UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 287
Default solar vacuum tubes overheat - steam engine

I've bought some solar vacuum tubes cheap (without instruction) (perhaps
navitron)

someone says if i put the hot water tank higher than them
then i wont need pumps.

But what happens when the hot water tank is at 99 degrees
at noon on a hot august day.

where does the excess heat go?

does it get hotter and hotter until the solder melts?

or can the vacuum tubes get super hot?

or can i harness the excess heat in a steam engine and get electricity?...

[g]
  #2   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 75
Default solar vacuum tubes overheat - steam engine


"george (dicegeorge)" wrote in message
...
I've bought some solar vacuum tubes cheap (without instruction) (perhaps
navitron)

someone says if i put the hot water tank higher than them
then i wont need pumps.

But what happens when the hot water tank is at 99 degrees
at noon on a hot august day.

where does the excess heat go?

does it get hotter and hotter until the solder melts?

or can the vacuum tubes get super hot?

or can i harness the excess heat in a steam engine and get electricity?...

[g]


You need to build a 'heat dump' into the system to allow for this.

I have a system with 30 Navitron tubes, but a reasonably small cylinder (due
to space issues) so have built in a heat dump mechanism to deal with this.
The cylinder coil used for the HW primary circuit goes via a towel radiator
in the bathroom before returning to the boiler (so in 'nornal' boiler
heating mode the water goes boiler, pump, zone valve, cylinder, towel rad,
boiler), so when heating water the bathroom rad gets hot too.

I use an 'excess cylinder heat' output from the solar controller to enegize
a relay, which:
* Disables the bolier 'call for heat' input, so the boiler *cannot* fire,
in-case a stat is at a stupidly high setting,
* Energizes the HW zone valve, which in turn energizes the CH pump.

This causes water to flow from the cylinder coil to the towel rad, then onto
the boiler (which is off) before returning to the cylinder. This has proved
to be very effective at preventing the system going beyond a sensible
limit - heat dump triggers at 80 degrees and system has never reached 85
degrees.

There is a data logger on my solar contoller, and when I have plotted the
data to a graph the effect can be seen clearly.

HTH, Alan.


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
solar tubes etc geoff UK diy 10 March 14th 09 02:18 AM
Vacuum tubes [email protected] Electronics Repair 9 October 12th 07 03:54 PM
Wanted: NON FUNCTIONAL VT-4-C and VT-25 vacuum tubes, other gear for B-17 setup Juan Jimenez Electronics Repair 7 September 19th 06 10:20 PM
Over 800 Vintage Vacuum Tubes [email protected] Electronics Repair 0 September 20th 05 03:24 PM
Steam Engine Valve Gear driven by Steam Pressure? [email protected] Metalworking 25 September 2nd 05 05:16 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:07 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"