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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Hi,
In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...al-Tile-Cutter (Sliding saw) or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...0w-Tile-Cutter Last time I did any tiling, I used a hand scriber and a pencil (or somesuch) to snap over, but that was the 80's and for one small space. Cheers Tim |
#2
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In message , Tim S
writes Hi, In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...Titan-SF1180-6 00W-Radial-Tile-Cutter (Sliding saw) or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...Titan-600w-Til e-Cutter Last time I did any tiling, I used a hand scriber and a pencil (or somesuch) to snap over, but that was the 80's and for one small space. Hmm.. cheap enough! I have some 300x300mm 10mm floor tiles to do so might try one. The Erbauer version has a more powerful motor and the blade is offset perhaps allowing larger tiles to be cut. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#3
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On Aug 24, 10:54*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Tim S writes Hi, In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...Titan-SF1180-6 00W-Radial-Tile-Cutter (Sliding saw) or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...Titan-600w-Til e-Cutter Last time I did any tiling, I used a hand scriber and a pencil (or somesuch) to snap over, but that was the 80's and for one small space. Hmm.. cheap enough! I have some 300x300mm 10mm floor tiles to do so might try one. The Erbauer version has a more powerful motor and the blade is offset perhaps allowing larger tiles to be cut. regards The tabletop type tile saw is more than enough, I dont see a need for the sliding type. And yes, they make tiling a joy, you get near zero wastage, perfect edges, and they're very quick too. And of course they do narrow strips and complex edges, which arent so easy with score and snap. I'd sooner buy erbauer than titan myself, screwfix have them for not too much NT |
#4
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NT coughed up some electrons that declared:
The tabletop type tile saw is more than enough, I dont see a need for the sliding type. And yes, they make tiling a joy, you get near zero wastage, perfect edges, and they're very quick too. And of course they do narrow strips and complex edges, which arent so easy with score and snap. Good opinion - ta. I'd sooner buy erbauer than titan myself, screwfix have them for not too much The bloke in T Wells Screwfix was telling me that Erbauer is a test brand for one of the big boys to trial new stuff without sullying their own name if it turns out to be a lemon. I'll have to poke him and find out who the "big boy" is supposed to be. Implication is that Erbauer products *might* be very good despite the no-name name. I've found Titan not bad for odd things - my 9" angle grinder is one such. But it's not really a precision instrument ![]() |
#5
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On Aug 24, 10:18*pm, Tim S wrote:
NT coughed up some electrons that declared: The tabletop type tile saw is more than enough, I dont see a need for the sliding type. And yes, they make tiling a joy, you get near zero wastage, perfect edges, and they're very quick too. And of course they do narrow strips and complex edges, which arent so easy with score and snap. Good opinion - ta. forgot to add, the cut edges aren't sharp I'd sooner buy erbauer than titan myself, screwfix have them for not too much The bloke in T Wells Screwfix was telling me that Erbauer is a test brand for one of the big boys to trial new stuff without sullying their own name if it turns out to be a lemon. I'll have to poke him and find out who the "big boy" is supposed to be. Implication is that Erbauer products *might* be very good despite the no-name name. I think I'd be sceptical if told that I've found Titan not bad for odd things - my 9" angle grinder is one such.. But it's not really a precision instrument ![]() I always stayed away from titan, until I gave in and bought a cordless whatsit. It performs fine, but the charger runs so hot it produces mild burning smells and is too hot to touch. Live and learn. NT |
#6
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In message
, NT writes I've found Titan not bad for odd things - my 9" angle grinder is one such. But it's not really a precision instrument ![]() I always stayed away from titan, until I gave in and bought a cordless whatsit. It performs fine, but the charger runs so hot it produces mild burning smells and is too hot to touch. Live and learn. I bought a Titan cordless drill from S'fix. Hammer action NBG but everything else OK. Battery life not overlong and cheaper to buy another identical drill for spares. Chargers don't feel hot but perhaps that explains the short battery life? regards -- Tim Lamb |
#7
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In article
, NT wrote: The tabletop type tile saw is more than enough, I dont see a need for the sliding type. Cutting a tile at an angle? Although some of the table top types come with an angle guide to help with this, they're not as flexible as a sliding saw. -- *The longest recorded flightof a chicken is thirteen seconds * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#8
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On Aug 24, 11:54*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , * *NT wrote: The tabletop type tile saw is more than enough, I dont see a need for the sliding type. Cutting a tile at an angle? Although some of the table top types come with an angle guide to help with this, they're not as flexible as a sliding saw. Fixed blade machines can do angled cuts too, just not as easy to use that way. NT |
#9
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In article
, NT wrote: Cutting a tile at an angle? Although some of the table top types come with an angle guide to help with this, they're not as flexible as a sliding saw. Fixed blade machines can do angled cuts too, just not as easy to use that way. Generally you have to do them freehand. So not easy to do lots *exactly* the same - unlike when using a fence. -- *According to my calculations, the problem doesn't exist. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#10
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On Aug 24, 9:57*am, Tim S wrote:
Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...ws/Titan-SF118... Aldi were selling that model for £70 around August/September 2007. The remaining stock was reduced to £50 a few weeks later. Assuming it comes round again this year, it should be any week now. |
#11
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mike coughed up some electrons that declared:
On Aug 24, 9:57*am, Tim S wrote: Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...ws/Titan-SF118... Aldi were selling that model for £70 around August/September 2007. The remaining stock was reduced to £50 a few weeks later. Assuming it comes round again this year, it should be any week now. Hey that could be just in time. I'll look out for that - cheers ![]() Tim |
#12
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![]() or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap For ceramic tiles, yes, but a decent one if possible. I have a Rubi but it looks like this works on a similar principle. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/64932/...e-Cutter-445mm where the score handle also does the snapping, so that you only position the tile once. Doesn't sound that important but, after 40SM, you'll appreciate the benefits in terms of time and accuracy. It also easy to mark and cut tapers, which IME usually form the bulk of cuts. The edges are perfect (and therefore sharp) but, as these invariably go into a corner or behind skirting or whatever, it doesn't really matter. I usually do the tricky cuts manually with a diamond disc on a mini grinder (IIRC there were just 2 on the last room I did, so it wasn't worth setting a saw up outside for that). |
#13
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Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:
or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap For ceramic tiles, yes, but a decent one if possible. I have a Rubi but it looks like this works on a similar principle. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/64932/...e-Cutter-445mm where the score handle also does the snapping, so that you only position the tile once. Doesn't sound that important but, after 40SM, you'll appreciate the benefits in terms of time and accuracy. It also easy to mark and cut tapers, which IME usually form the bulk of cuts. The edges are perfect (and therefore sharp) but, as these invariably go into a corner or behind skirting or whatever, it doesn't really matter. I usually do the tricky cuts manually with a diamond disc on a mini grinder (IIRC there were just 2 on the last room I did, so it wasn't worth setting a saw up outside for that). That looks a nice cutter. Yes - most of our tiles will be ceramic, chosen as far as possible from the "clearance" section of various internet tile shops. Got a few slates around the fire, but only a few. I'm planning on using edging trim for external corners unless anyone can persuade me not to. Got some ali stuff, not the plastic. Thanks Tim |
#14
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In article ,
Tim S wrote: Hi, In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...al-Tile-Cutter (Sliding saw) It certainly looks a nice bit of kit and would allow you to do virtually any angled cut that can be a pain on an ordinary one. But how well it works in practice, I dunno. The storage space might be a problem too for some. or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...0w-Tile-Cutter Last time I did any tiling, I used a hand scriber and a pencil (or somesuch) to snap over, but that was the 80's and for one small space. You'll get many views. Score and snap is much quicker - but doesn't give as nice an edge as a wet cutter. More difficult to do repeating cuts where you want tiles all the same size too. If you don't mind taking time - and I don't - wet is best. But I can see a pro preferring S&S where time is money. -- *Gun Control: Use both hands. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#15
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On 24 Aug, 11:22, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
You'll get many views. Score and snap is much quicker - but doesn't give as nice an edge as a wet cutter. More difficult to do repeating cuts where you want tiles all the same size too. *If you don't mind taking time - and I don't - wet is best. But I can see a pro preferring S&S where time is money. Repeatability is not an issue with a good score and snap. FWIW, with glazed ceramic, I'd use a wet saw. With hard porcelain, I use a manual cutter where I can, just because it takes so long on the wet saw if you have more than a few cuts to do, and the noise is hellish. |
#16
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In article
, Bolted wrote: You'll get many views. Score and snap is much quicker - but doesn't give as nice an edge as a wet cutter. More difficult to do repeating cuts where you want tiles all the same size too. If you don't mind taking time - and I don't - wet is best. But I can see a pro preferring S&S where time is money. Repeatability is not an issue with a good score and snap. Are you saying you get types with a fence? Otherwise it comes down to skill - unlike a wet one. FWIW, with glazed ceramic, I'd use a wet saw. That covers most tiles. ;-) With hard porcelain, I use a manual cutter where I can, just because it takes so long on the wet saw if you have more than a few cuts to do, and the noise is hellish. Didn't find that a problem doing my large bathroom. And with the high cost of the tiles I preferred the reliability of the wet cutter. No spoiled tiles with that. Of course it could be I've never tried a really good score and snap device. But I'm not sure I'd want to pay a fortune for one given a wet cutter will do everything it can and more - only more slowly. -- *Don't use no double negatives * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#17
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![]() Are you saying you get types with a fence? Otherwise it comes down to skill - unlike a wet one. It's an end stop rather than a fence. What I'm curious about is how you do tapered cuts on a saw, the sort of thing where one end of the tile needs to be, say, 75mm and the other 73mm. On the typical wall, the next tile is then likely to be 73mm/71mm, and so on. On a snap cutter I can align the pencil marks top and bottom, scribe, snap (20 seconds?). I don't see how you can do that accurately on a saw given that you can't use the parallel fence. In case anyone (Tim?) thinks that snappers are for pros, it's worth mentioning that a decent one requires zero skill and minimal effort. On the cheaper types where the tile has to be re-positioned between jaws for the snap, it's difficult to get the pressure precisely on the score line and, because you're pinching the tile only at the edge, the chances of a clean cut are reduced. I once did a floor with one of those and I think I probably wasted 20% of the tiles. Than I saw the light. |
#18
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On 25/08/2009 12:17 Stuart Noble wrote:
What I'm curious about is how you do tapered cuts on a saw, the sort of thing where one end of the tile needs to be, say, 75mm and the other 73mm. On the typical wall, the next tile is then likely to be 73mm/71mm, and so on. On a snap cutter I can align the pencil marks top and bottom, scribe, snap (20 seconds?). I don't see how you can do that accurately on a saw given that you can't use the parallel fence. You can set the fence to the non-parallel dimensions and cut the tile but having tried that and finding it a fiddle (and very slow), I just took the fence off, marked the tile with a pencil line and fed it onto the saw freehand. The fence has never returned... -- F |
#19
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In article ,
Stuart Noble wrote: Are you saying you get types with a fence? Otherwise it comes down to skill - unlike a wet one. It's an end stop rather than a fence. What I'm curious about is how you do tapered cuts on a saw, the sort of thing where one end of the tile needs to be, say, 75mm and the other 73mm. On the typical wall, the next tile is then likely to be 73mm/71mm, and so on. On a snap cutter I can align the pencil marks top and bottom, scribe, snap (20 seconds?). I don't see how you can do that accurately on a saw given that you can't use the parallel fence. Hence the sliding saw variety. Do try and keep up. ;-) In case anyone (Tim?) thinks that snappers are for pros, it's worth mentioning that a decent one requires zero skill and minimal effort. On the cheaper types where the tile has to be re-positioned between jaws for the snap, it's difficult to get the pressure precisely on the score line and, because you're pinching the tile only at the edge, the chances of a clean cut are reduced. I once did a floor with one of those and I think I probably wasted 20% of the tiles. Than I saw the light. The one I have doesn't need the tile re-positioned - you just return the handle to the rest position after scoring and press down. But anywhere near the edge of the tile and you don't get a clean break. Needs to be perhaps 1.5-2" in from the edge on a large tile. But then as I've said there are likely better ones on the market - mine came from Wicks and some time ago. -- *Many people quit looking for work when they find a job * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#20
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On 24 Aug, 09:57, Tim S wrote:
Hi, In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...ws/Titan-SF118... (Sliding saw) or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...ws/Titan-600w-... Never used the posh (if you can call Titan posh) one, but have used a random B&Q special version of the latter. We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. |
#21
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On Aug 24, 9:24*pm, Airsource Ltd wrote:
On 24 Aug, 09:57, Tim S wrote: Hi, In about a week I'll be tiling the bathroom. Over the whole house I'll be looking at about 40m2 of floor tiling (eventually!) and wall tiling for kitchen, bathroom and shower. Is it worth going to one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/89584/...ws/Titan-SF118... (Sliding saw) or is it better to do as many tiles with a score n snap jig and use one of these for the awkward cuts: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...ws/Titan-600w-... Never used the posh (if you can call Titan posh) one, but have used a random B&Q special version of the latter. We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. The erbauer is noisy when cutting but hardly any water splash NT |
#22
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In article
, NT wrote: We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. The erbauer is noisy when cutting but hardly any water splash Think they all splash if you don't set the guard correctly. -- *i souport publik edekashun. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#23
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
NT wrote: We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. The erbauer is noisy when cutting but hardly any water splash Think they all splash if you don't set the guard correctly. In that case, it's impossible to set the guard correctly on the Topps one - whatever you do it sprays everywhere. But still makes good cuts quite quickly and easily, so I'm happy with it. Pete |
#24
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On Aug 24, 11:51*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote: In article , * *NT wrote: We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. The erbauer is noisy when cutting but hardly any water splash Think they all splash if you don't set the guard correctly. Even with the guard fully up theres barely any. I dont know why. I'm happy with the Erbauer, with one exception. The measurement scales used to set the rear end of the guard to the same position as the front peel off on day 1, making fence adjustment unnecessarily slow. NT |
#25
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Airsource Ltd wrote:
On 24 Aug, 09:57, Tim S wrote: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...ws/Titan-600w-... Never used the posh (if you can call Titan posh) one, but have used a random B&Q special version of the latter. We did about 20m2 of slate flooring, plus walltiles for a bathroom, plus my friend's bathroom floor and walls so far. Makes a racket, makes a mess with water spraying everywhere, still going strong, think we're on a new blade now, but not sure. I've got the Topps Tiles own-brand version - seems more or less the same. As you say, wet and noisy but does the job. I repaired a missing tile in the kitchen floor by cutting down one that matched in colour but not in size, and you can't tell which are the cut edges and which the original. I bought a spare blade in case the current one gives up during the bathroom job. Pete |
#26
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On 24/08/2009 09:57 Tim S wrote:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...0w-Tile-Cutter I used the Focus version of that for around 60 boxes of tiles and it worked well. Certainly got my money's worth out of it! Cutting tiles, in the garage, with the door open, in the middle of February, with the gentle spray of water hitting me in the chest... ....doesn't get any better. -- F |
#27
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F wrote:
On 24/08/2009 09:57 Tim S wrote: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/83636/...0w-Tile-Cutter I used the Focus version of that for around 60 boxes of tiles and it worked well. Certainly got my money's worth out of it! Cutting tiles, in the garage, with the door open, in the middle of February, with the gentle spray of water hitting me in the chest... ...doesn't get any better. I am on my second diamond disc on mine. The last straw after the 1" marble was the 1.5" sandstone paving slabs.. Its my angle grinder.. |
#28
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In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote: I am on my second diamond disc on mine. The last straw after the 1" marble was the 1.5" sandstone paving slabs.. I cut some red concrete paving slabs on my Plasplug - wanted a perfect edge. And it came up like those polished mixed stone floors. -- *If you don't pay your exorcist you get repossessed.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#29
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: I am on my second diamond disc on mine. The last straw after the 1" marble was the 1.5" sandstone paving slabs.. I cut some red concrete paving slabs on my Plasplug - wanted a perfect edge. And it came up like those polished mixed stone floors. I've used one to cut fossils found on the beach and also to cut large terracotta pammets when replacing broken ones in the hall floor. The only comment made by the LBO was that the work looked "too good" compared to the originals. |
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