Tim S wrote:
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:


IIRC I can do a half inch offcut on mine (unless it's the last tile in
the box of course, when it's bound to go wrong :-)).
Which make was yours Stuart?

Cheers

Tim
A fairly basic Rubi, similar to the Screwfix Pro snapper

Ow - I've just seen the price - are they really £200+ ? Or am I looking at
the wrong thing:

http://www.tilefixdirect.com/index.p...ow&ref=RU16940

Cheers

Tim

This is the d-i-y range. Mine's about 15 years old, but it looks like
the Rubi Star40.

http://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalo...e_cutters.html

There's a video in the features list showing a guy exerting quite a lot
of pressure to snap but, for your average floor tile, you just bring the
handle down with more of a hammer action. It's all about the score line
being continuous and uniform (and in the singular). Too much pressure
and the cutting wheel can't turn.
It's a good idea to practice with some cheap tiles or offcuts to get a
feel for the thing. After half an hour you can literally do it with your
eyes closed

Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

Tim S wrote:
Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

A fairly basic Rubi, similar to the Screwfix Pro snapper

Ow - I've just seen the price - are they really £200+ ? Or am I looking
at the wrong thing:

http://www.tilefixdirect.com/index.p...ow&ref=RU16940



This is the d-i-y range. Mine's about 15 years old, but it looks like
the Rubi Star40.

http://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalo...e_cutters.html

There's a video in the features list showing a guy exerting quite a lot
of pressure to snap but, for your average floor tile, you just bring the
handle down with more of a hammer action. It's all about the score line
being continuous and uniform (and in the singular). Too much pressure
and the cutting wheel can't turn.
It's a good idea to practice with some cheap tiles or offcuts to get a
feel for the thing. After half an hour you can literally do it with your
eyes closed


Cool - that's more like it. One of those it is and money left over for a
cheaper wet saw for weird cuts.

90% of my cuts will be straight so I reckon the score and snap is going to
be faster and less messy.

Thanks

Tim

On Aug 26, 12:08*am, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:
In article
,
* *NT wrote:

Cutting a tile at an angle? Although some of the table top types come
with an angle guide to help with this, they're not as flexible as a
sliding saw.
Fixed blade machines can do angled cuts too, just not as easy to use
that way.

Generally you have to do them freehand. So not easy to do lots *exactly*
the same - unlike when using a fence.

If you want accurate repeated cuts, take a piece of thin board, place
tile in position, mark and put in some screws. Slide the whole
assembly through.

The erbauer comes with a palstic guide for 45 degree cuts, handy for
those iffy looking diagonal tile jobs.


NT

In article
,
NT wrote:
Generally you have to do them freehand. So not easy to do lots
*exactly* the same - unlike when using a fence.

If you want accurate repeated cuts, take a piece of thin board, place
tile in position, mark and put in some screws. Slide the whole
assembly through.

The erbauer comes with a palstic guide for 45 degree cuts, handy for
those iffy looking diagonal tile jobs.

My Plasplugs has a similar idea - except that it is pivoted to allow most
angles. Not too clever to use, though - you really need three hands. I can
imagine a sliding saw type being so much easier.

--
*If I worked as much as others, I would do as little as they *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

90% of my cuts will be straight

There's confidence for you! Doesn't often work out that way though,
unless your walls are very straight.
Plenty of advice around about setting out the tiles to minimise
difficult cuts and small strips on the edges etc. Worth spending time on
that aspect of the job.

Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

90% of my cuts will be straight

There's confidence for you! Doesn't often work out that way though,
unless your walls are very straight.
Plenty of advice around about setting out the tiles to minimise
difficult cuts and small strips on the edges etc. Worth spending time on
that aspect of the job.

Yes - I agree. I'm practised in that respect due to having laid strip click
flooring (don't want 1cm x 2.1m of that stuff!).

In fact, I managed to set up all the walls in accurate format on Inkscape -
and import pictures of our chosen wall tiles, then set "snap mode"
correctly. Made doing accurate tile layouts easy and I can see where to
allow so that I can get decent lumps of tiles as you say.

Handed the whole lot over to SWMBO who agreed it was an excellent way of
moving the coloured tiles around to achieve her preferred pattern

Then I print it off and pin it to the wall as I tile - that's the theory
anyway!

The wall edges should be more or less straight as the room's been
replastered with edging strip.

Cheers

Tim

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
The wall edges should be more or less straight as the room's been
replastered with edging strip.

Good. Tiling p***ed walls emphasises the faults.

--
*Ah, I see the f**k-up fairy has visited us again

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
The wall edges should be more or less straight as the room's been
replastered with edging strip.

Good. Tiling p***ed walls emphasises the faults.


Or needs an awful lot of adhesive, which then takes forever to set. Not
an option in a bathroom where you might need to fix things to the tiles
asap. Doing that too soon is a sure way to crack the tile (so they say :-))

In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
The wall edges should be more or less straight as the room's been
replastered with edging strip.

Good. Tiling p***ed walls emphasises the faults.


Or needs an awful lot of adhesive, which then takes forever to set. Not
an option in a bathroom where you might need to fix things to the tiles
asap. Doing that too soon is a sure way to crack the tile (so they say
:-))

The answer is to straighten them with plaster before starting - you don't
need a perfect finish and plaster goes off pretty quickly.

But this is DIY - don't rush the job. If you do chances are you'll not be
happy with it. And decent tiling is for ever. ;-)

--
*(over a sketch of the titanic) "The boat sank - get over it

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.