[Arfa Daily]

What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional ball and
arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap fitting ? Need to fly
into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to pick a fitting up for
emergency leak repair at aging mother's later today (got called out at 11:30
pm last night ... :-\ )

Arfa

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional ball
and arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap fitting ?
Need to fly into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to pick a fitting
up for emergency leak repair at aging mother's later today (got called
out at 11:30 pm last night ... :-\ )

Yes - same as a tap. I had problems getting a good seal with mine - the
pipework is copper. So used some Fernox LSX.

--
*Not all men are annoying. Some are dead.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Arfa Daily]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional ball
and arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap fitting ?
Need to fly into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to pick a fitting
up for emergency leak repair at aging mother's later today (got called
out at 11:30 pm last night ... :-\ )

Yes - same as a tap. I had problems getting a good seal with mine - the
pipework is copper. So used some Fernox LSX.

--
*Not all men are annoying. Some are dead.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe, using a
right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many years. It has just
suddenly started dripping from the connector. I pulled a further pinch up on
it, but no help. As the ball valve itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be
some kind of corrosion in the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits,
I have just come across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think)
on one end and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair
with a replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new pump. If
this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess it will be a
quick way of doing the repair, although I might take advantage of having the
water off, to fit a service valve in the line.

Arfa

[The Wanderer[_2_]]

On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 11:46:17 +0100, Arfa Daily wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional ball
and arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap fitting ?
Need to fly into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to pick a fitting
up for emergency leak repair at aging mother's later today (got called
out at 11:30 pm last night ... :-\ )

Yes - same as a tap. I had problems getting a good seal with mine - the
pipework is copper. So used some Fernox LSX.

--
*Not all men are annoying. Some are dead.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe, using a
right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many years. It has just
suddenly started dripping from the connector. I pulled a further pinch up on
it, but no help. As the ball valve itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be
some kind of corrosion in the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits,
I have just come across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think)
on one end and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair
with a replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new pump. If
this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess it will be a
quick way of doing the repair, although I might take advantage of having the
water off, to fit a service valve in the line.

I'm guessing you have a 'standard' angled tap connector on the end of the
pipework. Has a reduced diameter 'shouldered' end which just fits inside
the end of the valve pipework, but which should have a fibre washer over
the end of the stub of the tap connector, IYSWIM.

Could just be that fibre washer.


--
The Wanderer

Passion is inversely proportional to the amount of real information
available.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
The Wanderer wrote:
I'm guessing you have a 'standard' angled tap connector on the end of the
pipework. Has a reduced diameter 'shouldered' end which just fits inside
the end of the valve pipework, but which should have a fibre washer over
the end of the stub of the tap connector, IYSWIM.

Could just be that fibre washer.

Think the problem with me was the tap connector wasn't exactly square to
the valve pipe. And being plastic you can't exert much clamping force to
the washer. A rubber O ring might have sorted it. When I redecorated, I
took the opportunity to add a service valve and flexible pipe Which has
slowed down the filling of the cistern by quite a bit - despite being a
full flow type.

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Frank Erskine]

On Mon, 15 Jun 2009 13:04:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
had this to say:

In article ,
The Wanderer wrote:
I'm guessing you have a 'standard' angled tap connector on the end of the
pipework. Has a reduced diameter 'shouldered' end which just fits inside
the end of the valve pipework, but which should have a fibre washer over
the end of the stub of the tap connector, IYSWIM.

Could just be that fibre washer.

Think the problem with me was the tap connector wasn't exactly square to
the valve pipe. And being plastic you can't exert much clamping force to
the washer. A rubber O ring might have sorted it. When I redecorated, I
took the opportunity to add a service valve and flexible pipe Which has
slowed down the filling of the cistern by quite a bit - despite being a
full flow type.

You can, of course get a right-angle connector with a built-in service
valve. It might be worth fitting this if you have to replace the
connector anyway and there isn't a SV to start with.

--
Frank Erskine

[The Medway Handyman]

Arfa Daily wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional
ball and arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap
fitting ? Need to fly into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to
pick a fitting up for emergency leak repair at aging mother's later
today (got called out at 11:30 pm last night ... :-\ )

Yes - same as a tap. I had problems getting a good seal with mine -
the pipework is copper. So used some Fernox LSX.

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe,
using a right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many
years. It has just suddenly started dripping from the connector. I
pulled a further pinch up on it, but no help. As the ball valve
itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be some kind of corrosion in
the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits, I have just come
across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think) on one end
and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair with a
replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new
pump. If this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess
it will be a quick way of doing the repair, although I might take
advantage of having the water off, to fit a service valve in the
line.

Pound to a pinch of poop its either the fibre washer or the tap connector is
not dead inline with the plastic inlet.

Overcome both by using a flexible (which has a big rubber washer). Don't
forget to remove the paint from the old pipe before you connect the pushfit
or whatever.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Roger Mills]

In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Arfa Daily
wrote:

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe,
using a right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many
years. It has just suddenly started dripping from the connector. I
pulled a further pinch up on it, but no help. As the ball valve
itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be some kind of corrosion in
the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits, I have just come
across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think) on one end
and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair with a
replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new
pump. If this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess
it will be a quick way of doing the repair, although I might take
advantage of having the water off, to fit a service valve in the
line.
Arfa

The pipe fitting will be 1/2" BSP (whose OD happens to be about 3/4" - so
often leads to confusion).[1]

The bit of the fitting which connects with the plastic end of the ball-valve
has a step which holds a fibre washer. The leak is almost certainly caused
by the failure of the fibre washer. Replacing that should fix it, without
any new fittings.

Incidentally, I wouldn't use a push-fit fitting on a pipe which has been
painted - you'll have a hell of a job cleaning the pipe up sufficiently for
the push-fit to seal properly. Also, if the pipe is more than a few years
old, it may well be 1/2" Imperial size rather than 15mm. There's only a very
slight difference (with compression fittings, 1/2" and 15mm are virtually
interchangeable) but getting a 1/2" pipe into a 15mm push-fit fitting can
present a bit of a challenge.

[1] With imperial pipe fittings - and copper pipe - the nominal size
represents the BORE, so the OD is somewhat larger. The thread on a 1/2" BSP
fitting is about 3/4", and the OD of a 1/2" copper pipe is pretty close to
15mm. Metric tube sizes, on the other hand, refer to the OD!
--
Cheers,
Roger
_______
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Pound to a pinch of poop its either the fibre washer or the tap
connector is not dead inline with the plastic inlet.

Yus

Overcome both by using a flexible (which has a big rubber washer).
Don't forget to remove the paint from the old pipe before you connect
the pushfit or whatever.

Assuming it is in line enough to screw together a smear of LSX sorts
things.

--
*Is there another word for synonym?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Arfa Daily]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
The Wanderer wrote:
I'm guessing you have a 'standard' angled tap connector on the end of the
pipework. Has a reduced diameter 'shouldered' end which just fits inside
the end of the valve pipework, but which should have a fibre washer over
the end of the stub of the tap connector, IYSWIM.

Could just be that fibre washer.

Think the problem with me was the tap connector wasn't exactly square to
the valve pipe. And being plastic you can't exert much clamping force to
the washer. A rubber O ring might have sorted it. When I redecorated, I
took the opportunity to add a service valve and flexible pipe Which has
slowed down the filling of the cistern by quite a bit - despite being a
full flow type.

--
*Stable Relationships Are For Horses.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

As it turned out, it was 1/2 BSP, standard tap connector, and it did have a
fibre washer, but there was so much corosion around the connector, that I
renewed it anyway, and took the opportunity to fit a service valve, as the
cistern is fed from the loft tank, so pain in the arse to drain down. Then
the probs started. Same as you Dave, it was really hard to get the connector
to go on square due to the slight slope on the cistern face, so I struggled
to pull it all up enough to get a good drip free seal. Eventually, I did
exactly as you had thought about doing, and nipped down Wickes and picked up
a packet of O rings for a quid. Put one on in front of the fibre washer and
screwed up again, and lo! - it all stayed dry as a bone. Great minds think
alike, as they say ... d;~}

Arfa

[Arfa Daily]

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Arfa Daily wrote:
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Arfa Daily wrote:
What size is the thread on a bog cistern ball valve (traditional
ball and arm type, plastic inlet) ? Is it 3/4 BSP same as a tap
fitting ? Need to fly into B n Q or somewhere quick at lunchtime to
pick a fitting up for emergency leak repair at aging mother's later
today (got called out at 11:30 pm last night ... :-\ )

Yes - same as a tap. I had problems getting a good seal with mine -
the pipework is copper. So used some Fernox LSX.

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe,
using a right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many
years. It has just suddenly started dripping from the connector. I
pulled a further pinch up on it, but no help. As the ball valve
itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be some kind of corrosion in
the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits, I have just come
across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think) on one end
and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair with a
replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new
pump. If this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess
it will be a quick way of doing the repair, although I might take
advantage of having the water off, to fit a service valve in the
line.

Pound to a pinch of poop its either the fibre washer or the tap connector
is not dead inline with the plastic inlet.

Overcome both by using a flexible (which has a big rubber washer). Don't
forget to remove the paint from the old pipe before you connect the
pushfit or whatever.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Yep - I wanted to fit a flexi, but even the shortest one would have been too
long for the space I had, so would have had to have been seriously 'curled
up'. I sorted it all in the end, and yes, the alignment of the valve and
connector was an issue - see my other post replying to Dave P elsewhere in
the thread.

Arfa

[Arfa Daily]

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion, Arfa Daily
wrote:

This is a side entry valve that is fed from a vertical copper pipe,
using a right-angled connector. It has all been painted for many
years. It has just suddenly started dripping from the connector. I
pulled a further pinch up on it, but no help. As the ball valve
itself is plastic, I guess it's got to be some kind of corrosion in
the connector. Casting around in my plumbing bits, I have just come
across a short flexi with a right-angled 3/4 BSP (I think) on one end
and a 15mm push fitting on the other. It came as one of a pair with a
replacement shower pump, but I did not used them, as the original
pipes were still ok, so I just screwed them straight onto the new
pump. If this little flexi fits the ball valve inlet ok, then I guess
it will be a quick way of doing the repair, although I might take
advantage of having the water off, to fit a service valve in the
line.
Arfa

The pipe fitting will be 1/2" BSP (whose OD happens to be about 3/4" - so
often leads to confusion).[1]

The bit of the fitting which connects with the plastic end of the
ball-valve has a step which holds a fibre washer. The leak is almost
certainly caused by the failure of the fibre washer. Replacing that should
fix it, without any new fittings.

Incidentally, I wouldn't use a push-fit fitting on a pipe which has been
painted - you'll have a hell of a job cleaning the pipe up sufficiently
for the push-fit to seal properly. Also, if the pipe is more than a few
years old, it may well be 1/2" Imperial size rather than 15mm. There's
only a very slight difference (with compression fittings, 1/2" and 15mm
are virtually interchangeable) but getting a 1/2" pipe into a 15mm
push-fit fitting can present a bit of a challenge.

[1] With imperial pipe fittings - and copper pipe - the nominal size
represents the BORE, so the OD is somewhat larger. The thread on a 1/2"
BSP fitting is about 3/4", and the OD of a 1/2" copper pipe is pretty
close to 15mm. Metric tube sizes, on the other hand, refer to the OD!
--
Cheers,
Roger
_______
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Yep. Got to the bottom of the sizes in the end, and got the job sorted.
Thanks all for valuable input, as always.

Arfa

[The Medway Handyman]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Pound to a pinch of poop its either the fibre washer or the tap
connector is not dead inline with the plastic inlet.

Yus

Overcome both by using a flexible (which has a big rubber washer).
Don't forget to remove the paint from the old pipe before you connect
the pushfit or whatever.

Assuming it is in line enough to screw together a smear of LSX sorts
things.

LS-X is the answer to a maidens prayer....

Wonderful stuff!

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Assuming it is in line enough to screw together a smear of LSX sorts
things.

LS-X is the answer to a maidens prayer....

Wonderful stuff!

Yup. It's one of those things I don't mind paying a high price for because
it works.

--
*Prepositions are not words to end sentences with *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.