deal with. Preferably white but I will paint it if I
have to.

Can you also explain to me how I might do it easily? I am not much good
beyond a hammer and a few nails or tacks.

Also something that doesn't take too long as I will have to do the whole
job in less than 8 hours ( whilst he is out).

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
endymion wrote:

I have some built in wardrobes ( put in a long time ago by a previous
home owner) . The doors are slatted panel type things - I think they
are called Louvre doors?

Anyway, I am fed up with them and want to change them but my husband
says its too expensive to try and do that and besides the doors
aren't standard sized . Two are 18" wide and two are 21" wide. The
main doors are 6ft long and the little cupboard doors are 18" deep.

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?
They are very difficult to clean and a nightmare to paint and I would
like something easier to deal with. Preferably white but I will
paint it if I have to.

Can you also explain to me how I might do it easily? I am not much
good beyond a hammer and a few nails or tacks.

Also something that doesn't take too long as I will have to do the
whole job in less than 8 hours ( whilst he is out).

You could make some replacement doors out of white contiboard. You can buy
that in various widths (including 18" and 21") and in 6' or 8' lengths.

You would have to cut them off to length (and ideally lip the tops and
bottoms with iron-on edging) and screw hinges and handles/knobs on, etc.

Whether or not you can do it in 8 hours depends on your skill level and the
tools available to you. Most competent D-I-Y-ers probably could.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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On 28 Aug, 16:06, Owain wrote:

If the slats don't protrude from the front of the doors then you could
use hardboard or thin MDF to panel over the doors,

Shades of Barry Bucknell.

On Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:52:27 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?

Small panels of hardboard over the slats?

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:52:27 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?

Small panels of hardboard over the slats?


Some Louvered doors are reversible and the other side is flatter.

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:52:27 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?

Small panels of hardboard over the slats?

Just nail them on or could I maybe use a glue like No Nails? The slats
arent toe full width of the door just a central a panel with a 2" surround
of wood frame.

wrote:
On Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:52:27 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?

Small panels of hardboard over the slats?


Framing them with a small panel bead makes a neater job if the OP is up
to cutting mitres.

endymion wrote:

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 28 Aug 2009 17:52:27 +0100, "Roger Mills"
wrote:

Is it possible to find a cheap alternative or to put some panelling
over them to cover up the slatted bits?

Small panels of hardboard over the slats?

Just nail them on or could I maybe use a glue like No Nails? The slats
arent toe full width of the door just a central a panel with a 2"
surround of wood frame.

You could do an upholstered panel (hardboard or plywood, some poly
batting, and a layer of fabric), and match it to curtains or headboard.

On Aug 29, 5:52 am, Owain wrote:
On 28 Aug, 18:23, gunsmith wrote:

If the slats don't protrude from the front of the doors then you could
use hardboard or thin MDF to panel over the doors,
Shades of Barry Bucknell.

Yes, although I didn't suggest covering the hardboard with sticky-back
plastic and I don't think it's very likely that people in 2040 will
rip off the hardboard and exclaim "Ooh! Lovely original louvre doors!"

I couldn't afford real louvre doors when they were in fashion. I had
to make do with tacky hardboard!
It should take less than 8 hours to paint the louvre doors.
Covering them up is as bad as painting brickwork.

Remove doors.
Place horizontally.
Use a good quality satin finish in white, barley white, whatever.
Use a good brush which is also large.

Yes it takes time to do, but with a good quality paint it will last
10yrs+. Just ensure the doors do not butt-up re abrasion wear, leave a
gap.

If you want exceptional "enamel-look" use a sikkens gloss & onol.

If they are getting dusty, close-in the *rear* with a panel of foamex,
hardboard, MDF, anything. You can buy louvre door dusters which
basically drag across each one and pull the dust out.

With the right finish, colour, they can work very well - better than
many nasty foil laminates with edge showing.